VOGONS


Hardware you wish you'd never bought.

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Reply 180 of 192, by GemCookie

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UCyborg wrote on 2025-04-04, 19:22:
GemCookie wrote:

I recently ditched my X-Fi, since the driver CD is useless on Windows 11, while Creative want me to sell my soul to SatanGoogle in order to download newer drivers.

Can you explain that part?

The drivers from the CD do not install on Windows 11. Creative's website asks to solve a reCAPTCHA challenge (served by Google) before any drivers can be downloaded.

Gigabyte GA-8I915P Duo Pro | P4 530J | GF 6600 | 2GiB | 120G HDD | 2k/Vista/10
MSI MS-5169 | K6-2/350 | TNT2 M64 | 384MiB | 120G HDD | DR-/MS-DOS/NT/2k/XP/OBSD
Dell Precision M6400 | C2D T9600 | FX 2700M | 16GiB | 128G SSD | 2k/Vista/11/Arch/OBSD

Reply 181 of 192, by badmojo

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GemCookie wrote on 2025-04-04, 19:37:

The drivers from the CD do not install on Windows 11. Creative's website asks to solve a reCAPTCHA challenge (served by Google) before any drivers can be downloaded.

Daniel K's driver pack is better in my experience anyway, and no strings attached.

Life? Don't talk to me about life.

Reply 182 of 192, by jakethompson1

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When I was 10 I convinced parents to have a person in the yellow pages come and do a few upgrades (including 16MB to 80MB RAM) and I asked for a zip drive. Got a stupid parallel port Syquest drive instead.

Reply 183 of 192, by cyclone3d

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Don't think I have posted in this thread yet... but if I did it is probably the same thing I am listing now...

1. Matrox Mystique. Had it for a couple days and then took it back due to suckage.

2. Voodoo Rush. Was the upgrade from the Mystique.
Took it back after a couple days due to suckage.

Replace it with a Banshee and that was a lot better. Upgraded to. V3 and then a V5 layer on.

Yamaha modified setupds and drivers
Yamaha XG repository
YMF7x4 Guide
Aopen AW744L II SB-LINK

Reply 184 of 192, by ncmark

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IBM DTLA-307030 o

One of the deathstars

It never failed but I never trusted it, wound up throwing it out and getting a seagate

Reply 185 of 192, by ncmark

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MAYBE anything K6-2. If I knew then what I know now, I would have gone celeron (the latter socketed ones with cache)

Reply 186 of 192, by Spark

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Bought an AWE64 Gold, hardly used it. A cheap soundblaster clone would have served me just as well. Gave away that PC to serve as an office PC. AWE64 probably in landfill now. What a waste.

Reply 187 of 192, by Intel486dx33

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Move Forward NOT Backwards
Rate of Decay

People want to revisit computers from 80’s and 90’s
But Capacitors and Electronics don’t last forever.
They go bad over time and solder joints break too.

Don’t invest your MONEY in used old electronics unless you know what you are doing and are
Willing to accept allot of bad components.
You don’t know the history of these components and if they have been hacked, abused, suffered electrical damage, misused, etc.

Better to buy NEW good components with a Warranty.

I have allot of old electronics from before 2010 and allot of them are starting to go bad now.

Last edited by Intel486dx33 on 2025-04-12, 09:17. Edited 1 time in total.

Reply 188 of 192, by schmatzler

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Intel486dx33 wrote on 2025-04-11, 16:56:

Better to buy NEW good components with a Warranty.

You mean those modern devices that conveniently fail just after the warranty expires?
Devices that can't be repaired due to missing datasheets or (if the manufacturer is especially evil) components that are married cryptographically?

Doesn't seem like a great alternative, honestly.

"Windows 98's natural state is locked up"

Reply 189 of 192, by Intel486dx33

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schmatzler wrote on 2025-04-11, 17:48:
You mean those modern devices that conveniently fail just after the warranty expires? Devices that can't be repaired due to miss […]
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Intel486dx33 wrote on 2025-04-11, 16:56:

Better to buy NEW good components with a Warranty.

You mean those modern devices that conveniently fail just after the warranty expires?
Devices that can't be repaired due to missing datasheets or (if the manufacturer is especially evil) components that are married cryptographically?

Doesn't seem like a great alternative, honestly.

Yes, ISA cards are the Easiest to repair and most resilient.

Reply 190 of 192, by darry

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Intel486dx33 wrote on 2025-04-11, 16:56:
Move Forward NOT Backwards Rate of Decay […]
Show full quote

Move Forward NOT Backwards
Rate of Decay

People want to revisit computers from 80’s and 90’s
But Capacitors and Electronics don’t last forever.
They go bad over time and solder joints break too.

Don’t invest your MONEY in used old electronics unless you know what you are doing and are
Willing to accept allot of bad components.
You don’t know the history of these components and if they have been hacked, abused, misused, etc.

Better to buy NEW good components with a Warranty.

I have allot of old electronics from before 2010 and allot of them are starting to go bad now.

IMHO, as with many things in life, YMMV and there are few absolutes.

Newer is not universally better. A lot of the newer stuff is built to a (low) cost, designed to run too close to thermal limits (reduced longevity) and harder to open, repair (multi layer boards, BGA components, custom chips, cryptographical locks, etc) and have a short design life because they are considered disposable once the warranty expires. Manufacturers likely hope a product will fail after the warranty ends, but not immediately after as not to generate ill will about the brand , but not too long after in order to have a chance at another sale.

I buy both new and old stuff, but I am selective.

I will take chances on older stuff that either is within my abilities to upkeep/repair OR cheap enough that I can take a chance and take a calculated risk. I gauge risk based on reputation, avoid thermally compromised designs (very high end CPUs and GPU have been very power hungry in recent years) and take chance on something that may have been ridden hard and put away wet (but hopefully hasn't).

Heat and high power draw arealso the enemy when choosing new stuff, so I choose accordingly. I try to overspec things like cooling, power delivery, write endurance and performance requirements (to a reasonable point).

I have found, so far, that modernish stuff (bought new), can be quite reliable too. I have drives, PSUs, motherboards, etc that have been running non stop for 6 years or more.

Whether one's hardware is old/retro or new(ish), heat and thermally induced mechanical stress are the enemy. Home gateway routers, external drives, TVs, all-in-one/mini/laptop PCs, settop cable boxes, for example, are some iyf the devices most prone to have been designed with little regards for heat management. Choosing better designed and/or less energy hungry ones (or modifying the cooling) can go a long way in having electronics last well beyond the warranty timeframe.

I haven been trying to apply this approach for about 20 odd years, and my electronics rarely die or need repairs before I choose to upgrade them.

Reply 191 of 192, by Intel486dx33

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Also, Always use Surge protectors with power switches.
Allot of Cities around the world have not had good electrical service provider infrastructure.
Many electrical power surges and spikes, Blown transformers, lighting strikes, black outs, etc.

Reply 192 of 192, by darry

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Intel486dx33 wrote on 2025-04-12, 09:24:

Also, Always use Surge protectors with power switches.
Allot of Cities around the world have not had good electrical service provider infrastructure.
Many electrical power surges and spikes, Blown transformers, lighting strikes, black outs, etc.

And replace surge protected power switches every few years as the MOV component wears out silently as it absorbs surges.

An actual line conditioner offers even more protection. AFAIK, using a quality line-interactive topology UPS can offer a similar degree of protection against voltage fluctuations and possibly againt line noise.