Where do you guys get your pcb's made? I want to make one of these to use on my bench test setup.

Jlcpcb

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-09-11, 01:57:

Jlcpcb

Thanks, Just placed my order for 5 of the v.06 board.

There is a revised 0.6 did you see that?

Btw, 0.8 added more LEDs and amperage is still good even if you didn’t have interest in fan headers or 3.3v so it will serve you well also 😀

Though I am still waiting on my parts that I ordered way back during the first version I modded. (I still haven’t been able to make one because of backordered parts)

Yeah, the high amperage one with the redundant trace removed?

It does look like the AT connectors are on backorder. I'm looking up the crimps and housings. I'm gonna make one with crimped on plug and short wires. Will also solve the old AT pin vs new AT square pin problem as well hopefully.

Mouser order got here today, PCB's are in route due next thursday!

Mine still hasn’t shipped, need to call them 🤣. It’s been what like 6 months? Lol

They arrived yesterday, 3 days early and they sent 6 boards instead of the 5 I ordered.

They sometimes send more if there was room on the big pcb that they make all at the same time and cut into smaller pcbs along with what I assume are other orders.

I called mouser earlier and canceled my order.

Wiretap, can you update the mouser project for the added LEDs and maybe with different alternate plugs that might be in stock?

I tried asking mouser to do it on my order, but no dice. Order never came in..

I’m thinking that old AT psu plugs may be the only option… thoughts? Is this what you plan on doing veeborg?

It is sort of a pointless endevor to try to keep up with what is in stock at the moment. With the global shortages, I could update it right now, and tomorrow it could be out of stock again.

Molex 09-48-2060 and 09-48-2061 may be candidates for the AT side connector. I don't have time to go through the datasheets/measurements right now though. Everything else on the mouser BOM shows in stock. The 09-48-1064 shows back in stock next month.

This is awesome. I'm happy to pay time/materials for a completely assembled unit or two, it's those darn surface-mount components that will get me for sure. (plus lack of time..)

So if that makes sense to someone and helps you offset cost by ordering in greater qty..lemme know. Incredibly awesome to see yet another brilliant retro computing project come to life.

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-09-20, 19:30:

They sometimes send more if there was room on the big pcb that they make all at the same time and cut into smaller pcbs along wi […]
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They sometimes send more if there was room on the big pcb that they make all at the same time and cut into smaller pcbs along with what I assume are other orders.

I called mouser earlier and canceled my order.

Wiretap, can you update the mouser project for the added LEDs and maybe with different alternate plugs that might be in stock?

I tried asking mouser to do it on my order, but no dice. Order never came in..

I’m thinking that old AT psu plugs may be the only option… thoughts? Is this what you plan on doing veeborg?

I bought the ones that are for crimping onto wires like a normal AT psu would have. I'm gonna run short wires to the pcb. This also has the advantage of working with the older flat style pin power connector.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-90331-1003 and these pins https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-08-50-0106

Almost done. Smoke tested and everything seems to work without releasing the smoke. After I get the AT power plugs attached it will get cleaned to remove the flux. First time soldering such tiny SMD stuff, good practice though.

update:

So I had it on the psu letting it run and then the PSU just shut off. The 2.2uf Cap died, I removed it and its back to running. I'll have to order some more parts I guess. Would it be OK to use this with out that cap in place till the replacement gets here?

I’d wait for the cap any chance you had it in backwards? Did I mark it as backwards on the silk? Edit: no silk and your install looks right.. defective cap I guess?

So you will glue the plugs down?

I think I know what happened, reverse the location of the caps. Top to bottom bottom to top.

Edit: went back and added notes that cap position is reversed. Sorry about that.

I have had the same polarity issue on mine. After running for a while, the c1 capacitor smokes, which is odd, since I verified that the pads next to the edge of the PCB are grounded.

I’m using PCB v0.4, as previously mentioned. Sorry it took me so long to actually test! The adapters work just fine otherwise.

Interestingly, the 3d render that you included with the archive, @wiretap, shows the SMD caps in reverse polarity from how I installed them. That doesn’t make sense, though, as the stripe on SMD tantalums indicates positive:

And how I soldered them:

- Alex

Okay…. What the heck is going on…

That board is before their location was flipped.

Perhaps wiretap can chime in with a fresh set of eyes.

Don't know why it doesn't make sense. If you install a capacitor backwards, it will smoke. They are on a negative voltage rail. Ground is more positive than a negative value. 😉

So is the c1 c2 placment reversal not causing a issue here? It’s actually the people building them putting them in backwards only?

I mean of course it makes sense, another blowing up capacitor just made me go wtf is happening. Needed a sanity check.

If I recall when looking up the specs of these caps -5v and -12v was all within the ratings of BOTH caps. So being in the wrong spots shouldn’t have caused a failure. So what wiretap says about them being backwards makes sense.

I can upload a corrected latest version for C1 C2 positions in about a week if I am reminded.

Are the markings for polarity correct on the latest version?

Sphere478 wrote on 2022-11-05, 14:34:

So is the c1 c2 placment reversal not causing a issue here? It’s actually the people building them putting them in backwards only?

Sounds like it. I can see that happening when orienting the capacitor based on its markings and ground, because usually ground is the most negative end, but not here (-5v). I've done that mistake myself, on another project.