Essentially what I'm asking is has anyone serviced one before using cheap off the shelf components like the Sony win DAS solution. I wish this information was accessible in the past as I've had trinitrons that could have been serviced but this time I have four LG flatrons/studio works with no lg specific guides online or on YouTube

Other then the trimpots that stick out of the back once the case is off, I wouldn't touch anything w/o a manual.

oldhighgerman wrote on 2024-08-08, 23:46:

Other then the trimpots that stick out of the back once the case is off, I wouldn't touch anything w/o a manual.

Pretty much. Took case cover off, didn't see G2 adjust pot, took pics and put cover back on. Sharpness doesn't need adjusting so left that alone

Forgot to mention had Spyder 4 elite for calibration of Trinitron. Have a cheap used xrite 1i display pro coming in the post. Just really impressed with Sony foresight in being able to bring the Trinitron back to near perfect geometry and black levels and colours using digital software

gmaverick2k wrote on 2024-08-09, 04:37:

oldhighgerman wrote on 2024-08-08, 23:46:

Other then the trimpots that stick out of the back once the case is off, I wouldn't touch anything w/o a manual.

Pretty much. Took case cover off, didn't see G2 adjust pot, took pics and put cover back on. Sharpness doesn't need adjusting so left that alone

I have an 15” SVGA IBM monitor that is really blurry. Are you saying this is fixable by opening the monitors case and adjust something? I was about to chuck it in the bin.

Blurriness or blooming is not always rectified by a simple adjustment. Sometimes a component is aging or failed. All depends.

I don't know if LG CRT monitors are / may be related to Samsung CRT monitors or not. But if they are, all I can tell you is that I've read in Samsung CRT SM's that they use a software called "SoftJIG". It's essentially the equivalent of what WinDAS is for Trinitrons, but I never used it... and don't think I have a copy either(??) (Will check on that.) I did do some digging into that topic a long time ago, though, since I have a Samsung SyncMaster 955DF that's a little too bright (too much G2), though not terrible like a 21" Trinitron. Was going to mess with it, but then figured I could use the brighter monitor for online gaming, as I already have another 19" CRT that has pretty much perfect colors and brightness which I use for "cinematic effects" gaming.

If there is no software to adjust the G2, you can try to trace back (either in the SM or on the actual monitor PCB) where / to what chip the G2 gives feedback about its voltage value and try to "fool" that chip / circuit with some resistor dividers. Back before the guides for Sony WinDAS became popular online, I remember reading on quite a few places where people used this trick to lower the G2 on their Sony Trinitron CRT.

zuldan wrote on 2024-08-09, 11:07:

I have an 15” SVGA IBM monitor that is really blurry. Are you saying this is fixable by opening the monitors case and adjust something? I was about to chuck it in the bin.

Possibly.
It might just need a G1 (Focus) adjustment through the pot on the flyback transformer (some monitors have two Focus knobs... but that's usually the larger, more "modern" CRTs.) Or it might need a recap (rather involved job).
Whatever the case, advisable not to just "chuck it in the bin", if possible. If you don't care to fix it, you can always put it up on your local Craigslist (or equivalent site) as a "free, you pick up". That's how I got most of my CRTs back in the day when people were getting rid of them left and right. And that's also how I've given away a number of items before. So long as you're not too far out "in the middle of nowhere", this method usually works for getting rid of stuff.

Hello, did you find out how can we adjust lg monitors? I want to unlock the hz

Old bump, but found this link on Reddit for LG CRT servicing software:

https://elektrotanya.com/softjig_lg.zip/download.html

Seems like the real deal.

Been messing around with softjig for lg 776fm to no avail. Used google ai to try to get Arduino Leonardo, Dupont cables to try to set RGB gains by injecting hex values to eeprom but no cigar. Says success in Arduino prompt but no physical difference in picture quality. Connected wires to pin 10, 12 and 15 used two 4.7kohms resistors
When running fm776b.exe, the program becomes unresponsive when trying to write to eeprom etc

Ordered a couple of parts to DIY my own interface using solderless breakout 2 x DB15 VGA female, 1 x DB25 male, 4 x 4.7kohms resistors, breadboard kit including dupont and 5v voltage module and texas instrument SN74LS06N all in for £41.72 which includes p&p. Wish me luck
https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/i … ow_that_i_have/ => proof of concept (image below of redditor successfully doing it)

Wiring up a solderless interface for the Softjig. Trying not to be a dum dum. Stuck on how to wire the DB25 to the texas instrument 74LS06N...

Wired up the interface, no cigar. When I power on the computer the amber light shows. This is still the case even if I dont swithc on the 5v power on the breadboard unit... any help?

Randomly took out pin 7 from block A and reinserted, got some display. Made sure parallel port is activated in bios. made a little progress but now have to switch 5V off breadboard then I can change some settings but get error when trying to write. Also don't get live luminance changes on the fly. When I switch on 5V for breadboard, again the window becomes unresponsive.

Got it working, had to reseat wires into connectors as i had overtightened them and also use a usb cable as power from pc then it allowed me to write EDID. Not as clear cut as WinDAS, still have redish hue boosting the bias as I want green as high as possible so still tinkiering with settings.

Screen has become brighter but when disconnecting check signal sign screen is bright, maybe I upped the ABL value high? The interface is flaky, may have moved a wore as its not being reponsive now (just after i reduced the bias so that the red hue is gone at 50% brightness and 100% contrast). When I plug into win 98 only able to select 640x480. Google AI searched a workaround, properties?change monitor, standard 1280x1024@75hz, then more reolutions came up, had to change geometry at every resolution. I think I overworte the EDID so 😒 This monitor was a second 776FM I got as a pair that was way dimmer than the other so I thought I'd try this softjig on it. Now I have to remember never to press 'recall' or I'll have to dial in all the geometry settings.
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Total for parts:
1 off 830 Point breadboard kit - £6.99 => avoid the power board with it even though it has capacitor etc, softjig doesn't like it. You could probably get this cheaper, i thought power board would be worth it
1 off YARCHONN DB25 Solderless Connector Breakout Board RS232 D-SUB 25 Pin Serial Adapter Terminal Block with Case (Male) - £5.99
2 off iYueMps VGA DB15 Female Breakout Connector Solderless Terminal Adapter - 2 x £6.90 = £13.80
1 off SN74LS06N ORIGINAL TEXAS INTEGRATED CIRCUITS DIP-14 74LS06 UK STOCK x2pcs - £7.95
1 off Jumper Wires kit,Multicolored Dupont Wire 3 x 40 pcs, Male to Female, Male to Male, Female to Female,Breadboard Jumper Wires Cables Kit for arduino - £4.28
1 off BOJACK Resistor Assortment Kit 1 Ohm - 1M Ohm 1/4W Carbon Film (25 Values 1000 Pcs) - £10.99
Total = £43.01
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Was it worth it? If you have a monitor that's not your main, then try it but careful as EDID info can be overwritten and as its on a breadboard, it'll be flaky.

A few things to mention, the manual just states change bias etc settings and exit. In command options you have to select 'start' then make changes then again under command 'exit'. When you select 'exit' under command, the monitor switches off then back on, with the click sound. Then you choose 'quit' to exit back to command prompt (if under dos). I think you shouldn't touch the 'EEPROM' option or write to edid. I was just messing around taking google AI's advice of trying to brute force hex code writes to edid to work around luminance not being able to be set (this was down to flaky wiring of my interface setup). If your interface works, you can see on the fly changes to adjustments.

Dialed in settings, workflow involved separate dos pc with separate monitor and db25 connected with softjig executable open. Interface with monitor connection and pc connected for real time changes. Dialled in geometries and brightness.
Also loaded the old edid from online and downloaded .inf file also from online search so correct supported resolutions and frequencies are shown