The two slots at the seam on top are pair of latch releases. Need just right thickness of some strength and wide and push down firmly, while pulling back the back case in each to release. On the bottom, there are two trick latches, to release, squeeze two latches together one by one. Then cabinet is now free to slide out.

I worked on Samsung monitors back in the day at electronics shop as full time job.

You will not find anything to adjust as these internal settings are stored on a writeable eprom IC. All you can do is replace tired capacitors. Back in the day, I used Samsung jig box and special software to do internal adjustments. Ah, also check the soldering joints too. Some are broken by now.

Cheers,

Agreed with the post above, but just wanted to add the token "be careful in there" comment. They pack a huge punch and will hold that charge a lot longer than you'd expect. I'm positive you know this based on the post and but you never know who might land on this thread from Google.

Get a nice slab of wood to stand on, and some spiked golf shoes to wear, then at least if you make a bad mistake the relatives can have a really cool tabletop with Lichtenberg figures burned into it. 🤣

No, but yeah, if you've got something like tablet/phone spudgers or car trim removal tools around, then those might be helpful to get you in, even thick guitar picks/plectrums can be good sometimes. I've had things where I've had to have a bunch of clothespegs as wedges all the way round something to stop it latching up again until I'd got the last clips released.

DrAnthony wrote on 2024-10-07, 23:34:

Agreed with the post above, but just wanted to add the token "be careful in there" comment. They pack a huge punch and will hold that charge a lot longer than you'd expect. I'm positive you know this based on the post and but you never know who might land on this thread from Google.

I know about that but the service manual doesn't mention discharging the CRT and shows it as being enclosed in a metal cage.

So I opened it and tried to lift the video spring and remove the CRT Socket PCB as per the manual because that's where the video signal is processed but it really doesn't want to detach itself.

It's kind of a big socket, with thick pins and strong contacts so it doesn't loosen, so it's kind of like trying to pull out three 115V plugs at the same time as regards force. Don't move those tabs sticking out, they align/adjust the beam.

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-10-20, 18:08:

It's kind of a big socket, with thick pins and strong contacts so it doesn't loosen, so it's kind of like trying to pull out three 115V plugs at the same time as regards force. Don't move those tabs sticking out, they align/adjust the beam.

I didn't move any of those tabs. I released the spring directly under the PCB but I still couldn't remove it. How to remove the PCB?

So I managed to remove and open it but apparently my soldering iron broke while in storage and my other iron that's not a Soviet giant tip thingy operates at 520° (it's a hybrid soldering + wood burning kit).

That sucks. I broke my favorite old one a while back and still switching between 3 others now to figure which one I hate least.

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-10-21, 15:40:

That sucks. I broke my favorite old one a while back and still switching between 3 others now to figure which one I hate least.

I put it back in and it works fine now.

Oh good, only reason I ever had to have the neck board off something was that a resistor burned out... and for some reason it appeared the wrong wattage had been put in at the factory, the Blue and green channels had 1/2 watt and the red channel had 1/4 watt brown and crispy.

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-10-21, 20:46:

Oh good, only reason I ever had to have the neck board off something was that a resistor burned out... and for some reason it appeared the wrong wattage had been put in at the factory, the Blue and green channels had 1/2 watt and the red channel had 1/4 watt brown and crispy.

So I desoldered all the tabs but I can't remove the cover as long as the socket is in there. I pressed the plastic latches but it still doesn't move. And yeah I unscrewed a radiator and the thermal paste isn't really all that dry considering its age (the monitor was made in January 2003).

The socket is soldered to the neckboard, it can't just be removed.
After you remove all the cables, you should be able to remove the metal cover. If you can't, then maybe you missed a spot where it is still soldered to the neckboard. Carefully check where it wouldn't come loose yet.

Kalle wrote on 2024-10-22, 10:32:

The socket is soldered to the neckboard, it can't just be removed.
After you remove all the cables, you should be able to remove the metal cover. If you can't, then maybe you missed a spot where it is still soldered to the neckboard. Carefully check where it wouldn't come loose yet.

I desoldered all four tabs and disconnected everything I could disconnect as per the manual.

Kvopper256 wrote on 2024-10-21, 21:20:

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-10-21, 20:46:

Oh good, only reason I ever had to have the neck board off something was that a resistor burned out... and for some reason it appeared the wrong wattage had been put in at the factory, the Blue and green channels had 1/2 watt and the red channel had 1/4 watt brown and crispy.

So I desoldered all the tabs but I can't remove the cover as long as the socket is in there. I pressed the plastic latches but it still doesn't move. And yeah I unscrewed a radiator and the thermal paste isn't really all that dry considering its age (the monitor was made in January 2003).

Can't you turn the socket in the direction of the arrows?

Ydee wrote on 2024-10-22, 12:07:

Kvopper256 wrote on 2024-10-21, 21:20:

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-10-21, 20:46:

Oh good, only reason I ever had to have the neck board off something was that a resistor burned out... and for some reason it appeared the wrong wattage had been put in at the factory, the Blue and green channels had 1/2 watt and the red channel had 1/4 watt brown and crispy.

So I desoldered all the tabs but I can't remove the cover as long as the socket is in there. I pressed the plastic latches but it still doesn't move. And yeah I unscrewed a radiator and the thermal paste isn't really all that dry considering its age (the monitor was made in January 2003).

Can't you turn the socket in the direction of the arrows?

I kind of can, but it's hard and it bends the contacts in the socket because they are soldered to the board.

I kind of can, but it's hard and it bends the contacts in the socket because they are soldered to the board.

Those tabs should not be connected to the socket, and you shouldn't even need to remove that at all, as that's just attached to the metal plate and comes off together with it.
The two pieces of the metal box should just be clipped together. Once you desoldered the tabs and removed the screws, you should be able to take that metal box apart.

Kalle wrote on 2024-10-22, 16:33:

I kind of can, but it's hard and it bends the contacts in the socket because they are soldered to the board.

Those tabs should not be connected to the socket, and you shouldn't even need to remove that at all, as that's just attached to the metal plate and comes off together with it.
The two pieces of the metal box should just be clipped together. Once you desoldered the tabs and removed the screws, you should be able to take that metal box apart.

Still very hard to move for some reason. I tried to unlatch the other latch (itš further from the socket) but that doesn't seem to help.

So I managed to open it and everything seems fine apart from the nasty dark dust and the 16V 100uF cap's foil feeling damaged to touch (I inspected the part of the board obscured in the image).

Electrolytic capacitor list: 1x 16V 1000uF "funny three-pronged circle logo SHL" brand SAM YOUNG (M) 85°C 2B E(1); 1x 16V 470uF same brand as previous (M)85°C; 1x 50V 4,7uF same logo as previous but "SMS" near it (M)85°C; 1x 50V 1uF "funnier circly logo" brand SG 85°C(M) P9J; 2x 160V 1uF same brand as previous RG 105°C (M) P9A; 1x same as previous but "RD" instead of "RG"; 1x 100V 47uF "less funny logo with 3 pronged circle" KME brand 26 J(I) SAM YOUNG (M) 105°C; 1x 16V 220uF same brand as first cap in the list SAM YOUNG (M)85°C 20 L(1).

Also, I scraped the CRT while disassembling the PCB. Can that interfere with it's operation?