VOGONS


ATX I/O shield models for 3D printing

Topic actions

Reply 60 of 73, by des7uk

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie
kaputnik wrote on 2019-02-14, 11:44:
The second shield is customized for AT boards in ATX cases. Besides the premade cutout for the AT keyboard connector, there are […]
Show full quote

The second shield is customized for AT boards in ATX cases. Besides the premade cutout for the AT keyboard connector, there are cutout guides for two DB25 and two DB9 ports. There's also a guide for a PS/2 connector of the kind that's mounted in an expansion slot bracket. The connectors seems to have a somewhat standardized form factor. Nice to not have to waste an expansion card slot on that. Had to keep the guides quite narrow to avoid roughness on the front surface, but it's still not too hard to do the cutouts with an X-acto knife or similar.

Otherwise compared to the blank shield, I adjusted/improved the latching mechanism and upped the thickness from 1 to 2 mm to make the construction sturdier, since D-subs and PS/2 connector will be mounted directly on it.

The location of the PS/2 cutout might not be the most aesthetically pleasing. Wanted to keep it as far away from the mobo and anything it could collide with as possible. Tried putting it right above the AT connector first, but after finding an actual PS/2 connector in my stashes, I realized it would never fit there. Didn't want to remove a DB port cutout to make room for it either. Might however make an alternative version with only one DB25 cutout after doing some other stuff I got in mind, if there's interest 😀

The same printing suggestions applies here too, print the shield with the front side up, and let it slowly cool down to room temperature on the print bed before removing it, to minimize warping and thermal contraction. Used 0.15 mm layer thickness. Set infilling to solid. This model did however not need any scaling, dunno why.

Not gonna use this one myself, so I'm especially interested in feedback from actual users here 😀

Attached .stl file ready for slicing/printing, and the original Autodesk Inventor 2018 model for own modifications.

Edit: did a small cosmetic fix, moved the PS2 cutout into line with the upper row of D-sub ones. Updated the Inventor file and added an updated .stl. Left the old .stl since I haven't test printed the new one.

Edit2: Also uploaded a version with a bit higher and thus more flexible edges, that should work better with PLA, or if you generally have problems with edges breaking when installing. See this post.

Edit3: kuenzign added optional gameport and onboard PS/2 port cutout guides to the original design, clicky.

atio1.PNGatio2.PNG
atio3.jpgatio4.jpg

Hi, I wonder if you have the ATIO1 zip file it's the one I Thanks in advance
David

Reply 61 of 73, by kaputnik

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie
des7uk wrote on 2022-04-03, 11:09:

Hi, I wonder if you have the ATIO1 zip file it's the one I Thanks in advance
David

Sorry, but I really don't get what you mean.

Atio1.png shows the model in atio0.4.zip from the exterior side.

Reply 62 of 73, by des7uk

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie
kaputnik wrote on 2022-04-03, 14:21:
des7uk wrote on 2022-04-03, 11:09:

Hi, I wonder if you have the ATIO1 zip file it's the one I Thanks in advance
David

Sorry, but I really don't get what you mean.

Atio1.png shows the model in atio0.4.zip from the exterior side.

Sorry I need the files for the plate with the 5 pin din kb hole in it no other cut outs
Unless any guys can 3d print for me I'm looking fo 3
Best wishes to all
David

Reply 63 of 73, by kaputnik

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie
des7uk wrote on 2022-04-04, 09:22:
Sorry I need the files for the plate with the 5 pin din kb hole in it no other cut outs Unless any guys can 3d print for me I'm […]
Show full quote
kaputnik wrote on 2022-04-03, 14:21:
des7uk wrote on 2022-04-03, 11:09:

Hi, I wonder if you have the ATIO1 zip file it's the one I Thanks in advance
David

Sorry, but I really don't get what you mean.

Atio1.png shows the model in atio0.4.zip from the exterior side.

Sorry I need the files for the plate with the 5 pin din kb hole in it no other cut outs
Unless any guys can 3d print for me I'm looking fo 3
Best wishes to all
David

The only hole in the atio0.4.zip model is the keyboard connector. The rest are just cutting guides, not holes. They're not visible from the outside unless you open them up.

Reply 64 of 73, by appiah4

User metadata
Rank l33t++
Rank
l33t++
kaputnik wrote on 2022-04-04, 10:10:
des7uk wrote on 2022-04-04, 09:22:
Sorry I need the files for the plate with the 5 pin din kb hole in it no other cut outs Unless any guys can 3d print for me I'm […]
Show full quote
kaputnik wrote on 2022-04-03, 14:21:

Sorry, but I really don't get what you mean.

Atio1.png shows the model in atio0.4.zip from the exterior side.

Sorry I need the files for the plate with the 5 pin din kb hole in it no other cut outs
Unless any guys can 3d print for me I'm looking fo 3
Best wishes to all
David

The only hole in the atio0.4.zip model is the keyboard connector. The rest are just cutting guides, not holes. They're not visible from the outside unless you open them up.

And they are incredibly handy to have if I may add 😁

My only issue with these is, most printers I have around tend to print them very, very stiff. So stiff in fact that the edges don't flex much and it is impossible to fit onto cheaper cases, the force required simply bends the case metal out of shape before the thing can actually snap in. Maybe if they were a bit thinner? Or maybe I just have access to terrible printers/filament?

Reply 65 of 73, by Yoghoo

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member
appiah4 wrote on 2022-04-04, 10:37:

My only issue with these is, most printers I have around tend to print them very, very stiff. So stiff in fact that the edges don't flex much and it is impossible to fit onto cheaper cases, the force required simply bends the case metal out of shape before the thing can actually snap in. Maybe if they were a bit thinner? Or maybe I just have access to terrible printers/filament?

Maybe you need to print them a little smaller (99% or so)? Sometimes I have to do that as well for other models to get the right size for my project.

Reply 66 of 73, by des7uk

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

Can anyone offer this plate I need two urgently on a build?

Reply 67 of 73, by Sphere478

User metadata
Rank l33t++
Rank
l33t++

Gotek in the I/O shield? With AT motherboard Need some 3D modeling help.

Need some help with this idea any one able to help with the 3d?

Sphere's PCB projects.
-
Sphere’s socket 5/7 cpu collection.
-
SUCCESSFUL K6-2+ to K6-3+ Full Cache Enable Mod
-
Tyan S1564S to S1564D single to dual processor conversion (also s1563 and s1562)

Reply 68 of 73, by doogie

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member

Sorry for the thread necro, but I wanted to say these models worked great for me. Bambu X1 Carbon, Orcaslicer 1.6.1. .4mm nozzle at a .2mm layer height. Stock “strength” profile and Polymaker ASA. Lined up perfectly for my GA-586ATX going into a modern Fractal Pop Air case.

Reply 69 of 73, by Delphius

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member

Gave this a try using jclpcb.com as my printing service. It was my first time sending a model in printing so I had no experience with this at all, so I had some difficulties choosing what material and printing style would be the best. I took a chance and placed an order using PA12-HP Nylon. So far I am very pleased with the results. The material was very cleanly printed, strong, and had pretty good flexibility. Fitting it into the case is quite snug, especially in my case the shield hole has a couple of very thin notches in one side of it that were sharp and pressed into it. You will see where these notches pressed in and scratches the edge of the printed IO plate. Overall I would say it handled this stress well. The IO plate fit very snug, but I was also able to remove it without too much force or breaking anything. I would say the material worked very well.

Cost of the print was around $9 + shipping costs. Overall I am very happy with how it turned out, and would do it again if needed for another system.

The attachment chrome_fdgnFQWnQp.png is no longer available

The scuffs on the top are from inserting into this case

The attachment signal-2023-07-04-175007_002.jpeg is no longer available
The attachment signal-2023-07-04-175007_003.jpeg is no longer available
The attachment signal-2023-07-04-175007_004.jpeg is no longer available
The attachment signal-2023-07-04-175007_005.jpeg is no longer available

I hope this helps if you are thinking about getting one of these printed from a service

Reply 70 of 73, by Sphere478

User metadata
Rank l33t++
Rank
l33t++

Oh very nice! How’s the durability?

I still think it would be awesome if someone made a version of that that allowed installation of a slim dvd drive and a gotek so AT boards could be used in modern cases without drive bays

Sphere's PCB projects.
-
Sphere’s socket 5/7 cpu collection.
-
SUCCESSFUL K6-2+ to K6-3+ Full Cache Enable Mod
-
Tyan S1564S to S1564D single to dual processor conversion (also s1563 and s1562)

Reply 71 of 73, by appiah4

User metadata
Rank l33t++
Rank
l33t++

I've had this printed twice and never once managed to get it instealled. It's always a bit too big, doesn't snap in place. Kind of like the printer the service used oversized it, by 1-2% maybe..

Reply 72 of 73, by Delphius

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member
Sphere478 wrote on 2023-07-05, 05:32:

Oh very nice! How’s the durability?

I still think it would be awesome if someone made a version of that that allowed installation of a slim dvd drive and a gotek so AT boards could be used in modern cases without drive bays

Durability seems very good. I was actually quite pleased with the PA12-HP Nylon, it seems to have some good flexibility that makes the thinner parts very bendy. I never felt like I had to be extra careful when using this in the case, even though it took a little extra push to get it to snap in to my case.

I also printed some gotek floppy LCD screen holders that were quite thin and they almost a bendy like a rubber. Rigid enough to work well for the job, but has sort of floppy feeling as opposed to brittle.

Reply 73 of 73, by Delphius

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member
appiah4 wrote on 2023-07-05, 06:14:

I've had this printed twice and never once managed to get it instealled. It's always a bit too big, doesn't snap in place. Kind of like the printer the service used oversized it, by 1-2% maybe..

This was what I was most concerned about when I was figuring out what type of printing method to use. It seems ABS plastic needs some compensation for thermal expansion, so I wasn't sure how the PA12-HP Nylon would work with this model. I went with the non PLA adjusted model because I was afraid it would be a little too thick.

Overall I think it could be a slightly better fit if it was just slightly smaller when using the PA12-HP Nylon, but I feel pretty confident that it will work in most situations as is. I only had to push with a little extra force on the last corner of insertion, and once I did it one time it was even easier to do the next time. I think it was more challenging because this case has the two slight indents that were working against me in the alignment.