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Reply 20 of 59, by retardware

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gdjacobs wrote:

If you want a fully engineered and qualified product or something with a wider range of shielding frequency, it's probably worth looking into a commercial coating.

To me it seems the purpose of this project is more like making replacements for lost I/O shields for individual retro boards.
So the budget for EMI things is limited, we need cheap solutions.

Maybe it would be sufficient to take a thin metal sheet from a butchered LCD and cut+bend it into shape, then mark the cutouts of the printed plastic shield on the sheet and finally cut these out of the sheet to make a halfway working EMI shield?

By the way, do there exist 3d printing filaments that have conductive/shielding properties? Maybe by including mix of graphite and fine-ground metal?

Reply 21 of 59, by kaputnik

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retardware wrote:
To me it seems the purpose of this project is more like making replacements for lost I/O shields for individual retro boards. So […]
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gdjacobs wrote:

If you want a fully engineered and qualified product or something with a wider range of shielding frequency, it's probably worth looking into a commercial coating.

To me it seems the purpose of this project is more like making replacements for lost I/O shields for individual retro boards.
So the budget for EMI things is limited, we need cheap solutions.

Maybe it would be sufficient to take a thin metal sheet from a butchered LCD and cut+bend it into shape, then mark the cutouts of the printed plastic shield on the sheet and finally cut these out of the sheet to make a halfway working EMI shield?

By the way, do there exist 3d printing filaments that have conductive/shielding properties? Maybe by including mix of graphite and fine-ground metal?

Yep, there is conductive filament. It is however expensive, and it suffers from the same potential problem as graphite paint, it's kind of resistive. 0.6 ohm/cm^3 is a number I remember from the specs of some kind of conductive filament.

Making your own conductive filament would require expensive special machinery. The thickness tolerances are small, say ±0.05-0.1 mm or so, at least simpler 3d printers controls the amount of material it extrudes exclusively by filament feeding speed. Probably there's no cheap solution to this, if there was, it would be commonplace already. Would be great to be able to recycle failed prints, or make your own filament from cheap raw materials like PET bottles etc.

Reply 22 of 59, by gdjacobs

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A 12 oz spray bomb of Ni doped paint covers about 10-12 sq ft (theoretically) at a cost of about 4 CAD per sq ft, so it's not really all that much for a small item like an I/O shield. It gives anywhere between a 35 to 60 db cut in EMI power up to 10 ghz.
https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/emi-and- … riginal-series/

I'm looking at using it for shielding point to point packet radios.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 24 of 59, by Thermalwrong

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I've been trying to use this to replace a weird Daewoo motherboard's ATX backplate (CB644M-EX, a 440EX chipset Micro ATX board). I've only got PLA filament which I think is less flexible and more brittle than ABS or PETG filaments, however re-reading your post about your blank backplate, I see you rescaled it to account for the thermal expansion of ABS, so it's no wonder I had trouble getting this to fit haha. I designed up one to fit my motherboard based on your scaled up version, printed it out and it wouldn't fit my case at all (at least now I know why...). I ended up snapping off two of the clip sides, so that just fell out of the case after that 😁

I made up the design for the backplate in fusion 360 like so:

Daewoo-Fusion360.png
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The picture as a template thing sort of works but I think I took the picture a bit too close so it was slightly distorted and ended up 1mm off to the side

I re-designed it a bit by shaving a bit off the edges and re-doing the clip shape to work with my PLA. The clip parts extend outwards a bit higher and are thinner so they're more able to flex. I've also made the clip ridges a bit smaller, which seems to work nicely.

Daewoo-ATX-BP (2).jpeg
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It took 3 tries to get it to fit, which seems to be a theme with my design stuff - I go through quite a lot of filament right now 😀

Daewoo-ATX-BP (1).jpg
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Now it fits nicely in the case, thanks very much!

Daewoo-ATX-BP (1).jpeg
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I've attached the blank and the Daewoo .stl files & f3d files. They're optimised for printing in PLA at 0.2mm layer height, I've cut the thickness of the backplate down to 0.8mm to cut down on print time, it takes somewhere around 50 minutes right now.

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Reply 25 of 59, by kaputnik

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@Thermalwrong, that looks great 😀 Took the liberty to link your post from my blank shield post, hope you don't mind?

Yep, PLA is less flexible, and way more brittle. It should however be less affected by thermal expansion, I believe its coefficient is far lower, and it prints at lower temperatures no matter what. Would also have tried a longer "spring" to lessen tension/deformation when attaching the shield if printing with PLA 😀

Well, my models aren't scaled. They're 159.2x44.9mm in the latching recesses, made them 0.2 mm larger than the 159x44.7mm aperture they're supposed to fit in, wanted some tension to keep them securely in place once they're mounted. Did some scaling in the slicer when printing the 1mm thick version though. The 2mm version worked as is for me, without any scaling.

Maybe it's just a question about printer/material differences, variations of aperture size between cases, etc? Those spring steel shields are extremely flexible, the aperture size accuracy might not be all that important.

Tried opening your .f3d models, apparently Inventor can't handle the format. Out of curiosity, did it work the other way around with the .ipt models?

Reply 26 of 59, by tayyare

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I recevied mine today. If it is ok sizewise, I'm probably migrating my 486 setup to a modernish ATX black box. Already have the ATX to AT PSU adapter, jut need to solve the power switch problem. Thanks a lot! 🤣

WhatsApp Image 2019-02-20 at 18.02.29.jpeg
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GA-6VTXE PIII 1.4+512MB
Geforce4 Ti 4200 64MB
Diamond Monster 3D 12MB SLI
SB AWE64 PNP+32MB
120GB IDE Samsung/80GB IDE Seagate/146GB SCSI Compaq/73GB SCSI IBM
Adaptec AHA29160
3com 3C905B-TX
Gotek+CF Reader
MSDOS 6.22+Win 3.11/95 OSR2.1/98SE/ME/2000

Reply 27 of 59, by kaputnik

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tayyare wrote:

I recevied mine today. If it is ok sizewise, I'm probably migrating my 486 setup to a modernish ATX black box. Already have the ATX to AT PSU adapter, jut need to solve the power switch problem. Thanks a lot! 🤣

WhatsApp Image 2019-02-20 at 18.02.29.jpeg

Holding my thumbs it'll fit, it's so nice seeing people actually using this 😀

Whoever printed that for you should probably look into getting the first layer settings right by the way, he really needs to tighten up the distance between nozzle and print bed 😀

Reply 28 of 59, by tayyare

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Actually it is from a friend and for free, so I'm not complaining. Besides, the outside face is much better looking 🤣

Again, thanks a lot for the effort and of course for the idea!

PS: It is a perfect fit! Yay! 🤣

GA-6VTXE PIII 1.4+512MB
Geforce4 Ti 4200 64MB
Diamond Monster 3D 12MB SLI
SB AWE64 PNP+32MB
120GB IDE Samsung/80GB IDE Seagate/146GB SCSI Compaq/73GB SCSI IBM
Adaptec AHA29160
3com 3C905B-TX
Gotek+CF Reader
MSDOS 6.22+Win 3.11/95 OSR2.1/98SE/ME/2000

Reply 29 of 59, by Windows9566

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Thermalwrong wrote:
I've been trying to use this to replace a weird Daewoo motherboard's ATX backplate (CB644M-EX, a 440EX chipset Micro ATX board). […]
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I've been trying to use this to replace a weird Daewoo motherboard's ATX backplate (CB644M-EX, a 440EX chipset Micro ATX board). I've only got PLA filament which I think is less flexible and more brittle than ABS or PETG filaments, however re-reading your post about your blank backplate, I see you rescaled it to account for the thermal expansion of ABS, so it's no wonder I had trouble getting this to fit haha. I designed up one to fit my motherboard based on your scaled up version, printed it out and it wouldn't fit my case at all (at least now I know why...). I ended up snapping off two of the clip sides, so that just fell out of the case after that 😁

I made up the design for the backplate in fusion 360 like so:

Daewoo-Fusion360.png

The picture as a template thing sort of works but I think I took the picture a bit too close so it was slightly distorted and ended up 1mm off to the side

I re-designed it a bit by shaving a bit off the edges and re-doing the clip shape to work with my PLA. The clip parts extend outwards a bit higher and are thinner so they're more able to flex. I've also made the clip ridges a bit smaller, which seems to work nicely.

Daewoo-ATX-BP (2).jpeg

It took 3 tries to get it to fit, which seems to be a theme with my design stuff - I go through quite a lot of filament right now 😀

Daewoo-ATX-BP (1).jpg

Now it fits nicely in the case, thanks very much!

Daewoo-ATX-BP (1).jpeg

I've attached the blank and the Daewoo .stl files & f3d files. They're optimised for printing in PLA at 0.2mm layer height, I've cut the thickness of the backplate down to 0.8mm to cut down on print time, it takes somewhere around 50 minutes right now.

that looks like the Intel Advanced/ML, Performance/AU, ASUS P/I XP55T2P4, Tyan Titan Turbo, etc. IO shield but with a USB port instead of another COM port

Reply 30 of 59, by appiah4

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I ought to be getting mine pretty soon, I'll probably end up using it for installing one of my 486 AT motherboards into a modern and clean ATX horizontal desktop case (that I hope to find for cheap) as well 😀 I'll probably use an AT PSU for this, so I will also need to make some kind of contraption On/Off and Turbo switch on one of the expansion part covers or something.

Retronautics: A digital gallery of my retro computers, hardware and projects.

Reply 31 of 59, by FFXIhealer

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I don't know anybody with a 3D printer, otherwise this could have been useful last year. I ended up finding two ATX standard IO shields like the 3rd one you showed with the audio ports... then used white box tape and clear masking tape to cover up the un-used ports on their respective systems. It's so nice to have the cases closed up properly for airflow.

292dps.png
3smzsb.png
0fvil8.png
lhbar1.png

Reply 32 of 59, by retardware

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Just found out which single shield layout probably will "sell" best:

with just one DIN connector, nothing else...
...just for putting an AT mobo into an ATX case!

Maybe there might be an additional variation with some holes for DB9 (COMx), DB25 (COM/LPT), mini-DIN (PS/2mouse), for which on many later mobos there are onboard connectors and slot shields with the cables attached?

Could really need one!
Too sad due to lack of knowledge in 3D printing I cannot help much except expressing my willingness to pay an acceptable price... what would it approximately cost to print such a thing?

Reply 33 of 59, by kaputnik

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retardware wrote:
Just found out which single shield layout probably will "sell" best: […]
Show full quote

Just found out which single shield layout probably will "sell" best:

with just one DIN connector, nothing else...
...just for putting an AT mobo into an ATX case!

Maybe there might be an additional variation with some holes for DB9 (COMx), DB25 (COM/LPT), mini-DIN (PS/2mouse), for which on many later mobos there are onboard connectors and slot shields with the cables attached?

Could really need one!
Too sad due to lack of knowledge in 3D printing I cannot help much except expressing my willingness to pay an acceptable price... what would it approximately cost to print such a thing?

Check the third post in this thread, isn't that more or less exactly what you're describing? Or am I misunderstanding you somehow? 😀 Only the DIN connector hole is premade, and there are cutting guides in case you want to install mouse or com/LPT ports. The third pic shows what it looks like fresh out of the printer, the cutout guides are invisible from the front side if not used.

The material cost is probably less than an euro. I'm at sea now, far from home, so can't weigh my test print, but it can't be more than 20 grammes. A spool of 1 kg quality filament costs about €25-30.

In my printer, it takes about an hour to print, but that of course varies with printer and settings used.

Could print you a shield or three once I get back home, but shipping costs from Sweden to wherever you live (Germany?) will probably make that alternative more expensive than using some local copy shop doing 3D prints. You'd also have to wait, won't be back home in a while.

Reply 34 of 59, by cyclone3d

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Now I am going to have to get myself a 3D printer. Thanks a lot guys! 🤣

Yamaha YMF modified setupds and drivers
Yamaha XG resource repository - updated November 27, 2018
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AW744L II - YMF744 - AOpen Cobra Sound Card - Install SB-Link Header

Reply 35 of 59, by RandomStranger

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GigAHerZ wrote:

Please take a detailed picture of that AT io-shield! There's another topic here in the forum for 3d printing one.

I hope it's detalied enough:
saS4cjOm.jpg

sreq.png

Reply 36 of 59, by mothergoose729

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kaputnik wrote:
Check the third post in this thread, isn't that more or less exactly what you're describing? Or am I misunderstanding you someho […]
Show full quote
retardware wrote:
Just found out which single shield layout probably will "sell" best: […]
Show full quote

Just found out which single shield layout probably will "sell" best:

with just one DIN connector, nothing else...
...just for putting an AT mobo into an ATX case!

Maybe there might be an additional variation with some holes for DB9 (COMx), DB25 (COM/LPT), mini-DIN (PS/2mouse), for which on many later mobos there are onboard connectors and slot shields with the cables attached?

Could really need one!
Too sad due to lack of knowledge in 3D printing I cannot help much except expressing my willingness to pay an acceptable price... what would it approximately cost to print such a thing?

Check the third post in this thread, isn't that more or less exactly what you're describing? Or am I misunderstanding you somehow? 😀 Only the DIN connector hole is premade, and there are cutting guides in case you want to install mouse or com/LPT ports. The third pic shows what it looks like fresh out of the printer, the cutout guides are invisible from the front side if not used.

The material cost is probably less than an euro. I'm at sea now, far from home, so can't weigh my test print, but it can't be more than 20 grammes. A spool of 1 kg quality filament costs about €25-30.

In my printer, it takes about an hour to print, but that of course varies with printer and settings used.

Could print you a shield or three once I get back home, but shipping costs from Sweden to wherever you live (Germany?) will probably make that alternative more expensive than using some local copy shop doing 3D prints. You'd also have to wait, won't be back home in a while.

If you ever decide to sell these things I would be a customer. I have a baby AT motherboard in an ATX case right now. I can find PCI brackets for things like PS/2 mouse and serial ports for the board headers, but all of my headers are at the top of the board (which makes a lot of sense for old AT cases) so I have to route all of the cables over and across my expansion cards, which is awkward and messy, and lose out on a bunch of slots. If you would be willing to make a shield for my board with threaded holes that I can screw things into, I would be happy to pay what it cost! Nobody else offers services like that.

Reply 37 of 59, by kaputnik

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mothergoose729 wrote:
kaputnik wrote:
Check the third post in this thread, isn't that more or less exactly what you're describing? Or am I misunderstanding you someho […]
Show full quote
retardware wrote:
Just found out which single shield layout probably will "sell" best: […]
Show full quote

Just found out which single shield layout probably will "sell" best:

with just one DIN connector, nothing else...
...just for putting an AT mobo into an ATX case!

Maybe there might be an additional variation with some holes for DB9 (COMx), DB25 (COM/LPT), mini-DIN (PS/2mouse), for which on many later mobos there are onboard connectors and slot shields with the cables attached?

Could really need one!
Too sad due to lack of knowledge in 3D printing I cannot help much except expressing my willingness to pay an acceptable price... what would it approximately cost to print such a thing?

Check the third post in this thread, isn't that more or less exactly what you're describing? Or am I misunderstanding you somehow? 😀 Only the DIN connector hole is premade, and there are cutting guides in case you want to install mouse or com/LPT ports. The third pic shows what it looks like fresh out of the printer, the cutout guides are invisible from the front side if not used.

The material cost is probably less than an euro. I'm at sea now, far from home, so can't weigh my test print, but it can't be more than 20 grammes. A spool of 1 kg quality filament costs about €25-30.

In my printer, it takes about an hour to print, but that of course varies with printer and settings used.

Could print you a shield or three once I get back home, but shipping costs from Sweden to wherever you live (Germany?) will probably make that alternative more expensive than using some local copy shop doing 3D prints. You'd also have to wait, won't be back home in a while.

If you ever decide to sell these things I would be a customer. I have a baby AT motherboard in an ATX case right now. I can find PCI brackets for things like PS/2 mouse and serial ports for the board headers, but all of my headers are at the top of the board (which makes a lot of sense for old AT cases) so I have to route all of the cables over and across my expansion cards, which is awkward and messy, and lose out on a bunch of slots. If you would be willing to make a shield for my board with threaded holes that I can screw things into, I would be happy to pay what it cost! Nobody else offers services like that.

Sorry for the extremely late reply, haven't checked this thread for a while, been at sea.

Well, didn't plan to go commercial, but as mentioned earlier, could of course print a few shields here and there for fellow vogoners at self cost + shipping from Sweden to wherever you are 😀

Threads in those small sizes will be more or less impossible to print, the resolution is simply not high enough, but why would you need that anyways? Can't think of any connector that will need a threaded hole. I'm not proficient enough in English to explain why, but check your connectors and see for yourself, they'll most certainly do with smooth holes. Also, regular sheet metal screws could be used with smooth holes if you have some special requirements.

What other connector slots than the ones there already are cutout guides for in the AT board in ATX case shield do you need by the way?

Reply 38 of 59, by debs3759

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kaputnik wrote on 2019-06-03, 11:04:

Well, didn't plan to go commercial, but as mentioned earlier, could of course print a few shields here and there for fellow vogoners at self cost + shipping from Sweden to wherever you are 😀

If you see this and are still willing to print some at cost plus shipping, I could use 5 for AT boards with the pushouts for other cabled devices.

See my graphics card database at www.gpuzoo.com
Constantly being worked on. Feel free to message me with any corrections or details of cards you would like me to research and add.

Reply 39 of 59, by kaputnik

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debs3759 wrote on 2020-09-29, 00:02:
kaputnik wrote on 2019-06-03, 11:04:

Well, didn't plan to go commercial, but as mentioned earlier, could of course print a few shields here and there for fellow vogoners at self cost + shipping from Sweden to wherever you are 😀

If you see this and are still willing to print some at cost plus shipping, I could use 5 for AT boards with the pushouts for other cabled devices.

Yeah, sure, could do that 😀

Had a look at shipping costs, failing to do a good estimation. £15 should definitely cover my expenses for printing 5 shields + shipping to UK with some margin though, unless there are additional customs fees etc nowadays. Haven't sent anything to the UK since before Brexit. Maybe you know how it works?