VOGONS


First post, by darthron2005

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

I was recently repositioning the fan cable of one of my 486 cpus so that it wouldn't grind against the fan and it broke off. The fan is inset into the cooler, which in turn is glued to the cpu. Does anyone have any idea on how i could remove the cooler from the cpu?
https://imgur.com/a/HUbJZqU

Reply 1 of 8, by Shponglefan

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t

There are a couple things to try:

1) Freezing it to make the glue more fragile.

2) Inserting a thin blade along the edge and gently tapping until the heatsink separates from the processor.

Note that you want to go gently when you are doing this. A poster while back tried doing the latter and ended up shattering the CPU.

Pentium 4 Multi-OS Build
486 DX4-100 with 6 sound cards
486 DX-33 with 5 sound cards

Reply 3 of 8, by Deunan

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t
Shponglefan wrote on 2024-06-28, 16:34:

1) Freezing it to make the glue more fragile.

Depends on the glue in question. It would work well for cement-like glue. If it's something like double-sided thermal sticky tape it would be better to get it hot (within reason, we don't want to damage the chip or get blisters on fingers) to make it "flow". Soaking overnight in 99% IPA might also help, at least soften the sides a bit, and it's safe for the chip. Solvents do next to nothing for cement type glues though.

Reply 4 of 8, by kaputnik

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

I'm usually heating the heatsink to soften the epoxy/lessen the adhesive forces, and twist it off. Consult the absolute maximum ratings section of the datasheet for the particular CPU, it can safely be heated to its max storage temp. It's usually around 150 deg C for CPU:s in ceramic packages.

Clamp the CPU in a vise with aluminum or copper jaws. Use minimal force, just so it stays clamped. Heat the heatsink with a hot air gun, keeping track of the temperature with an IR thermometer (remember to do the correct emissivity setting in the thermometer, default is almost never matched to metal surfaces). Once you hit target temperature, slowly/carefully twist the heatsink off. Use a thick leather glove.

Reply 5 of 8, by Joakim

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

Maybe you can use the thinnest painters knife as a last resort. But I would prefer cooling it in the freezer in a bag and see if it breaks the bond.

Reply 6 of 8, by Mandrew

User metadata
Rank Member
Rank
Member

I'd replace the fan instead, it's like $3.

Reply 7 of 8, by darthron2005

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie
Mandrew wrote on 2024-06-29, 10:31:

I'd replace the fan instead, it's like $3.

I have attached an image I uploaded to imgur of the cooler to my initial post and on it you can see that the fan is inset into the heatsink and is also the fan is moulded or glued to the heatsink meaning i can't easily replace it.

Reply 8 of 8, by Repo Man11

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t

I had a Pentium Pro with a heat sink that was either intentionally glued on, or the thermal compound had solidified to the point where it was indistinguishable from glue. I let it sit overnight in the freezer, and the heat sink popped right off with some gentle prying. That trick has also worked well for me for several video cards that had petrified thermal compound.

After watching many YouTube videos about older computer hardware, YouTube began recommending videos about trains - are they trying to tell me something?