Ozzuneoj wrote on 2023-01-12, 01:11:

That's amazing! I would seriously suggest making a thread about this modification once you find the files. […]
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ChrisK wrote on 2023-01-11, 20:39:

So here are some pictures of the card. […]
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Ozzuneoj wrote on 2023-01-10, 18:28:

I'm very curious about this. What part did you use to replace that ridiculously hot regulator? I know several Voodoo cards from this time period have similar issues with heat dissipation and regulators that run at least as hot as the graphics chip itself.

So here are some pictures of the card.

Riva TNT_switching reg_1.jpg
Riva TNT_switching reg_2.jpg
Riva TNT_switching reg_3.jpg

Have to dig in my archive for the PCB files since they obviously have disappeared on my main machine. Will append them here as soon as possible.

That's amazing! I would seriously suggest making a thread about this modification once you find the files.

These are the kinds of mods that can extend the useful life of parts. I'm sure more than a few people would do this if it isn't too difficult or expensive.

... I will say though, I've never worked with components like that, so I would definitely need some instructions to go with the PCB files.

I've made up a new thread about this where I've also appended the design files:
Switching regulator module as replacement for hot linear regulators (mainly used on PCI VGA cards)

Repo Man11 wrote on 2023-01-14, 01:09:

RetroPC_King wrote on 2023-01-13, 13:30:

Today's find is a MATSONIC MS8137C+ 2.0 VIA KT266a motherboard with a AMD Athlon XP 1700+ CPU with a Foxconn CPU Cooler. Also this board came with a I/O Shield.
Any opinions?

It's remarkably similar to this ECS P4 board I had, down to the large jumper blocks to choose between SDR and DDR memory. It was set up with SDR and a 1.7 GHz Celeron which must have been pretty sad - it wasn't exactly a high performing board when I tested it with a 2.4 GHz P4 and DDR.

Same as other low budget motherboards from this vendor.
When I recapped my PVMM** I added one or two caps on the top row (you have 4). I got a little better stability (all my caps were bad, I guess it's because of this it stopped crashing randomly with top power P4).

Little nice nugget to test cpu functionality.

mrfusion92 wrote on 2023-01-14, 14:01:

My first NOS item. I'm very happy.

20230114_145613_2.jpg
20230114_145619_2.jpg

NOS stuff is always fun to get, knowing that you're the first person to crack the seal.

mrfusion92 wrote on 2023-01-14, 14:01:

My first NOS item. I'm very happy.

20230114_145613_2.jpg
20230114_145619_2.jpg

Very nice score!

Got these in the mail over the last few days. 😀

AOpen AW35 Pro - Crystal CX-4237B + CS9236-CL Wavetable
Already tested this and it sounds fantastic. Cards like this are perfect for a Windows 9x system that will also be running a lot of older games in a DOS window. The FM synth sounds great and the Wavetable sounds excellent as well. Win98SE installed all the drivers for it automatically and it just works (haven't run DOS games yet).

Media Vision Pro Audio Wavetable "JazzWave" - Jazz16 + OPL3 + ICS Wavefront Wavetable
... haven't tried testing this yet but I highly doubt it will "just work". It seems this one is pretty hard to find and the drivers are seemingly even harder to come by. I will be making a thread about this shortly. Thankfully, the card is in fantastic condition.

EDIT: Well, surprisingly the JazzWave was detected with the Add non-PNP Hardware Wizard in Windows 98SE and mostly works with the default drivers. Sound effects are all good... all of the playback modes tested in DXdiag worked perfectly. OPL3 music works fine. However, unsurprisingly, when I tried to play back a .mid file with the MPU-401 selected the system would just repeatedly freeze until I forced it to reboot. If I pull the DISMPU jumper it no longer freezes when I do this, but I just get some odd ticking\static sound with no playback. I'm assuming the DISMPU jumper disables the wavetable header and the external MPU-401 interface. When you pull it off, those are enabled and the Wavefront chip is disabled. Putting it back on enables the Wavefront chip... which apparently Windows 98SE does not like with it's default Jazz16 drivers.

Bought this a few months back. It took a long time to arrive and it took a long time for me to get time to know the insides of it 😀

kohellus@gmail.com wrote on 2023-01-15, 08:26:

Bought this a few months back. It took a long time to arrive and it took a long time for me to get time to know the insides of it 😀

Ah nice , those c-bus cards are pretty neat.

Fun to see that the Creative card has a CT number just like ISA, PCI, et cetera.

kohellus@gmail.com wrote on 2023-01-15, 08:26:

Bought this a few months back. It took a long time to arrive and it took a long time for me to get time to know the insides of it 😀

I know guys who like to read in the bathroom, but computing is a whole new one (-:

It's how us older folk scrolled through social media before smartphones and tablets existed 🙃

This classic case. Will need a serious retrobright.
I have 3 questions :
Since the yellowing is very uneven,will the difference still be visible if the whole plastic front is submerged for the same time in the same conditions ?
What happens for the blue and clear parts ?
What happens for the sticker ?

Sony CPD-420GS. Unfortunately not that bright of a picture

JustJulião wrote on 2023-01-15, 20:21:

IMG_20230115_211732.jpg […]
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IMG_20230115_211732.jpg

This classic case. Will need a serious retrobright.
I have 3 questions :
Since the yellowing is very uneven,will the difference still be visible if the whole plastic front is submerged for the same time in the same conditions ?
What happens for the blue and clear parts ?
What happens for the sticker ?

Depending on the sticker type you can destroy them. So better carefully remove them if possible.

Clear parts are no problem. Don't have experience with colored parts.

I always use the cream stuff and then position the part in such a way that the most yellowed area gets the most light (from a grow lamp) . The end result is that it will then be pretty even.

kohellus@gmail.com wrote on 2023-01-15, 08:26:

Bought this a few months back. It took a long time to arrive and it took a long time for me to get time to know the insides of it 😀

Nice machine, but you might want a nicer PC-9801 machine for those Window Accelerators (since they're for Windows and a few 256 color games). To use them you'll need to connect the onboard video to them and your monitor to the accelerator. You might also want to get a NEC PC-9801-26k board being that some games use the sound ROM. Also be sure to remove the NiCD battery if you haven't already. To write floppies for it, use SAMDisk and write HDM files.

Be very careful because you'll end up buying more 9801s guaranteed. Also get the rubber dome keyboards they're more likely to work from experience.

JustJulião wrote on 2023-01-15, 20:21:

IMG_20230115_211732.jpg […]
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IMG_20230115_211732.jpg

This classic case. Will need a serious retrobright.
I have 3 questions :
Since the yellowing is very uneven,will the difference still be visible if the whole plastic front is submerged for the same time in the same conditions ?
What happens for the blue and clear parts ?
What happens for the sticker ?

The blue parts can relatively easy be clicked off the rest of the front, if the plastic isn't too brittle yet ..

devius wrote on 2023-01-15, 19:01:

It's how us older folk scrolled through social media before smartphones and tablets existed 🙃

Heh, remembering one's first super flexible cat5 cable, almost as freeing as wifi 🤣

Tablets though were a thing, though an expensive and not very mass adopted thing, in existance longer than real laptops (i.e. the notebook form factor rather than huge clamshell) look up gridpad.

gmaverick2k wrote on 2023-01-15, 20:36:

Sony CPD-420GS. Unfortunately not that bright of a picture

Adjust the brightness at the flyback

devius wrote on 2023-01-15, 19:01:

It's how us older folk scrolled through social media before smartphones and tablets existed 🙃

I guess if that's the only time you are able to connect to the BBS, you better not waste it.

TheAbandonwareGuy wrote on 2023-01-16, 00:28:

gmaverick2k wrote on 2023-01-15, 20:36:

Sony CPD-420GS. Unfortunately not that bright of a picture

Adjust the brightness at the flyback

*kapow*

When you get back from the ER try again with a non conductive trim tool. 🤣

gmaverick2k wrote on 2023-01-15, 20:36:

Sony CPD-420GS. Unfortunately not that bright of a picture

Try performing a factory color reset. It should be under the OPTION menu. You need to leave the monitor on for 30 minutes, then you'll be able to activate that function. It will automatically recalibrate the monitor.

I did this on a Sony monitor I acquired not too long ago and it made a huge difference in the picture output.