That's some refurbishing project you are up to - I don't envy you ...

My best guess would be a straight approach:
a) replace the complete hinges by a 3D print (maybe with some additional support struts) and attach them with superglue
c) cut out the broken part with a dremel and replace it with a 3D print
d) see if you can carefully remove the IBM sticker and spray paint the parts (either with RAL 9002 grey white or RAL 1013 oyster white, both in silk mat)
... if you fit the broken part following the edges, the seams will probably be almost invisible.

I know that's a lot of work ...
Otherwise you can just wait till another broken case turns up that you can strip, but this could take a while and it would be only half the fun 😉

Here's what I came up with so far, right hinge (works pretty good),

and left hinge, with gear.

Left one is how I imagine it should look like, but haven't really got a clue. Still need to tweak the design to make the soft open really work.

Again, if someone has one of these and can share a picture, it would be much appreciated!

Hey, I need some for my IBM PS\1 front cover too.
Anyone know where I can get some ?

Right-hand side looks pretty similar to my 2144's.
I'm attaching the STL files and SVG I created them from, if you want to give it a shot.

Progress update, though I still have no idea how the original left hinge looks, I managed to draft one that works.
I'm attaching the latest source files in case they are useful to someone else.

sam95 wrote on 2021-02-08, 17:15:

Progress update, though I still have no idea how the original left hinge looks, I managed to draft one that works. I'm attaching […]
Show full quote

Progress update, though I still have no idea how the original left hinge looks, I managed to draft one that works.
I'm attaching the latest source files in case they are useful to someone else.

Aptiva 2144 right hinge R2.jpg

Aptiva 2144 left hinge R8.jpg

Hey Sam, can you share which material you used to print? For gluing the parts, what type of glue did you use?
And thank you so much for creating these parts! My Aptiva 330 just had those broken during a cleaning session today.

Hey, I'm happy to learn that this might be useful for you.
I printed the parts with PLA and used Loctite super glue (the basic stuff, just the version that comes with a brush).

I realized I never uploaded pics of the end result, so here they are (you'll notice I was lazy to not properly color match the new pieces).

By the way, if you still have the part that got broken off, I'd be interested in seeing a picture of it -- it might help me improve the 3D model, having it be based on an actual part rather than something that merely works.

sam95 wrote on 2021-05-10, 00:04:

Hey, I'm happy to learn that this might be useful for you. I printed the parts with PLA and used Loctite super glue (the basic s […]
Show full quote

Hey, I'm happy to learn that this might be useful for you.
I printed the parts with PLA and used Loctite super glue (the basic stuff, just the version that comes with a brush).

I realized I never uploaded pics of the end result, so here they are (you'll notice I was lazy to not properly color match the new pieces).

By the way, if you still have the part that got broken off, I'd be interested in seeing a picture of it -- it might help me improve the 3D model, having it be based on an actual part rather than something that merely works.

Hey sam95, sorry for the delay on updating this. Unfortunately I don't have the broken parts anymore. My mistake was to print the part with ABS then, it just wouldn't glue itself and kept cracking with modelling ABS glue.
Will try to re-print with PLA!

Thanks,
A

alpm wrote on 2022-01-02, 19:59:

Hey sam95, sorry for the delay on updating this. Unfortunately I don't have the broken parts anymore. My mistake was to print th […]
Show full quote

sam95 wrote on 2021-05-10, 00:04:

Hey, I'm happy to learn that this might be useful for you. I printed the parts with PLA and used Loctite super glue (the basic s […]
Show full quote

Hey, I'm happy to learn that this might be useful for you.
I printed the parts with PLA and used Loctite super glue (the basic stuff, just the version that comes with a brush).

I realized I never uploaded pics of the end result, so here they are (you'll notice I was lazy to not properly color match the new pieces).

By the way, if you still have the part that got broken off, I'd be interested in seeing a picture of it -- it might help me improve the 3D model, having it be based on an actual part rather than something that merely works.

Hey sam95, sorry for the delay on updating this. Unfortunately I don't have the broken parts anymore. My mistake was to print the part with ABS then, it just wouldn't glue itself and kept cracking with modelling ABS glue.
Will try to re-print with PLA!

Thanks,
A

Have you tried the superglue+bakingpowder aproach for gluing together? It is a trick from the plastic model kit world.
Test first on a piece of cardboard, when you start learning this. The second you add super glue to the powder, it becomes hard like concrete.

brostenen wrote on 2022-01-02, 20:07:

alpm wrote on 2022-01-02, 19:59:

Hey sam95, sorry for the delay on updating this. Unfortunately I don't have the broken parts anymore. My mistake was to print th […]
Show full quote

sam95 wrote on 2021-05-10, 00:04:

Hey, I'm happy to learn that this might be useful for you. I printed the parts with PLA and used Loctite super glue (the basic s […]
Show full quote

Hey, I'm happy to learn that this might be useful for you.
I printed the parts with PLA and used Loctite super glue (the basic stuff, just the version that comes with a brush).

I realized I never uploaded pics of the end result, so here they are (you'll notice I was lazy to not properly color match the new pieces).

By the way, if you still have the part that got broken off, I'd be interested in seeing a picture of it -- it might help me improve the 3D model, having it be based on an actual part rather than something that merely works.

Hey sam95, sorry for the delay on updating this. Unfortunately I don't have the broken parts anymore. My mistake was to print the part with ABS then, it just wouldn't glue itself and kept cracking with modelling ABS glue.
Will try to re-print with PLA!

Thanks,
A

Have you tried the superglue+bakingpowder aproach for gluing together? It is a trick from the plastic model kit world.
Test first on a piece of cardboard, when you start learning this. The second you add super glue to the powder, it becomes hard like concrete.

Hey sam95! I've tried that on my first attempt. However, the hinge got too large to fit (dremeled it down, but it broke). Then I tried ABS-specific glue from a local model shop. It didn't work great too as it was brittle and cracking. At the next attempt I grabbed some random piece of ABS, melted it together with the hinge and front-panel and added some ABS-glue on top. It's not pretty (see attached pictures) though and has some considerable amount of super-glue-baking-soda from my first attempt last year.

sam95 wrote on 2021-02-08, 17:15:

Progress update, though I still have no idea how the original left hinge looks, I managed to draft one that works. I'm attaching […]
Show full quote

Progress update, though I still have no idea how the original left hinge looks, I managed to draft one that works.
I'm attaching the latest source files in case they are useful to someone else.

Aptiva 2144 right hinge R2.jpg

Aptiva 2144 left hinge R8.jpg

Thank you so much, that hinge works flawlessy!!!

But one of my Aptivas is missing also the little lock on the front panel that keeps the front panel locked to the rest of the case.
Did someone managed to create a stl of that as well? (I've attached an image of where it was supposed to be).

I haven't and I can't do it right now, but here are some pictures that I took of one if you'd like to create one yourself.
Basically what I did was to take the profile of the part in photoshop and make it purely black/white (black part on white background), then import that profile in a 3D software (like TinkerCAD) and extrude it to the thickness.
The outer measures are in the attached pictures, but it's 2.5mm thick, 11.5 mm long and 6mm wide.
Give me a shout if you're stuck and I can try to help when I get the time.

caiot5 wrote on 2023-09-28, 06:00:

Thank you so much, that hinge works flawlessy!!! […]
Show full quote

sam95 wrote on 2021-02-08, 17:15:

Progress update, though I still have no idea how the original left hinge looks, I managed to draft one that works. I'm attaching […]
Show full quote

Progress update, though I still have no idea how the original left hinge looks, I managed to draft one that works.
I'm attaching the latest source files in case they are useful to someone else.

Aptiva 2144 right hinge R2.jpg

Aptiva 2144 left hinge R8.jpg

Thank you so much, that hinge works flawlessy!!!

But one of my Aptivas is missing also the little lock on the front panel that keeps the front panel locked to the rest of the case.
Did someone managed to create a stl of that as well? (I've attached an image of where it was supposed to be).

sam95 wrote on 2023-11-20, 13:47:

I haven't and I can't do it right now, but here are some pictures that I took of one if you'd like to create one yourself. Basic […]
Show full quote

I haven't and I can't do it right now, but here are some pictures that I took of one if you'd like to create one yourself.
Basically what I did was to take the profile of the part in photoshop and make it purely black/white (black part on white background), then import that profile in a 3D software (like TinkerCAD) and extrude it to the thickness.
The outer measures are in the attached pictures, but it's 2.5mm thick, 11.5 mm long and 6mm wide.
Give me a shout if you're stuck and I can try to help when I get the time.

Thank you so much, I will check if a friend can help me with modelling, if he does and if he agrees on sharing the project, I will attach it here.

Sorry for reviving old posts, but it is related.
My IBM Aptiva 2134 is missing the whole Pull-Down Door (part number 42H0348 for Machine Type 2134/2144).
I friend told me he will try to 3d print one, if I find a 3d model or some pictures with mesurements.
Can anyone help me, please ?

If you find a 3d model (that's accurate, like .iges, .step, .dxf, etc), just print it. (.stl is JUST another triangle mesh model format. free conversion tools exist.)

Creating a model that IS accurate requires using calipers and CAD software, but is not hard.

Most 3d printers want the .stl unit type to be milimeters.

That is the problem, I cant find any 3d model. I dont know how to use AI, but I bet AI can generate a 3d model based on the IBM documentation and/or pictures with mesurements.

Why? Just use something like freecad or sketchup.

(You'll still need accurate measurements, which is why you need calipers)

How to make "accurate measurements" when my IBM Aptiva is missing the whole thing?

Measure the cavity, the distances between the existing mounting pegs that would hold the door, etc.

One can reverse derive a decent facsimile of the door this way.