I pre-ordered and Analogue 3D. The N64 is my favorite games console. I'm really looking forward to playing my old games on a crisp high resolution display!
Looks like a nice piece of hardware, but it seems like they're pretty heavy on the advertising and tugging at CRT nostalgia considering that it isn't physically possible for the vast majority of modern displays to reproduce a CRT-like image. The closest you can get is with a high end LCD gaming monitor that has a well optimized backlight strobing feature (see BenQ monitors with DyAC\Blur Reduction, or Viewsonic's two "Blur Busters Approved" models), or on some level an OLED with black frame insertion... though most do not have BFI built in anymore so black frames have to be inserted by the source (ie, a PC), and strangely enough it seems like the Analogue3D makes no mention of providing BFI for OLED displays, despite all the CRT hype (also, BFI does not work as intended on most LCDs).
I am not a big N64 guy myself, but I can appreciate getting the best quality emulation of original hardware... so, I can see the draw of a system like this if that is your thing and you have the money for it. It just feels pretty disingenuous for them to focus so heavily on how their fancy display stuff will make it nearly INDISTINGUISHABLE* from a CRT, without mentioning that this will be heavily dependent on your display.
*Actual quote from the website:
Unlike its 2D predecessors, the N64 wasn't just about pixels. The original hardware's distinctive approach to rendering polygons […] Show full quote
Unlike its 2D predecessors, the N64 wasn't just about pixels. The original hardware's distinctive approach to rendering polygons and textures depends on the CRT far more critically than simpler 2D systems. Even game developers had to leverage the interplay between the hardware and a CRT to achieve harmony.
While a very few modern upscalers have transformed the 2D era of video games with pixel-perfect clarity, the N64 demands something far more radical: the unmistakable essence of a CRT.
Analogue3D brings true CRT reference quality to your HDTV in 4K. Experience the N64 with unmatched authenticity and zero lag. It's the N64, reborn.
Analogue3D's Original Display Modes are meticulously reproduced, virtually indistinguishable recreations of CRT displays. Capturing the warmth, depth, and texture in every frame. The soft glow of phosphor and vibrant colors unite with immersive scanlines and shadow masks. This isn't just upscaling — it's an unprecedented transformation.
Also, the marketing seems to imply that games will run internally at 4K resolution, but realistically you're going to be playing games at ~240p upscaled to whatever your display's native resolution is. I believe that modern PCs running an emulator can pretty easily render n64 games at much higher than native resolution.
I think they're trying to differentiate themselves from just running emulators by making claims of features that don't exist in emulators (perfect-CRT-like image? Sounds awesome!)... but these are display limitations, not software\hardware\source limitations.
Last edited by Ozzuneoj on 2024-11-24, 03:58. Edited 2 times in total.
I pre-ordered and Analogue 3D. The N64 is my favorite games console. I'm really looking forward to playing my old games on a crisp high resolution display!
That looks pretty cool! Any chance it might support dual analog controllers? I know the original N64 didn't have such a controller, but I have found using emulators that dual analog can drastically improve controls in some games.
(I suppose since it's using the original controller ports, it probably would not.)
That's always going to be a function of the controller, not the console. I agree with you though. I map the same controls to dual analogue sticks when playing FF7 on the PC and it's way more enjoyable that way.
Fixing broken traces. Not my prettiest work, but I suppose when soldering a wire barely 2mm long, I'll take what I can get.
286?
This is a lot of dremel and tinning + finishing touch with some solder mask. Boring as boring can get.
Lately I started using transparent nail polish. At least you see what's underneath.
When it's that short I prefer scratching some more and use a longer wire.
Pre bending the wire. Maybe I'll do a boring video about it.
To me this is good enough. Maybe not factory work but does the job saving time.
Last edited by Nexxen on 2024-11-26, 00:39. Edited 1 time in total.
Nexxenwrote on 2024-11-26, 00:36:286?
This is a lot of dremel and tinning + finishing touch with some solder mask. Boring as boring can get.
Lately I started usi […] Show full quote
Fixing broken traces. Not my prettiest work, but I suppose when soldering a wire barely 2mm long, I'll take what I can get.
286?
This is a lot of dremel and tinning + finishing touch with some solder mask. Boring as boring can get.
Lately I started using transparent nail polish. At least you see what's underneath.
Re-homing one "old" (DiskWizard) and building two "new" ones. ASUS A7V600 with AMD A-XP3000+ and the Intel D815EEA with a PIII-800EB. I'm putting a 3.2P4 in my 875(DiskWizard), hoping it works. Looks new, but untested. It has a 2.8 right now, but at this speed, it will be slower than my A-XP computers. This was supposed to be my "fastest" retro computer. I've been surprised by the performance of the AMD Barton cores I've been testing lately. HOT little buggers, but nothing an OP cooler can't fix.
Four days ago I opened the 1505S monitor so I can decrease the value of Screen/G2 potentiometer, but then the flyback start to making this clicking noise. Checking the flyback I've noticed that the most of the varnish/glue on top of the ferrite core was gone, so I've cleaned the core and apply a new varnish and the problem solved.
Four days ago I opened the 1505S monitor so I can decrease the value of Screen/G2 potentiometer, but then the flyback start to making this clicking noise. Checking the flyback I've noticed that the most of the varnish/glue on top of the ferrite core was gone, so I've cleaned the core and apply a new varnish and the problem solved.
Way back, late 90s, I was having some HV flashover near the output of a flyback, and I squirted it with automotive ignition sealer that I had around. Used the monitor for several months after... I don't remember what happened to it after that, think I just retired it in favor of a monitor that did 1024x786 whereas that one maxed to 800x600.
Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.
Four days ago I opened the 1505S monitor so I can decrease the value of Screen/G2 potentiometer, but then the flyback start to making this clicking noise. Checking the flyback I've noticed that the most of the varnish/glue on top of the ferrite core was gone, so I've cleaned the core and apply a new varnish and the problem solved.
Woa... I would love to see before and after pictures of this.
And did you follow some kind of tutorial online? What did you use for cleaner and for new varnish?
I have lots of CRTs and I have replaced some capacitors to keep them going, but flyback noises have always seemed like end-game stuff to me.
Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture beforehand. For removing the old gunk, I've used IPA and a glue remover spray. Then cover the whole thing with the same varnish I use for woodwork.
I discovered that a 5€ intel 1Gbit NIC I was gonna use with one win9x machine had suffered a lightning strike and the main chip is shorted... at least I have a low profile bracket and a nifty plastic case to put some other NIC into 🤣.
Maybe the chip is actually not expensive and I can buy one at some point and attempt to revive the card... But I need to see first if the isolation transformers are still intact.
Received a Sega 32X that I ordered from eBay today and tested it out on my Mega Drive. Of course, as I anticipated, it wasn't working. The listing was untested spares/repairs, so to be expected.
I cleaned the contacts first, which didn't help. So I decided to open it up and clean & reseat the ribbon cables. Each screw made the satisfying click sound of a device that's never been opened before, there was definitely a sigh of relief at this point!
After cleaning & reseating the ribbon cables, the 32X now works like a dream!
It's crazy how those ribbon cables manage to dislodge themselves over time, such a common problem.
