Maybe this is becoming commonplace as these boards age? Another person is having an identical problem: ABIT KT7A 1.3 rev and Agp slot ( apparently ) not working...

Repo Man11 wrote on 2022-02-10, 05:36:

Maybe this is becoming commonplace as these boards age? Another person is having an identical problem: ABIT KT7A 1.3 rev and Agp slot ( apparently ) not working...

It seems identical person is having identical problem 😀 (Kaisersoze)

Falcosoft wrote on 2022-02-10, 08:27:

Repo Man11 wrote on 2022-02-10, 05:36:

Maybe this is becoming commonplace as these boards age? Another person is having an identical problem: ABIT KT7A 1.3 rev and Agp slot ( apparently ) not working...

It seems identical person is having identical problem 😀 (Kaisersoze)

😉.

Anyway guys, what a headache among those "electrical" issues...
the biggest problem here is that i personally haven't so much time and the righteous dedicated environment to fix my mobos 🙁.

Can you visually check all the pins inside the AGP slot? I had an issue with a DDR2 slot that had a broken pin, which I managed to workaround Successful repair of a broken DDR2 memory slot
Also consider cleaning with 99% isoprop just in case, there could be residue preventing a good electrical connection. On mine, the card has to be slightly downwards otherwise it doesn't make a good connection so consider trying a couple positions.

cde wrote on 2022-02-10, 09:02:

Can you visually check all the pins inside the AGP slot? I had an issue with a DDR2 slot that had a broken pin, which I managed to workaround Successful repair of a broken DDR2 memory slot
Also consider cleaning with 99% isoprop just in case, there could be residue preventing a good electrical connection. On mine, the card has to be slightly downwards otherwise it doesn't make a good connection so consider trying a couple positions.

Honestly i'm considering to try an agp with its own power connector. And finally switch out to a pci video card if the problem with the agp slot still gets unsolved.

EDIT: if i have to surrender i'd switch to an ASUS A7V8X-X: found a lots of them at low price on ebay, just i'd buy an ess solo 1 for dos sound...

Kaisersoze wrote on 2022-02-10, 08:52:

Anyway guys, what a headache among those "electrical" issues...
the biggest problem here is that i personally haven't so much time and the righteous dedicated environment to fix my mobos 🙁.

Like with vintage cars - there are living museums with constantly maintained working exhibits (often rented out as movie props, for wedding, driven at historical rallies and festivals) and there are museums with frozen in time viewing only mechanically totaled pieces.

Maybe its time to hang your boards on the wall in nice decorative cases? 😀

There is no going around this problem. Electronics age. While solid state parts tend to last really long time, capacitors, especially working in harsh modern SMPS environments, should be treated as perishables just like magnetic media is. You need to maintain and repair your stuff, either yourself (a lot of EEs in this hobby) or by paying someone else to do it.

Some updates guys,
tried a radeon 9000 agp...installed win xp and VOILA' i can get it working!

So what do i think? I think that either is a simple problem of incompatibility of my geforce4 ti 4600 towards the epox/abit i have ( probably the card is really faulty someway ) or it's more a matter of power draw ( suppose the radeon 9000 is more "gentle" ). Even if my psu shows this as it follows:

So my idea is to get and try either a geforce4 ti 4200 ( or a g3 ti 200 ) or any card with an own power connector and then let's look what i get...

Kaisersoze wrote on 2022-02-11, 11:07:

<snip>
So what do i think? I think that either is a simple problem of incompatibility of my geforce4 ti 4600 towards the epox/abit i have ( probably the card is really faulty someway ) or it's more a matter of power draw ( suppose the radeon 9000 is more "gentle" ). Even

I seriously doubt that.

Can we see some photos of the innards of your PSU please?

You've still not said what your +5 volt rail shows in your CMOS settings. You can also use Motherboard Monitor to check the voltage when in Windows, and it's actually more useful because you can watch it while under load. https://m.majorgeeks.com/files/details/mother … rd_monitor.html

mockingbird wrote on 2022-02-11, 14:40:

Can we see some photos of the innards of your PSU please?

Based on not seeing TUV, UL, CSA or anything similar on the label, I'm gonna guess stamped sheet aluminum heatsink, and a lot of empty space.

Kaisersoze wrote on 2022-02-11, 11:07:

Some updates guys, tried a radeon 9000 agp...installed win xp and VOILA' i can get it working! […]
Show full quote

Some updates guys,
tried a radeon 9000 agp...installed win xp and VOILA' i can get it working!

So what do i think? I think that either is a simple problem of incompatibility of my geforce4 ti 4600 towards the epox/abit i have ( probably the card is really faulty someway ) or it's more a matter of power draw ( suppose the radeon 9000 is more "gentle" ). Even if my psu shows this as it follows:

So my idea is to get and try either a geforce4 ti 4200 ( or a g3 ti 200 ) or any card with an own power connector and then let's look what i get...

I definitely agree with this PSU seeming very questionable regarding its build quality.

I just want to update here regarding SETMUL and the KT133A...

I tested this on my AZZA KT3-AV with the latest BIOS ("IS" from 2004 patched with BP, which reports that it added "AMDK7NOW! support".)

Then I proceeded to issue "SETMUL 5.5" which got stuck with a blinking cursor. This is not an XP-M I tested with (AXMD1500FQQ3B), just a "Mobile" Athlon, so I suppose that it still should have worked, but I can test this with my bona-fide Barton XP-M as well just to verify beyond a shadow of a doubt.

If anyone has success with SETMUL and a KT133A motherboard, please post your results here.

mockingbird wrote on 2022-02-16, 20:26:

If anyone has success with SETMUL and a KT133A motherboard, please post your results here.

I use a Thoroughbred B 1700+ in mine and SetMul does work, but only for disabling L1 cache.

Changing the multiplier via SetMul doesn't work, though I can do it just fine in the BIOS since the CPU is completely unlocked.

It's not supposed to work unless you've got a mobile or mobile modded Palomino, Tbred or Barton (and half the bartons and later Tbreds can no longer be mobile modded) most of the KTs work when all the ducks are lined up... however... there's a motherboard behaviour thing that can shoot you down with modded CPUs, in that it will try to boot at max mobile multi, which is 24 on the early moddable chips, which anything but a unicorn golden sample won't boot. So you either need an additional mod to tie it down to a mobile multi it will boot, or to rig some other workaround.

BitWrangler wrote on 2022-02-16, 23:06:

It's not supposed to work unless you've got a mobile or mobile modded Palomino, Tbred or Barton (and half the bartons and later Tbreds can no longer be mobile modded) most of the KTs work when all the ducks are lined up... however... there's a motherboard behaviour thing that can shoot you down with modded CPUs, in that it will try to boot at max mobile multi, which is 24 on the early moddable chips, which anything but a unicorn golden sample won't boot. So you either need an additional mod to tie it down to a mobile multi it will boot, or to rig some other workaround.

No, you're mixing two things here, multiplier unlocking and software multiplier changes passed through the chipset.

A desktop unlocked chip will never work with setmul's multiplier changes, and it probably won't even allow you to try because it detects the kind of chip you have installed beforehand.

What I was trying to convey was that the chip I tried this with (thoroughbred btw) was not an XP-M but a "Mobile Athlon"... And I don't even know that there's any difference between them. If we look at their spec, we see the following:

Mobile Athlon XP 1500+ 1300 MHz 256 KB 200 MT/s 13x 1.45 V 35 W AXMD1500FQQ3B
Athlon XP-M 1500+ 1300 MHz 256 KB 200 MT/s 13x 1.5 V 35 W AXMD1500DLQ3B

From what I can tell, mine is slightly better at 0.05 volts less than the XP-M, but these are exactly the same chips, supporting the same feature sets... I just used this because it was the only other mobile chip I had other than the one installed in my KT7A which I did not feel like removing.

It sounds like you've never heard of a mobile unlock, but whatever, I was responding to Joseph, who didn't say he had a mobile.

Edit: brief guide, close L5 #2 http://fab51.com/cpu/barton/athlon-e23.html#L5 may require fill of pit to insulate before conductive paint applied over top. Then maybe mess with L6 bridge to limit boot up speed/max multi.

BitWrangler wrote on 2022-02-17, 02:43:

It sounds like you've never heard of a mobile unlock, but whatever, I was responding to Joseph, who didn't say he had a mobile.

Edit: brief guide, close L5 #2 http://fab51.com/cpu/barton/athlon-e23.html#L5 may require fill of pit to insulate before conductive paint applied over top. Then maybe mess with L6 bridge to limit boot up speed/max multi.

Yessir, I'm aware of it. But it is not a 'mobile' unlock per se, it's just an 'unlock', and there's nothing mobile about it... Desktop chips prior to week 0338 or so I believe are unlocked by default.

Mobile chips past week 0338 are also locked, if I'm not mistaken.

mockingbird wrote on 2022-02-16, 20:26:

Then I proceeded to issue "SETMUL 5.5" which got stuck with a blinking cursor. This is not an XP-M I tested with (AXMD1500FQQ3B), just a "Mobile" Athlon, so I suppose that it still should have worked, but I can test this with my bona-fide Barton XP-M as well just to verify beyond a shadow of a doubt.

I had the same behaviour unfortunately (with an XP-M) 🙁

BitWrangler wrote on 2022-02-16, 23:06:

So you either need an additional mod to tie it down to a mobile multi it will boot, or to rig some other workaround.

Yes, I suspected as much. I don't think my CPU is of the mobile variety since I bought it new, in a physical store back in the day. Here's a picture in case it helps.

For gaming purposes, I'm fine with just being able to freely change the multiplier in the BIOS, since I use Throttle to slow things down even further for DOS stuff. I imagine modding the CPU and/or the socket might allow for adjusting the multiplier on the fly via SetMul, but I'm too lazy to bother with that since my use case doesn't require me to change it very often.

Good news guys,
i've changed the psu and now the geforce ti 4600 is back in action ✌️.
Obviously i checked it even after i installed the v2 sli and the awe 64 gold, but so far everything seems ok...Finally i'd say.