rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 17:43:

what you need is
-low ESR

Of course, low ESR is nice to have, but "need" is a bit of an overstatement.
I have been recapping boards since 2005. In the past 5 - 10 years or so, I have been using high quality and low ESR caps (just because I can).
However, at one of my old jobs in the 2005 - 2010 period, never did we use low ESR caps (and, overall, the caps we used were of average quality... at best). We were the type of company that mostly dealt with other companies (private or public), so we always knew how our repairs fared over time (since these were our clients). And, yeah, after recapping them, some of those boards continued to run in the harshest of conditions, 24/7, without any problems. In fact, I don't remember a single instance where a motherboard that I or my colleagues recapped died at a later date.

Now, I'm not an electronics engineer, I'm a software engineer, but my experience tells me that, if the cap does not get hot during normal operation, then you don't need lower ESR.
If ESR is an issue (like is usually the case with switching power supplies), the first sign of trouble is the fact that the capacitor will get hot (and even explode in a very short amount of time if there's too much ripple current that it can't handle).
If capacitors remain nice and cool, then lower ESR (although still nice to have, especially from good brands) is far from being a requirement.

And a short (very recent) story related to this:

A few weeks ago I was in my hometown and took my mother's car for an oil change, checking the brake system, etc. She specifically told me to go to a certain small(ish) auto repair shop, because she knew the owner.
Well, while being there, I ran into one of my friends and ex-colleagues, who is one of the technical contacts for this repair shop (employed by a different company), and he was doing some maintenance work for them (fixing & cleaning the printer from the accounting department, among other things). As it turns out, after talking to him, I realized that this auto repair shop actually had one of my old motherboards (an Asus CUBX).

I had almost forgotten about this, but my friend had contacted me in 2018 (knowing that I'm into retro computing), and asking me if by any chance I had a spare motherboard with ISA slots. I told him that I did have ~10 such boards (10... at that time, since then my insanity has ownly grown 😁). He further explained that he urgently needed such a motherboard to replace a dead motherboard that belonged to an "auto repair shop" which had a very old software solution for the brake test platform. All in all, the brake test app only ran on Win95 (maybe Win98, but it had never been tested) and used a proprietary ISA board. Every hour that the brake test platform was offline resulted in a very substantial money loss for the auto repair shop. So his only requirement was: the most stable motherboard that I was willing to give up (something with 440BX preferred, obviously), and at least one ISA slot. CPU speed was not particularly important.
At that point I had just received a working Asus CUBX in decent condition, I had tested it and it was very stable (but it did have some slightly bulged caps).
Four years ago, socket 370 boards were very easy to come by (sometimes for free ar almost for free), so I easily gave this one up (I was definitely not willing to give him a Slot 1 board 😜 ). Now, because having a stable and (hopefully) long-lasting motherboard was of utmost importance, I quickly did a full recap. Of course, I wasn't very willing to use any of my Panasonics / Nichicons / Rubycons (and didn't even have that many of those, anyway), so I used some cheaper Fujicon general purpose caps, since I had many of these. Hardly a "good brand", but I had used them for 'less important' recaps before without encountering any issues. After that, I sent him the board, threw in a 1 GHz Coppermine (which is still quite cheap), a 128 MB PC100 module that I had used for testing + a new Matrox G450, just to be on the safe side.

Fast forward to 2022: as you've probably guessed by now where I was going with this, my motherboard has been running for the past four years, almost 24/7, in one of the harshest conditions possible (dusty environment, hot/cold weather, humid air, etc), and they've confirmed that so far they've had no issues with it.

Now, one might be wondering why they continued to use such an old brake testing platform (I also had the same question myself), and they told me that the platform had originally been installed in 1996, together with other technical equipment, and the investment had been substantial - over $500k (which was a lot of money for a new & small neighborhood auto repair shop). Since then, the platform had worked flawlessly, they do have a very strict maintenance schedule for it, they replace all the required consumable parts, etc. Unfortunately, even though the manufacturer still offers spare hardware parts for the brake test platform itself, they never bothered to update the software for this particular model.

So, having said that, don't be afraid to use general purpose caps on (most) motherboards (especially if it's not a motherboard that you value in particular, but you still want to see it fixed), because they are totally fine as long as you have a stable platform after that and the caps themselves don't get hot.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-02, 10:13:

Of course, low ESR is nice to have, but "need" is a bit of an overstatement. I have been recapping boards since 2005. In the pas […]
Show full quote

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 17:43:

what you need is
-low ESR

Of course, low ESR is nice to have, but "need" is a bit of an overstatement.
I have been recapping boards since 2005. In the past 5 - 10 years or so, I have been using high quality and low ESR caps (just because I can).
However, at one of my old jobs in the 2005 - 2010 period, never did we use low ESR caps (and, overall, the caps we used were of average quality... at best). We were the type of company that mostly dealt with other companies (private or public), so we always knew how our repairs fared over time (since these were our clients). And, yeah, after recapping them, some of those boards continued to run in the harshest of conditions, 24/7, without any problems. In fact, I don't remember a single instance where a motherboard that I or my colleagues recapped died at a later date.

Now, I'm not an electronics engineer, I'm a software engineer, but my experience tells me that, if the cap does not get hot during normal operation, then you don't need lower ESR.
If ESR is an issue (like is usually the case with switching power supplies), the first sign of trouble is the fact that the capacitor will get hot (and even explode in a very short amount of time if there's too much ripple current that it can't handle).
If capacitors remain nice and cool, then lower ESR (although still nice to have, especially from good brands) is far from being a requirement.

And a short (very recent) story related to this:

A few weeks ago I was in my hometown and took my mother's car for an oil change, checking the brake system, etc. She specifically told me to go to a certain small(ish) auto repair shop, because she knew the owner.
Well, while being there, I ran into one of my friends and ex-colleagues, who is one of the technical contacts for this repair shop (employed by a different company), and he was doing some maintenance work for them (fixing & cleaning the printer from the accounting department, among other things). As it turns out, after talking to him, I realized that this auto repair shop actually had one of my old motherboards (an Asus CUBX).

I had almost forgotten about this, but my friend had contacted me in 2018 (knowing that I'm into retro computing), and asking me if by any chance I had a spare motherboard with ISA slots. I told him that I did have ~10 such boards (10... at that time, since then my insanity has ownly grown 😁). He further explained that he urgently needed such a motherboard to replace a dead motherboard that belonged to an "auto repair shop" which had a very old software solution for the brake test platform. All in all, the brake test app only ran on Win95 (maybe Win98, but it had never been tested) and used a proprietary ISA board. Every hour that the brake test platform was offline resulted in a very substantial money loss for the auto repair shop. So his only requirement was: the most stable motherboard that I was willing to give up (something with 440BX preferred, obviously), and at least one ISA slot. CPU speed was not particularly important.
At that point I had just received a working Asus CUBX in decent condition, I had tested it and it was very stable (but it did have some slightly bulged caps).
Four years ago, socket 370 boards were very easy to come by (sometimes for free ar almost for free), so I easily gave this one up (I was definitely not willing to give him a Slot 1 board 😜 ). Now, because having a stable and (hopefully) long-lasting motherboard was of utmost importance, I quickly did a full recap. Of course, I wasn't very willing to use any of my Panasonics / Nichicons / Rubycons (and didn't even have that many of those, anyway), so I used some cheaper Fujicon general purpose caps, since I had many of these. Hardly a "good brand", but I had used them for 'less important' recaps before without encountering any issues. After that, I sent him the board, threw in a 1 GHz Coppermine (which is still quite cheap), a 128 MB PC100 module that I had used for testing + a new Matrox G450, just to be on the safe side.

Fast forward to 2022: as you've probably guessed by now where I was going with this, my motherboard has been running for the past four years, almost 24/7, in one of the harshest conditions possible (dusty environment, hot/cold weather, humid air, etc), and they've confirmed that so far they've had no issues with it.

Now, one might be wondering why they continued to use such an old brake testing platform (I also had the same question myself), and they told me that the platform had originally been installed in 1996, together with other technical equipment, and the investment had been substantial - over $500k (which was a lot of money for a new & small neighborhood auto repair shop). Since then, the platform had worked flawlessly, they do have a very strict maintenance schedule for it, they replace all the required consumable parts, etc. Unfortunately, even though the manufacturer still offers spare hardware parts for the brake test platform itself, they never bothered to update the software for this particular model.

So, having said that, don't be afraid to use general purpose caps on (most) motherboards (especially if it's not a motherboard that you value in particular, but you still want to see it fixed), because they are totally fine as long as you have a stable platform and the caps themselves don't get hot.

Very nice history, thanks for share it.
I can understand what you mean about the software upgrade, i dont know if they have to deal with problems like "i have to do this in this way before do that another thing because it will not work"(more time, effort, stress etc) or have fewer features available due to older software(in some cases not being able to what the clients wants, less money inside the pocket), if that is not the case, the rule "do not change anything that has worked for you" is okey to me, If there is no real need to change and this product has been successful in the repair of thousands of cars, the action was successful.

My main problem, I started looking very recently, so i dont have a real in depth vision about the retro computers in my country, but from what I've seen it's pretty hard to get and ebay has high prices.
What I want to say, I believe that taking the best possible care of what I have is the best option, in this case is a good mobo, it deserve the best treatment.

One question, i read that solder between 40-60W are fine for motherboards, im going to buy another one, nothing expensive because i need this kind of job 1 time in 5 years.

I think low ESR is especially important for PSUs, at the mainboard, it doesn't matter all that much - but that's just my guess. I used to recap various cheaper brands (Elite, Samxon, Samwha or regular Nichicon), just what was at hand and it was always better than the bulging original capacitors on the board. Sure, they certainly don't last as long as high-end brand types, but I don't use these old machines every day for a lot of hours so it has to bother me.
It's interesting that Rocket202 has these capacitors on the board - I have the AT version (GA-5AA) and there are two kinds of capacitors used on it, all STONE brands, another low-cost manufacturer: http://led.ystone.com.tw/en/product-c79602/El … Capacitors.html

Ydee wrote on 2022-08-02, 11:57:

I think low ESR is especially important for PSUs, at the mainboard, it doesn't matter all that much - but that's just my guess. I used to recap various cheaper brands (Elite, Samxon, Samwha or regular Nichicon), just what was at hand and it was always better than the bulging original capacitors on the board. Sure, they certainly don't last as long as high-end brand types, but I don't use these old machines every day for a lot of hours so it has to bother me.
It's interesting that Rocket202 has these capacitors on the board - I have the AT version (GA-5AA) and there are two kinds of capacitors used on it, all STONE brands, another low-cost manufacturer: http://led.ystone.com.tw/en/product-c79602/El … Capacitors.html

Same crap capacitors, maybe is the same company "Choyo" with a new name hahaha.

I dont know about old hardware but i bought in last years 2 motherboards from gigabyte and in software they have a really poor quality. I bought in 2020 the mobo z390 aorus master (a top model), the lack of drivers and fix for intel vulnerabilities left a bad taste in my mouth, before i bought another one for my parent as a gift, that one has better software or just more updates.

Now Gigabyte is pointing to have the best board in every money step (no idea about quality components), this means, if you look at prices probably "no one" (or with high probability like 80%), youll not find a board like they offer for the same price, invented example: a 100€ board has only 6 phases for Vrm, you look at gigabyte's boards in the same range of price and you find that gigabyte has a 12 phase vrm for that board and no one or practically no one will offer you the same at that price and that makes you fall for their products, i dont recommend it.
This is the way they are competing with other brands but after you buy it you can have a lack of drivers/software support.
Going more forward, i changed that z390 for a 12gen intel socket, a cheap one from asus and just only the procedure to update the bios (in appearance at least) is really better, the asus one you made changed in bios at it will shut down after that change more times than the gigabyte one, asus takes more time to update bios (apparently gives me the sensation is more secure).
That z390 is not a bad board, dual bios, japaneses capacitors for the sound, DAC usb, bluetooth atenna etc, but they need to go a step forward in software to be a better company.

That z390 has solid capacitors, i dont know wich brand is.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 11:15:

Very nice history, thanks for share it. […]
Show full quote

Very nice history, thanks for share it.

My main problem, I started looking very recently, so i dont have a real in depth vision about the retro computers in my country, but from what I've seen it's pretty hard to get and ebay has high prices.
What I want to say, I believe that taking the best possible care of what I have is the best option, in this case is a good mobo, it deserve the best treatment.

One question, i read that solder between 40-60W are fine for motherboards, im going to buy another one, nothing expensive because i need this kind of job 1 time in 5 years.

Glad you liked my story. 😀
Regarding the Gigabyte GA-5AX, it is a nice motherboard, but not all are the same (and not all are as desirable).
Only a specific revision with some specific features is very sought-after (particularly, rev 5.2, with "G" revision North Bridge, 4 ns cache).

This doesn't mean that other GA-5AX revisions are bad. They are all solid boards and if it were mine, I would surely give it a nice Rubycon/Nichicon/Panasonic low-ESR treatment. 😀

Low ESR is required in switching power supplies (like the one generating cpu Vcore right on the motherboard). Capacitor with high ESR not only will die quicker due to heating, but will fail to smooth generated ripple from the start. Failed capacitors often have nominal capacitance, but high ESR - replacing those with ordinary caps is clearly useless.

You dont need or want low esr caps everywhere. For example they can cause ringing or instability when used in feedback loops
https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva115a/slva115a.pdf (ESR, Stability, and the LDO Regulator)

is the coil nearby? need low esr replacement
original cap has gold print on it (no idea why, but most manufacturers used gold to mark lowesr caps)? need low esr replacement

As to why it anecdotally worked on the CUBX? maybe combination of 20W cpu and 34! capacitors on Vcore with 6 of those being big electrolytics
https://www.xwfix.com/asus-motherboard-cubx-1-02-boardview/

One question guys, im looking for a new solder, amazon has some 60W regulated (including extractor etc), do you think this will work?.

From what i read, its needed a solder 40w-60w depends the board.

Im not going to use it again probably in the next 4 years.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-02, 12:35:

Glad you liked my story. :-) Regarding the Gigabyte GA-5AX, it is a nice motherboard, but not all are the same (and not all are […]
Show full quote

Glad you liked my story. 😀
Regarding the Gigabyte GA-5AX, it is a nice motherboard, but not all are the same (and not all are as desirable).
Only a specific revision with some specific features is very sought-after (particularly, rev 5.2, with "G" revision North Bridge, 4 ns cache).

This doesn't mean that other GA-5AX revisions are bad. They are all solid boards and if it were mine, I would surely give it a nice Rubycon/Nichicon/Panasonic low-ESR treatment. 😀

Mine is the 4.1 rev, the only problem i found is the voodoo, aparently is very hot even in the desktop to me is not normal, i read about a problem related to the AGP and aparently there is a fix for this soldering a cable but i don't know anything else, this is the next step to fix, and it will be ready to go.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 12:56:

Low ESR is required in switching power supplies (like the one generating cpu Vcore right on the motherboard). Capacitor with hig […]
Show full quote

Low ESR is required in switching power supplies (like the one generating cpu Vcore right on the motherboard). Capacitor with high ESR not only will die quicker due to heating, but will fail to smooth generated ripple from the start. Failed capacitors often have nominal capacitance, but high ESR - replacing those with ordinary caps is clearly useless.

You dont need or want low esr caps everywhere. For example they can cause ringing or instability when used in feedback loops
https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva115a/slva115a.pdf (ESR, Stability, and the LDO Regulator)

is the coil nearby? need low esr replacement
original cap has gold print on it (no idea why, but most manufacturers used gold to mark lowesr caps)? need low esr replacement

As to why it anecdotally worked on the CUBX? maybe combination of 20W cpu and 34! capacitors on Vcore with 6 of those being big electrolytics
https://www.xwfix.com/asus-motherboard-cubx-1-02-boardview/

Nice point about the coil, this board has some capacitors around 2 coils in the board.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 12:56:

As to why it anecdotally worked on the CUBX? maybe combination of 20W cpu and 34! capacitors on Vcore with 6 of those being big electrolytics

"why it worked on the CUBX"? I consider myself pretty good at explaining things, but apparently I wasn't very clear this time.
Let me try that again: it has worked for me and my old colleagues on hundreds of motherboards between 2005 and 2010, including for many Athlon XP & even Pentium 4 motherboards which died a horrible death during the capacitor plague.
It's actually funny when you think about it: many of the motherboards during that time were cheaply built, using VERY cheap capacitor brands, with bad electrolyte, that were nowhere near to being actually low ESR (and that was straight from the factory 😁 ). So, no, recapping them with non-ESR/general purpose caps that at least had good (better) electrolyte would certainly not have resulted in an explosion (as long as the caps remained cool during operation!).

Again, if the capacitors don't get hot (something that can be easily checked post-recapping), you DON'T 'need' them to be low-ESR and nothing will fail, because this is the FIRST and most important sign that you are using non low-ESR caps even though you should ABSOLUTELY be using low-ESR. Everything else is mostly urban legends with #lowESReverything. Of course, if you want to keep believing otherwise, you are certainly free to do so.

Again, I also (mostly) use low-ESR quality caps nowadays, just because I can and I want to give rare boards a nice treatment. But I do so being perfectly aware that the vast majority would work perfectly fine for many years with any decent general purpose cap.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:09:

One question guys, im looking for a new solder, amazon has some 60W

good

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:09:

regulated

not good, you want temperature controller, not regulated. regulated is te code word for a triac power regulation

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:09:

(including extractor etc)

what kind of extractor? you mean a fan?

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:09:

From what i read, its needed a solder 40w-60w depends the board.

no, you need >80W if using only soldering iron, less if you preheat the board with hotair/paint stripper/hair drier

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:09:

Im not going to use it again probably in the next 4 years.

dont buy any gear, find a radio amateur/hackerspace in the neighborhood, ask for help

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:09:

the only problem i found is the voodoo, aparently is very hot even in the desktop to me is not normal

its all good as long as you arent a silicon based life form 😀 just like you dont go out of your way to cool car engine because its too hot to the touch 😀 If its not crashing its fine.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:15:

So, no, recapping them with non-ESR/general purpose caps that at least had good (better) electrolyte would certainly not have resulted in an explosion (as long as the caps remained cool during operation!).

who said anything about explosions? 😀 they will simply dry quicker. electrolytics with high esr are unable to smooth the ripple generated by switching power buck converters. You get unstable power that might lead to unstable computer.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:15:

Everything else is mostly urban legends with #lowESReverything. Of course, if you want to keep believing otherwise, you are certainly free to do so.

I rather believe my EE education thank you 😀 Its not the matter of urban legends, but physics. Are you fine with Vcore beating 0.5V above the set value because of shit smoothing? then nock yourself out https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva630a/slva630a.pdf

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:15:

Again, I also (mostly) use low-ESR quality caps nowadays, just because I can and I want to give rare boards a nice treatment. But I do so being perfectly aware that the vast majority would work perfectly fine for many years with any decent general purpose cap.

For many years in retro hobbyist collection being turned on once per week/month 😀
Are you fine with Vcore beating 0.5V above the set value because of shit smoothing? then knock yourself out
https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva630a/slva630a.pdf

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:22:

who said anything about explosions? 😀 they will simply dry quicker. electrolytics with high esr are unable to smooth the ripple generated by switching power buck converters. You get unstable power that might lead to unstable computer.

Try and recap a PSU with general purpose caps, and see what happens. 😀 Yes, caps will actually go kaboom after first getting VERY hot (which is the only clear sign that low or ultra low ESR caps should be used).
Regarding unstable power, I challenge you to show this behavior on an actual oscilloscope, after having recapped the board with general purpose caps. I'm asking because I always did this check, and you will see absolutely nothing.
Also, yes, working in a company that existed since 1990, we were absolutely crazy to recap these boards with general purpose caps only to have our clients' IT departments complaining about their users experiencing instability. #MakesSense
You would think that after the first client started complaining about instability, we would understand that what we were doing was wrong, that we needed low-ESR caps, but no... we were THAT stupid and continued to use the same general purpose caps, so that our clients would call 100 times a day to complain. #AgainMakesSense 😉

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:22:

I rather believe my EE education thank you 😀 Its not the matter of urban legends, but physics. Are you fine with Vcore beating 0.5V above the set value because of shit smoothing? then nock yourself out https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva630a/slva630a.pdf

Oh, the electronics degree card, I was wondering when that would show up. 😀
Thank you, but I will keep believing my own *practical* experience, after having actually worked hands-on in a service center for 7 years.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:22:

good […]
Show full quote

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:09:

One question guys, im looking for a new solder, amazon has some 60W

good

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:09:

regulated

not good, you want temperature controller, not regulated. regulated is te code word for a triac power regulation

Okey, if i understand correctly, you mean with a solder regulated i will control the energy, not the temperature.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:22:

what kind of extractor? you mean a fan?

Lead extractor for desoldering the caps, i dont know how you call it.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:22:

no, you need >80W if using only soldering iron, less if you preheat the board with hotair/paint stripper/hair drier

Okey, i see one from amazon 80W with temperature regulation (very cheap), temperature can be regulated from 180 up to 520. i dont really like that 180 degrees to start, i know the fusion point of the lead is 180-230.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:22:

dont buy any gear, find a radio amateur/hackerspace in the neighborhood, ask for help

Dont worry, im going to practice first following your tip, i dont think ill have problems, in the case I see that I am not capable, I will ask for help.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 13:22:

its all good as long as you arent a silicon based life form 😀 just like you dont go out of your way to cool car engine because its too hot to the touch 😀 If its not crashing its fine.

I understand what you mean, when i saw that heat, I have searched for information and it seems that these gigabyte boards (except revision 5.2) have that problem.

If I had searched for information and seen that it is something normal in these cards (I have already seen some comments that are hot graphics), I would leave it be, but having searched and found that information, I am going to make sure first, maybe is not true but i want to clarify first, i'll open a threat in graphics card section after fix this caps.

Thanks again.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-02, 14:09:

Try and recap a PSU with general purpose caps, and see what happens. 😀 Yes, caps will actually go kaboom after first getting VERY hot (which is the only clear sign that low or ultra low ESR caps should be used).

The only difference here is power output - psu is hundreds of watts while CPU vcore is up to 100W for vintage stuff. This changes timescale, not the outcome (drying leading to failure). For a kaboom you need to blow a hole in dielectric resulting in internal arcing and gas buildup, reversing polarity will do that.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-02, 14:09:

Regarding unstable power, I challenge you to show this behavior on an actual oscilloscope, after having recapped the board with general purpose caps. I'm asking because I always did this check, and you will see absolutely nothing.

but I just did 😀 that pdf I linked shows effect of ESR on buck converter

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 17:43:

White line on the Can signifies ground. On PCB you either have white marked ground, or explicitly marked + as the opposite of ground. White line on Can goes to white on PCB.

I had not seen this.

This board caps has "negative" in gold colour and the board has + and the opposite in the board (what you call ground) like drawn lines in that space.

Thanks for that tip i know if i see a white line on the caps is what i call "negative", the opposite to +.

Tomorrow caps are here (pretty fast, 24hours), im going to order a 90w solder i've seen and tin with lead (im going to solder outside my house) because i want a easy job now and in a future if i need to desolder.

Im going to practice tomorrow and then solder the caps, ill tell you guys what ressult i had.

Thank you for the help, appreciate it a lot.

Negative pole is on the capacitors you have on the board, in that gold band (or white, depending on the type of capacitor). On the board, the position for this pole is usually a white or hatched semicircle. Your positive pole is marked with a small +.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-02, 15:52:

Ydee wrote on 2022-08-03, 11:10:

Negative pole is on the capacitors you have on the board, in that gold band (or white, depending on the type of capacitor). On the board, the position for this pole is usually a white or hatched semicircle. Your positive pole is marked with a small +.

I think i blown in some way the capacitor's pads.

Yesterday some of them the solder stays on top like a ball without grabbing to the board, probably due to too much heat.
after change like 7 of them i tested it and its working, i think if it is broken don't boot motherboard.

Some pads are really small, i saw one of them letting off smoke like burnt or whatever, I don't know if this is normal or if the pads are degraded because from the beginning this one seemed that the tin had a hard time holding on, very small pad like degraded or whatever with a very little amount of lead on it, so difficult to work with it from the start.
I assume the pads are on the top of the board,not inside the PCB (that circles on the top).

Anyway im going to replace all the rest with less heat.

EDIT:

Are these traces? (the gold big one around the capacitors), if they are i blown the board, I know it sounds stupid but I just realized right now about it, far as I know I didnt hit the board with the tip, it may have been from the heat or that I did not realize touching with tin but as far as I know i didnt hit the plate.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 09:19:

Are these traces? (the gold big one around the capacitors), if they are i blown the board, I know it sounds stupid but I just realized right now about it, far as I know I didnt hit the board with the tip, it may have been from the heat or that I did not realize touching with tin but as far as I know i didnt hit the plate.

Not sure what you mean by "traces", but, yes, those are connected to the ground plane. You should check for continuity, to make sure that the capacitor still has a connection to the ground.

However, you really should not be doing this... you'll either further damage the board aesthetically (which you've already done), or you'll end up damaging it completely. 🙁
Search for a service center/computer shop, they could easily replace all the caps for you and I'm sure the cost would be negligible.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-04, 11:38:

Not sure what you mean by "traces", but, yes, those are connected to the ground plane. You should check for continuity, to make […]
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Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 09:19:

Are these traces? (the gold big one around the capacitors), if they are i blown the board, I know it sounds stupid but I just realized right now about it, far as I know I didnt hit the board with the tip, it may have been from the heat or that I did not realize touching with tin but as far as I know i didnt hit the plate.

Not sure what you mean by "traces", but, yes, those are connected to the ground plane. You should check for continuity, to make sure that the capacitor still has a connection to the ground.

However, you really should not be doing this... you'll either further damage the board aesthetically (which you've already done), or you'll end up damaging it completely. 🙁
Search for a service center/computer shop, they could easily replace all the caps for you and I'm sure the cost would be negligible.

Are you sure this is ground planes?, some of them dosnt have anything, i I have verified that they fly with the heat, I have added tin to the solder point so that they dissolve better, and only the heat of the tin makes them disappear which made me think that they are simply points to verify by gigabyte that the board was not touched, like a "seal", in case that is ground point, to fix it what is need, solder a cable to another ground point?

The dots you are showing are "vias". These are interconnects between different layers of the board. These for example take the mentioned ground plane to another layer.

DerBaum wrote on 2022-08-04, 13:04:

The dots you are showing are "vias". These are interconnects between different layers of the board. These for example take the mentioned ground plane to another layer.

Thanks for the help, i dont refer that dots, the square in the second photo is just to show what i called "that golden big trace".

The square is just a reference to show if that is certainly ground or not.

In case that is ground they can be grounded by another point of the motherboard?, or it has to be obligatorily connected to that track next to the condenser? (repair the track)

Here you have picture to help you understand the composition of multilayer PCBs. The holes tend to be metalplated and connected to other layers inside the PCB, making it possible to stack several independent electrical schematics on top of each other to create isolated and interconnected circuits.