There is a height limitation for the capacitors because it's inside the screen housing. Max height is 5mm and that means you'd have to carefully arrange any electrolytic capacitor on its side like silvestron did in his video.

Personally I'd go with MLCC capacitors because they're tiny and they're non polarised so they can't be installed backwards. They also won't leak (like electrolytic caps), explode (yellow tantalums) or be too expensive (polymer tantalums).

Here are my recommendations for surface mount capacitors which are less work to arrange in the casing:
C6 - search on ebay for "High Quality 1206 SMD/SMT Capacitors. ALL VALUES. 25pc. UK Seller. Fast Dispatch" they have an option for "4.7uF / 50V / X5R". That should work and fit nicely in the C6 footprint

C5 - ebay "10pcs 6.3V to 5KV 1812 SMD/SMT Capacitors Range 100PF 680PF 1NF 68NF to 100uF" value: "25V 33UF +-10% X7R"

C1 - ebay same as C5 but value "35V 10UF +-10% X7R"

Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-02-28, 14:25:

There is a height limitation for the capacitors because it's inside the screen housing. Max height is 5mm and that means you'd h […]
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There is a height limitation for the capacitors because it's inside the screen housing. Max height is 5mm and that means you'd have to carefully arrange any electrolytic capacitor on its side like silvestron did in his video.

Personally I'd go with MLCC capacitors because they're tiny and they're non polarised so they can't be installed backwards. They also won't leak (like electrolytic caps), explode (yellow tantalums) or be too expensive (polymer tantalums).

Here are my recommendations for surface mount capacitors which are less work to arrange in the casing:
C6 - search on ebay for "High Quality 1206 SMD/SMT Capacitors. ALL VALUES. 25pc. UK Seller. Fast Dispatch" they have an option for "4.7uF / 50V / X5R". That should work and fit nicely in the C6 footprint

C5 - ebay "10pcs 6.3V to 5KV 1812 SMD/SMT Capacitors Range 100PF 680PF 1NF 68NF to 100uF" value: "25V 33UF +-10% X7R"

C1 - ebay same as C5 but value "35V 10UF +-10% X7R"

There is a store which sells electronic stuff here in Vienna, so I will try there first for SMD caps, if not then I can order online. So voltage can be higher, but capacity must match?

I only found these bellow, they are higher voltage but correct capacity. Guy didn't have SMD version. Will this work?

33 uF 35V (original is 25V)
4.7 uF, 63V (original is 35V)
10uF, 63V (original is 35V)

I managed to tear one trace while removing old caps but it is ground contact and I managed to solder new caps. Checked all connections and all seams fine. Also I find the polarity of the new caps using multimeter.
However my screen is white again! 🙁
What is wrong now? Poor quality caps?

Not great .. usually the legs have the same distance. but will do the work.

UPS. isn't C5 soldered the wrong polarity ? be carefull...

nuno14272 wrote on 2024-02-29, 10:18:

Not great .. usually the legs have the same distance. but will do the work.

UPS. isn't C5 soldered the wrong polarity ? be carefull...

Far from great. Too much solder and I needed to twist the legs so the cap can be on the PCB not touching other components.
But I can fix that, that is fine. But why it is not working. I tried soldering twice, the only thing that I could think of is faulty caps. I pay around $3 for 30 pieces.
Higher voltage than original caps is not the issue?
Regarding polarization, I put the red probe on multimeter on one leg, and the black one on the other. It shows a little voltage. If there is a minus prefix it means that Red probe (+) goes to other leg.
Am I right?
This is what I have:

nuno14272 wrote on 2024-02-29, 10:18:

UPS. isn't C5 soldered the wrong polarity ? be carefull...

You might be right, even I checked. Will resolder.

Ok, so last update, I make it to work, but I am not very happy with how I solder it. For now, I will leave it as is.

Thx all for the help!

So back to the beginning. After some time of not using this laptop, I started to get white screen again. I replaced the 3rd cap (which I didn't first time), but the result is the same. Same happens as on the beginning, screen is white and ext screen is working. Is it the caps again? Could it be that they failed already?

boby wrote on 2024-06-14, 10:01:

So back to the beginning. After some time of not using this laptop, I started to get white screen again. I replaced the 3rd cap (which I didn't first time), but the result is the same. Same happens as on the beginning, screen is white and ext screen is working. Is it the caps again? Could it be that they failed already?

Solved, broken trace was the issue.

boby wrote on 2024-07-03, 08:51:

boby wrote on 2024-06-14, 10:01:

So back to the beginning. After some time of not using this laptop, I started to get white screen again. I replaced the 3rd cap (which I didn't first time), but the result is the same. Same happens as on the beginning, screen is white and ext screen is working. Is it the caps again? Could it be that they failed already?

Solved, broken trace was the issue.

Nicely done, I got hold of a T2450CT since and have discovered its LCD panel is very special - the signalling for hsync / vsync is all transmitted in the display-enable signal which means regular modern TFTs can't be put in its place.
I wish mine was so simple to fix, the replacement I got so far has a damaged column driver, the original LCD both polarisers have broken down and the capacitors damaged a bunch of traces so all I can get it to show is a white screen.

Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-07-03, 14:07:

boby wrote on 2024-07-03, 08:51:

boby wrote on 2024-06-14, 10:01:

So back to the beginning. After some time of not using this laptop, I started to get white screen again. I replaced the 3rd cap (which I didn't first time), but the result is the same. Same happens as on the beginning, screen is white and ext screen is working. Is it the caps again? Could it be that they failed already?

Solved, broken trace was the issue.

Nicely done, I got hold of a T2450CT since and have discovered its LCD panel is very special - the signalling for hsync / vsync is all transmitted in the display-enable signal which means regular modern TFTs can't be put in its place.
I wish mine was so simple to fix, the replacement I got so far has a damaged column driver, the original LCD both polarisers have broken down and the capacitors damaged a bunch of traces so all I can get it to show is a white screen.

Maybe you can replace entire PCB. I think I saw for mine somwhere for 30$