Wowsers.

I cleaned the corrosion off of my BioStar 1333/40 386 board since the batteries leaked and luckily, everything else in intact and looks better than before, but not 100% all the way yet.

Can I replace those tag tantalums with modern electrolytics or should I stick with tantalums?

kingcake wrote on 2022-09-12, 02:55:

Can I replace those tag tantalums with modern electrolytics or should I stick with tantalums?

I would replace with equal Tants but you could go with Electrolytics if you already have them but if you have to order them with stick with identical replacements.
And replace them all, if one or two go pop then the rest will follow....just my opinion

I read the BIOS from the BioStar 1333/40PME-CH board in case I need to make a new ROM in the future.

I tested this trash picked 8088 XT Turbo. I was surprised it was a NEC V20... Probably a Juko ST motherboard. Worked first time! Installed Trident TVGA, XT IDE and Vibra 16. Very happy with it being such a painless resurrection!

I got the BioStar 1333/40PME-CH cleaned up from the battery corrosion and it lives, plus the 33MHz segment display is working after I soldered a wire to the two solder joints that a trace would connect to that had gone bad.

The PCS desktop is finally repaired and working. Next stop: EIDE controller with a sound card and the Kalok drive will get archived to an IDE HDD.

Decided to start getting my HP 9000 and Sun SparcStation 5's up and running and start looking to acquiring an SGI setup hopefully in time to apply to be a exhibitor at VCF East in 2023.

Started to do some more recordings of the Pianobox USB GM Module. Recording Rise Of The Triad sound track which I plan to upload to Youtube at some point.

Here's one of the tracks recorded.

Tested a Zip 100 drive.
Halfway copying files it would crash W98/2K/Xp and crash the drive on W7/10.

Tested with TIP (trouble in paradise utility that tests the disks) and it would start displaying "error seeking head", probably meaning the head is busted on one side.
Disks retested in another drive were actually good and had very few issues.

Seller sold it as "tested", when actually it was just connected and a disk inserted.

Lately I had very bad luck with Zip drives, only two did actually work 100%, one Jaz is good.
REV I skipped one opportunity as the unit had visible dirt inside (come on!).

Nexxen wrote on 2022-09-12, 20:49:

Tested a Zip 100 drive. Halfway copying files it would crash W98/2K/Xp and crash the drive on W7/10. […]
Show full quote

Tested a Zip 100 drive.
Halfway copying files it would crash W98/2K/Xp and crash the drive on W7/10.

Tested with TIP (trouble in paradise utility that tests the disks) and it would start displaying "error seeking head", probably meaning the head is busted on one side.
Disks retested in another drive were actually good and had very few issues.

Seller sold it as "tested", when actually it was just connected and a disk inserted.

Lately I had very bad luck with Zip drives, only two did actually work 100%, one Jaz is good.
REV I skipped one opportunity as the unit had visible dirt inside (come on!).

was it an internal or one of the externals?

Veeb0rg wrote on 2022-09-12, 22:53:

Nexxen wrote on 2022-09-12, 20:49:

Tested a Zip 100 drive. Halfway copying files it would crash W98/2K/Xp and crash the drive on W7/10. […]
Show full quote

Tested a Zip 100 drive.
Halfway copying files it would crash W98/2K/Xp and crash the drive on W7/10.

Tested with TIP (trouble in paradise utility that tests the disks) and it would start displaying "error seeking head", probably meaning the head is busted on one side.
Disks retested in another drive were actually good and had very few issues.

Seller sold it as "tested", when actually it was just connected and a disk inserted.

Lately I had very bad luck with Zip drives, only two did actually work 100%, one Jaz is good.
REV I skipped one opportunity as the unit had visible dirt inside (come on!).

was it an internal or one of the externals?

USB, looks like a normal floppy in a cheap plastic case.
If you mean the REV, a pic with open lid. I heard a voice "hmmm lemon pledge".

Today, quirky but replace my old washing machine by a new.
And my only criterion of selection was finally the LED display that reminds me of my childhood (black + orange) ;p
I'm so happy in 2022 to see this kind of display model, I knew it was the one!
I know you understand me 🤣

Romain wrote on 2022-09-12, 23:30:

Today, quirky but replace my old washing machine by a new. And my only criterion of selection was finally the LED display that r […]
Show full quote

Today, quirky but replace my old washing machine by a new.
And my only criterion of selection was finally the LED display that reminds me of my childhood (black + orange) ;p
I'm so happy in 2022 to see this kind of display model, I knew it was the one!
I know you understand me 🤣

Very cool. Definite mainframe vibes.

I did my first FSB overclock on my Soyo SY-6BB system today. I picked up a Celeron 366 (SL36C) with plans to overclock from 5.5x66 = 366 MHz to 5.5x100 = 550MHz. This was apparently a very popular and easy to obtain overclock back in the day. However, mine topped out at 83 MHz FSB. 🙁 Seems fine in the BIOS and Plop at 100 MHz, but Windows hangs or complains of missing DLLs. Oh well, maybe a different adapter or stepping would work better. In the end, it was a fun $10 project.

Some photos:

CPU-Z Scores

I wonder how common it was back in the day to get 550 on that. I would have guessed it's the exact same core as a 300A that they just sold at a different price point, so 450 without jacking up the voltage and maybe higher if you cook it a little.

Yup, if possible with your motherboard, adjust the voltage to 2.1/2.3v to have a stable front side bus 100 Mhz frequency with this cheap lovely CPU.
Below 2.1v, it's not stable.

I fixed up the Aztech Sound Galaxy NX Pro non-16 that had 2 broken off mounting screws for the gamepad/joystick and replaced them with the ones from a dead video card. I also re-bent the bracket to make it more straight and not crooked.

Romain wrote on 2022-09-13, 06:50:

Yup, if possible with your motherboard, adjust the voltage to 2.1/2.3v to have a stable front side bus 100 Mhz frequency with this cheap lovely CPU.
Below 2.1v, it's not stable.

Good advice, thanks! I just checked and it's pulling 2.03v in the BIOS, that's probably the issue. Unfortunately no way to adjust voltage in the BIOS or on this slotket, but I'm on the lookout for another slotket anyways, so I'll give it a try when I have one that I can configure Vcore on. :)

I made a stepless speed controller for my 486.
From 16MHz to 133Mhz just by turning a knob.

Installed Quake III with all maps, it runs great on the VV as expected... Will see how games will work once, i freeze the card remove the stock coolers, and install Titan copper coolers. And then will try max OC of the card, so far it is stable at 180MHz, will try 190 and 200MHz to see how far the card can go. But anyway i dont think i will use the card on 200Mhz, even if it can, as i dont want to brake one of the best collector`s parts, so 190MHz will be nice, but to change the coolers ofc.. I wonder other ppl that did replace the stock coolers or Voodoo V, how much did specially the Titan Coolers improve the cooling of the card. I think optimal cooling will be Zalman VF700, but i have only 1, so yeah i need second one in order to cool the second chip too.