VOGONS


First post, by smtkr

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A while back, I bought a Gainward Geforce 3 GS on eBay, but it didn't have a cooler. I have an old Thermaltake Crystal Orb and an all copper passive cooler that I could use, but I decided that since this is a hobby, it makes sense to try something custom. I had previously seen a few prototypes on this forum using Pentium M coolers. I like the look of them, so bought one and spent time planning out how to mount it.

Here are the parts that I eventually settled on for this small project:
Evercool Pentium M cooler
4x M2 25mm Cap Head Screws (22mm would be ideal for reasons you'll see below)
8x M2 Washers
4x Nylon Locking Nuts
4x 4mm diameter plastic spacers
4x M2.5 plastic shoulder washers (optional and maybe not recommended)
4x Springs--5mm outer diameter, 5mm length, 0.5mm wire diameter
1x 3pin to 2pin fan converter
Teflon Tape (optional--I was slightly worried about the screws connecting electrically to the mount holes, which have metal eyelets)

Mounting holes
The way that I planned to mount this is not via the two primary mounting holes to which a typical cooler attaches. I noticed on Geforce 2 and 3 cards, there are four smaller holes in a square pattern around the GPU core. You can't fit an M2.5 screw through these holes. The biggest screw you can fit through is an M2 screw.

Modifying the cooler
I planned on mounting the cooler through these, but they are slightly offset from the mounting holes on the cooler. I needed to bore into the side of each of these holes in the direction of the center mass of the cooler. I used a ruler to draw some guide lines and planning on boring about 2mm in for each hole. Now, importantly, I tried to do this initially by screwing the cooler to a piece of wood and using a Dremel. That was a huge mistake. Every time I moved the boring bit into the copper, it bit, jumped, and scuffed up spots on the cooler that were unintended. In fact, it seemed to only bore into spots I didn't want it to. You can see some of the damage in one of the pictures. Ultimately, I decided to using a set of needle files I have. My needle files are #4 fineness, which is not ideal. I wish I had some #2s, because it took almost 2 hours of filing with my #4s, which are more designed for jewelry and other fine work.

After I finished filing, I lapped the surface of the cooler. This caused some discoloration, which I tried to clean off with some mild acid (which did nothing) and I eventually moved into "don't care mode" and simply cleaned it with some alcohol.

Installation
I applied thermal paste I had on hand from a recent system build and mounted the cooler as shown in the pictures. The only thing I'll say about this is that it's easier said than done to hold onto a card, steady an allen wrench, and tighten a nut driver. I need a third arm for this stuff (or you can hold the allen wrench in your mouth like I did).

Problems
First off, I'm kind of ashamed to say that I went through 5 separate rounds of ordering because (a) I misestimated sizes several times and (b) getting the spring tension just right is a trick. A smarter person would have gotten this right on the first try (and you can imagine that ordering these parts each time in small quantities is expensive). This is partially why I made this post. It might help someone.
Second of all, you can probably see what might be a future problem. 25mm screws will very likely hit the cooler on a retail Slot 1 Pentium III CPU. I have a Socket 370 CPU on my testbench right now, but I held an SL4KL I had within reach up near the slot and it looks like it will hit it. Shaving 3mm off the screws would be enough.

Other Notes
The reason I spent so much time testing different springs is that I was worried about applying too much pressure to this antique and breaking the BGA joints underneath the chip. Ordinary coolers from 2001 would have been held at two mount points with weak tensioners. This cooler is pretty heavy, so it needs more tension, but it also has four mount points, so you have to be careful how much pressure is on it, IMO. I think the springs I picked are perfect, but I was pretty close to settling on some 0.6mm wire diameter springs too.

I'll update this with more pictures in a couple of minutes.

Edit: Added 3pin to 2pin fan connector to the parts list

Card as it arrived from eBay seller

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Cooler with guidelines drawn

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Cooler Top

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Cooler after lapping

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Parts

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Last edited by smtkr on 2023-05-27, 00:47. Edited 2 times in total.

Reply 1 of 11, by smtkr

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Screws with teflon

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Front view

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Rear view

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Front with fan installed

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Installed on test bench (notice how far screws protrude)

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Reply 2 of 11, by smtkr

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One request I would like to make to the community is for some information on thermals for Geforce 3 cards. Since I'm running this on a test bench, I can do some things that I can't do when things are mounted inside a case. I usually hold my face near a component to see if there is any heat radiating from a part. If I hold my face over this card, I can feel the heat blowing out of the heatsink I installed. Given that the Geforce 2 I had in the test bench before this blew room temperature air even under load, this is a little concerning. I put my finger on the back of the Geforce 3 to feel the PCB underneath the GPU core and it's pretty hot. During the nature demo in 3dmark 2001SE, I almost had to take my finger off it. Does anyone know if that's anomalous?

Reply 3 of 11, by shevalier

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I would rotate the heatsink 90 degrees.
That would not blow air on the motherboard.

Aopen MX3S, PIII-S Tualatin 1133, Radeon 9800Pro@XT BIOS, Diamond monster sound MX300
JetWay K8T8AS, Athlon DH-E6 3000+, Radeon HD2600Pro AGP, Audigy 2 Value

Reply 4 of 11, by smtkr

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I don't think there's anything on the motherboard between the AGP slot and the PCI slot that are heat sensitive. I looked at my stock Geforce 2 heatsink orientation and it's vertical like this. The air coming off this heatsink is probably 35C-40C, so I don't think it matters too much.

Reply 5 of 11, by shevalier

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smtkr wrote on 2023-05-27, 13:51:

are heat sensitive.

But PCI slot is dust sensitive.

Aopen MX3S, PIII-S Tualatin 1133, Radeon 9800Pro@XT BIOS, Diamond monster sound MX300
JetWay K8T8AS, Athlon DH-E6 3000+, Radeon HD2600Pro AGP, Audigy 2 Value

Reply 7 of 11, by smtkr

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Doornkaat wrote on 2023-05-29, 11:14:

If you can keep your finger on the back of the card for some time it's probably safe.👍
Getting warm air is also a good sign as I read it. Means the heatsink works.

Thanks for the reply. The card is working great and I suspected these cards run a lot hotter than the Geforce 2. I wish I had the equipment to do a comparison of power draw between them.

Reply 8 of 11, by BitWrangler

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I recall my GF3s tending to run "unpleasantly" finger hot with aquamark or something intensive. i.e. it hurt a little but you could keep your finger there without damage, what's that, about 60C ???

This page http://hw-museum.cz/vga/174/nvidia-geforce3-ti-500 claims TDP of 43W so 65W CPU coolers should be overkill, 45W reasonable, 35W in stock area for Ti200

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 10 of 11, by smtkr

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BitWrangler wrote on 2023-05-30, 02:54:

I recall my GF3s tending to run "unpleasantly" finger hot with aquamark or something intensive. i.e. it hurt a little but you could keep your finger there without damage, what's that, about 60C ???

This page http://hw-museum.cz/vga/174/nvidia-geforce3-ti-500 claims TDP of 43W so 65W CPU coolers should be overkill, 45W reasonable, 35W in stock area for Ti200

Wow. That's a lot higher TDP than I was expecting. That explains a lot. Honestly, I'm surprised the dinky stock coolers I see on Geforce 3s are enough.

Another alternative I considered that would have been a cool project is the Enzotech CNB-R1. I think I would lose 2 PCI slots if I tried that option though.

Reply 11 of 11, by Tetrium

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smtkr wrote on 2023-05-31, 00:13:
BitWrangler wrote on 2023-05-30, 02:54:

I recall my GF3s tending to run "unpleasantly" finger hot with aquamark or something intensive. i.e. it hurt a little but you could keep your finger there without damage, what's that, about 60C ???

This page http://hw-museum.cz/vga/174/nvidia-geforce3-ti-500 claims TDP of 43W so 65W CPU coolers should be overkill, 45W reasonable, 35W in stock area for Ti200

Wow. That's a lot higher TDP than I was expecting. That explains a lot. Honestly, I'm surprised the dinky stock coolers I see on Geforce 3s are enough.

Another alternative I considered that would have been a cool project is the Enzotech CNB-R1. I think I would lose 2 PCI slots if I tried that option though.

The graphics card cooling solutions of the time were usually sufficient (sometimes this wording might be taken liberally), but definitely not very elaborate particularly when compared to todays standards.

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