These are not tantalums but some type of ceramic capacitors. The 27M is indeed 27pF +/-20% tolerance ceramic with unknown dielectric, but definitely a ceramic. The 104 are 0.1µF ceramics, hopefully with X and not Y or even Z type dielectric. These are not parts you should concern yourself with, they are not going bad and are not at all worth trying to replace unless there's physical damage to them.

Tiido wrote on 2023-08-22, 01:39:

These are not tantalums but some type of ceramic capacitors. The 27M is indeed 27pF +/-20% tolerance ceramic with unknown dielectric, but definitely a ceramic. The 104 are 0.1µF ceramics, hopefully with X and not Y or even Z type dielectric. These are not parts you should concern yourself with, they are not going bad and are not at all worth trying to replace unless there's physical damage to them.

Good to know these are ceramics and not tantalums, thank you!

There is a short on one of them (C57, in front of the crystal), hence why I'm curious about their values.

I suppose once I pull the one out of circuit, I can test it individually and see if the short disappears.

That 27pF cap is part of the crystal oscillator along with other, there definitely shouldn't be a short on it.
I see the crystal itself is slanted, on all my cirrus cards it is flush with PCB which suggests it likely has got pushed and possibly is broken inside. It can cause the observed short on the little ceramic and if it is the case is the reason why the card doesn't work.

Tiido wrote on 2023-08-22, 03:14:

That 27pF cap is part of the crystal oscillator along with other, there definitely shouldn't be a short on it.
I see the crystal itself is slanted, on all my cirrus cards it is flush with PCB which suggests it likely has got pushed and possibly is broken inside. It can cause the observed short on the little ceramic and if it is the case is the reason why the card doesn't work.

Good call, I should test the crystal. I'll break out the oscilloscope and see what sort of clock frequency (if anything) it's putting out.

As I was prepping to test the crystal, I bent it back into the upright position.

Rechecking with the multimeter indicated the short had disappeared. I plugged it back into the computer and it started right up.

So I guess that bent orientation had somehow caused the short stopping it from working. Good news is the card seems otherwise fine.

That is nice ~