Having solved the problem of the ASUS P4P800 Deluxe, I return to the MSI MS-6309 VER: 2, this time with floppy drive and boot disk containing the correct BIOS file and a couple of flash programs, one of these is uniflash also used on the PINE , however connected all the boot HW and after a couple of attempts, I can boot from floppy, through uniflash I can view the info on the chip and on the BIOS currently present.

In fact it is the one for the MS-6309 but the version is wrong (1 instead of 2), so I think to save the present version on the floppy before writing the correct one, proceed to save, and then take a look at the other options, I don't know what happened at one point it crashed, and all that remains is to reset.

Unfortunately it hasn't restarted anymore, the post card always marks - -, among other things I notice that in the mosfet VRM chipset area there is a certain heat, even the cpu said is hot enough, but I think it is not a problem having the fan spinning, another strange thing is that the voltages on the mosfets are normal, but both the inductor and the capacitors are quite hot.

Here I waited for everything to cool down properly, then I did several CMOS resets, everything was useless, unfortunately I don't know if the failed boot is due to the BIOS, but I think that simply saving does not cause problems, but I cannot be sure that have a problem because I don't have a programmer that reads that Winbond chip.

I have seen if other chips are compatible but the ones that are I cannot program them.

It has already happened to me with other motherboards, which after a few starts without any reason have not started anymore, and unfortunately I could not understand what blocks the start, they have the voltages in place, of course it could be a failure but it should be understood where it is, which is not easy with a limited equipment, finally I should have no doubts about the capacitors, sometimes they could be broken even if they do not show leaks or swelling, and here we would have to change them to be sure they work.

These three chips arrived today, a couple are old processors for PC XT, unfortunately I don't have motherboards of the period to be able to try them, I hope in the future to find something very cheap, I know that there are some boards remade or others that have been modernized, maybe a suggestion would be useful.

Going back to the motherboards, I tried an ASRock ConRoeXFire-eSATA2, the board had a couple of capacitors to replace, the job was done some time ago, but the boot attempts were not successful.
I try again today, the CPU that is present should be a Celeron D 330J, obviously it is not the one I would use in this card, but to test it is okay, as memory I use 512MB DDR2 533, I use 533 ones because they are compatible with any CPU.
At the first start it does not give any positive sign, the POST CARD shows - -, I reset the CMOS and try to start without RAM, it starts to display codes until it emits three beeps repeated at regular intervals.
Obviously the beeps are caused by the memory, I restart after putting it back, and the POST codes stop at 39 38, if I press the reset to a certain code the PC turns off and after a few seconds it restarts, always stopping on codes 39 38.
I don't know what's going on, because it doesn't display anything on the screen, the only thing I can do is try another CPU, and see if the BIOS is read by the programmer, in that case I could rewrite it but I don't think that's the problem, rather since it turns off it is possible that there is something (mosfet for example) fault, you should look for those in the VGA area.
It had also displayed other codes, if I'm not mistaken when there was no RAM, but if so I don't think they are useful.

I go back to writing on the ASRock MB, the problem is that block at post code 39, I found other info about it, what is written in the POST-CARD booklet is not correct, it concerns the old BIOS versions, so it is not a " display error message ... "actually is this:
Initializes DMAC-1 & DMAC-2

I don't know exactly what it indicates, or what the DMAC is, I would need help here.
I tried with another processor, always CeleronD, nothing changes, it always derms on 39.
Observing the board I notice in some points of the oxidation, they are in the pins of some SMDs, I remember having cleaned them some time ago with a spray, but evidently over time the oxide could have reformed.
In this regard, having other boards with oxidized areas, I would like some advice, what to use to clean them better?
Sometimes the oxide seems to form in dry areas, and the oxide is light in color, others are oily and the oxide tends to green.

Today I got this strange motherboard, strangely there is no slot, but luckily all the essentials are integrated, so video audio LAN and USB, the chipset is intel i810, this limits the usable CPUs a little, but fortunately none I have some that can be fine, initially I will try with a Celeron, unfortunately I don't know if the SKT370 is compatible with coppermine CPUs, in this case it would limit the card performance a lot, and a Celeron Mendocino up to 533MHz would be usable at most, I think are some Coppermine backwards compatible, but I don't think I have any.
It needs a power supply with a particular six-pin connector, but I think you can avoid the purchase by modifying a normal ATX, or you would need a special adapter, but I don't think there are any for sale, alternatively there would be self-construction.
As I wrote in another post, the board is in good condition, but it arrived with some damage, some broken tracks, which should be repaired without too much difficulty, and some missing SMDs (about five), mostly resistors, I'll put the photos of the details where there are the missing ones.
It has a couple of PC100 RAM slots, and I think you can put up to 512MB of Total RAM, of course I will initially use a smaller amount, on similar cards I have 192MB total, more I can't put in, because that PC crashes, but maybe this is because I don't have 256MB modules to try, at least the maximum I have is 128MB modules each.
In this card there should be a connector for connecting a Modem, obviously that I don't have, strangely I don't see connectors for Serial ports, but for the connection you can use adapters for USB ports, or for PS2 mouse port.
I have no idea which PIN is the PWR_ON one, there is a Panel1 connector, I think it is among those, and if I can fix the tracks and put the missing SMDs back, I think it will not be too complicated to find the PIN to start, having a manual would help me and I would go safe.

Image SMD

Although this is an earlier board version than mine (i810 rather than i810E), and linked by @Big Pink , I still have some general info on the BookPC series which might help.

Your i810 came in two board versions - v1.6A & v3.3A (marked next to the PS/2 ports - am thinking yours is v1.6A?). Think there are BIOS updates still available for both versions. Assuming v1.6A, even with the latest BIOS, the board supports Intel Celeron 300-533MHz 2.0V and Intel Celeron 533A-600MHz B0 Stepping 1.5V socket 370 CPUs, but hardware prevents support of the 1.65/1.7V versions (v3.3A has much broader Celeron support).

The official manual is of little help regarding connectors & jumpers - https://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/archive/pcchip … 10/bki810ma.zip - but this additional write-up from Amptron Tech Support may be of more help - https://manualzilla.com/doc/7256589/elitegrou … 810-motherboard

Got the motherboard and the proper camera out. Tried to match your close-up shots for easier comparison. Also, for power input there's a photo from one of the Japanese sites of a simple molex adapter. I've reached my attachment limit for this post, but I have the same two documents in PDF form if that would be helpful.

PC Hoarder Patrol wrote on 2022-01-14, 07:16:

Although this is an earlier board version than mine (i810 rather than i810E), and linked by @Big Pink , I still have some general info on the BookPC series which might help.

Your i810 came in two board versions - v1.6A & v3.3A (marked next to the PS/2 ports - am thinking yours is v1.6A?). Think there are BIOS updates still available for both versions. Assuming v1.6A, even with the latest BIOS, the board supports Intel Celeron 300-533MHz 2.0V and Intel Celeron 533A-600MHz B0 Stepping 1.5V socket 370 CPUs, but hardware prevents support of the 1.65/1.7V versions (v3.3A has much broader Celeron support).

The official manual is of little help regarding connectors & jumpers - https://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/archive/pcchip … 10/bki810ma.zip - but this additional write-up from Amptron Tech Support may be of more help - https://manualzilla.com/doc/7256589/elitegrou … 810-motherboard

Thank you very much, you have been very helpful in providing me with information that I would not find anywhere.
Yes, the MB version is V1.6A, so Celerons are fine, although I don't quite understand why 1.7V Celerons are not supported.
I will gladly take a look at the links you have provided, I think they will be interesting in any case, I hope to be able to get this card back into operation, I have other i810s but I would like to recover it just for the particularity and I think it is also quite rare

Big Pink wrote on 2022-01-14, 19:39:

Got the motherboard and the proper camera out. Tried to match your close-up shots for easier comparison. Also, for power input there's a photo from one of the Japanese sites of a simple molex adapter. I've reached my attachment limit for this post, but I have the same two documents in PDF form if that would be helpful.

Thank you very much, you have been very kind, the photos are essential to understand which resistances were missing and what values ​​they have.
As I said the version of the MB is V1.6A, I don't know if yours is the same, however the adapter in the picture is a great idea, but I don't know if the green wire is missing, the card can start anyway?
Looking at the photos you posted, only one I can not see (read) the resistor value, it is in the DSCF5030.JPG, it is the resistor at the top of the edge near the RAM bank, I ask you if you can do it again, because with the one you have put it is not seen, the RAM bank covers the SMD.
I think in the next few days I will search and weld the missing components, after that I will have to fix those tracks that are interrupted.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2022-01-14, 20:16:

however the adapter in the picture is a great idea, but I don't know if the green wire is missing, the card can start anyway?

I believe I saw it on this site. I ran it through Google Translate and it said it would work without the PS_ON signal. If you use that molex adapter off a proper ATX supply then you still need a way to get the PSU to start without a 20-pin power input header - this is why I got an ATX breakout board.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2022-01-13, 22:58:

I have no idea which PIN is the PWR_ON one, there is a Panel1 connector

I've seen one wired up in a proper ATX case but I don't know which wires correspond to which pins as the angle and resolution of the photo aren't good enough.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2022-01-14, 20:16:

Looking at the photos you posted, only one I can not see (read) the resistor value, it is in the DSCF5030.JPG

Sorry. I took a bunch of photos and that was the only one in proper focus. I never noticed I'd cut the top off. I've attached a quick photo of that spot taken through a magnifying glass.

I found a bunch of drivers last year (modem, ethernet, sound) but I don't know how trustworthy they are as they're all EXE files. The sound chip is CMI8738 audio (rebadged as SoundPro). Phil has drivers which might work.

This little motherboard was intended for web browsing, though that'll be almost impossible with the current state of the web, and the lack of expansion rules out much Windows gaming. Maybe some DOS gaming, dependent on the sound drivers.

Big Pink wrote on 2022-01-14, 21:09:

I believe I saw it on this site. I ran it through Google Translate and it said it would work without the PS_ON signal. If you us […]
Show full quote

PC@LIVE wrote on 2022-01-14, 20:16:

however the adapter in the picture is a great idea, but I don't know if the green wire is missing, the card can start anyway?

I believe I saw it on this site. I ran it through Google Translate and it said it would work without the PS_ON signal. If you use that molex adapter off a proper ATX supply then you still need a way to get the PSU to start without a 20-pin power input header - this is why I got an ATX breakout board.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2022-01-13, 22:58:

I have no idea which PIN is the PWR_ON one, there is a Panel1 connector

I've seen one wired up in a proper ATX case but I don't know which wires correspond to which pins as the angle and resolution of the photo aren't good enough.

PC@LIVE wrote on 2022-01-14, 20:16:

Looking at the photos you posted, only one I can not see (read) the resistor value, it is in the DSCF5030.JPG

Sorry. I took a bunch of photos and that was the only one in proper focus. I never noticed I'd cut the top off. I've attached a quick photo of that spot taken through a magnifying glass.

I found a bunch of drivers last year (modem, ethernet, sound) but I don't know how trustworthy they are as they're all EXE files. The sound chip is CMI8738 audio (rebadged as SoundPro). Phil has drivers which might work.

This little motherboard was intended for web browsing, though that'll be almost impossible with the current state of the web, and the lack of expansion rules out much Windows gaming. Maybe some DOS gaming, dependent on the sound drivers.

Ok perfect thank you very much, that was the resistance.
I will see in the next few days to do the repairs, for the cpu I have to see if I have compatible coppermine.

For the driver discourse, having a PC100 card (aka PCChips) M766LMRT2, I should have them in the supplied CD, that card differs both for the AT format instead of bkATX ?, and for the presence of three PCI slots, overall it is a card that I have used for several years with Celeron Mendocino CPU, a few years ago the Celeron was changed to a PIII 370 via Slot1 adapter, the last was a PIII 1000/100.
I had another i810 from Siemens, I think I remember the model, it should be D1120, unfortunately one day it did not start anymore although the tensions are all present, lately I have reviewed it but I have not found anything strange, I do not know why it does not leave more, however I would like to be able to fix it.

I summarize the situation, the board I have been working on lately is the ECS BKi810, the version is 1.6A, this as mentioned previously limits the use to only Celeron Mendocino or to some 1.5V Coppermine (max 600MHz), yes they can use faster CPUs using an adapter like the NEO-S370, fortunately on the MB there is the jumper J10, closing it forces the CPU to 100MHz, if it works you can bring a Celeron 300A up to 450MHz, it remains to understand if this does not create problems with something else.
I found the values ​​of the missing resistors, thanks to the photos of Big Pink, for the capacitor I don't know what to use, I'll just use one similar to the closest one.
The resistances are as follows:
R348 = 76C = 60K4OHm
R352 = 18C = 15KOhm
R335 = 472 = 4K7OHm
I looked for the values ​​online, I think they are correct, but all in all it shouldn't be a problem, because just find the same and weld them, the value will surely be the correct one.
I looked at a couple of scrap MBs, I think I remove them from a SKT462, they look the same size, I have to see if I find the values ​​I am looking for, from that MB I should also remove other things I need in other cards, for example the AGP slot for change it to an ASUS A7V333-X (because it burned in some PINs).

In the last few days I have looked for the missing SMDs of the BKi810, unfortunately I do not find the 76C and 18C resistors among the scrap boards, those marked 472 are very common and are present in all the boards, since I cannot find them, for the moment I do not I can perform the repair, so I should wait until I find the missing SMDs.
But the electrolytic capacitors have arrived, and these will allow me to repair some motherboards, the first of which is an HP Cognac REV. H-2, with intel i810E chipset, obviously there is integrated audio and video, and there are three PCI slots for expansion or addition of cards, overall it is a card with a fairly complete equipment, it lacks however the LAN, if necessary, a special PCI card can be added.
The card is in excellent condition, but it has various bulging capacitors, they are in the CPU and chipset area, they are of the YAGEO from 1500uF from 10V, being of an unknown brand and I guess of poor quality, I proceed to remove all 10, actually after removal, even the visibly good ones need to be replaced, presenting a capacity beyond tolerance, while the others are losing.
The removal and replacement work was not too complicated, I had some problems to free some holes, and also someone in the soldering, luckily everything seems to have gone well, but at the moment I can't tell, I have to wait for the board to start and wait for the BIOS screen to appear.
I searched and found a RAM and a CPU to do the boot test, for the RAM I have a 64MB PC133, the CPU is a Coppermine PIII 800/133/256, I used this because the card supports them, I could have used a Celeron but having several PIII, I used one of those, the last thing to do is put the heatsink and connect the plug to the CPU-FAN, at this point it will be ready to connect the power supply and start it.
This I think I will do tomorrow or in the next days, because I would have to work on other cards waiting to change the capacitors, the next I think will be an ATX Slot1 with PIII-500 from SuperMicro with i820 chipset and PC133 RAM (use an adapter), it had a shield locking problem, i hope due to some swollen capacitors, i will change them and see if i solve, otherwise i think it is adapter problem, which has a glued heatsink, and so i don't know what chip it is.

I fixed the ATX Super Micro card, i820 chipset plus MTH for PC133 ram, with Slot1 PIII 500 CPU, the video card is an AGP Intel i740 I think 8MB, the audio is integrated.

The problem he had is the PC freezing after a certain time from starting, I do not know if it was due to the swollen capacitors, but one of the two was KO, and therefore having replaced them will surely have solved a problem, which I do not know, that is if the block it was due to that capacitor.

I replaced two, as I said one was at a loss, but both had a bit high ESR, for the rest I could change others but I only changed the swollen ones, the others seem to be in good condition to the eye, of course it is possible that someone may not be okay, but this applies to everyone present, all being of unknown brand and probably of poor quality.

The replacement work was quite simple, because the holes were released without too much difficulty, for the replacement I used 1000uF 10V Nichicon, both the capacity and the voltage are the same, for the quality talk I think they are much better than the original NRSY , the dimensions were the same, and this did not create difficulties when replacing.

I have not tried the card, but I plan to do it in the next few days, along with others ready, including the HP Cognac and other similar MBs, others need some fairly simple work, but for now I want to fix some and then try them all together, after all I just have to start them and run the DOS from IDE-CF adapter.

Going back to the Super Micro card, and the chipset used, from what I have read is the worst motherboard chipset created by intel, in this case using an MTH adapter chip to use normal RAM, it has backtracked from the originals RIMM, probably for a matter of costs, but the result was bad for both speed and reliability, the chip has a Heatsink glued on it, maybe it was too hot, I would not want the PC to lock up because of that, eventually I should try to put a fan on it, as long as it is a temperature problem, and not a bug problem present in the MTH chip, I only have a PC with RIMM, a P4 423 2GHz with 4 RIMMs of 256MB each, to be an old P4 it is enough well, much better than those with PC133 DIMMs.

I change motherboard type, this time I have a Barebone PC board, it is a BIOSTAR M7NBA VER: 1.2, the board had a couple of visible problems, a missing SMD capacitor, and an electrolytic dented on top, not knowing which SMD to use I removed it and welded one at random (from a scrap MB), while for the electrolytic I put an identical used one but of a different brand.

At this point the card is ready to be tested, just add CPU RAM, the video card is integrated and there are two connectors on the back of the PC, as a heatsink you can use the normal one for socket 462, or having the one for socket 478 , at least it looks like that, then I don't know if it's the same or not.

I have never had Barebone PCs, but I have had very compact or very integrated motherboards in the past, I think you can install CPUs with FSB 333, the RAMs are DDR I don't know what type that is 266 333 400, I have to consult the manual to see if there are any. jumper out of place or missing, to try to start I will see among the various CPUs which one can be used, I think if an Athlon with a 256KB cache or perhaps a 512Kb BARTON is supported.

I have two other motherboards to try, one is HP Cognac i810E, the other is SuperMicro i820 with PIII 500 slot1, for Cognac I have some doubts about which PINs to merge to start the PC, it is not very clear why there are 3 pins instead of the usual 2, the i820 should be simpler, and maybe I have notes of how it was connected to the cabinet, but I don't think they are necessary.

In the meantime, I rearranged some motherboards, separating the broken ones but visually ok, the broken ones but repairable (change capacitors), and finally the ones I tried to repair and they don't start, sometimes over time I can get some of them to work, it depends on the problem but if there is a minimum sign of life it is possible to understand what the problem is, and if it does not require the replacement of the faulty component, sometimes the problem can be solved.

In a few days I'll have a batch of motherboards, three ASUS and one ASROCK.
Looking in detail these are cards from the mid-late 2000s, The ASRock is a socket 478 for Pentium CPUs up to Prescott, it has some capacitors to replace in the area near the CPU, the exact model is P4VT8 +, I have a working one that I repaired long ago, changing the same bulging capacitors.
A couple of ASUS sockets are 754 sockets, apparently they look fine, here I think it may be possible that at least one works, according to the vendor they have been put away for PC upgrades.
The other ASUS is AM2, and it has some swollen capacitors, hoping that the failure is just that, after the capacitor change it might work again, as card looks interesting, it seems to support more powerful CPUs, if I'm not mistaken until 125W, at the moment I don't have such a CPU, I have a Phenom X3 8650 in another PC, but if I'm not mistaken here could you even put a Phenom X6?
As soon as I can I will take back the various motherboards that I have already repaired, I will try to try them and I hope that the repairs have been successful.

The batch of motherboards shown previously arrived a couple of days ago, when I opened the package I had a pleasant surprise, the motherboards purchased were four, but those arrived are five (the fifth for free), the fifth card is a MSI MS-6741 SKT 754, apparently it seems ok so it is likely that it can work without having to unsolder any component, for the moment I don't have time to check if it works (later yes), so I concentrate on the other boards of the lot.
The ASRock 478 is identical to other cards I already have, but this is a REV. next, the 3300uF capacitors need to be replaced, and apart from a missing SMD in the back, it shouldn't be hard to fix it by swapping out broken and missing components.
The ASUS M3A AM2 also has capacitors to replace, but there are burnished areas in the mosfet area, a sign of considerable heating, if the problem was caused by the capacitors, replacing them should solve the problem and the board would work again.
The ASUS K8V-F 754, is apparently okay, the chipset is missing, and the back plate for the CPU heatsink connection, looking at the back the PCB has a damage due to the removal of the back plate with a screwdriver, fortunately the area damaged should not compromise the operation, being in a ground point, you have to do a test to see if it starts and a signal appears on the video.
Finally the ASUS K8N-E Deluxe 754, has only one swollen capacitor near the chipset, and I suspect that the card was not working for this reason, I replaced it with an identical one but of a different brand (Panasonic), I added CPU RAM and Plates for connecting the CPU heatsink, and I'm ready to boot, but at the moment I have to recover the heatsink with fan suitable for socket 754, the provisional CPU is a Sempron 2800 (1600MHz), the provisional RAM is a 128MB DDR400, later if it works I'll try something better to put in place of the provisionals.

I got to test one of the MBs where I had changed a couple of capacitors, it is the Supermicro Slot1 with Intel i820 chipset (chimney), before the replacement it was put away because it had a problem, it stopped working after a while, I thought it was due to two swollen capacitors, but I know that similar cards had defects in the adapter chip for the Pc100-133 ram, so it is not easy to understand exactly what the defect is.

By replacing the capacitors, assuming the others are OK, the board should work again, but if it has the same problem then either there are other capacitors to replace or the adapter chip is defective, so this is the basic idea about resolving the problem, then of course there could be more, we'll see.

I put the card on the bench by installing a bank of PC100 RAM and its VGA, an Intel i740 8MB, starting with no signs of life, I check the battery that appears to be low, I put a new one, and try to start again, still nothing , after trying various RAM I put a 128MB PC133 and the PC starts, I can enter the BIOS, but some screens are not accessible, the PC goes to sleep, so after various tests I change VGA, the last one is a SiS 305 from 32MB purchased not long ago.

I connect the usual CF with IDE adapter, but the PC needs the boot floppy, a sign that the adapter or card is probably not recognized, I connect the floppy reader and the PC can be booted from DOS, but it remains to understand why in the BIOS screens there is the problem of the PC falling asleep.

From what I might think, it looks like a partially faulty BIOS problem, the solution would be to try to rewrite or update it, and see what happens, some screens are not accessible, among many the standard CMOS Setup, and this may explain why you don't boot from IDE-CF, maybe you should try a traditional HD, I'll see if I find one available that can boot, but there would also be the option to plug in a CD-Rom and see if it boots from CD.

But at the moment I have not had time to do other tests, and above all I have not had the opportunity to try any diagnostic program, maybe it is possible that something anomalous or not working, I hope it is nothing welded and not easily replaceable, if instead it is it is something like eg RAM, it is quite easy to fix by finding a perfectly working one.

I come back here after a long time, unfortunately I had commitments that did not allow me to fix some cards.
Having some time today to devote myself to PCs, I tested an HP Cognac.
Honestly I did not understand if it is suitable to make the tualatin also work, I think not but who knows ???, currently there is a PIII 800EB, and with this I did a start test, unfortunately the pins I thought were needed for 'start, in reality they were those of the PWR-LED, but luckily thanks to the manual provided by my friend "Mercury", I was able to find the right PIN to start it, and it works !!!
In the next few days I will try to do some tests and some bench, for this I should connect an HD or the usual CF with adapter.

Today in my free time I worked on a couple of boards, the first a Siemens D1115 Slot1 i440ZX, unfortunately I can't start it, short-circuiting the two pins of the PWR-ON nothing happens, the power supply and the fans do not start, this despite the voltage of the + 5VSB is present, I guess there is something wrong, understanding where to look is not easy, since I do not know how that start circuit works, in the past I had made a bridge between the green wire of the power supply and the black wire , the card did not start, from what I understand the PWR-Good remains without voltage, even pressing the PWR-ON, while it should rise to about 5V, and allow the Motherboard to start.
In the PS-ON, on one of the pins I measured + 3.34V, the other obviously is the mass, so I would say that this is working, but if the PWR-Good does not go, I do not think it will be able to start, of course I could change some capacitors electrolytic, visually they are old but not swollen, obviously I would not want to change them at random, but I don't think those of the + 5VSB would need to be changed, I have to check if there is voltage at pin A14 of the PCI, or in other areas.
I remember that the post-card remains completely off, since the card does not start, I have no idea if it is possible to unlock it, I removed the CR2032 battery, in case it manages to reset any configuration errors.
I repaired the other motherboard, it is a K7MKLE SKT462, I changed the ten capacitors in the CPU area, plus another four smaller ones in the chipset and PCI slot area, at the moment I have not tried to start it, I would like to retrieve the manual and see how set jumpers and switches, I think I use a Duron CPU (maybe 1300) and a PC133 RAM, the video card is not necessary since it is integrated, I hope I have changed all the failed capacitors, but if it does not start, I will see if the others present in the RAM area are to be changed, even if visually they are in place, it must be said that they are of poor quality, and perhaps they should be changed for this reason.