BitWrangler wrote on 2025-04-26, 21:08:Random $5 bag of crap time again... […]
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Random $5 bag of crap time again...
GPIO breakout for a Pi, Arduino Uno (genuine), blade throw switch
512Mb DDR333 SODIMM, 50mm fan, shrouded 45mm? fan
80 wire PATA cable, single drive floppy cable.
So the attraction of that one was thinking that shrouded fan was a GPU cooler, but maybe it isn't, but maybe it will get abused as one. Also with yet another 512MB laptop RAM I might finally have enough that all northwood-dothan and 754 laptops can run XP SP3, it's a dog on 512 or below. I am hoping that PATA cable is good, I have many around that seem flaky. The single drive cable for floppy is probably not necessary, but at least it's a spare or might "match" something, being blue instead of normal grey.
Top row are gonna be project oriented. The breakout might help me with some LCD displays or SCSI emulators, the Uno may or may not get applied somewhere, the blade switch, heh, kinda gotta find somewhere ridiculous to use that, though obviously can't have exposed AC wall current through it, so tempting as it is to use for power on switch, it's more likely gonna be a turbo switch or something low DC.
And that TaiSol branded 60mm Delta fan 😀 Great for period correct cooling if you can put up with the racket, the first PC I built had one of those TaiSol coolers which immediately got me interested in how to make PCs quieter.
The other week I got a Toshiba T1850C laptop because it was being sold very cheaply - which was fair, it needed a new floppy drive, hard drive, the keyboard is missing all the plastic surround and I can't get the screen working. It's a nice 386SX laptop when used with an external screen, wish I could figure out why the LCD won't work even after I recapped it, it seems to be shutting off the DC-DC converter in the LCD that makes the around -30v DC to drive the LCD because of a short or something.
Then another Toshiba T1850, the mono one showed up on thebay and it was again cheap enough that I decided why not - this one had screen rot and wasn't displaying anything, oh the DC jack is completely loose and it doesn't boot up at all:
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Once the DC jack was soldered back in place, the floppy drive was given a fresh belt and the Conner CP2084 hard drive was repaired by opening it up and replacing the rubber where the head parks. The capacitors on the DC-DC board in the laptop are good and the NiCad RTC battery still works and hasn't leaked, though the AA standby battery that fits under those LED indicators had leaked a bit. I tried for a while to get that original LCD rotted display to display *anything* and this was as close as I could get with good caps, there's stuff clearly wrong with it and I'm not that interested because of that LCD rot that's unfixable:
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Did you know it's basically impossible to get this specific Toshiba TLX-5156S-C3M LCD panel? It's very specific to the T1850 with custom mount points. There's a Sharp LCD LM64P823 panel that they could've used instead but also unavailable.
Cool list of LCD panels that are in these old Toshiba laptops can be found here: https://conventionalmemories.com/EMIS/emis41v3.htm
Last year though I bought a Toshiba T4600 (mono) which had vinegar syndrome on the front polariser - I got it in the hopes I could get a working mainboard from it but that was ruined too. I stripped the bad polariser off and it has been stored in a box for the last year. That's an LM64P821 mono LCD in a Toshiba though, from the same time period, could it work? Well the connectors are the same but the backlight cables are different and the mount holes don't match up and there's no front polariser
Eventually I decided to take the LCD glass + PCBs out of the LM64P821 frame and made some small mods to fit that LCD glass into the LM64P823 / TLX-5156S-C3M frame & backlight - an LCD transplant!
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Cutting the frame a bit, tape over a screwhole that could've shorted the PCB and then cut down a couple of square rubber bumpers at the corners of the LCD and it worked! The T4600 LCD panel's contrast wheel must've been a bit different because the contrast wheel is very sensitive now but it's working along with the original backlight since the T4600 LCD's backlight uses different connectors and the T1850 really can't easily fit a different inverter board.
You can see what was involved in replacing the front polariser, still a makeshift one that isn't perfect but it's pretty good for grayscale graphics: Re: Vinegar syndrome and choosing new polarising film
So, I bought a Toshiba T1850 and with everything fixed it's now a pretty nice old laptop, especially since it's got 4MB of memory instead of the paltry 2MB that you get on the T1800. I cleaned it up not long after taking this picture 😀
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