eVGA GTX 550Ti SC - A fine card for $16 shipped.

Bought an Asus H61M-K + Celeron G1620 from e-waste for just NT$600 (US$18.59). Checked the manual online...... wait the MB could accommodate i7-3770, the ultimate CPU for WinXP? Bought one online for NT$830 (US$25.71) with shipping in no time.

I've got spare case, PSU, DDR3, GPU, SSD. With these a "spare" Win10 system as well as the ultimate XP build is born. Not to mention that i7-3770 is still faster than any desktop i5 of 7th-Gen or older.

dormcat wrote on 2023-11-09, 16:29:

Bought an Asus H61M-K + Celeron G1620 from e-waste for just NT$600 (US$18.59). Checked the manual online...... wait the MB could accommodate i7-3770, the ultimate CPU for WinXP? Bought one online for NT$830 (US$25.71) with shipping in no time.

I've got spare case, PSU, DDR3, GPU, SSD. With these a "spare" Win10 system as well as the ultimate XP build is born. Not to mention that i7-3770 is still faster than any desktop i5 of 7th-Gen or older.

I think the i7-3770K rates higher than the none K model does. Especially on an Asus board than lends itself to overclocking.
The K model is certainly much more desirable on the used market than the 3770 is.

ElectroSoldier wrote on 2023-11-10, 07:26:

I think the i7-3770K rates higher than the none K model does. Especially on an Asus board than lends itself to overclocking.
The K model is certainly much more desirable on the used market than the 3770 is.

Yes, I know the 3770K would be more desirable due to overclocking ability -- sellers know that too, making it rarer and more expensive. Unlike the later -K processors, 3770K has the same Turbo frequency and TDP of 3770, making them almost identical if not overclocked; their only difference is the base frequency (3.5 vs. 3.4 GHz). OTOH later CPU like 8700K has faster (w/o OC) Turbo frequency (4.7 GHz) and TDP (95W) than those of 8700 (4.6 GHz and 65W).

Do you need to go to 8th Gen to get a faster base/turbo speed increase?
The i7-4790 is 3.6/4GHz

Xeon E3-1680 V2 can go up to 4GHz also. An ivy bridge CPU and nice to have for ECC memory support. Perfect for XP too.

Cheers,

ElectroSoldier wrote on 2023-11-10, 19:15:

Do you need to go to 8th Gen to get a faster base/turbo speed increase?
The i7-4790 is 3.6/4GHz

I was only comparing it with newer i5 (4th to 7th Gen); of course newer top-of-the-line i7 would be faster.

Oh right, so when you compare a gen 3 i7 to an i5 then its not until 8th gen that the i5 can keep up...

Interesting metric of comparison to look up.

ElectroSoldier wrote on 2023-11-11, 13:23:

Oh right, so when you compare a gen 3 i7 to an i5 then its not until 8th gen that the i5 can keep up...

Interesting metric of comparison to look up.

Comparing an aging flagship product with a new(er) midrange or entry-level product is very common practice in reviewing products of any kind, particularly in computer technologies. Some flagships age well, while others get replaced in no time.

dormcat wrote on 2023-11-11, 16:17:

ElectroSoldier wrote on 2023-11-11, 13:23:

Oh right, so when you compare a gen 3 i7 to an i5 then its not until 8th gen that the i5 can keep up...

Interesting metric of comparison to look up.

Comparing an aging flagship product with a new(er) midrange or entry-level product is very common practice in reviewing products of any kind, particularly in computer technologies. Some flagships age well, while others get replaced in no time.

Yeah I agree with you there, the i7-3770K, which is the Ivybridge flagship CPU, has done better than most in the desirability stakes than most.
The fact it starts out more powerful than the next CPU down the SKU stack and can be overclocked has kept it relevant.

Building a 160 Terrabyte computer on the Cheap “Inexpensive NOT Cheap Quality components”.

Add these fans to your HP z440 computer for better Cooling of Hard drives and air flow.
Dual USB powered 180mm fans ( Very Quiet ) ( $15 on eBay )
Max Capacity = 160 Terrabytes ( 8 x 20gb 20tb drives )

See my build post link:
Re: Bought this (Modern) hardware today

There isn't much cooling happening in that case with the rats nest of wires and other components. I would be making some acrylic shrouds that can help direct airflow to the components that need it, though its a HP which are built like tanks so it may not be a huge issue.

Intel486dx33 wrote on 2023-12-12, 12:59:

Building a 160 Terrabyte computer on the Cheap “Inexpensive NOT Cheap Quality components”. […]
Show full quote

Building a 160 Terrabyte computer on the Cheap “Inexpensive NOT Cheap Quality components”.

Add this to your HP z440 computer for better Cooling of Hard drives and air flow.
Dual USB powered 180mm fans ( Very Quiet ) ( $15 on eBay )
Max Capacity = 160 Terrabytes ( 8 x 20gb drives )

You need 8000 x 20 gb drives for 160 tb?
I guess you mean 8x 200gb drives = 1.6 tb?

Trashbytes wrote on 2023-12-12, 15:50:

There isn't much cooling happening in that case with the rats nest of wires and other components. I would be making some acrylic shrouds that can help direct airflow to the components that need it, though its a HP which are built like tanks so it may not be a huge issue.

I am done putting time and money into these HP z440 computers.
I am just using them for large capacity inexpensive storage.

I will use them for about 2 years and then switch over to Mini PC’s as soon as large capacity SSD Storage becomes affordable.

Kind of in the sweetspot between modern and retro, I picked up an Lenovo IBM ThinkPad T60 last night for less than 15 USD/ 14 EUR including original docking station and the large battery: I was originally looking for T43 spares when I saw this cheap one - the power supply was lost (or died) so he couldn't test it and thus sold it as defective: I have a few original Lenovo 90W power supplies so decided that it wouldn't be too big a loss to pick it up and try it out. In my parts box I also found a fitting IBM battery in the standard "flush" size and a 3M Privacy Filter that originally was on a T40 screen I had laying around (I also have two Lenovo dockingstations used with T61 that the T60 also fits in - but they are kind of useless now as I have the IBM branded which is included with this laptop).

Worst case scenario would be that it wouldn't work - but for the low price, if I couldn't figure out what was wrong, I could always sell the docking station, which easily could bring at least half the money home if not all or more, and then the option to gut the computer to sell for parts or sell complete it for spares or repair.

When I got home I gave it a brief inspection and found it ready to be powered on: At first I got "Fan error" and it shut down, and I also couldn't actually hear the small, hysterical fan that most laptops have, so I opened her up and took a look, after a "kickstarting" the fan with the finger it began to spin up but still reported Fan error until next power on it started up and I took a look in the BIOS: Date and time were kept and the computer started up into Ubuntu Linux where the users were matching the seller's name and the other name written on the door.

The only real damage to be found, which also could explain the stuck fan, was a crack in the plastic case at the exhaust vents. I did not find any missing material and no debris in the fan, so I think all is ok now.

Now the question is what to do: Reinstall Windows XP Professional as the computer were delivered with, or install an SSD and install Windows 2000/XP (both are mentioned in the detailed specifications as original delivery option). Another, a little more attractive plan is to do the installation with the Lenovo recovery discs found at Archive.org.
The plan after this... Well, I will see what I will do; this was kind of an impulsive buy because I thought it could be a good deal: But I might see if I can get a 2007/2008 Lenovo screen, and I do believe I still have a period correct (2007/2008 ´) Lenovo mouse - not sure about keyboard however... I might get my hands on one if I don't have it already, and then after the operative system is installed I will probably install my Beo5 (a Bang & Olufsen remote) Configuration Tool on it and use it for this, although my grandfather's old Amitech would be more fitting as he used it in his Radio/TV repair shop.

This has the 1.83 GHz Intel Core Duo T2400 processor and the maximum supplied 2 GB DDR2 RAM (maximum supported is 4 GB) and 100 GB RAM (maximum shipped is 120 GB). According to the Warrenty Lookup, the computer is shipped from Lenovo to the customer in Denmark July 5th 2007 - and the three years (one year on battery) on-site warrenty (and all other possible warrienties and support obviously) ended July 4th 2010.
This is that weird transission laptop; It is produced by Lenovo (like it's predecessor T43 also is), and is the first laptop featuring the Lenovo logo on the bezel - however it is still branded as an IBM ThinkPad and features the blue ThinkVantage button rather than the old Access IBM button found on T43 which was the last "pure" IBM (apart from the "Manufactured by Lenovo" on the sticker in the bottom), the next model T61 is the first "pure" Lenovo where all IBM logos have dissappeared from the laptop.

I think the issue with an SSD is that neither 2K or XP is aware of SSD, and thus wears it out "real quick" if it's an issue on an intermediately used retro computer, I don't think so, but you may be aware.

Where in Denmark are you located? My local recycling station (Næstved) had a ton of T60s at 150-200 DKK (missing batteries, harddrives etc., though, but maybe spares for you fan)?

H3nrik V! wrote on 2023-12-15, 11:33:

I think the issue with an SSD is that neither 2K or XP is aware of SSD, and thus wears it out "real quick" if it's an issue on an intermediately used retro computer, I don't think so, but you may be aware.

Where in Denmark are you located? My local recycling station (Næstved) had a ton of T60s at 150-200 DKK (missing batteries, harddrives etc., though, but maybe spares for you fan)?

That is actually a really good point, that I hadn't thought about... and it also reminded me to disable the page file on my 16 GB XP rig (aaaand... done), I might just keep the original 100 GB hard drive, althought I don't think I will use this computer much first of all, but I don't know how much the B&O software are writing temporary data on the swap file, because I don't like being limited on the "only" 2 GB RAM which I often find XP being just bearable on.

I am from Copenhagen, but I might have a spare fan from a T61 (I think it was) if a through cleaning won't be enough: Cleaning one a part of the plans for the restore process, where I also will have the vents free for laying some Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner into the cracks (Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner and Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (glue) are basically the same product, could be1% difference in the two components 51/49 ratio and 50/50 ratio (unless that was compared to the regular Tamiya Thin Cement) - the ABC is just cheaper to buy).
I might have to consider it depending on how it turns out to be once I start to dive into it, however it is slightly higher prices than what I paid (I only paid DKK 100,-) but if parts might be needed some day it's always good to have some - or if I could end up finding one with the better CPU, however that will be quite a gamle in the end.

(This morning I was tempted to go pick up a T61, but then I told myself that there is not much difference and I don't need to have it other than to have the three generations of the transision: T43 (if I can get it working again), T60 and T61. If it was a T61p model... men maybe.

CrazyCatman wrote on 2023-12-15, 15:12:

...I don't need to have it ...

i know these words... but they make no sense in this combination to me 😏

DerBaum wrote on 2023-12-15, 15:24:

CrazyCatman wrote on 2023-12-15, 15:12:

...I don't need to have it ...

i know these words... but they make no sense in this combination to me 😏

Don't tempt me; I already have four or five Commodore Amiga 500s - and roughly the same amount of Commodore 64s;)

I did manage to find the problem with the fan; let's just call it a used serviceable part 😉

So I have started ThinkVantage™ Rescue and Recovery™ 3 and started up Resident Evil 5 on the other computer while the ThinkPad crunches through the six recovery CDs (plus the previously used boot disc and Supplement Disc)

Edit: I forgot to mention that during the cleaning, I learned that the 100 GB hard drive as advertised on the label with the computer's serial number and End of Warranty, have been swapped out at some point (could be why the sticker says "Customer keeps defective drive".
The IBM battery didn't seem to want to charge (I set it to charge before leaving for work and it was still blinking when I came home - now when plugged in it says 0% but Lenovo Power Manager tells that the condition is Fair, and can store 54% of the original capacity, however I must say that right now I do not trust that old battery.

Speaking of lighting matters. Color rendering index is your friend literally. 90 to 95 range are the killer deal. 😀 Problem is very difficult to find any still.

Converted my bench lamp to different bulb by Philips, bright white (3000K) PAR30, says CRI 90, (colored 6 petals marking on back of box is the indication or ultra defination). Now my old eye see easier and easier to notice colours. Same thing, this time used regular bulb shape equivalent to 100W by Philips, had to get it from ebay. 1600 lumens with cri 90. It is shining towards the dimmest part where bathtub is with shower curtains, and made the colours pop.

Mother's eyes is dimming due to extreme age, and the kitchen 3 bulbs, two of them changed to daylight (I estimate 5000K) with poor CRI last year and I don't like them and that was pre-CRI selection by Philips, now I know they are available now. This means will see about getting another two, brighter, warmer, with better CRI next month. Mom cooks all the time so better color rendering will be very helpful.

These Philips LED PAR bulbs are now made of glass with better optics design. I really like this since, if you stop by and get any, bright white, 3000K CRI 90, PAR20 or PAR16 with 50W equivalent are sufficient, I was not aware that glass efficient optics collected all the LED light and threw all in one direction made illumination brighter than usual. One step up is 75W equivalent. You can still get daylight 3000K with CRI of 90 in regular pear bulbs by Philips as I previously described.

At my work for phone and tablet, console repair, height is limited by lower shelf and no CRI on these LED desk (I use two for my main bench, desk lamps is about 18 to 20 inches tall, and verilux is expensive and poorly performing due to lack of CRI rendering made examining tiny parts and color of the PCB difficult, and these model is no longer in production. Verilux of this vintage uses the prism sheet to enhance the light transmission. Don't know if verilux still use this technology in current production lamps. Same issue with my microscope lighting in another station, needs to be solved too.

But you can play with these from unlikely sources with your lights.
Prism sheet are used in light transmission system along with diffuser sheet used in LCDs with edge lit backlight. You could scrap a large defective or shattered LCD from a notebook or monitor for these useful films, play with it, trim to size, attach them if you like the results. When taken apart these special films is loose, not bonded behind the LCD panel so can be disassembled.

Regarding regular LED bulbs
Warm white is 2700K, too yellow, due to yellowness, lumens and CRI suffers, and frequently no CRI on the market. If you prefer that, get another with better CRI instead.
Daylight is commonly around 5000K, not 4000K rated as you think, very close to mixture of bright white and daylight but no warmth touch to it and has CRI of 70, which is overly bright, trash light. 😀

Best result if you want good bright, general light with warmth, 3500K with CRI of 90 is best mix for task work. Hard to find, same with 4000K at CRI of 90 but whiter, but not too dead. I'm planning to make one with these 3500K with high CRI specs and see. Unfortunately, have to make one.

Soraa is often sold bulbs with cri of 95. You might want to look into it but you have to buy it from specialized websites, expensive.

PS: don't bother buying parts for homemade LED lighting especially white LEDs with 10W or more without CRI noted. Their phosphors mix is so bad these shined terribly like tinted, nowhere anything remotely like any white. LIke brown light for warm white and too bluish, greenish for neutral white. Seems chinese is using same mix for these trash, chinese made white LEDs.

Chinese colored LEDs are still safe buys of any watts, like red, blue, green, ice blue, true LED yellow etc for your homemade projects.

Cheers,