When it comes to soldering stations and soldering, here's a few tips I have from training people over the years.
- Skip the desoldering braid and/or desoldering bulbs and irons. These are OK for removing components on single-layer boards or dual-layer boards with not very thick traces. But PC motherboards aren't like that. As such, these tools aren't very good for use on PC motherboards (particularly for novice people), since the thick layers of copper and large vias on the board tend to suck up a lot of the heat, making it nearly impossible or very hard to remove solder from any hole or via... and thus very hard to remove the component itself - at least for a novice user and with an average soldering iron. Therefore, my advice is to skip these and use the "rock" / "walk" method instead. That is, heat one leg of the 2-legged component (capacitor) and tilt the capacitor body towards the opposite side of the one whose leg you're heating with the iron. Now do this for the other leg / side of the capacitor. Then repeat the whole process again. A few iterations of this should free up the capacitor. Afterwards, use a pin, sewing needle, or cork board tack to clear the holes where the capacitor was. To do that, heat one hole with the soldering iron and push the solder out of the hole from the other side with the pin/needle/tack. Repeat for the other hole. You don't need to clear the holes completely, though it does help if you do (if you don't, then you might have to pre-cut the capacitor leads of the new capacitors to make it easier to solder them in.)
- For soldering stations, I would say to AVOID anything with 900M type tips - that is, irons where you put/change tips on top of the heating element. Even the "better" 900M irons can still have rather poor tolerances and thus poor heat transfer. Unless you get a genuine Hakko, I would highly suggest you skip these. ... at least that's how these were many years back. Not sure if the newer Chinese ones have improved upon that (they might have). But to be on the safe side, I caution against these. Instead, go for a soldering iron that uses "T12" type of tips. These are the type of tips that have a heating element integrated in the tip itself, so they have much better heat transfer and can deal much better with the thick layers of a PC motherboard. Of course, it also helps if the T12 station itself is powerful enough, too (50 Watts or more would be good.) Compared to 900M style tips, T12 is classes above it. I use my 75W T12 station with a helper iron to regularly remove SMD MOSFETs from motherboards, and I can do it in just a few seconds - overall, even quicker than with hot air, and without any danger of overheating anything else around. In contrast, even the thicker/bigger 900M tips will struggle with attempting such procedure.
And that's really about it.
mockingbird pointed out some good polymer caps that should work for the brown and black United Chemicon KZG and KZJ series.
I also see what looks like OST RLX series on the MSI motherboard (the dark blue caps with gold print.) These aren't that bad... but if you want to "bulletproof" the board a bit more, consider changing these as well. Something like Panasonic FR, FS, and FM series should be good enough as replacements... or from Rubycon, ZL and ZLH series (and IIRC, ZLK series.) I don't exactly remember the Nichicon equivalents, but possibly HV and HW series.
As for the caps on the P4 board... I also can't quite make out what they are... but pretty much the same series of Kemet polymer caps listed above should work fine.
