Bzzz wrote on 2024-11-11, 12:23:

Question for rasteri: The github PCBs do not match the ones shown in the video - which one is the current version? I'd guess the github is out of sync, as the main PCB still says RevB and NachtRave's order states RevC?

The kicad files in github are rev d (I'm guessing you viewed them flipped!). The gerbers are rev c.

Rev d is a very minor cleanup. I haven't tested it yet so I won't update the gerbers until I do.

rev c works fine so I'd just go with that for the moment.

mannycalavera wrote on 2024-11-13, 07:41:

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-08, 21:58:

Got PCBs today. 11x for everything except one of the plates (only 10x of those).

I’ll be getting components soon and the shells and hopefully have some for sale soon.

Rasteri, you did it again. :3

Hi, I am really interested in a complete, assembled unit so please let me know when they are on ebay and if possible reserve one for me. Congratulations for the great work.

I can sell you one directly on here when done (avoids eBay taking a cut). We got parts coming in for 10 of them, and 2-3 are already called for. I gotta make my own USB-A to USB-A cord since I don't have one, but have plenty of the individual parts to make one with to program it.

Really like how the interface is through a text editor. That's just cute and I'm super excited to try it out.

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-14, 03:32:

mannycalavera wrote on 2024-11-13, 07:41:

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-08, 21:58:

Got PCBs today. 11x for everything except one of the plates (only 10x of those).

I’ll be getting components soon and the shells and hopefully have some for sale soon.

Rasteri, you did it again. :3

Hi, I am really interested in a complete, assembled unit so please let me know when they are on ebay and if possible reserve one for me. Congratulations for the great work.

I can sell you one directly on here when done (avoids eBay taking a cut). We got parts coming in for 10 of them, and 2-3 are already called for. I gotta make my own USB-A to USB-A cord since I don't have one, but have plenty of the individual parts to make one with to program it.

Really like how the interface is through a text editor. That's just cute and I'm super excited to try it out.

Hi, great, sounds good to me, just let me know when it's ready.

Thanks.

rasteri wrote on 2024-11-13, 15:56:

The kicad files in github are rev d (I'm guessing you viewed them flipped!). The gerbers are rev c.

Oh I only checked the ps2 folder:

Both this and the axp (rev D) have the same project name, care to change that or add some description of what's what?

Bzzz wrote on 2024-11-14, 10:48:

Oh I only checked the ps2 folder: […]
Show full quote

rasteri wrote on 2024-11-13, 15:56:

The kicad files in github are rev d (I'm guessing you viewed them flipped!). The gerbers are rev c.

Oh I only checked the ps2 folder:

The attachment Screenshot_20241114_114332.png is no longer available

Both this and the axp (rev D) have the same project name, care to change that or add some description of what's what?

I don't recommend people build the PS2 version, it's more expensive and does less.

But yeah there should be more info

Got the electronic components in for this. They're all very tiny and cute. These little microcontrollers in particular are super tiny. :3

Also here's the new link for the Lincoln Binns enclosures: https://lincolnbinns.com/shop/aluminium-enclo … e/e-case-a.html

Latest firmware is out. Should improve compatibility with USB devices that have weird report configurations

https://github.com/rasteri/HIDman/releases/tag/v1.1.4

Nachrave, unfortunately I think I'm going to have to pass. I know the gold ENIG is expensive, not your fault.

I really wanted to build one of these up as a kit, but getting all the parts and shipping them to the US for a quantity of 1 just isn't worth the cost. It will cost me as much as my USB4VC.

🙁

I couldn't find an existing design that I liked, so I made my own HIDman. (AKI-C stands for "Akizuki Electronics C-size Universal Board" (there are A to D). I chose it because acrylic sheets of each size are cheap in Japan.)

Once I've finished designing the RPi B+ size version, I'll release it on GitHub. (For this, you can use stack cases for RPi that are available at low prices all over the world.)

I've been following this project for a while... finally decided to register on the forum to comment. First of all, thanks to rasteri for all the great work! I built up several of these a few weeks ago, and they're definitely handy to have around. I've run into a few minor incompatibilities and stuff, but he's been really helpful replying to issues on Github.

Being in the US, I didn't find a convenient source for the Lincoln Binns cases, so I decided to design my own 3D printed case. I didn't feel like messing with screws, so I made one that simply snaps together. I haven't calibrated my printer in years, so it didn't come out looking perfect, but it worked. I also designed a case that's basically just a replacement for the original extruded design (you can either print the front and back panels, or use the original PCB based ones), though I haven't printed that one yet. If anyone is interested, all the files are on Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6833911

Regarding the firmware, which compiler (and version) are you using to build it? I saw both SDCC and Keil mentioned earlier in this thread. I was going to look into making some firmware tweaks, but wanted to at least start with a known-good build environment. Any specific options, etc. I should know about?

And lastly, I have 3 extra fully assembled/tested boards if anyone (presumably in the US) is looking for one. These are just the boards... you'd have to supply your own case and cables if needed. I'd take $50 each + shipping (~$5 CONUS), and though I didn't see a donate link on rasteri's Github, if he's willing to take donations, I'd send $10 from each to help fund future development, more devices to test, or maybe just a few beers.

Thanks,
DogP

DogP wrote on 2024-11-16, 11:45:

Regarding the firmware, which compiler (and version) are you using to build it? I saw both SDCC and Keil mentioned earlier in this thread. I was going to look into making some firmware tweaks, but wanted to at least start with a known-good build environment. Any specific options, etc. I should know about?

You just need the latest sdcc and gnu make. Build it like any other makefile project. I build on windows typically but linux works too (unless I've broken it again)

@DogP that's actually really dope - mind if I use your STLs for my SN11 build? We got 11 front plates and 10 rear plates (along with 11 main boards), so it may work out really well for us to just use a 3D printed shell for the last one.

I got the SMD work all done for the first 10. Going to start on getting the bigger componentry in tomorrow and do some programming to get at least one working. Get my bearings that way.

@rasteri - did you know that the footprint of the 3-tone LEDs is a bit different than the model? I'll have to take a snapshot of the footprint of the LEDs I got from LCSC (that matched 100% with the components in the BOM), but it's not 4 pads per-sey, the two on the sides have a bit of inlay that makes you have to offset the LED a little bit. Dunno if you knew about that or not, not a big deal, I was able to figure it out, but yeah.

Also, first time I've soldered in 4p crystal oscillators. Had to look up the footprint to figure out orientation on those but nothing I couldn't figure out. Excited to have a few almost working. =)

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-23, 04:51:

@rasteri - did you know that the footprint of the 3-tone LEDs is a bit different than the model? I'll have to take a snapshot of the footprint of the LEDs I got from LCSC (that matched 100% with the components in the BOM), but it's not 4 pads per-sey, the two on the sides have a bit of inlay that makes you have to offset the LED a little bit. Dunno if you knew about that or not, not a big deal, I was able to figure it out, but yeah.

oh crap really? yeah can you send a pic

Super tiny so zoomed in 10x, but you can see the inner two pads extend down and then outwards.

Not a huge deal, but definitely means you gotta be very careful how you solder it in.

Anyways I got 5 built and 6 waiting on components I missed. Also waiting on the enclosures, but I’ll pick it back up when I get those here in a week or two.

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-14, 21:49:

Got the electronic components in for this. They're all very tiny and cute. These little microcontrollers in particular are super tiny. :3

Also here's the new link for the Lincoln Binns enclosures: https://lincolnbinns.com/shop/aluminium-enclo … e/e-case-a.html

mine came on a little piece of cardboard with tape on them. your packaging is decidedly more elegant!

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-23, 18:58:

Super tiny so zoomed in 10x, but you can see the inner two pads extend down and then outwards.

Not a huge deal, but definitely means you gotta be very careful how you solder it in.

Anyways I got 5 built and 6 waiting on components I missed. Also waiting on the enclosures, but I’ll pick it back up when I get those here in a week or two.

those black PCBs with the gold look really slick! nice work.

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-11-23, 19:14:

mine came on a little piece of cardboard with tape on them. your packaging is decidedly more elegant!

Oh really? Interesting - I guess PCBWay goes the extra amount with an actual box when you go gold. :3

snipe3687 wrote on 2024-11-23, 19:15:

those black PCBs with the gold look really slick! nice work.

They really do! I ordered the standard 1.6mm size endplates however, just now watched the video again and rasteri mentioned to get 1mm (DOH!) as well as the screws (DOUBLE DOH!). Well, guess I get to go screw hunting then. I don't think the 1.6mm endplates are going to be a problem tho (hopefully). I have a bunch of smaller hex standoffs I used for the weeCee that I may need to use for the serial port.

@rasteri What's the diameter of those screws? Are they basically the same as the weeCee had? I'll have to grab some similar ones off eBay or something. Totally forgot to add them into cart while I was buying from Lincoln Binns.

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-23, 18:58:

Super tiny so zoomed in 10x, but you can see the inner two pads extend down and then outwards.

Not a huge deal, but definitely means you gotta be very careful how you solder it in.

I don't see what the problem is, you sure you're putting the LED on the right way up? It should be pointed towards the edge of the case, with the green mark nearest the "D1" mark

rasteri wrote on 2024-11-20, 19:48:

You just need the latest sdcc and gnu make. Build it like any other makefile project. I build on windows typically but linux works too (unless I've broken it again)

Great, thanks! I'll give it a shot this weekend.

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-23, 04:51:

@DogP that's actually really dope - mind if I use your STLs for my SN11 build? We got 11 front plates and 10 rear plates (along with 11 main boards), so it may work out really well for us to just use a 3D printed shell for the last one.

Feel free to use it however you want... hopefully someone finds it useful, or at least interesting.

rasteri wrote on 2024-11-24, 02:09:

I don't see what the problem is, you sure you're putting the LED on the right way up? It should be pointed towards the edge of the case, with the green mark nearest the "D1" mark

As @rasteri said, the LED should be on its side, shining light forward. In the pic you posted, it looks like you're mounting them laying flat on their back, pointed upward.

I will say that not all the pads soldered properly in the reflow oven for me, so I ended up touching some of them up by hand, but I'm not sure what exactly is to blame for that.

DogP

rasteri wrote on 2024-11-24, 02:09:

NachtRave wrote on 2024-11-23, 18:58:

Super tiny so zoomed in 10x, but you can see the inner two pads extend down and then outwards.

Not a huge deal, but definitely means you gotta be very careful how you solder it in.

I don't see what the problem is, you sure you're putting the LED on the right way up? It should be pointed towards the edge of the case, with the green mark nearest the "D1" mark

Looks like he's mounting it flat on the pcb while you're mounting the led edge on the pcb.