Reply 60 of 81, by oso2k
More progress on my OLED Turbo Display.
More progress on my OLED Turbo Display.
oso2k wrote on 2022-10-01, 07:42:Veeb0rg wrote on 2022-10-01, 06:05:Where does the board sit inside this thing?
For now there's standoffs. You could drill out the shell to mATX or miniITX or something else. Then you could use regular PC standoffs.
I mean where physically.. top bottom side?
oso2k wrote on 2022-09-30, 22:22:So I'm running out of PLA. A 1kg spool of Inland Bone White is not quite enough to print all 3 pieces. I'm going to have to test the Pause/Resume feature of my Guide II until the new spool I ordered comes in tomorrow.
how close is the bone white compared to an actual vintage case color wise? I'm looking for something to print blank drive bay covers with.
The case is missing shielding for electromatic compatibility.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_compatibility
Back in the day, this would have been higly illegal due to the possibility of causing radio interference, RFI/TVI.
Remember that show cases were forbidden for regular use, as well.
Alas, the times have changed. The Raspberry Pi and Arduino cases are just as bad.
If you've interested in shielding, have a look at this C64 site.
There's a conductive paint on copper basis shown that can be sprayed on the inside of the case.
It looks like this:
Source: https://www.c64-wiki.de/wiki/EMV
Edit: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questio … n-for-a-pc-case
Just to be clear: A motherboard in a plastic chassis will work as good as on a test bench.
That's not the point, though. The point is not to be an a***hole.
The point is to not ruin other people's hobbys, such as that of makers or hams.
The point is to be aware that your PC may cause interference signals to a neighbor
in 150m distance who for the sake of it cannot figure out where it comes from.
A PC, especially an old one, has several oscillators installed, each of them creating harmonics.
With the 3th harmonic being the most nasty.
Especially slow PCs, XTs, ATs, may transmit signals directly into the shortwave bands below 30 MHz.
Because their oscillators use fundamental frequencies in that range.
That's why in my country, before 2000, commercially sold PCs, telecommunications devices
and accessories had to be shielded, grounded and certified by the authorities.
PCs were required to carry an ZZF, FTZ or BZT sticker in order to be sold commercially.
By 2000, we got that EU nonsense with the -imho- useless CE sign.. 😒
See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federal_O ... nications
Edit: Typos fixed.
Edit: Just had a chat with my dad abou the matter.
He remembers that offices/companies with un-certified PCs could get into serious trouble back then.
So these stickers/certificates weren't a luxury, really. It was a serious matter.
"Time, it seems, doesn't flow. For some it's fast, for some it's slow.
In what to one race is no time at all, another race can rise and fall..." - The Minstrel
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Jo22 wrote on 2022-10-01, 11:26:The case is missing shielding for electromatic compatibility. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_compatibility […]
The case is missing shielding for electromatic compatibility.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_compatibilityBack in the day, this would have been higly illegal due to the possibility of causing radio interference, RFI/TVI.
Remember that show cases were forbidden for regular use, as well.Alas, the times have changed. The Raspberry Pi and Arduino cases are just as bad.
If you've interested in shielding, have a look at this C64 site.
There's a conductive paint on copper basis shown that can be sprayed on the inside of the case.It looks like this:
260px-EMV_lack_docs.jpgSource: https://www.c64-wiki.de/wiki/EMV
🤣
Veeb0rg wrote on 2022-10-01, 08:32:oso2k wrote on 2022-10-01, 07:42:Veeb0rg wrote on 2022-10-01, 06:05:Where does the board sit inside this thing?
For now there's standoffs. You could drill out the shell to mATX or miniITX or something else. Then you could use regular PC standoffs.
I mean where physically.. top bottom side?
Along the long side. See
Veeb0rg wrote on 2022-10-01, 09:27:oso2k wrote on 2022-09-30, 22:22:So I'm running out of PLA. A 1kg spool of Inland Bone White is not quite enough to print all 3 pieces. I'm going to have to test the Pause/Resume feature of my Guide II until the new spool I ordered comes in tomorrow.
how close is the bone white compared to an actual vintage case color wise? I'm looking for something to print blank drive bay covers with.
Inland Bone White is sorta close. It seems to have slight fade/yellowing/hint of brown in comparison to a modern beige on a Samsung floppy drive and to a Pentium II era cases, CD drive, Zip Drive. I'll send you a raft scrap if you'd like. DM me.
Ugh...Amazon screwed up my delivery yesterday and somehow my printer "shutoff on its own" this morning. I have my suspicions about what really happened. Anyways, I'm a mere 30mm short on this print but I can use it for other things like dry fitting the 5150/5160 style design I have in my mind. I also had some warping on the four bottom corners with a 70C bed and a raft. Maybe a diagonal support member is in order. Otherwise, I love the design for 386/486 "Baby AT" look.
Very well done overall @wiretap!
This case looks really cool ! This makes me think how making replacement front plastics for old cases is viable though the size is quite big and out of reach of many printers...
T-04YBSC, a new YMF71x based sound card & Official VOGONS thread about it
Newly made 4MB 60ns 30pin SIMMs ~
mida sa loed ? nagunii aru ei saa 😜
Tiido wrote on 2022-10-03, 00:55:This case looks really cool ! This makes me think how making replacement front plastics for old cases is viable though the size is quite big and out of reach of many printers...
Maybe. A friend told me about Voron printers and they have some really massive beds if you want to go about 350mm. And I recently found out about hubs.com if you need to go bigger. For instance, this faceplate and drive tray would be about $50 to print there in volumes of 10.
I bought these case accessory parts. The lock was cheaper until wiretap's referenced lock went on sale today. Waiting on a few more parts before I wire it up to a mobo.
Jameco Lock switch - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00B88DI98
Red Button prewired - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08GQ3HYHZ
Green button prewired - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08GQ42YDJ
Power switch - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08MF5HGQK
Update.. finished. Uploaded the files to thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5766910
Looks awesome! Thanks for all the great work!
Btw, what is that back clamp for?
oso2k wrote on 2023-01-05, 16:45:Btw, what is that back clamp for?
To hold the cards in place.
I wrote that, started thinking about it in the shower, and made that conclusion. However, your pic really show how good of design this all turned out. Again, awesome!
Did you see this case @wiretap? https://youtu.be/vkuYGle9L20?t=148
Yea I saw that. It's pretty neat. It is designed in almost the exact layout as the 3-ISA and 4-ISA IPC cases.
😳 😳 😳 😳 😳 This is FANTASTIC!!!!
Exactly the kind of thing I was talking about in my last thread here on Vogons!!! 😳
Man you made a superb job!!!!
They said therefore to him: Who are you?
Jesus said to them: The beginning, who also speak unto you
Computers should be fun inside not outside! 😉 (by Joakim)
HI Guys! LOVE THIS!
i was about to print it then realized it doesn't have a back plate at all? With Cutout for AT Keyboard hole or PCI slots etc?? Or am i missing something?