that thing is really neat, it seems it supports SIPP modules, sadly i don't know anything of the 286 era

You can insert 30pin simm sockets in the sipp sockets and it will work
As for the model I have no idea but generally 286 boards don't have many jumpers so even if a couple are not documented you won't miss anything important

Yeah, I will have to hunt for some SIMM sockets. Mouser doesn't have them anymore. RS seems to, but I haven't ordered from them yet. But the 1MiB is already a good start.

root42 wrote:

Yeah, I will have to hunt for some SIMM sockets. Mouser doesn't have them anymore. RS seems to, but I haven't ordered from them yet. But the 1MiB is already a good start.

If it's easier to find 30pin simm modules than sockets, you can solder a row of pins on to a simm module. 😉

GigAHerZ wrote:

root42 wrote:

Yeah, I will have to hunt for some SIMM sockets. Mouser doesn't have them anymore. RS seems to, but I haven't ordered from them yet. But the 1MiB is already a good start.

If it's easier to find 30pin simm modules than sockets, you can solder a row of pins on to a simm module. 😉

I thought about that. I have a bunch of modules lying around. Maybe I'll try that.

weldum wrote:

that thing is really neat, it seems it supports SIPP modules, sadly i don't know anything of the 286 era

Nope, it's definitely not NEAT.

OK 😉 that joke was a bit niche...

HanJammer wrote:

weldum wrote:

that thing is really neat, it seems it supports SIPP modules, sadly i don't know anything of the 286 era

Nope, it's definitely not NEAT.

OK 😉 this joke was a bit niche...

That joke was OA.K.

One question. Are those sockets for zip and not simm?

Definitely SIPP. ZIPP has two rows adjacent to and offset from each other.

Ahhh... Was not aware that there are both SIPP and ZIPP.

Yup. Very different.

root42 wrote:

HanJammer wrote:

weldum wrote:

that thing is really neat, it seems it supports SIPP modules, sadly i don't know anything of the 286 era

Nope, it's definitely not NEAT.

OK 😉 this joke was a bit niche...

That joke was OA.K.

AM.I aware of that? Yes, but it was on the VIRGE of being funny (in fact it was A.BIT dry) so I don't expect any AWARD for it.

Found it finally on stason:

https://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/U/U … -HAM-12-TI.html

holy crap that's my motherboard! (not mine exactly but it's identical to mine)

What a strange coincidence, I just located the document on stason.org yesterday. I just ordered some simm sockets from ebay yesterday, here's the link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Socket-Single-x-30pi … YJKhs:rk:1:pf:0

I will have extra, might consider selling to anyone who needs them.

I got 4 MB in SIMM memory from here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Socket-Single-x-30pi … YJKhs:rk:1:pf:0

I also know the pinout of the external battery connector if you need it.
It's a pretty nice board IMHO, even has very advanced built in diagnostics. The only problem is that it originally came with a matching floppy/IDE controller (that I may or may not have accidentally toasted) and it doesn't play nice with a lot of other controllers. I finally found one that it likes, though. It's the Acculogic sIDE-3/PLUS. The trick is to use its onboard bios instead of the mainboard bios to setup the hard drive. The onboard BIOS hard drive selector only works with the original card as far as I can tell.

Yes, please do document the battery pinout. I tried tracing the pins, but it goes through so kany diodes... my battery is still at 1.2V, and LOOKS good, but why risk a leakage, when I can safely use an external battery...

Not sure if I want to install SIMM sockets. The 1MiB it has is good enough for DOS games and for Windows 3.1 I now have the 386DX.

Here's a picture. It unfourtunately had the battery leak all over the board, and ruined the AT keyboard connector and I had to replace it. I scrubbed it down, but some corrosion remains on the ground pads.

root42 wrote:

Yes, please do document the battery pinout. I tried tracing the pins, but it goes through so kany diodes... my battery is still at 1.2V, and LOOKS good, but why risk a leakage, when I can safely use an external battery...

Test for continuity between any ground pad on the motherboard and pins of the connector and you will know the pinout.

Generally it should be like this:

(+5V) (NC) (GND) (GND)

Where +5V is usually pin 1, NC is not connected and rest are ground pins. Sometimes NC is keyed (no pin and connector has no hole) so you can't reverse the polarity by accident.

dkarguth wrote:

Here's a picture. It unfourtunately had the battery leak all over the board, and ruined the AT keyboard connector and I had to replace it. I scrubbed it down, but some corrosion remains on the ground pads.

Oh the humanity! My book looks like it almost came out of the box!

Rumour has it that it supports up to 25MHz CPUs. Not sure about that though...

Traced the pinout, thanks to HanJammer: