Hi, some months ago I got a 19" Philips 109B6 that reaches 1600x1200@75Hz, a cool upgrade from my previous 17" equivalent. I love the aesthetics of these Philips, also the relative small size and weight and thin bezels. And I can have more icons on each desktop as at 1280x960 it reaches 85Hz!
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Some time later I was lucky to get a silver Samsung SyncMaster 957MB. Has similar refresh rate specs, but several improvements:
- Detachable VGA cable, so I could use a short one and get a sharper image on high res high refresh rate modes.
- BNC input, which gives even sharper image. And allows to have two inputs connected without using a VGA KVM that in my experience degrades sharpness.
- Better border geometry, specially in corners. This tube looked like aperture grille instead of shadow mask like the Philips, but reading about it perhaps it has a slot mask (NEC Cromaclear) that's a hybrid of both. Anyways, I don't have a Trinitron to compare with but the image quality is just fantastic.
- MagicBright: the monitor image is relatively dark by default, I had to crank parameters to the max and even then I'd like to get 10% or so brighter image for common use. But the idea is if you want a brighter image you then use the MagicBright button, that increases the brights leaving the blacks practically untouched, so in fact increasing the dynamic range. This is sort of getting a "HDR" image from SDR content. The fact is, in dark games like Quake or Unreal, I set MagicBright to max position and it makes bright lights like candles or explosions super bright, but the dark part of image not washed out at all. Then when going back to desktop brights come to the default, which are pretty comfortable. And if I have reflections from the window in a sunny day I can also use the MagicBright button to get instant image compensation.
On the other hand the SyncMaster has a higher minimum horizontal refresh threshold and I had to work hard to get the real standard 640x400 video mode timings.
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Since then I've found a couple of 21" CRTs that I'd love to experience, but the price gets higher and most importantly I don't have enough space to place it without becoming a problem. So I'm happy for now, with the Philips as backup in case the Samsung dies some day in the future.
And a quick tip: increase the Saturation in the video card control panel output settings about 10%, these tubes can provide that extra colorful output without distortion.