VOGONS


First post, by Panties

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Hi Vogons Gurus,
(Sorry if this question has been raised.... i try to find vogons but no luck..)
I'm not an electrician, so, kindly educate me..

There is an adapter, "AT to ATX" , which

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZPWJBX
from shopee:
https://shopee.com.my/UtilizingEverything-20P … 9f-b1e597b1d2eb

My question is, assuming I bought a 1000Watts Power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/LC-POWER-Gaming-Platin … T1zcF9hdGY&th=1

I know it is "Overkill" and most retro board, should be around 200 watts or below...
but... If I plug it in, turn it on, Will I kill my Retro board? Will it burn ?

Thank you in advance. (FYI, I'm not going to get that high.. perhaps the lowest i can find, is ATX 500watts, for my old pentium 166MMX that I have.. it is overkill....)

Reply 1 of 15, by jakethompson1

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As long as the motherboard is in good condition, it won't hurt it. The issue is if there is a short circuit. There are "smart" ATX2AT adapters out there with soft fuses and such to try and protect your board.

Reply 2 of 15, by kingcake

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Power supplies only provide as much power as the load can pull (up until the power supply reaches it's limit and overload protection kicks in). So if your load needs 200 watts, that's all the supply will provide. It can't jam 1000 watts into a 200 watt load.

Keep in mind modern power supplies focus on providing lots of current on the +12V rail(s). Older power supplies focused on their +5V rail(s).

Reply 3 of 15, by Gmlb256

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It won't kill the motherboard and that PSU will never reach the max wattage. I have used a similar ATX to AT adapter without troubles.

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Reply 4 of 15, by Panties

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Thank you guys...

thanks for your feed back, I decided to buy it...

also, After reading jakethompson1's comment, I googled and I stumbled upon...
Re: ATX2AT Smart Converter - Live on Kickstarter!
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/doctb/at … -retro-hardware
https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/A … X2AT_v1_02.html

It is a "ATX2AT Smart Converter" , and most of IT, are DIY.
Interestingly, I want to buy one, but
I don't have the necessary skills to build one.

Do you guys have any idea, where I can purchase the "Full-Ready-Made" version? 😒
I tried Ebay and Amazon, but no luck... Not even shopee... hmm..

Reply 6 of 15, by acl

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I used an AT converter with my 1000W PSU on a Socket 7 sytem without issue.
It was just a simple ATX to AT breakout cable.

SilverStone SST-ST1000G is the PSU I installed on my test bench. So I used it with a lot of systems without issues.

BUT

That will really depends on your PSU. And i ll recommend it to be rated with a good efficiency.
Something like 80+ Gold

AND

Most modern PSU don't provide -12V and some cards may require it. I have a MediaVision Jazz16 that can't play digital sound properly without -12V and I had to install a VoltageBlaster for that

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Reply 7 of 15, by CharlieFoxtrot

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kingcake wrote on 2023-10-21, 06:49:

An ATX to AT converter with a screen? And needs firmware updates? That seems like a solution looking for a problem.

Yeah, I think this is very over engineered for running this permanently on a system, BUT I think it can be useful for testing and repair jobs. My bet is that this is what it's mainly designed for in the first place, as most features are quite far from useful in a known working system.

Reply 8 of 15, by rasz_pl

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ATX2AT Smart Converter is more on a fun side of what would we if we could, and since we can lets do it all.

@Panties big PSU wattage doesnt mean you will blow something up. Its like mounting bigger fuel tank in a car, or upgrading house from 50A to 200A link.

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Reply 9 of 15, by nhattu1986

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you also need to watch out for the wattage of the 5V and 3.3V rails, those 'big' PSU only supply a tiny amount of power on those line, and they often combined them together and peak at ~100W
if you load you board with a bunch of card, you will put your PSU into cross load scenario where the 5v & 3.3v is at 100% usage but 12v is around 10% usage.
From the datasheet, your PSU is only able to supply 100W max for the 5v+3.3v, at least your PSU is using DC-DC converter so the voltage at those rails should not off too much.
Also be careful of shorting 12V line, those big PSU have high cut off values on 12V rails, so if your board is short on 12v, it will burn pretty well

Reply 11 of 15, by TehGuy

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acl wrote on 2023-10-21, 08:01:

Most modern PSU don't provide -12V and some cards may require it. I have a MediaVision Jazz16 that can't play digital sound properly without -12V and I had to install a VoltageBlaster for that

Amusingly enough, most EVGA PSUs I look at (and use) seem to come with a -12V rail and work as long as you aren't hitting the 5v/3.3v wattage limit.

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Reply 12 of 15, by Gmlb256

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It isn't actually the -5V rail? Something that I don't really worry about unless you have ISA cards that really needs it.

VIA C3 Nehemiah 1.2A @ 1.46 GHz | ASUS P2-99 | 256 MB PC133 SDRAM | GeForce3 Ti 200 64 MB | Voodoo2 12 MB | SBLive! | AWE64 | SBPro2 | GUS

Reply 13 of 15, by acl

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Gmlb256 wrote on 2023-10-22, 15:05:

It isn't actually the -5V rail? Something that I don't really worry about unless you have ISA cards that really needs it.

You're correct, it's -5 and not -12
👍
My mistake

"Hello, my friend. Stay awhile and listen..."
My collection (not up to date)

Reply 14 of 15, by Panties

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Thanks you all Gurus, for your time and advice.

I will proceed with all of your advices in mind. Gonna shop for PSU above 80 + Gold Grade...

One last thing.... VoltageBlaster, I found one on https://www.ebay.com.my/itm/174744918558

I do have ESS ISA Soundcard and 2 Creative ISA SoundBlaster(its creative, but I'm not sure the model...)
Is there a excel/google sheet of list of Retro Soundcard, that indicate which soundcard that requires -5v rails/VoltageBlaster to work with modern ATX PSU?

Reply 15 of 15, by svfn

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ISA Cards & Devices Requiring -5V not excel though, just a short list.

For modern PSU I'd get something with 20-25A on the +5V rail, it's harder to find but still possible for older units, some newer units also removed the -12V, which is needed for serial port/cards if I am not mistaken: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questio … ent189022_57402

I'd get a DC-DC one too instead of older group regulated design so cross load will be safer. DC-DC units are at least tier C: https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

I don't think you'd need to spend a lot on a latest model or one with huge wattage. Something like the older Corsair TX650M would be good. Or Super Flower Leadex Silver which should be cheaper new.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair- … r-supply-review

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