VOGONS


First post, by muon

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Hello.

I have, or better, I had a Promise 2300+ VLB controller and last morning exploded. I took somes pictures ( two capacitors exploded):

20220326-174827.jpg

20220326-174848.jpg

20220326-175053.jpg

20220326-174857.jpg
20220326-174924.jpg
20220326-175051.jpg

If I unplug the VLB controller from the PC, the computer works properly.

Is it worth fixing it? If I change the capacitors will it work?

I took some pictures near the capacitors and I can see some letters, can anyone tell me the specs? (V and F).

Thanks in advanced

Reply 1 of 10, by weedeewee

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just two capacitors, remove, replace. It'll probably work fine after that.
reason it's not working now is that the blown caps are likely shorting the voltages rails.

ps. likely they were tantrum caps 😁

Right to repair is fundamental. You own it, you're allowed to fix it.
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Reply 2 of 10, by Solo761

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I would try to fix it, if that's the only damage it's easily fixable. And it's not like it's manufactured anymore so it's always good to repair it 😀.

I'd guess that were tantalum capacitors, they have a habit to go with a bang. Also in case if you install them with polarity reversed 😁.

As for specs, I'd guess 10uF 16V

Reply 5 of 10, by weedeewee

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muon, yes that should work fine. higher voltage rating is no problem.

Right to repair is fundamental. You own it, you're allowed to fix it.
How To Ask Questions The Smart Way
Do not ask Why !
https://www.vogonswiki.com/index.php/Serial_port

Reply 7 of 10, by weedeewee

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muon, only thing you have to pay attention to is, if the capacitors are too high, they might interfere with adjacent cards.

Right to repair is fundamental. You own it, you're allowed to fix it.
How To Ask Questions The Smart Way
Do not ask Why !
https://www.vogonswiki.com/index.php/Serial_port

Reply 8 of 10, by Solo761

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Just FYI, original capacitors were tantalum, not standard electrolytic ones.

It might work, but it might not, or it might be unstable. While both tantalum and electrolytic are both polarized, their electric characteristics are different so there might be issues.

Just googled a bit and found this:

Benefits of Tantalums vs Electrolytics:

- Tantalums can work at much higher frequencies.
- Tantalums have low ESLs measured in nanohenries.
- Tantalums have low ESRs.
- Tantalums have low leakage current.
- Tantalums pack lots of uf into a small package.
- Tantalums can last longer than electrolytics.

Problems with Tantalums:

- Don't tolerate high reverse voltages well.
- Need to be voltage overrated for safety.
- Very unforgiving. Explode instantly when voltage rating is exceeded.
- Don't sound as good for audio as the best electrolytics.
- More expensive than electrolytics.

How sure are you with regards to your power supply? Maybe it "pushed" a bit of higher voltage and tantalums went boom because of that?

As for voltage, technically higher voltage rating has effect on capacitance.
For example 16V 10uF capacitor has 10uF capacity at 16V, 50V 10uF also has 10uF capacity at 50V, but at 16V it might be 9 or 11 uF (don't remember if it goes higher or lower), but in practice that that can easily fall under regular capacity tolerance so in effect no problem. It might be an issue if you go waaaay up and use for example 200V, then there could be different ESR when compared to 16V. But bigger issue would be fitting it there as it would be significantly physically bigger 😀.

Reply 9 of 10, by Chadti99

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It must be about their time. I’ve had two of these controllers blow one or more of the tantalum caps in the past month.

I replaced the caps on the first card and all was well, just purchased new tantalum caps from Amazon of same capacity. Haven’t tried fixing the second but I’m sure it will be fine.

Scared the crap out of me the first time 🤣.

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