subnet_zero wrote on 2022-02-22, 12:55:

RaiderOfLostVoodoo wrote on 2022-02-22, 12:12:

Black ones are actually more valuable, because they're more rare.
What brands? Sony MPF920 by any chance? Could give ya beige plates in exchange. 😁

Black ones, really? From my point of view beige is the new black for old cases. 😉

Even if that is the case (no pun intended 😀 ), the beige/grey ones are all over the place but finding a black one is more difficult

subnet_zero wrote on 2022-02-22, 12:55:

Bought a Terratec 128i PCI sound card with box for 6€ including shipping. With the box and that cheap I could not resist to buy. It has a good DOS support as Phil explains here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e14dFZWi2eI

Strangely there are different versions of these cards with/without SB-Link-Header, Wavetable-Header and amplifier. But there's no version that has it all
See: ESS Solo 1 different versions

HanSolo wrote on 2022-02-22, 13:14:

Even if that is the case (no pun intended 😀 ), the beige/grey ones are all over the place but finding a black one is more difficult

Yes, exactly.
I have a few beige Sony MPF920, but only one black one. Need 2 more, but I won't pay 15€ for one.
I have more than 20 beige floppy drives but only a handfull black ones.
I also have 2 floppy drives in silver (Sony and Alps). These are even more rare than the black ones.

A few months ago I bought a lot of 30 untested floppy drives for 20€. Could restore 25 of them. 😁
They did just need some cleaning.
There was one Amiga drive between them, which sells for 50-100€. 🤣

RaiderOfLostVoodoo wrote on 2022-02-22, 12:12:

appiah4 wrote on 2022-02-22, 06:33:

I was running low on 3.5" FDDs so I grabbed 4 of them for 8 bucks. 2 beige, 2 black. Yeah, black 😒 But I guess I can replace the facplates with ones from dead floppy drives or paint them.

Black ones are actually more valuable, because they're more rare.
What brands? Sony MPF920 by any chance? Could give ya beige plates in exchange. 😁

Most likely Mitsumi or Alps 🙁

A few days ago my untested DFI K6XV3+/66's finally arrived.

Kept fresh nicely. -.- Even told that idiot to wrap them in paper.

Gave them a proper cleaning and tried to power them up.
Number 1 turns on, but no signs of life otherwise.
Number 2:

Now Hirsch and I both have 2 working ones and 1 broken one each. Gonna keep it as a spare part, in case mine breaks. They don't pop up that often. 8 on Ebay within a year. 3 of them broken. The 5th working one was recently auctioned off for 147€. 😮
EDIT: There was another one yesterday for 57€ which was snatched up immediately. Wasn't there 2 days ago.

RaiderOfLostVoodoo wrote on 2022-02-22, 13:23:

Yes, exactly. I have a few beige Sony MPF920, but only one black one. Need 2 more, but I won't pay 15€ for one. I have more than […]
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HanSolo wrote on 2022-02-22, 13:14:

Even if that is the case (no pun intended 😀 ), the beige/grey ones are all over the place but finding a black one is more difficult

Yes, exactly.
I have a few beige Sony MPF920, but only one black one. Need 2 more, but I won't pay 15€ for one.
I have more than 20 beige floppy drives but only a handfull black ones.
I also have 2 floppy drives in silver (Sony and Alps). These are even more rare than the black ones.

A few months ago I bought a lot of 30 untested floppy drives for 20€. Could restore 25 of them. 😁
They did just need some cleaning.
There was one Amiga drive between them, which sells for 50-100€. 🤣

Then I'm glad that I have no need for black or silver floppies atm. 😅 I only have three, 1 broken with a missing head, 1 missing the lid but working fine, 1 USB.

HanSolo wrote on 2022-02-22, 13:14:

subnet_zero wrote on 2022-02-22, 12:55:

Bought a Terratec 128i PCI sound card with box for 6€ including shipping. With the box and that cheap I could not resist to buy. It has a good DOS support as Phil explains here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e14dFZWi2eI

Strangely there are different versions of these cards with/without SB-Link-Header, Wavetable-Header and amplifier. But there's no version that has it all
See: ESS Solo 1 different versions

The one I bought is labelled as a TTSOLO1-SL V1.2, it has even more components missing: the amps. 🤨 It is like a combination of missing things from the TTSOLO1-S V1.1 and the TTSOLO1-NL V1.2. 😂
Thanks for the link to the thread, will post my pics there.

subnet_zero wrote on 2022-02-22, 14:40:

Then I'm glad that I have no need for black or silver floppies atm. 😅 I only have three, 1 broken with a missing head, 1 missing […]
Show full quote

RaiderOfLostVoodoo wrote on 2022-02-22, 13:23:

Yes, exactly. I have a few beige Sony MPF920, but only one black one. Need 2 more, but I won't pay 15€ for one. I have more than […]
Show full quote

HanSolo wrote on 2022-02-22, 13:14:

Even if that is the case (no pun intended 😀 ), the beige/grey ones are all over the place but finding a black one is more difficult

Yes, exactly.
I have a few beige Sony MPF920, but only one black one. Need 2 more, but I won't pay 15€ for one.
I have more than 20 beige floppy drives but only a handfull black ones.
I also have 2 floppy drives in silver (Sony and Alps). These are even more rare than the black ones.

A few months ago I bought a lot of 30 untested floppy drives for 20€. Could restore 25 of them. 😁
They did just need some cleaning.
There was one Amiga drive between them, which sells for 50-100€. 🤣

Then I'm glad that I have no need for black or silver floppies atm. 😅 I only have three, 1 broken with a missing head, 1 missing the lid but working fine, 1 USB.

HanSolo wrote on 2022-02-22, 13:14:

subnet_zero wrote on 2022-02-22, 12:55:

Bought a Terratec 128i PCI sound card with box for 6€ including shipping. With the box and that cheap I could not resist to buy. It has a good DOS support as Phil explains here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e14dFZWi2eI

Strangely there are different versions of these cards with/without SB-Link-Header, Wavetable-Header and amplifier. But there's no version that has it all
See: ESS Solo 1 different versions

The one I bought is labelled as a TTSOLO1-SL V1.2, it has even more components missing: the amps. 🤨 It is like a combination of missing things from the TTSOLO1-S V1.1 and the TTSOLO1-NL V1.2. 😂
Thanks for the link to the thread, will post my pics there.

I recently got 5 for 0.50€ each. Only one not working properly. Guy was happy to get back some space in attic.
If I win an auction I'm getting 10 more, tested, for like 0.60€ each.
We have GOTEK, but if you need to read floppy there are no alternatives.

I have got DAT305 386SX/40 board, nice but faulty. /-: Hope I will find the way how to revive that. Posted here with more details.
386sx motherboard - 10beeps, CMOS error - help needed
Maybe "recap" is an answer..(?)
Hope to see it posting one day...

I like those kind of boards.... on the pic though, about 1/4 of the way down the left row of pins on the CPU, is that a solder blob/debris or mashed together pins or something? Or just weird light trick.

RaiderOfLostVoodoo wrote on 2022-02-22, 14:20:

A few days ago my untested DFI K6XV3+/66's finally arrived. ... Number 2: IMG_6831.JPG ... […]
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A few days ago my untested DFI K6XV3+/66's finally arrived.
...
Number 2:
IMG_6831.JPG
...

Is this a real K6-2/200 you are using or just a downclocked one?
Would like to have a real and working K6-2/200 in my collection. The one I have has "450" written on it with some marker pen and of course has zero Ohms. Makes your voltage regulator glow in the dark 😉
Some idiot must have pushed it to the absolute limit somewhere back in time.

Glad at least one of the boards is working!

Nexxen wrote on 2022-02-22, 14:52:

I recently got 5 for 0.50€ each. Only one not working properly. Guy was happy to get back some space in attic.
If I win an auction I'm getting 10 more, tested, for like 0.60€ each.

Good price. Grab em while you still can.
3 years ago there were plenty of floppy drives for 1€ on Ebay. And now? A few for 1€ bid. No "buy now" for less than 5€. Supply is drying up. I would bet 100 bucks, that in 10 years we will have to pay absurd prices for 3.5 floppy drives, just like it's now with 5.25 drives.

Nexxen wrote on 2022-02-22, 14:52:

We have GOTEK, but if you need to read floppy there are no alternatives.

Yeah, what if you find floppy drives on a flea market and want to copy them to your USB stick?
Also: No retro rig is complete without that sweet floppy search sound during boot. 🤣
So why not use both? 😁 By the way, how do I decide what is A: and what is B:? Is this cable select?

ChrisK wrote on 2022-02-22, 16:21:

Is this a real K6-2/200 you are using or just a downclocked one?

Na. I wanted to go easy on the board for the beginning. But it can handle my K6-2/500 at top speed.

ChrisK wrote on 2022-02-22, 16:21:

Would like to have a real and working K6-2/200 in my collection. The one I have has "450" written on it with some marker pen and of course has zero Ohms. Makes your voltage regulator glow in the dark 😉
Some idiot must have pushed it to the absolute limit somewhere back in time.

K6-2 to the MOON! 🤣
You can remove the marker with isopropanol. Might take several appliances.

ChrisK wrote on 2022-02-22, 16:21:

Glad at least one of the boards is working!

Yeah, I'm glad too. If my first one should ever break I now have plenty of time to look for reasonable priced replacement, because I can use the other one in the meantime.

Permanent marker can be mostly removed by using a dry erase marker.

Then remove the leftover from the dry erase marker with whiteboard cleaner or isopropyl.

Works way better then trying to remove permanent marker with anything else known to man... Besides fire, heh.

cyclone3d wrote on 2022-02-22, 18:19:

Permanent marker can be mostly removed by using a dry erase marker.

Then remove the leftover from the dry erase marker with whiteboard cleaner or isopropyl.

Works way better then trying to remove permanent marker with anything else known to man... Besides fire, heh.

Do you think this will work with my Pure3D box to remove the “video cards” marker writing? I’ve read about the dry erase method before, but I am hesitant to try it out. The box paper has some gloss coating to it, but it doesn’t seem like a lot. Does that even matter? I don’t want to ruin the box any further than it already is.

Better leave it as is then ruin it even more...

Bought this interesting full size AT EISA 486 board 😁

Too bad it has some damage and probably doesn't work 🙁

I need to see if I have any other 486 board with Weitek socket... probably not 🙁

I guess February is CPU month, there's an E5430 in flight along with half a dozen K6-2+ 570s, then I just grabbed a pair of PentiumM socket P chips a 1.8 and a 1.83 dual core, which the first is for a 4:3 screen Acer Aspire that I love the ergonomics of, but has an unlovable 1.6 CeleronM in which has me chewing furniture, and the dual core was cheap enough that it's a "hail mary" to try that also/instead (Got similar system with 1.6 PentM overclocked to 2.0, and that might take either of them too) ... Then also grabbed two 400fsb s478 chips because I've got 2 SDRAM 400 bus systems that also have "chewing furniture" grade CPUs. 2.0 P4 and a 2.6 Celly... I know, celerunt, but it's gotta, GOTTA be better than a 1.5 willy. Those four were sub "burger" level pricing from a Canadian seller so should be here soonish with less shipping worries.

kixs wrote on 2022-02-22, 18:43:

Bought this interesting full size AT EISA 486 board :D […]
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Bought this interesting full size AT EISA 486 board 😁

Too bad it has some damage and probably doesn't work 🙁

I need to see if I have any other 486 board with Weitek socket... probably not 🙁

Nice find with the 4167. Highly sought after

Meatball wrote on 2022-02-22, 18:32:

cyclone3d wrote on 2022-02-22, 18:19:

Permanent marker can be mostly removed by using a dry erase marker.

Then remove the leftover from the dry erase marker with whiteboard cleaner or isopropyl.

Works way better then trying to remove permanent marker with anything else known to man... Besides fire, heh.

Do you think this will work with my Pure3D box to remove the “video cards” marker writing? I’ve read about the dry erase method before, but I am hesitant to try it out. The box paper has some gloss coating to it, but it doesn’t seem like a lot. Does that even matter? I don’t want to ruin the box any further than it already is.

IMO it won't come off completely, best case it will be pale grey, worst case a darker grey smudge all round and letters still visible.

If I were you I'd get some glossy cardboard that looks the same, scribble on it with a sharpie and try various methods... like isopropyl alcohol, brake fluid (might make oily stain) citric acid solution, eraser pens (bleach usually) tide/laundry pens, and probably rubbing isn't gonna be a very sound plan as it will just spread, until you've got a great deal of pigment off anyway. Try just dampening paper towel with IPA and blotting at it at first (On your test piece)

kixs wrote on 2022-02-22, 18:43:

Bought this interesting full size AT EISA 486 board :D […]
Show full quote

Bought this interesting full size AT EISA 486 board 😁

Too bad it has some damage and probably doesn't work 🙁

I need to see if I have any other 486 board with Weitek socket... probably not 🙁

The PAL chips look like they'll straighten up and what's cracked looks like a cache chip, hard to find, but not unique to board... so with the PALs straightened out, try booting and turning L2 off, see if it's a "goer" otherwise.

Thanks a lot to you (and kixs) for the input. I’ll just leave it alone. I’ll either make it worse or trade one ugly defect for a different one.

Pentium III 850/100/256 Slot 1 MISB

I bought this with the intention of upgrading a Slot 1 800MHz P3, but I have since changed my mind and I will keep this sealed. I think what changed my mind was looking at a Quake III benchmark and noticing a P3 677/133 pulls ahead of the 850/100 and a 733 beats it soundly. Better to keep this 850 as a historical piece and switch to another system if I need 4fps more (compared to an 800) that badly…heh…