To edit the DOS mode you access by selecting "Start", "Shut Down", "Restart in MS-DOS Mode" you can right-click the "Exit to DOS" shortcut you'll find in your Windows directory. Right-click it and select "Properties", then "Program" and then "Advanced". Make sure that the EMM386.EXE line in the config.sys has "RAM" in it and not "NOEMS". This should give you the EMS you require.
This change will apply to every game you try to play in DOS mode.
To edit the way a particular game responds in DOS mode you would right-click the game's executable (.exe file) and select "Create shortcut". You would then right-click the shortcut and select "Properties". Then select "Program" and then "Advanced". Put a check in the "MS-DOS mode" box and also in the "Specify a new MS-DOS configuration". Then you can fill in the autoexec.bat and config.sys as required.
To get EMS (Expanded Memory) you would make sure that the EMM386.exe line has "RAM" on it and not "NOEMS".
Now, when you double-click that shortcut, Windows will exit and the computer will reboot. It will load the appropriate DOS environment and run the game. When you exit the game the machine will reboot again and Windows will reload.
This is the most underused, undervalued and misunderstood feature of Windows 95/98. It's also the most redeeming feature of what is otherwise a cludge of an operating system. It is, without doubt, the premiere DOS program/game launcher ever created.
BTW, if the game crashes or you ever otherwise get stuck in a full DOS mode environment, just type "win /w" (without the quotes) and hit return. This renames the autoexec.wos and config.wos files to .bat and .sys and returns Windows to normal.
98lite with 629K of free conventional memory in full DOS mode using QEMM 9.0 (or 628K with UMBPCI.SYS providing real mode for FastVid) with SmartDrive, CD-ROM, CuteMouse, sound support and UniRefresh all loaded high.