Fritzchens Fritz wrote on 2022-03-03, 20:35:

Got a bunch of K6-2+ 450ACZ today. ~~~ @Sphere478 I read your pm and keep an eye on it. Can't reply to your pm yet, because of […]
Show full quote

Got a bunch of K6-2+ 450ACZ today.
~~~
@Sphere478
I read your pm and keep an eye on it. Can't reply to your pm yet, because of my newbie status (need more posts).

👍

Added your new entry to the list in OP thank you for the report. Keep them coming! 😀

debs3759 wrote on 2022-03-03, 20:38:

Fritzchens Fritz wrote on 2022-03-03, 20:35:

Got a bunch of K6-2+ 450ACZ today. Picked one of them and was able test this mod successfully. […]
Show full quote

Got a bunch of K6-2+ 450ACZ today. Picked one of them and was able test this mod successfully.

AMD-K6-2+/450ACZ
2.0V CORE/3.3V I/O
A 0030MPMW

2022-03-03_185604_393___57W_2.0V_550MHz_128KB___450ACZ_0030MPMW.png 2022-03-03_203944_045___60W_2.1V_550MHz_256KB___450ACZ_0030MPMW.png
2022-03-03_192310_355___54W_2.0V_550MHz_256KB___450ACZ_0030MPMW.png

-Max stable clock without mod: 550MHz @ 2.0V
-Max stable clock with L2 Mod: 550MHz @ 2.1V
-does not run at 600MHz (not even at 2.4V)
-The die color is red instead of blue like my 500ACZM

@Sphere478
I read your pm and keep an eye on it. Can't reply to your pm yet, because of my newbie status (need more posts).

Cool, thanks for that. This is the first to confirm my theory about the CPUID changing as well. It'll be good to see if this is the same for all CPUs this works on.

Good call debs, ... I wonder if you leave it floating (No jumper) then you can actually write a value to the step field of the Processor State Observability Register (PSOR)... which is normally read only. But then does it survive a warm boot, and would the motherboard actually reset the CPU type on a warm boot?

I know right, everyone else sees answers, I see an array of further interesting questions 🤣

I present to you the guide for the:
K6-2+ to k6-3+ mod

First off, get yourself a nice 570mhz k62+!

Next, we gotta pop the lid off.
Now legend says, a little acetone makes it pop off like cutting through butter..

Well guys, idk if my acetone was not the good stuff or what, but it literally did nothing what so ever to it.

So I used the same method as last time..

Get you one of these kinda razors

When you cut, angle it down a little so you are cutting as close as you can to the ceramic as possible.

Once you cut all four corners pop in a normal utility knife razor like this:

^Only push it in about this far.^

Lift up on the razor slowly,,, and,,,,, !POP!

Next we gotta do some cleaning!

It takes a lot of rubbing, you may get a blister, but a flat fabric and some water seems to work the best, (even better than fabric and acetone… oddly) but don’t worry we’ll find a use for that acetone soon enough. (a green scrubby may work here also)

All clean!!

Now the lid…
A piece of plastic and your finger nail seem to be the best tools for this, and the fabric trick. (best stick to these as other methods will scratch aluminum)

It’s important that all the residue is removed and cleaned very well in these two photos you can see the difference between scraped clean and scraped/rubbed clean

It’s quite a bit of work, but now all clean!!!

Now it’s time to mod!

You should really consider immobilizing the chip. It helps a lot.

It seems the best way to get that 0 ohm link off is hot air or a good ole fashioned solder blob.
(Do be sure to use some flux)

Now to clean!!
Finally we can use that acetone to break up the flux, and some soap, water, and a tooth brush to get into all the cracks.

The keen among you will note that the link is not yet installed…

There is a reason for that..

Earlier in the thread there were some accounts of chips working as k6-3+ with no link installed.

So I decided to test!

But first, let’s test out the shim idea,

Annnnddd it didn’t work..

Mainly I think because I didn’t use a Dremel and ended up bending it all to heck.

So I just tried a regular old heatsink….
But then I heard a noise when playing with the clip, so…

Annndd… now the die has a suuuper tiny chip in it…

Crap..

guys/gals, you gotta reinstall the IHS!

there really isn’t a option here. The die is just too delicate. The shim may help but the die is still gonna chip.

But good news everyone

My chip still works so testing can continue!

The rumors were true! Removing the link indeed does allow the chip to show as k6-3+
I don’t recommend trying to crush the link though. As it may lift the pads and cause damage to the chip. You must use soldering tools! Btw, if using hot air, do be sure to not aim it at the core or core epoxy.
Here is a screen of the 570 with no link

Now to install the link.

For this I ended up discovering that hot air was superior to the soldering iron. I had to get it melted down first though. So kinda had to hold it in place with the tip of the utility razor blade while heat was applied.

Turned out well. Both soldering and desoldering this link is rather difficult. And you really need to have the proper tools. Flux, 60/40 rosin core solder, hot air station, high wattage fine tip iron.

Now to clean again…

And here we go! Doesn’t seem to care if that resistor is installed it seems….

Most recent edit: to reattachment method.
The latest way I am doing this is with 3m 5200 and thermal grizzly kryonaut. The 5200 is very similar to the stuff AMD used, but is kinda hard to put a drop of it on the lid. You have to use something small like a tooth pick and coax it into a ball. It also takes a very long time to cure. It’s moisture cure so leave it in your bathroom near the shower for a week or two before trying to use it.

Also, there is now a documented method for liquid metal: Re: AMD K6 3DMARK, aiming for stars.

we now have 3d printed alignment files. Should you wish to do it this way:

Re: SUCCESSFUL K6-2+ to K6-3+ Full Cache Enable Mod

download/file.php?id=134535

These are old pics from old methods that show the proper application drop size and what is too big.

First attempt failed, too much stuff,

Too much stuff^
Gonna try a little less this time…>

Try again… (acetone to the rescue)

Lookin good!

By the way, be sure to put the lid on the right way, 570mhz is printed at the top right corner on the ceramic. That will help you orient which side is top.

I’m going to put these here, thank you fritz for your efforts in this thread, not only for these images uploaded in this reply, but for risking your rare cpus and being the first person to successfully do the mod!

The images are pretty self explanatory, we now have a way to program, zero kb, 128kb, or 256kb of on die l2 cache.

To test your new cache:

Memtest 86+ can be set up to test the cache by doing this:

Press C
Select 2
Select Upper address range
enter 262144 bytes
enter
0 to continue
Figured out thanks to cats help

Don’t miss the Video:

Here are some vids

https://youtu.be/n_ArvBGrD9w

https://youtu.be/pCfdQQtXNF4

https://youtu.be/8__sqFNnpRA

https://youtu.be/ujlXTQWa7R4

https://youtu.be/hDfWu2-epp0

https://youtube.com/shorts/09nsC7tC2-U?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/sfq7EXQe2zI?feature=share

https://youtu.be/xdtEhC8yTTQ

And another:

https://youtu.be/5Aw2U_BZnSk

Here is a video version of the guide. Thanks Bloodem!

End of mod guide.

Images for above replies

Reserved

So many reserved posts for a pretty straightforward mod?😅

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-03-05, 13:02:

So many reserved posts for a pretty straightforward mod?😅

Maybe a secret is discovered with the upper resistor?!? Maybe we find a better thermal adhesive, lid adhesive.

Who knows.

Maybe patterns are discovered for which chips will have trouble unlocking.

Gonna keep some spots reserved in case more info

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-03-05, 13:31:

Maybe a secret is discovered with the upper resistor?!? Maybe we find a better thermal adhesive, lid adhesive. […]
Show full quote

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-03-05, 13:02:

So many reserved posts for a pretty straightforward mod?😅

Maybe a secret is discovered with the upper resistor?!? Maybe we find a better thermal adhesive, lid adhesive.

Who knows.

Maybe patterns are discovered for which chips will have trouble unlocking.

Gonna keep some spots reserved in case more info

Might be better to condense all of the new findings into new threads and link both pages to eachother as people are less likely to find it on page 13 here again somewhere down the line. Who knows how much more replies are gonna get added.
And the empty spots just make this thread more cumbersome to read for not really a good reason anyway.

EDIT: At the very least add some links to here in the thread start. Threads like these are gonna end up somewhat messy no matter what you try 😜

Tetrium wrote on 2022-03-05, 13:37:

Might be better to condense all of the new findings into new threads and link both pages to eachother as people are less likely […]
Show full quote

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-03-05, 13:31:

Maybe a secret is discovered with the upper resistor?!? Maybe we find a better thermal adhesive, lid adhesive. […]
Show full quote

Doornkaat wrote on 2022-03-05, 13:02:

So many reserved posts for a pretty straightforward mod?😅

Maybe a secret is discovered with the upper resistor?!? Maybe we find a better thermal adhesive, lid adhesive.

Who knows.

Maybe patterns are discovered for which chips will have trouble unlocking.

Gonna keep some spots reserved in case more info

Might be better to condense all of the new findings into new threads and link both pages to eachother as people are less likely to find it on page 13 here again somewhere down the line. Who knows how much more replies are gonna get added.
And the empty spots just make this thread more cumbersome to read for not really a good reason anyway.

EDIT: At the very least add some links to here in the thread start. Threads like these are gonna end up somewhat messy no matter what you try 😜

You may wanna check post # 1😁

It’s been getting regular updates.

If you're really, really soldering averse, one could try scoring at the solder, close to the resistor, with a sharp knife, until it's judged you're down to the level of the pad, then grip it with tips of pliers and twist.... I have used this kind of technique in delicate areas that I haven't wanted to heat up twice... another way to remove after you've weakened the solder would be to use a sewing pin or needle as a chisel and tap it under until it pops.

Wobble and rocking the sink is the core killer, so using the same method that Athlon XP used is viable. My K6-2s back in the day got some small foam pads at the corners to stabilise things. A different idea I am going to try out though is to see whether thick bag closers, the plastic type with a slit in the side, are thick enough to cut into corner supports. The typical bread bag ones are too thin, but then there's a thicker type that might be used on bags of apples, potatoes, and on milk in Ontario.

Just starting to wonder though, since water is said to clean up the corner goop, whether dropping the CPU in boiling water to get the heatspreader off will work.... but you'll wanna get it super dry after, not just surface dry, in case any components absorbed any water.

BitWrangler wrote on 2022-03-05, 14:55:

If you're really, really soldering averse, one could try scoring at the solder, close to the resistor, with a sharp knife, until it's judged you're down to the level of the pad, then grip it with tips of pliers and twist.... I have used this kind of technique in delicate areas that I haven't wanted to heat up twice... another way to remove after you've weakened the solder would be to use a sewing pin or needle as a chisel and tap it under until it pops.

Wobble and rocking the sink is the core killer, so using the same method that Athlon XP used is viable. My K6-2s back in the day got some small foam pads at the corners to stabilise things. A different idea I am going to try out though is to see whether thick bag closers, the plastic type with a slit in the side, are thick enough to cut into corner supports. The typical bread bag ones are too thin, but then there's a thicker type that might be used on bags of apples, potatoes, and on milk in Ontario.

Just starting to wonder though, since water is said to clean up the corner goop, whether dropping the CPU in boiling water to get the heatspreader off will work.... but you'll wanna get it super dry after, not just surface dry, in case any components absorbed any water.

The goop isn’t water soluble, just the friction/ cleaning action seems to be better when the fabric is wet.

I don’t expect boiling will help.

Your mechanical removal idea may work, but my reaction is. Don’t, just don’t…. 😬 props for a clever idea though. It honestly may work… but don’t do that 🤣

Don't if the reason you don't wanna solder is you're too clumsy. Or the instructions will go, remove heatspreader with razor blade... then with your remaining nine digits... 🤣

BTW those double edge blades can be snapped in half, just fold them over, best done in the paper they came in (unless they came out of one of those dispenser things then fold them in thick paper, then fold them in half.) Anyway, then they've got a "less sharp" edge to handle. i.e. you can press against it a bit, but it will still go into your skin if you do it too hard.