Ujeen wrote on 2024-11-30, 22:51:

I love that dual amd build!
re cap ... are you gonna replace it or just leave that as is ?

I'll leave it since it's still working. The pads were pretty badly damaged too, so It's not worth the risk and effort for me.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2024-12-02, 08:55:

/MZ wrote on 2024-12-02, 08:44:

Maybe the Celeron 533A is also fun to play with. I read somewhere that Intel forget to make some of them PGA incompatible.

It might depend on the stepping.

I have a Coppermine Celeron 600 which is officially supported by my Abit ZM6 and works just fine. It's of the cB0 stepping, and I specifically bought it because of that. Some old forum posts on Anandtech indicated that only the Celeron 600 variants of that stepping will work in that board.

It seems like I got the wrong stepping, but will try it in an PGA Adapter anyway. All my other Coppermine CPU are 700mhz or faster, but with this FC-PGA adapter they should also run on an old 440BX board.

Began restoring the Highscreen 08/15 bigtower. First things first, getting that bomb off the UC4915-A mainboard.

(After cleaning with vinegar and alcohol) Could've been worse!

PD2JK wrote on 2024-12-02, 15:18:

Began restoring the Highscreen 08/15 bigtower. First things first, getting that bomb off the UC4915-A mainboard.

(After cleaning with vinegar and alcohol) Could've been worse!

Wow, not too bad! Looks like perhaps just that one trace between the two others may need to be patched up.

Cosmic wrote on 2024-12-02, 15:45:

PD2JK wrote on 2024-12-02, 15:18:

Began restoring the Highscreen 08/15 bigtower. First things first, getting that bomb off the UC4915-A mainboard.

(After cleaning with vinegar and alcohol) Could've been worse!

Wow, not too bad! Looks like perhaps just that one trace between the two others may need to be patched up.

Thanks! I think it is some glue residue, I leave it for now. Now I'm testing some big-ass memory modules I had laying around, seems to work. The original configuration only had 2x 4MB.

Fitting my homemade 5.25" USB bezel in an AT case housing an Abit PX5. Only one of the ports connected though ..

Did anyone ever find some proper beige PLA filament?

/MZ wrote on 2024-12-02, 11:04:

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2024-12-02, 08:55:

/MZ wrote on 2024-12-02, 08:44:

Maybe the Celeron 533A is also fun to play with. I read somewhere that Intel forget to make some of them PGA incompatible.

It might depend on the stepping.

I have a Coppermine Celeron 600 which is officially supported by my Abit ZM6 and works just fine. It's of the cB0 stepping, and I specifically bought it because of that. Some old forum posts on Anandtech indicated that only the Celeron 600 variants of that stepping will work in that board.

It seems like I got the wrong stepping, but will try it in an PGA Adapter anyway. All my other Coppermine CPU are 700mhz or faster, but with this FC-PGA adapter they should also run on an old 440BX board.

Hmm, I was going to say that your slotket adapter wouldn't be able to work with an FC-PGA CPU. From what I recall there's a reset pin in a different place to stop PPGA and FC-PGA being interchangeable. But it looks like your adapter specifically states that it's an FC-PGA adapter, very nice 😀

PD2JK wrote on 2024-12-02, 15:18:

Began restoring the Highscreen 08/15 bigtower. First things first, getting that bomb off the UC4915-A mainboard. […]
Show full quote

Began restoring the Highscreen 08/15 bigtower. First things first, getting that bomb off the UC4915-A mainboard.

The attachment DSC_2548.JPG is no longer available

The attachment DSC_2549.JPG is no longer available

(After cleaning with vinegar and alcohol) Could've been worse!

Wow, lucky! It always seems like Nickel Cadmium cells don't corrode as destructively as Nickel Metal-Hydride. Looks like that board would be a tough fix if it was more corroded.

I got this great Toshiba SCSI 4x Caddy-type CD-ROM drive for cheap, the one below. The one above is my XM-3301 that needed entirely re-capping to work and the power supply replaced: Re: What retro activity did you get up to today?

But this Toshiba XM-3501 4x external drive worked playing an audio CD for half an hour or so then broke, looping audio? Checking with the multimeter the voltages were going crazy, 12v was going from 3v to 17v and back again, similar for 5v.
This drive used to be used with a Mac SE/30 and has clearly lived in a shed for a looong time since the connectors have rust spots. The power supply board seems to be the fault since the drive is thankfully still working fine after those voltage spikes. With the XM-3301 drive I couldn't figure out what broke the PSU board and replaced it with a 12v input with a step-down 5v board in there. With this Toshiba made external drive I really really want to get the original PSU working this time.

When powered the 'Skynet Electronic' CID-0503 PSU just makes a ticking or clicking kind of sound and the voltages on the output side fluctuate wildly up and down.
I found a couple of bad caps on the PSU board but they weren't important ones and there's not much evidence of caps leaking except for some weird fluid I found on that big diode in the front, which I think might have come from the adjacent cap but those caps are good quality matsushita / panasonic ones, they still all test as good when removed from the circuit. That diode also tests as good after being cleaned.

The opto-coupler was showing voltages on the receiver side so it looks like the feedback circuitry is working from what I can tell.

Checking the thermal camera this small diode at the front, a Littelfuse P6KE82 TVS diode is getting really hot as soon as the power supply is powered up. From what I've briefly read, a TVS diode is there as part of the circuitry to prevent overvoltage / voltage spikes and it tests properly as a diode when out of circuit. I don't think this is the fault but is definitely another symptom of the main fault. So I've looked at what that connects to and the main thing I can see in its path is the main MOSFET which is an FEC brand 2SK2003 N-channel MOSFET, which is testing really weirdly for a MOSFET, so I think it's broken:

But I've never fixed a switch mode power supply before that's more complex than just bad capacitors, so I'm kind of lost. It's an old part too so the replacement MOSFET with the same part code costs as much as a I paid for the CD-ROM drive itself. I'm wondering whether I can trust the sites that say that recommend alternatives based on the MOSFET specifications, I have no idea what most of those specs mean.
Should I check the SK-8085 controller to see if that's driving the MOSFET properly or is the odd MOSFET enough of a 'smoking gun' to conclude that's the fault?

PD2JK wrote on 2024-12-02, 15:18:

First things first, getting that bomb off the UC4915-A mainboard. ...

gosh that thing made me laugh 😀

H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-12-02, 16:26:

Did anyone ever find some proper beige PLA filament?

I guess it's impossible to find a matching filament color... you probably need to paint it instead

Hoje mergulhei de volta para dezembro de 1989, revivendo uma das épocas mais fascinantes da minha infância. Naquele ano, meu quarto era um verdadeiro laboratório de descobertas. De um lado, o brilho do Macintosh Plus, um presente especial que me permitia explorar novas possibilidades, e de outro, meu confiável CCE Supergame VG2800, trazendo a diversão dos clássicos do Atari 2600 para as tardes de Torres. Passei um tempo organizando meu espaço, incluindo disquetes, gibis da Turma da Mônica e da Disney, todos bem alinhados nos armários suspensos sobre minha cama. No Mac, mergulhei no MORE!, um incrível programa de outliner que me ajuda a organizar ideias e planos. É fascinante como ele transforma a tela monocromática em uma ferramenta criativa que eu exploro com curiosidade. Apesar de já estar planejando montar um futuro AT386, o Macintosh é meu companheiro principal. Entre pausas no computador, meus gibis e a televisão são o complemento perfeito, a nostalgia da época não está apenas nas máquinas, mas no equilíbrio entre tecnologia, criatividade e diversão analógica.
Tenho o meu Macintosh Plus rodando no Mini vMac, com o System Software 6.0.4

GOOGLE TRANSLATED:

Today I went back to December 1989, reliving one of the most fascinating times of my childhood. That year, my room was a true laboratory of discoveries. On one side, the shine of the Macintosh Plus, a special gift that allowed me to explore new possibilities, and on the other, my trusty CCE Supergame VG2800, bringing the fun of Atari 2600 classics to my afternoons in Torres. I spent some time organizing my space, including floppy disks, Monica's Gang and Disney comics, all neatly lined up in the hanging cabinets above my bed. On the Mac, I dove into MORE!, an incredible outliner program that helps me organize ideas and plans. It's fascinating how it transforms the monochromatic screen into a creative tool that I explore with curiosity. Although I'm already planning to build a future AT386, the Macintosh is my main companion. Between breaks on the computer, my comics and the television are the perfect complement. The nostalgia of the era is not only in the machines, but in the balance between technology, creativity and analog fun.
I have my Macintosh Plus running on the Mini vMac, with System Software 6.0.4

Note from moderator: Please post in english next time, this is an English speaking forum. Next time your post will be deleted.

Oh man my spanish sucks, I thought you wrote an organiser program and were trying to turn a black and white TV into something useful until I clicked translate.

Ujeen wrote on 2024-12-03, 02:40:

H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-12-02, 16:26:

Did anyone ever find some proper beige PLA filament?

I guess it's impossible to find a matching filament color... you probably need to paint it instead

Yeah, that sucks.

Better post this in the 3D Print thread as well

H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-12-02, 16:26:

Fitting my homemade 5.25" USB bezel in an AT case housing an Abit PX5. Only one of the ports connected though ..

Did anyone ever find some proper beige PLA filament?

Judging the color of the base you could try RAL 1015 filament, though I'd prefer RAL 1013. Unfortunately for me, I use a resin printer and there seem to be no resins in RAL color, that's why I spray them with 2x primer + 2x RAL 1013 and 1x varnish.

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-12-03, 04:26:

Oh man my spanish sucks, I thought you wrote an organiser program and were trying to turn a black and white TV into something useful until I clicked translate.

SPANISH? north americans learn some language in school? thats portuguese...

CMB75 wrote on 2024-12-03, 07:20:

H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-12-02, 16:26:

Fitting my homemade 5.25" USB bezel in an AT case housing an Abit PX5. Only one of the ports connected though ..

Did anyone ever find some proper beige PLA filament?

Judging the color of the base you could try RAL 1015 filament, though I'd prefer RAL 1013. Unfortunately for me, I use a resin printer and there seem to be no resins in RAL color, that's why I spray them with 2x primer + 2x RAL 1013 and 1x varnish.

Good thing to know the RAL codes. It seems some is available in PLA ... Wonder how close to color they are 😀 But thanks for the heads-up 😀

Living wrote on 2024-12-03, 11:51:

BitWrangler wrote on 2024-12-03, 04:26:

Oh man my spanish sucks, I thought you wrote an organiser program and were trying to turn a black and white TV into something useful until I clicked translate.

SPANISH? north americans learn some language in school? thats portuguese...

See, that's how bad my Spanish is, 🤣 ... kind of almost a repeat of the time I told a Dutch guy his German was awful. There are monoglots and polyglots, I am a sesqui-glot, speak English and halfass know a couple of others.

But to reallocate the besmirch-ment of education systems, I schooled in the UK, they only tried to teach me French and German.

PD2JK wrote on 2024-12-02, 15:18:

Began restoring the Highscreen 08/15 bigtower. First things first, getting that bomb off the UC4915-A mainboard.

(After cleaning with vinegar and alcohol) Could've been worse!

Very lucky! could have been way worse. There is still a little bit of corrosion left in one of the through holes for battery legs. I would remove the solder from the hole altogether. You might need to scrap a little bit of the top layer of the solder so the iron can get in there and melt the rest.

zuldan wrote on 2024-12-03, 20:21:

Very lucky! could have been way worse. There is still a little bit of corrosion left in one of the through holes for battery legs. I would remove the solder from the hole altogether. You might need to scrap a little bit of the top layer of the solder so the iron can get in there and melt the rest.

Thanks for the suggestion, definitely will carry that out.

I finished my GPU cooler mod today.

I can't remember the original, as I've had an Intel cooler on here for a while, but it was a savage job, since I did it when I was 16-ish. I decided to stay simple, which was good, as I nailed it in the first try. Used long CD screws and nuts and a few mica washers to hold the brackets on. The fan clicked into place on top, once clocked properly.

I'm in the middle of gaming on it right now and it's fricking frosty, man! "Playing" Quake4 (1024x768-High) only yielding 20-25FPS, but slow frames means hot card, usually, right? Nope. Hitting the chill zone. Just what I was looking for. Unfortunately the 3.2 P4 I installed in here was kaput, so back on the 2.8.

Major Jackyl wrote on 2024-12-04, 01:08:

I finished my GPU cooler mod today. […]
Show full quote

I finished my GPU cooler mod today.

The attachment 20241203_173056.jpg is no longer available

The attachment 20241203_175214.jpg is no longer available

I can't remember the original, as I've had an Intel cooler on here for a while, but it was a savage job, since I did it when I was 16-ish. I decided to stay simple, which was good, as I nailed it in the first try. Used long CD screws and nuts and a few mica washers to hold the brackets on. The fan clicked into place on top, once clocked properly.

The attachment 20241203_183407.jpg is no longer available

I'm in the middle of gaming on it right now and it's fricking frosty, man! "Playing" Quake4 (1024x768-High) only yielding 20-25FPS, but slow frames means hot card, usually, right? Nope. Hitting the chill zone. Just what I was looking for. Unfortunately the 3.2 P4 I installed in here was kaput, so back on the 2.8.

The attachment 20241203_180555.jpg is no longer available

That's a totally - well - cool mod! But is the heatsink held in place by the fan, which is mounted with 2 3D-printed "click-on" brackets? Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen? Or is there something I don't see and understand?