Couldn't pass this P3B-F with 550 MHz P!!! so I got it.

Halofiber86 wrote on 2025-06-12, 00:16:

appiah4 wrote on 2025-06-11, 08:12:

Seller Photos.

Excuse me please, I'm just very curious, if what I see is a CNR slot up there. I just have never expected to see both ISA and CNR slots on the same board.

It's an AMR (Audio Modem Riser) slot.

Bought this a few days ago and it turned up today. £4.69 delivered 🤣. Cleaned up nicely and despite being untested , it's working perfectly.

Now if anyone needs me, I'll be chasing down rebel scum and bringing peace to the galaxy.

appiah4 wrote on 2025-06-12, 13:05:

It's an AMR (Audio Modem Riser) slot.

Thanks a lot, sir.

appiah4 wrote on 2025-06-12, 13:05:

It's an AMR (Audio Modem Riser) slot.

Thanks a lot, sir!

Lostdotfish wrote on 2025-06-12, 17:52:

Bought this a few days ago and it turned up today. £4.69 delivered 🤣. Cleaned up nicely and despite being untested , it's working perfectly.

The attachment PXL_20250612_174812327.jpg is no longer available

Now if anyone needs me, I'll be chasing down rebel scum and bringing peace to the galaxy.

Very nice and also clean. You should open it up and add a little bit of grease to the moving parts.

dominusprog wrote on Yesterday, 19:22:

Very nice and also clean. You should open it up and add a little bit of grease to the moving parts.

Is lithium grease ok?

Picked up these two boards.One with 386DX and a version of 80387DX. The other with Harris 8C286-15 and ITT 2C87-12.

The 286 board has PTL286-78 label but I can't find a thing about it. It's populated with 4 SIPs and has empty chip sockets for chip DRAM.

The 386 board has a Varta battery that seemed to have leaked. My first time dealing with this, but I guess there should be tutorials online, as it's pretty common fault of retro boards.

bocke wrote on Yesterday, 21:48:

Picked up these two boards.One with 386DX and a version of 80387DX. The other with Harris 8C286-15 and ITT 2C87-12. […]
Show full quote

Picked up these two boards.One with 386DX and a version of 80387DX. The other with Harris 8C286-15 and ITT 2C87-12.

The attachment board386.jpg is no longer available

The attachment board286.jpg is no longer available

The 286 board has PTL286-78 label but I can't find a thing about it. It's populated with 4 SIPs and has empty chip sockets for chip DRAM.

The 386 board has a Varta battery that seemed to have leaked. My first time dealing with this, but I guess there should be tutorials online, as it's pretty common fault of retro boards.

Your 286 board is here https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/unknown-pc-at-286-a
Indeed, not much information...

zuldan wrote on Yesterday, 21:09:

dominusprog wrote on Yesterday, 19:22:

Very nice and also clean. You should open it up and add a little bit of grease to the moving parts.

Is lithium grease ok?

I would use a little silicone grease since it'll be near electronic parts and lithium grease is slightly conductive and actually should be avoided anywhere near plastics and rubber parts as it'll degrade them over time as its usually petroleum based.

Silicone grease is also called dielectric grease and is stable around electronic parts and plastic/rubber parts, itll also help lubricate them too for the plastic switch parts.

vetz wrote on 2025-06-10, 13:32:

Artex wrote on 2025-06-10, 12:41:

I used a couple of Corsair ECC sticks. You can see my build here from several years back.

Artex's Build of the Week - Hammer Time!

Great to see you back in action here on Vogons Artex! I love those old build thread of yours. Any new updates soon?

I actually thought about you the other day, that some people used to laugh a bit on the prices you paid for certain items. Now it's a classical example on "who's laughing now" given how much the prices have increased last couple of years.

Hey there Vetz! I’m still around and collecting like crazy these days. I’m more of a lurker than poster on VOGONS admittedly but definitely still in the hobby and passionate about this stuff.

Yes, prices are bonkers but back that’s completely relative as they were bonkers back then too. The market is driven by what people pay I suppose and I’m admittedly guilty of of setting (or contributing to) “market prices” on eBay back then. I was hopeful that once we got through COVID that prices would stabilize a bit but yeah, it appears that’s not the case.

The barrier to entry persists, especially for the most sought after parts - but I feel that was still the case back when I started. Everything kind of shifts forward and everything is expensive these days it seems.

I’m still a massive fan and committed to the hobby, but I have most of my “want” list these days and am now focused on enjoying the unboxed/unsealed pieces.

Of course my family comes first and having a 9 year old (going on 16) keeps me busy!

VOGONS is always close by though!

zuldan wrote on 2025-06-10, 19:06:

Artex any chance you could fix your OneDrive link? Would like to see your collection.

For sure! Shoot me a pm and I’ll get you access. I’ve discontinued public access and will remove that sig link.

Cheers!

EduBat wrote on Today, 02:00:

Your 286 board is here https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/unknown-pc-at-286-a
Indeed, not much information...

Thanx, that's more information than what I found.

Strangely, the barrel battery looks fine. I'll probably replace it to decrease the risk.

bocke wrote on Today, 08:04:

Strangely, the barrel battery looks fine.

Because it's a GP brand and not a Varta 😀

zuldan wrote on Yesterday, 21:09:

dominusprog wrote on Yesterday, 19:22:

Very nice and also clean. You should open it up and add a little bit of grease to the moving parts.

Is lithium grease ok?

Personally, I used grease spray. But lithium grease is a good choice too, just make sure it's clean.

dominusprog wrote on Today, 15:20:

zuldan wrote on Yesterday, 21:09:

dominusprog wrote on Yesterday, 19:22:

Very nice and also clean. You should open it up and add a little bit of grease to the moving parts.

Is lithium grease ok?

Personally, I used grease spray. But lithium grease is a good choice too, just make sure it's clean.

Lithium grease isn't good for electronic parts or anything made from plastic or rubber, its slightly conductive and will degrade plastic/.rubber overtime .. silicone grease is safe and its what many electricians use since its inert to plastics and non conductive.

The conductive risk from lithium grease is low but why take any chances with retro parts when you don't have to.

Trashbytes wrote on Today, 02:14:

I would use a little silicone grease since it'll be near electronic parts and lithium grease is slightly conductive and actually should be avoided anywhere near plastics and rubber parts as it'll degrade them over time as its usually petroleum based.

Silicone grease is also called dielectric grease and is stable around electronic parts and plastic/rubber parts, itll also help lubricate them too for the plastic switch parts.

Going to try this https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-300g-specia … licone_p6100407

Sounds too good to be true. “Won’t attract dirt”

“ WD-40 Specialist® High Performance Silicone Lubricant solution is a non-staining, hardworking formula, which provides excellent lubrication, won’t attract dirt, and protects against moisture. It stops parts from sticking and can be used on high pressure equipment. This product can be used on metal, plastic, wood and rubber”

The moving parts are all nylon and were assembled dry from the factory. Nylon as a material has fairly low friction to start with.

I considered adding some grease but decided not to. The issue with grease on nylon parts is it turns into grinding paste with dust and any particles that make it into the mechanism.

I did flush the pots and add some switch lube to those however.

Lostdotfish wrote on Today, 17:20:

The moving parts are all nylon and were assembled dry from the factory. Nylon as a material has fairly low friction to start with.

I considered adding some grease but decided not to. The issue with grease on nylon parts is it turns into grinding paste with dust and any particles that make it into the mechanism.

I did flush the pots and add some switch lube to those however.

Kill many rebels ?

Trashbytes wrote on Today, 15:26:

dominusprog wrote on Today, 15:20:

zuldan wrote on Yesterday, 21:09:

Is lithium grease ok?

Personally, I used grease spray. But lithium grease is a good choice too, just make sure it's clean.

Lithium grease isn't good for electronic parts or anything made from plastic or rubber, its slightly conductive and will degrade plastic/.rubber overtime .. silicone grease is safe and its what many electricians use since its inert to plastics and non conductive.

The conductive risk from lithium grease is low but why take any chances with retro parts when you don't have to.

Oh, I didn't know it'll degrade the plastic. Good to know.