boby wrote on 2024-01-13, 22:13:

weedeewee wrote on 2024-01-13, 21:06:

Unfortunately most lead free solder has a higher melting temp. […]
Show full quote

boby wrote on 2024-01-13, 20:50:

Yes yes, my bad, I was sure it is the one with flux inside. At end there is a smoke 🙂

Unfortunately most lead free solder has a higher melting temp.

Also, counting from the left, 2, 5 & 11 ,to me, seem better suited.
Also when soldering, place tip of iron on pad & leg of component to solder, start counting, 1 second, 2 3 4 5, add solder to the joint, 6 7 8 9 10, remove iron.

and
get better solder. That stuff you're using now, unmarked, the size isn't even indicated... It's a good way to get frustrated.

So those with angled tip? 2, 5 & 11

yeah, they're kinda my favorites, they also have a little bit more thermal mass at the tip in comparison to the ones you were using on the right.
Those thin ones are no good with this kind of iron, as has been mentioned before in this thread. no thermal mass, bad reaction to temperature drops. Just frustrating to work with.

Ok, so my kb and mouse are actually working, yesterday the clock pin wasn't soldered properly (like rest of the pins).

So the problem was indeed that inductor I have removed.

What is still left is to make those soldering joints better.

Someone to recommend leaded soldering wire? Not sure on amazon, if that is what I am looking for. They are mostly lead free ones.

Is the jump wire too thick?

This thread is like a burning car wreck, you just cannot not look and catch a glimpse of the charred bodies.

That wire will do, it's only when it's too thin that it becomes an issue. Though most people would've used sth like a leg cutoff from some through hole component instead - stripped-wire strands could fray and cause unwanted connections, and are just needlessly harder to work with in general.

typical Chinese garbage with no name or description. You cant even be sure its a real solder. Its a piece of garbage sold on Amazon, belongs in the bin.
Problem with cheap Chinese products is a lot of cargo cult - manufacturing something that looks like the real thing, but isnt. Good video from Louis Rossmann:
"The Downfall of Amazon: Dangerous Products, Fake Reviews & Vanishing Brands" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y83BS_mK9GE
"The Downfall of Amazon, pt.2: Top Ranking Electrical Fuses Show Dangerous Results" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B90_SNNbcoU

The goal is not to make and sell lower quality cheap product, the goal is to SCAM you into buying something because you think it looks like a real product you need.
"NEWACALOX" isnt a real brand, its a random jumble of letters typical for Amazon drop shippers.

boby wrote on 2024-01-13, 20:53:

What about my solder tips. I use 2 on the very right:

even after I told you to use biggest tip you have? 😒 :]

boby wrote on 2024-01-13, 22:13:

So those with angled tip? 2, 5 & 11

Not angled, those with THICK tips. More metal means more thermal mass.
2 is chisel (like flathead screwdriver), thick all the way to the end.
5 and 11 are Hoof tips for drag soldering, their advantage is a hole for storing molten solder.
3 and 10 knife tips also have a good amount of thermal mass.
Blue color of 7 and 8 tells me someone had an oopsie setting temperature 😀

boby wrote on 2024-01-14, 09:23:

Ok, so my kb and mouse are actually working, yesterday the clock pin wasn't soldered properly (like rest of the pins).
So the problem was indeed that inductor I have removed.

👍

boby wrote on 2024-01-14, 09:23:

What is still left is to make those soldering joints better. Someone to recommend leaded soldering wire? Not sure on amazon, if that is what I am looking for. They are mostly lead free ones.

Not with this soldering Iron 😀 Just buy this https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini … soldering-iron/ Its the cheapest decent soldering iron, requires usb 3.0 supply capable of 20V like https://pine64.com/product/pinepower-65w-gan- … national-plugs/ or old 19V laptop power supply. TS100 is more or less same thing, but at twice the price https://www.ifixit.com/products/ts100-soldering-iron
Buy solder from a place that sells to professionals, not Amazon/ebay/aliexpress. There are local places all over the world. For example in Poland https://www.piekarz.pl/wyposazenie-warsztatowe/?q=cyna. US https://ipadrehab.store/products/leaded-63-37 … ster-pocket-pak

rasz_pl wrote on 2024-01-14, 10:19:

https://www.vogons.org/thumbs/52335_962b518150ad78e78ee389420d32e4c0/IMG20240113215151.jpg […]
Show full quote

typical Chinese garbage with no name or description. You cant even be sure its a real solder. Its a piece of garbage sold on Amazon, belongs in the bin.
Problem with cheap Chinese products is a lot of cargo cult - manufacturing something that looks like the real thing, but isnt. Good video from Louis Rossmann:
"The Downfall of Amazon: Dangerous Products, Fake Reviews & Vanishing Brands" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y83BS_mK9GE
"The Downfall of Amazon, pt.2: Top Ranking Electrical Fuses Show Dangerous Results" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B90_SNNbcoU

The goal is not to make and sell lower quality cheap product, the goal is to SCAM you into buying something because you think it looks like a real product you need.
"NEWACALOX" isnt a real brand, its a random jumble of letters typical for Amazon drop shippers.

boby wrote on 2024-01-13, 20:53:

What about my solder tips. I use 2 on the very right:

even after I told you to use biggest tip you have? 😒 :]

boby wrote on 2024-01-13, 22:13:

So those with angled tip? 2, 5 & 11

Not angled, those with THICK tips. More metal means more thermal mass.
2 is chisel (like flathead screwdriver), thick all the way to the end.
5 and 11 are Hoof tips for drag soldering, their advantage is a hole for storing molten solder.
3 and 10 knife tips also have a good amount of thermal mass.
Blue color of 7 and 8 tells me someone had an oopsie setting temperature 😀

boby wrote on 2024-01-14, 09:23:

Ok, so my kb and mouse are actually working, yesterday the clock pin wasn't soldered properly (like rest of the pins).
So the problem was indeed that inductor I have removed.

👍

boby wrote on 2024-01-14, 09:23:

What is still left is to make those soldering joints better. Someone to recommend leaded soldering wire? Not sure on amazon, if that is what I am looking for. They are mostly lead free ones.

Not with this soldering Iron 😀 Just buy this https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini … soldering-iron/ Its the cheapest decent soldering iron, requires usb 3.0 supply capable of 20V like https://pine64.com/product/pinepower-65w-gan- … national-plugs/ or old 19V laptop power supply. TS100 is more or less same thing, but at twice the price https://www.ifixit.com/products/ts100-soldering-iron
Buy solder from a place that sells to professionals, not Amazon/ebay/aliexpress. There are local places all over the world. For example in Poland https://www.piekarz.pl/wyposazenie-warsztatowe/?q=cyna. US https://ipadrehab.store/products/leaded-63-37 … ster-pocket-pak

Well that was very descriptive. 🙂

Tips that turn to be blue were not exposed to very high temp. If I remeber correct it was about 350 (which I use with other tips too). This also happen after only one usage. So I think it is more to the quality of the tip. ☹️

Regarding the soldering iron you recommended. I have my laptop charger - USB C, 65W, 20V. Will that work with it? Can it destroy my charger?

For the soldering wire, I will go to some of the local shops. What marks on it I should look for?

boby wrote on 2024-01-15, 00:00:

Regarding the soldering iron you recommended. I have my laptop charger - USB C, 65W, 20V. Will that work with it? Can it destroy my charger?

As long as its capable of delivering 3A. Alternative as I mentioned is old style 19V laptop supplies, usually you can score one free if you ask around, people upgrade laptops and old supply goes to live at the bottom of a drawer 😀

boby wrote on 2024-01-15, 00:00:

For the soldering wire, I will go to some of the local shops. What marks on it I should look for?

- Place. Buy from a place supplying professionals. Either the big boys tme https://www.tme.eu/pl/katalog/druty-lutownicz … ueryPhrase=cyna mouser https://eu.mouser.com/c/tools-supplies/solder … loy=Sn60%2FPb40 farnell https://uk.farnell.com/c/tools-production-sup … ies/solder-wire newark/element14/avnet arrow digikey etc, or from smaller players redistributing from the big boys like already mentioned Polish Piekarz https://www.piekarz.pl/wyposazenie-warsztatowe/?q=cyna or this small Italian store https://www.soundland.it/en/soldering-items/2 … 1514370591.html
- Brand. Buy product from a real company manufacturing real things. Places supplying professionals do the step of filtering out fake garbage for you. Some brands are counterfeited a lot (Amtech/Kester/Kapton) so its important to buy those only from reputable sources.
- you want good old Sn60Pb40. You dont need a ton of solder, $2 10g tube will be more than enough https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/lc60-1.00_f/dru … olowiowe/cynel/
- you also want flux. Either in liquid no-clean form https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/rf800_015/topni … ty/art-agt-042/ or a paste https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/pasta-l-20/topn … ty/art-agt-036/
- finally you will need some IPA (>99% isopropyl alcohol) for cleaning https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/ipa-50/preparat … ty/art-agt-001/

@rasz_pl on Tom's Hardware I found an article about Pinecil soldering iron. It has a good review but among other things, it says:

For 90% of the projects Pinecil will be used for, it will sail through with no issue, but where it could struggle are boards that soak heat via large ground plains or multi-layer boards with huge amounts of copper. PC motherboards are notorious for soaking every last degree of heat from a soldering iron, trust us, we’ve tried to desolder a capacitor from an early 2000s Asus motherboard and it required a heat gun and a soldering iron. We tested the power of Pinecil V2 by trying to desolder the alignment tabs of a USB 2.0 port on a dead Raspberry Pi 3. Our normal soldering temperature of 350 degrees Celsius didn’t work, even flowing fresh lead solder did nothing. We bumped the temperature up to 400 degrees Celsius and repeated the steps. It worked! Taking the iron to 450 degrees Celsius produced better results, with less time stressing the components, reducing the risk of damaging the PCB.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/pinecil- … ot%20the%20norm.

boby wrote on 2024-01-15, 09:38:

@rasz_pl on Tom's Hardware I found an article about Pinecil soldering iron. It has a good review but among other things, it says:

For 90% of the projects Pinecil will be used for, it will sail through with no issue, but where it could struggle are boards that soak heat via large ground plains or multi-layer boards with huge amounts of copper. PC motherboards are notorious for soaking every last degree of heat from a soldering iron, trust us, we’ve tried to desolder a capacitor from an early 2000s Asus motherboard and it required a heat gun and a soldering iron. We tested the power of Pinecil V2 by trying to desolder the alignment tabs of a USB 2.0 port on a dead Raspberry Pi 3. Our normal soldering temperature of 350 degrees Celsius didn’t work, even flowing fresh lead solder did nothing. We bumped the temperature up to 400 degrees Celsius and repeated the steps. It worked! Taking the iron to 450 degrees Celsius produced better results, with less time stressing the components, reducing the risk of damaging the PCB.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/pinecil- … ot%20the%20norm.

Only something like $500 130W JBC CDB https://www.jbctools.com/cdb-soldering-statio … oduct-1605.html will be able to desolder components from modern multilayer pcb without preheating. "EEVblog #1064 - Soldering Irons OLD vs NEW" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scvS2yeUH00
You currently have a Chinese imitation of a soldering iron, a 2-in-1 "as seen on tv" toy. Pinecil is in entirely different universe and is stupid cheap.
If you think you will be soldering more in the future you can go with something heavy duty like I proposed at the start. There are cheap Chinese C245 controllers with tons of power, but once again its a sea of traps and you need to know what you are doing, otherwise you will just waste money and end up frustrated. Example
"Can the Aixun T3A really beat a JBC station?" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGK7s-9tXs4
On paper Aixun looks great. Real Shenzhen company with real factory, ISO9001, industrial customers in China. 200W of power for $100. But its never that easy 😀 there are always some quirks. Maybe the new AiXun T320 are better https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ug7rLdOWto

Well said. I will definitely buy that one you suggested since it is just $25. Need to see if it is available in Austria somewhere so I don't pay shipping $12.
However I am done with this motherboard, happy that it is working but not happy at all with the look of it. But can't spend more time on it. I also think that my problem with solder sticking to the soldering iron is partially due to the fact that the board was burned. There was no metal contact on the board so the solder have only connector pins to bind to.

Anyhow I would like to thank you all for all the time you spend with me and your effort. I got ton of great advices and will try to follow them in the future.