BitWrangler wrote on 2024-10-30, 19:03:
So you're just giving it horizontal sync, no vertical, and wondering why it's rolling? You are going to need to rig a sync combiner.
Would like this comment if I could.
Screen at a minimum needs combined sync and it’s possible sync on green is required with proper termination and ohms if it’s an oddball .
We then get into the different types of sync,
hi-z, sync polarity and other goodies that need to also match up.
A simple question have you literally tried just attaching an rca composite video cable to green? (Like is found on a video game, vcr or dvd player)
I have a bunch of cheap adapters and if that works you know the answer, given ADI didn’t really sell screens under it’s label in North America until at least 1993, that thing could literally be anything even pal (depending on region) as they had security and pos/terminal markets back then also.
If it were my screen I would post photos front and back along with any knobs, buttons and switches then tear the cover off to see if anything inside is “common/standard” with another screen manufacturer. Photos of the video board might help also. (Shouldn’t need saying but high voltage is in there even when the screen is off)
The photo you have is very poor, the chassis looks very similar to one of the deep boxy screens I used to have (not AIC but 1990 era) but my set had a different back panel on the upper right and without a side and front view I couldn’t tell you if there is a lookalike monitor we could also search for.
You may find unused circuit board sections inside the screens video input board that you could populate to be more useful. If s also possible that the internal circuit boards are labeled well enough to spell out the type of video or system(s) it was meant to work with. You can sometimes reverse engineer the scan rate looking inside.
Sseleman wrote on 2024-10-30, 19:26:
As a rule, by adding Vsync I always got no picture at all.
Ok. My plan for now is to make dsub9F to dsub15M "converter" and then route the singnals from CGA card to my Kramer converter.
You do know for testing that you can just disconnect green and attach the v sync to the green BNC and attach h-sync to external (on many of these screens). Considering the proprietary nature though the screen may be very picky about TTL/analog and 75ohm termination, gotta open it up to figure out what they did because some screens are very picky about the sync signal.
Also worth saying, although rare you can damage a screen by sending the wrong form of signal TTL vrs analog and extreme desyncing can potentially cause damage.