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Asus A7V133 repair

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First post, by kuurakarahka

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Greetings! Seeing as this forum popped up in many a search about older hardware, I decided to join. I'm not well versed in motherboard repair, and this current project seems like one benefiting from asking others for a change, to speed up both my learning and the mobo's possible resurrection.

This A7V133 I bought new in 2000-2001 with a 1 GHz Thunderbird. Pretty soon I found out the lackluster OC of my chip, and set about making a voltmod as per instructions online. All worked well, lots of volts, lots of heat, lots of noise, some seconds off piFast.

Anyway, I began working on this to make myself a year 2000 PC: Thunderbird with PAL8045, TNT2, the case is late 90s (remarkably I found a case with the very same front panel as the one I got in 1997-1998 with Pentium 2 300 MHz, still in daily use with a "maxed out" LGA775). I have a MSI KT7 Turbo and Soltek 75KAV, too, but the former fell victim to someone impatient (me) and the old PSU took out a little chip SC 1205CS and the parallel port terminator chip. CPU and memory survived. Latter works, but the leaky, bulging mess of caps I do not trust. So, candidate number three it is.

I've primarily tested the mobo with a Duron 800 MHz, jumpers set at 8x100 MHz and 1,85 V. Memory has been random sticks from 64 MB PC100 to 128 and 256 MB PC133. A modern PSU that pushes out 29 A at 5V.

A photo of the mobo with mosfets by ATX conn. numbered in red, benign trace damage in green, voltage reg chip in blue.
The attachment 20250112_164848.jpg is no longer available

I compiled a sheets doc to collect the troubleshooting so far, which is copied here sans the mosfet measurements, link to the sheet:https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xIV_w … dit?usp=sharing

  • Fault(s)
    no POST, numlock yes, no beep, power led yes, fans spin
    VID doesn't work: measures correctly when jumper set at 1,85 (from VRM board pin 1,85V to screw hole, to PSU GND 1,89V). Otherwise: tried setting 1,5, 1,8, measured 1,198V and 1,496V)
    DIMM voltage 2,7-3V, measured at slot pin 6
  • Misc
    voltage reg chip 5322 0035S pin 2 from right bottom (VSB) measures 7,6k to GND
    Mosfet 1 is 10N03L, 2,3 and 4 are 32N03L.
    The larger coil by ATX connector whines when measuring mosfet 1 voltage from drain to ground
    SMD C198 by mosfet 1 look damaged, seems to work, however
  • What's done
    Has trace damage above the DIMM slot closest to CPU. Traces measured to be intact, they lead to NB.
    Has trace damage between CPU and VRM board, right next to the socket (cooler bungle?). Traces repaired: cleaned, scraped open, 1st one only solder, 2nd small copper wire soldered. Repair sealed with nail varnish. Measured working, leading to NB, no shorts.
    Had a voltmod back in the day: reg chip pin 2 to GND via a potentiometer (50k, IIRC). Removed, also back in the day.
    Mosfets 1 and 3 have been taken off and resoldered at some point.
    The black cap by ATX connector has been measured good.
    After the trace repair, it stopped beeping low-high-low like a siren

What's next in my opinion? Well, the voltage mosfet 1 outputs is strange, ranging from 2,7 to 3,1, and would seem likely it prevented booting. I'll check the caps out of circuit by the power connector. The other mosfets seem fine, other than #4. D-G and G-S voltages were both 9V, a pattern unlike the others.

Also, how VID behaves is baffling. It's like setting all four jumpers to 1-2 enables some static voltage, 1,85 V, and all the others introduce a modifier, which doesn't work, instead lowering Vcore by ca. 0,3 V. I recall the voltmod spoofed the regulating chip by adding resistance between voltage feedback VSB and GND, so it saw a lower voltage the lower the R was, thereby increasing Vcore. A page describing it:https://www.angelfire.com/electronic/Dulanic/voltmod.htm. Perhaps at 1,85 V setting Vcore comes by some other method, and lower settings all introduce resistance to VSB-GND?

I must mention this project has already provided valuable experience, especially the trace repair, my first, by the socket. It took hours of crouching over the mobo in the early hours of night turned dawn, but finally the traces accepted the lone strand of copper in union by solder. What a harrowing location, some 5 mm from the socket, almost under the center tab. A more open location would have allowed for taping a soldered wire taut over the trace and kept it in place for joining. But no, dangling the almost invisible wire I was.

That's all for now, let me know if you can help and/or need more information. Thank you for reading this far.

Reply 1 of 9, by kuurakarahka

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Quick update: one of the 1500 uF caps by the ATX conn. measured 5 mF, out of circuit, so there's one! A yellow cap by the socket, 820 uF, measured some 1800 uF. I have yet to check the caps on the VRM riser. Measured values have been consistently 20-30% above nominal, age issue? DMM also, for some reason, stops at the nominal value first, and after a brief pause, reaches the final reading.

Reply 2 of 9, by momaka

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kuurakarahka wrote on 2025-01-14, 21:13:

Quick update: one of the 1500 uF caps by the ATX conn. measured 5 mF, out of circuit, so there's one! A yellow cap by the socket, 820 uF, measured some 1800 uF. I have yet to check the caps on the VRM riser. Measured values have been consistently 20-30% above nominal, age issue? DMM also, for some reason, stops at the nominal value first, and after a brief pause, reaches the final reading.

Are you measuring these capacitors while they are in-circuit / on the board, or did you remove them for the measurement? If it's the former... well, you can't do that - measure capacitors while still in circuit. Reason why is because there are usually multiple of them in parallel. So measuring one means you measure all of them. And depending on the measuring instrument you are using, some will get confused from other components present in the circuit.

That being said, I still wouldn't put it past me that the issue could be caused by bad electrolytic capacitors... though in the case of this ASUS board, I think the chances are less likely. Reason being: I see some good brands like Rubycon on there. And the yellow caps near the CPU VRM are Fujitsu functional polymers, which generally tend to be very reliable. Only the small OST RLS series caps may be more likely to be problematic... but even then, not too likely.

I'd say the problem is elsewhere.
Does the board emit any error codes if you try it without RAM and AGP video card, but only with CPU (and CPU cooler heatsink braced down properly) installed?
CMOS battery good and making good contact in the holder?
Also, if you have a POST card, that might tell us more - i.e. does the board progress through some POST codes, or does it not even try to load BIOS. The latter would indicate a hardware issue/fault that stops the mobo from even trying to read BIOS chip and initialize.

Reply 3 of 9, by kuurakarahka

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momaka wrote on 2025-01-14, 23:40:

Are you measuring these capacitors while they are in-circuit / on the board, or did you remove them for the measurement? If it's the former... well, you can't do that - measure capacitors while still in circuit. Reason why is because there are usually multiple of them in parallel. So measuring one means you measure all of them. And depending on the measuring instrument you are using, some will get confused from other components present in the circuit.

I'm removing them for measurement, although the suspicious SMD I haven't. Not sure I could get it back on intact, and without markings, don't know the specs. With SMD caps, do you just guesstimate them by physical size and then choose voltage as per the circuit's requirements?

That being said, I still wouldn't put it past me that the issue could be caused by bad electrolytic capacitors... though in the case of this ASUS board, I think the chances are less likely. Reason being: I see some good brands like Rubycon on there. And the yellow caps near the CPU VRM are Fujitsu functional polymers, which generally tend to be very reliable. Only the small OST RLS series caps may be more likely to be problematic... but even then, not too likely.

Yeah, I'm leaning towards bad caps here, at least for starters. One yellow Rubycon is double the capacitance and one of the black/gold ones is definitely bust with over triple the nominal value. The latter also measures some 50 ohms, so definitely dead. I don't know how fets work, but I'm almost certain that cap has an effect on the voltages. Perhaps it has to do with the mosfet 4 not switching?

Also, I'm fairly sure that as the VID setting doesn't work very well, perhaps the feedback line also has a filtering cap that's gone bad? The fault doesn't affect 1,85 V setting and that makes me think there's either some sort of a bypass mechanism for voltage regulation at that setting - in counter, spoofing the chip should definitely work at 1,85V, too - or it just so happens that at the present state of things, below 1,85V setting things go haywire.

I'd say the problem is elsewhere. Does the board emit any error codes if you try it without RAM and AGP video card, but only wit […]
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I'd say the problem is elsewhere.
Does the board emit any error codes if you try it without RAM and AGP video card, but only with CPU (and CPU cooler heatsink braced down properly) installed?
CMOS battery good and making good contact in the holder?
Also, if you have a POST card, that might tell us more - i.e. does the board progress through some POST codes, or does it not even try to load BIOS. The latter would indicate a hardware issue/fault that stops the mobo from even trying to read BIOS chip and initialize.

I replaced the CMOS battery with a known good one, seats in fine.

I can't remember if I have tried it without RAM/AGP after the trace repair, have to keep that it mind after I have replaced the known bad caps.

I don't have a POST card, but the PS/2 keyboard numlock works. Maybe it indicates there's at least some BIOS loading going on?

Reply 4 of 9, by kuurakarahka

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Alright, so I replaced the 1500 uF caps and 1200 uF by the ATX and also the 4V 820 uF by the socket, the latter with a 1000 uF one. Bought them new, locally, and measured capacitance before installing.

Still no POST, now does the high-low beep again, numlock works. VID setting still bungled, caveat: one of the VRM riser caps I haven't checked yet. They are very difficult to remove, seems like the bottom lead is stuck. Doesn't matter if I put more solder to ensure heat transfer, it's as if they are screwed. They gave enough leeway, though, to disconnect the upper lead for measurement.

DIMM gets proper voltage now, yay! SMD C198 by mosfet 1 looks damaged (by heat from the fet's replacement by my younger self), so will have to replace it. It's connected to mosfet 1 source, which shows 0 volts when running, so... There's 12 V on the other side of the cap, so I'll get some 16 V cap closest to what the mosfet's datasheet specifies. That's the plan for now.

Reply 5 of 9, by ciornyi

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Do you have post card to check what codes running and where it stuck . Or at least if any codes present

DOS: 166mmx/16mb/Y719/S3virge
DOS/95: PII333/128mb/AWE64/TNT2M64
Win98: P3 900/256mb/SB live/3dfx V3
Win Me: Athlon 1333/256mb/Audigy2/Geforce 2 GTS
Win XP: E8600/4096mb/SB X-fi/HD6850

Reply 6 of 9, by myne

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Google A7V133 boardview.

I'm pretty sure I saw it out there a while back.
What's interesting is that many of them come with a test result file.
If it does, you should see nominal voltage/resistance/capacitance values at most component legs.

Which should be helpful.

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Reply 7 of 9, by Nexxen

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Can you record the hi-lo beep?
Last time I had it it was a bad BIOS. It got corrupted and needed to be reflashed.

PC#1 Pentium 233 MMX - 98SE
PC#2 PIII-1Ghz - 98SE/W2K

"One hates the specialty unobtainium parts, the other laughs in greed listing them under a ridiculous price" - kotel studios

Reply 8 of 9, by kuurakarahka

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Nexxen wrote on 2025-01-18, 11:01:

Can you record the hi-lo beep?
Last time I had it it was a bad BIOS. It got corrupted and needed to be reflashed.

Here´s a short clip: https://youtube.com/shorts/sjZ4IwB4HKg?si=Jkf-7B23y3SofA8O

Other than that, I can´t diagnose it further, as I don´t have a POST card. Yes, BIOS could be corrupted, but the board unfortunately suffers from more.

The boardview tip was very helpful, I was indeed able to find a schematic, and although it didn't have a test file, at least I can see where things connect to.

Notes on what has transpired lately:

CE20, 24, 26, 31, 9A have been replaced
C198 broke, tried various ceramics (500 pf, 1000 pf, 10 uf, 100 uf), but Q17 isn't affected, no voltage at gate or source
Q18 began overheating! Measured voltage to ground: G 5,6V, D 5V, S 2,7V, resistances SD 127 ohm, DS 137 ohm
Q17 also shows lower resistances than before, could be because of changed caps. Can't remember at the moment which was the known bad one's position.
C243 looks iffy, may be related to Q18 heating.
DIMM slots showed a good 3,3V after changing caps, but it didn't last long. I can't think of anything else that I could've done after that fortunate test besides resoldering some sketchy looking capacitor leads in the PWM riser and by the power connector.

Not feeling so great about the prospects of bringing this back to life, I'm afraid. I have a feeling it is something simple, could just have been a cooked mosfet alongside some bad caps, but there doesn't seem to be anything terribly wrong with the mosfet measurements so far, unless I'm missing something doing it in circuit, that is.

Reply 9 of 9, by Nexxen

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kuurakarahka wrote on 2025-01-18, 23:12:
Here´s a short clip: https://youtube.com/shorts/sjZ4IwB4HKg?si=Jkf-7B23y3SofA8O […]
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Nexxen wrote on 2025-01-18, 11:01:

Can you record the hi-lo beep?
Last time I had it it was a bad BIOS. It got corrupted and needed to be reflashed.

Here´s a short clip: https://youtube.com/shorts/sjZ4IwB4HKg?si=Jkf-7B23y3SofA8O

Other than that, I can´t diagnose it further, as I don´t have a POST card. Yes, BIOS could be corrupted, but the board unfortunately suffers from more.

The boardview tip was very helpful, I was indeed able to find a schematic, and although it didn't have a test file, at least I can see where things connect to.

Notes on what has transpired lately:

CE20, 24, 26, 31, 9A have been replaced
C198 broke, tried various ceramics (500 pf, 1000 pf, 10 uf, 100 uf), but Q17 isn't affected, no voltage at gate or source
Q18 began overheating! Measured voltage to ground: G 5,6V, D 5V, S 2,7V, resistances SD 127 ohm, DS 137 ohm
Q17 also shows lower resistances than before, could be because of changed caps. Can't remember at the moment which was the known bad one's position.
C243 looks iffy, may be related to Q18 heating.
DIMM slots showed a good 3,3V after changing caps, but it didn't last long. I can't think of anything else that I could've done after that fortunate test besides resoldering some sketchy looking capacitor leads in the PWM riser and by the power connector.

Not feeling so great about the prospects of bringing this back to life, I'm afraid. I have a feeling it is something simple, could just have been a cooked mosfet alongside some bad caps, but there doesn't seem to be anything terribly wrong with the mosfet measurements so far, unless I'm missing something doing it in circuit, that is.

To me it screams BIOS issues.
Maybe there's more (looks like), but that's something to rule out.

It's boring and tedious, just make it your side project and do a little more when you can. I've made huge mistakes because of some imaginary haste, I know it's frustrating.
Buy a POST card, it's handy as hell!

PC#1 Pentium 233 MMX - 98SE
PC#2 PIII-1Ghz - 98SE/W2K

"One hates the specialty unobtainium parts, the other laughs in greed listing them under a ridiculous price" - kotel studios