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What retro activity did you get up to today?

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Reply 29840 of 29866, by Aui

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I recently tried my first Slot1 build with a dead Abit AB-BH6. That board came to live again after a recap but it produced so many errors and crashes that I gave up. Now I have another try - this time with a BioStar Board. After a full clean and new battery it works flawlesly. In houses a Celeron 300 which I intent to replace with a PII 400 and a simple CD drive which will be replaced with a SCSI PlextWriter. I have a feling this is going to be an awesome time machine (Late DOS to early Win9x ca 1996 - 1998). This machine probably deserves a Voodoo 2 card - but alas - I dont have one.

The attachment 20250705_082711.jpg is no longer available

Reply 29841 of 29866, by Trashbytes

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Spent the last couple of weeks going through my AGP GPU collection and have managed to isolate 6 dead ones that wont be returning to service. One was a nice HIS 2600XT which promptly let out the angry pixie dust when supplied with power, just glad it didn't take anything else with it. Physically doesn't look at have anything wrong with it aside from burnt traces next to the molex socket and a ferrite choke type part that is totally toast. Im not even going to attempt any repairs on these dead cards, they have already had long lives and now get to rest and they are also pretty easy to replace being rather common variants.

Another was a 7300 GT AGP which hard reset the PC when I fired it up and promptly stank the room out, cant see any burst caps on it but the GPU core looks like its burnt I'm assuming the core got a few to many angry pixies trying to book a room and failed with style.

I did salvage the coolers from them and was going to spares the boards but I really want to get away from having to do repairs so these boards will go into the local e-waste bin.

Reply 29842 of 29866, by Living

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Trashbytes wrote on 2025-07-05, 07:07:

but I really want to get away from having to do repairs

Sin-t-tulo.png

you just cant in this hobby especially with old hardware, something always gonna break

Reply 29843 of 29866, by PTherapist

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Today I socketed and fitted a new 464 RAM chip to an Amstrad GX4000 games console that I got about a week or so ago "untested" from eBay. The original RAM chip (a Sanyo LM33464G-12) was getting too hot to touch after only seconds of applying power to the console, so I knew it was definitely dead. I replaced it with a TMS4464-12NL. I didn't remove the other Sanyo RAM chip, as it wasn't getting hot.

This console also has a broken Player 1 controller port, with missing pins for all of the fire buttons, so I had no idea what other damage it might have, nor did I know if the other RAM chip was faulty. But I connected the console back up, put in the Burnin' Rubber cartridge and powered it on. Immediately it sprang to life playing the game music, but there was absolutely no video from the Scart output. I tested via the RGB DIN output and it was indeed outputting video fine, so this console apparently also has a dead Sony CXA1145P RGB encoder chip too.

I'm not too bothered about the broken RGB encoder for now, as I can use the DIN & I don't need the RF output, so I won't bother replacing that just yet. But tomorrow I'm going to attempt a simple bodge repair for the controller port, with jumper wires & a 9-pin extension cable.

Reply 29844 of 29866, by Trashbytes

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Living wrote on 2025-07-05, 12:06:
https://i.ibb.co/szpByF7/Sin-t-tulo.png […]
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Trashbytes wrote on 2025-07-05, 07:07:

but I really want to get away from having to do repairs

Sin-t-tulo.png

you just cant in this hobby especially with old hardware, something always gonna break

The attachment darth-luke-talk-2.jpg is no longer available

Yup and if it does I will just replace it unless its rare enough to warrant repairs. ..best to not post any more pics .. mods might get mad 🤣

Reply 29845 of 29866, by ODwilly

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I bought a 42 inch Dell 1024x768 Dell Plasma screen TV for $20. It has some glass delamination issues, but the picture is fantastic. Also rust on the screws that hold it together, which may explain the issues with the glass. Even came with the remote!

Main pc: Asus ROG 17. R9 5900HX, RTX 3070m, 16gb ddr4 3200, 1tb NVME.
Retro PC: Soyo P4S Dragon, 3gb ddr 266, 120gb Maxtor, Geforce Fx 5950 Ultra, SB Live! 5.1

Reply 29846 of 29866, by gmaverick2k

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Getting a retro XP build with the DFI Lanparty as the centerpiece. Specs so far:
AMD Opteron 180 Athlon 64 3200+
DFI LANParty UT nF3 Ultra-D
2 x 1GB DDR400 Kingston KVR
ATi Radeon X800 256MB AGP
Soundblaster Audigy 2zs
128GB Sandisk SSD
SATA DVDRW
Corsair AX1200i
file.php?mode=view&id=222866
...and can't seem to get past windows setup...
Pulled out the Opteron, running hot and xp setup gets stuck. managed to snap off pin on an athlon 64 3200+
Now when I try run dul channel get beeps so single channel 64-bit it is
Update2: Installed catalyst 7.11, had issues with SMARTGART. installed nforce drivers from dfi cd, finally got it working at full x8 speeds. thought winxp integral edition would have everything setup

"What's all this racket going on up here, son? You watchin' yer girl cartoons again?"

Reply 29847 of 29866, by brostenen

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I took a look at the OG/Classic Xbox that I recently bought. Clock cap where removed, but 3 CPU caps where bulging. So I recapped today. 3300uF 6,3v each. I gave it Panasonic caps.

Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

My blog: http://to9xct.blogspot.dk
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/brostenen

001100 010010 011110 100001 101101 110011

Reply 29848 of 29866, by nd22

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I just installed again Unreal tournement 2004 - GOG release. What map is best to assess the computer's performance? DM - antalus would be good?

Reply 29849 of 29866, by DarthSun

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nd22 wrote on 2025-07-06, 16:18:

I just installed again Unreal tournement 2004 - GOG release. What map is best to assess the computer's performance? DM - antalus would be good?

DM-Deck17

The attachment 225621_j0fk15aqan0dxvce_x99_8600gts_ut2004_1280_deck.jpg is no longer available

There's a lot of space on the field, that's why I'm used to it.

The 3 body problems cannot be solved, neither for future quantum computers, even for the remainder of the universe. The Proton 2D is circling a planet and stepping back to the quantum size in 11 dimensions.

Reply 29850 of 29866, by nd22

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I got that!
But how do you use Umark? It is not working for me! Every single time I tried to bechmark I got this:

Reply 29851 of 29866, by DarthSun

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nd22 wrote on 2025-07-07, 02:42:

I got that!
But how do you use Umark? It is not working for me! Every single time I tried to bechmark I got this:

I think nothing extra. More or less the user manual...

UnrealTournament 2004 1280x1024 def DM-Deck FPS demo: Usage - I install the UT2004 game. Then I install UMark-v200, then I start the latter (the game does not need to be started). I select, for example, the DM-Deck.UT2 track and the resolution to 1280x1024, as can be seen in my screenshot. Then I start it with the Benchmark button. It automatically starts the game, measures, closes the game, and prints the result. If you need a default measurement, you do not need to change anything after installing the game, just check the Current Settings switch in UMark.

The 3 body problems cannot be solved, neither for future quantum computers, even for the remainder of the universe. The Proton 2D is circling a planet and stepping back to the quantum size in 11 dimensions.

Reply 29852 of 29866, by H3nrik V!

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Testing these two Milleniums (or Millenia?)

Re: Bought these (retro) hardware today

Re: Old hardware giveaway thread.

[Edit]: And with this post even got to 1337 status on vogons 😎

If it's dual it's kind of cool ... 😎

--- GA586DX --- P2B-DS --- BP6 ---

Please use the "quote" option if asking questions to what I write - it will really up the chances of me noticing 😀

Reply 29853 of 29866, by gmaverick2k

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Reverted back to a 3570k, gtx 960, H61, asus xonar dx, ssd build with AHCI activated in a lenovo thinkcentre e72 chassis, less headache and just works. sandybridge onwards was pure stability. gtx 960 is quieter and locked to 60Hz anyway because i'm using an hp e241i 1920x1200 ips, showing as 1600x1200. Really like the brightness and detail from the hp monitor, no gimmicks

"What's all this racket going on up here, son? You watchin' yer girl cartoons again?"

Reply 29854 of 29866, by Thermalwrong

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Board repair of a Toshiba Satellite 4000CDT motherboard where the batteries had leaked quite badly - when I first powered it up the laptop worked fine but after a few minutes it made a horrific screeching sound and I turned it off then took it apart. There was *loads* of green corrosion looking quite similar to this one: Re: Toshiba Satellite 310CDS battery/vinegar damage is it fixable?

The corrosion cleaned up with my ceramic scraper and isopropyl alcohol but after the cleaning the speakers didn't work. Also before cleaning the AC-In and On LEDs weren't working right, just being really dim and not behaving like they're supposed to. The speakers not working is I think some headphone jack detection circuitry no longer working properly, since the speaker amp chips are not near the corrosion at all and the headphones still work fine.

The attachment satellite-4000cdt-board-repair.JPG is no longer available

Today I got the microscope back out and started randomly probing - found the main culprit in a couple of minutes which was that the ground was no longer connected to that small black 5-pin chip and the adjacent cap. Looking around more found some more dodgy traces, a trace with a test-pad that no longer had continuity by where it says "PJ 802" and the small trace coming off the capacitor that passes through the "PJ 15" text.
With those repaired the sound is back to normal and the LEDs now all work properly 😀
In the process the RTC battery has diodes added and a cable into the HDD bay so that a CR2032 can be installed & replaced easily just opening the hard disk cover.

The other week I purposely bought another Kapok laptop with destroyed hinges, because I like Kapok laptops and it was cheap because broken:

The attachment hinges-5400pt-broken.jpg is no longer available

The white cheap epoxy stuff I have seems to be great for plastic repairs, unlike the brittle clear resin, this white stuff sets quickly and forms into something resembling plastic. Because it sets very quickly it can be shaped before its set and I use blutack to make a form for the new hinge parts with some metal reinforcement, some copper coated staple things I got off of a big cardboard box before it was recycled.

The attachment kapok-making-hinge-material.jpg is no longer available

One side went great and the new screw mounts on that side are holding up, but the other side the epoxy didn't stick to the shape properly. Maybe I didn't do enough surface prep and maybe I moved the hinge before it had set properly, not sure.
To fix that I melted some divots into the lid plastic and epoxy and pushed them together, then put fresh epoxy on the outside again using blutack to control where it went. The divots give more surface area and locking features for the epoxy to grip onto.
This time it held up and the hinges look pretty decent with some paint on them:

The attachment kapok-fixed-hinges.jpg is no longer available

The hinges themselves caused this damage, they were really stiff somehow, maybe from hardened grease? So I had to disassemble the whole top cover and there were nylock nuts I could loosen to reduce the hinge resistance slightly. The hinges are a little floppy now but the screen holds up and it puts less pressure on the repaired areas.

Reply 29855 of 29866, by momaka

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OK, so some updates on the below, even though this wasn't done today:

momaka wrote on 2025-06-22, 08:06:

Hopefully will have enough energy today (sick with some kind of a stomach bug the last few days) to finish putting back together some of the retro GPUs and mobos I have taken apart for cleaning. The list is pretty long, though, so I'll probably start with the GPUs. I have 3x GF 4 MX-440, an FX 5200, a Radeon 9600 Pro, and Radeon HD 3450 AGP all waiting to be tested.

So I only had enough energy that day to test a few of the cards - namely, one of the MX-440's, the FX5200, Radeon 9600 Pro, and Radeon HD 3450 AGP.

The MX-440 worked as I expected. Nice card with 128-bit memory bus *and* DDR memory chips. What a great budget DX-7 video card this is!

The FX 5200 also worked, no surprises. 64-bit memory bus, so it's more sluggish. But for some early DX 8/9 games on lower settings and lower resolution (800x600), it still offers playable performance.

Next, the Gigabyte Radeon 9600 Pro.
Sadly, this one needs a bit of work. But fortunately nothing too crazy - has a cracked series termination array resistor on one of the RAM modules (card probably took a hit somewhere.) So it was displaying artifacts in both Windows and in games, but not crashing. I actually took a video and some screenshots for shits and giggles. Trying to finish stage 1 in Sweeden on Collin McRae Rally 04 (a stage that I know like the back of my hand) was comically challenging with all of the messed up textures and geometry in the game. 🤣 I don't have the picture on me right now, but I'll try to post them here some day.

Last but not least...

momaka wrote on 2025-06-22, 08:06:

... and I'd like to put a heatsink on the HD3450's Realto AGP IC before testing it out, as it's summer and a bit hotter here now. These cards simply don't last when the Realto IC runs hot... that is, if it's even working to begin with. I got that HD3450 for $2.50. Its fan was seized and cooler caked in nicotine-soaked dust (likely a smoker's PC), so not too hopeful.

^ And that one's dead. No surprise. Either Realto or GPU chip is bad. Probably the former, though, because when the fan on the GPU stops working, the whole PCB gets even hotter (as the GPU is dissipating heat through its BGA down on the PCB.) With that, the Realto probably reached even higher temperatures than it was already running (and it already runs too hot as-is on these cards.)
Ah well, at least it's an ASUS card with decent quality caps, so I can always reuse those on another card. That alone is worth money I paid for it. But I won't leave it alone before attempting a few "reflows"/reheat cycles on both the GPU and Realto IC anyways. If it comes back to life, I'll hack it with an oversized cooler and see how long it lasts. I've done that to quite a few cards and many are still working.

Trashbytes wrote on 2025-06-23, 08:35:

Tested this 5900Xt that arrived today, it works just fine but I will need to find a solution for the fans, they work ok but the method used to hold them in the cooler was poorly designed so they are not held in that great. Might need to find a 3rd party cooler solution for it or find a method of fixing how the fans are held in the cooler.

The attachment FX5900Xt Front.jpg is no longer available

Nice card... but yeah, given the fan setup, I would replace those right away before using it. No way that cooler with those fans is adequate to keep the card cool enough and not make it die over time.

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2025-06-23, 14:25:

If someone wants to collect them with the original cooler style, they can have all the dead cards that were run too long with bad fans. There are thousands of them out there floating around (either FX series or 6000 series).

Yeah, I never understood that logic of people collecting old GPUs and running them with the crappy stock cooler just to have it "all original". I mean, I do it only when the cooler is actually capable of keeping the card cool *AND* isn't too noisy... which is almost never the case with old video cards. That said, rare cases do exist. For example, I bought several GeForce 4 MX-440 cards recently, and on some of thees, the stock cooler is pretty acceptable both in terms of noise and cooling performance. Actually, since MX cards tend to run pretty cool overall, I will probably still install a series resistor for the fan on those coolers to make them a little more quiet (and last longer too.) FWIW, the GPU temperatures were OK even with the fans barely moving (had two of these with the fans malfunctioning - one completely dead, and the other grinding and barely turning.)

Trashbytes wrote on 2025-06-23, 16:06:

I would switch them out for some Noctua 40/50 mm fans, they are small and quiet.

... but those might not move enough air. :\

Just my 2 cents, but I find Noctua is way too over-hyped around here. Yes, they are good quality, but at rather steep prices. You can get a good quality and quiet fan for much less on Mouser or Digikey from a known brand and still get the same cooling performance and quietness.

As someone else put it here, Noctua is to fans as Apple is to computers: both get the job done, but at very inflated prices.

Trashbytes wrote on 2025-07-05, 07:07:

I did salvage the coolers from them and was going to spares the boards but I really want to get away from having to do repairs so these boards will go into the local e-waste bin.

Why not put them on ebay for $0.99 starting bid as a lot instead? Even if they aren't anything special, more decent AGP cards will still sell (even without the coolers).

The 7300 GT for example, might just need a new MOSFET or two. That's how I got my 7600 GS AGP - burned hi-side MOSFET on the GPU. Trying it in a system would just trigger the PSUs crowbar / short-circuit protection. I thought it'be dead, since shorted hi-side MOSFET means the GPU chip could have seen the full 12V rail. Turns out, it somehow didn't and was fine after the MOSFET replacement. Still works 10 years later now. I got without the cooler too, so had to make my own at the time... which I'm glad I did - it turned out pretty well and keeps the card nice and cool (important for a bump-gate card.)

Reply 29856 of 29866, by Nexxen

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Thermalwrong wrote on 2025-07-08, 02:57:
Board repair of a Toshiba Satellite 4000CDT motherboard where the batteries had leaked quite badly - when I first powered it up […]
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Board repair of a Toshiba Satellite 4000CDT motherboard where the batteries had leaked quite badly - when I first powered it up the laptop worked fine but after a few minutes it made a horrific screeching sound and I turned it off then took it apart. There was *loads* of green corrosion looking quite similar to this one: Re: Toshiba Satellite 310CDS battery/vinegar damage is it fixable?

The corrosion cleaned up with my ceramic scraper and isopropyl alcohol but after the cleaning the speakers didn't work. Also before cleaning the AC-In and On LEDs weren't working right, just being really dim and not behaving like they're supposed to. The speakers not working is I think some headphone jack detection circuitry no longer working properly, since the speaker amp chips are not near the corrosion at all and the headphones still work fine.

The attachment satellite-4000cdt-board-repair.JPG is no longer available

Today I got the microscope back out and started randomly probing - found the main culprit in a couple of minutes which was that the ground was no longer connected to that small black 5-pin chip and the adjacent cap. Looking around more found some more dodgy traces, a trace with a test-pad that no longer had continuity by where it says "PJ 802" and the small trace coming off the capacitor that passes through the "PJ 15" text.
With those repaired the sound is back to normal and the LEDs now all work properly 😀
In the process the RTC battery has diodes added and a cable into the HDD bay so that a CR2032 can be installed & replaced easily just opening the hard disk cover.

The other week I purposely bought another Kapok laptop with destroyed hinges, because I like Kapok laptops and it was cheap because broken:

The attachment hinges-5400pt-broken.jpg is no longer available

The white cheap epoxy stuff I have seems to be great for plastic repairs, unlike the brittle clear resin, this white stuff sets quickly and forms into something resembling plastic. Because it sets very quickly it can be shaped before its set and I use blutack to make a form for the new hinge parts with some metal reinforcement, some copper coated staple things I got off of a big cardboard box before it was recycled.

The attachment kapok-making-hinge-material.jpg is no longer available

One side went great and the new screw mounts on that side are holding up, but the other side the epoxy didn't stick to the shape properly. Maybe I didn't do enough surface prep and maybe I moved the hinge before it had set properly, not sure.
To fix that I melted some divots into the lid plastic and epoxy and pushed them together, then put fresh epoxy on the outside again using blutack to control where it went. The divots give more surface area and locking features for the epoxy to grip onto.
This time it held up and the hinges look pretty decent with some paint on them:

The attachment kapok-fixed-hinges.jpg is no longer available

The hinges themselves caused this damage, they were really stiff somehow, maybe from hardened grease? So I had to disassemble the whole top cover and there were nylock nuts I could loosen to reduce the hinge resistance slightly. The hinges are a little floppy now but the screen holds up and it puts less pressure on the repaired areas.

Nice job there!!

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PC#2 PIII-1Ghz - 98SE/W2K

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Reply 29857 of 29866, by octopus

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I've been working on a socket 7 build in one of the best ever cases imho.
Today, for the first time ever, I've added a bit of light.
My thought: if it's about the old hardware, you might as well give it some spotlight.

Reply 29858 of 29866, by PcBytes

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I can confirm that - I have an Aspire X-Cruiser on the way. I'm actually undecided if I should save and buy a BX2000 PLUS for it or go with something newer.

"Enter at your own peril, past the bolted door..."
Main PC: i5 3470, GB B75M-D3H, 16GB RAM, 2x1TB
98SE : P3 650, Soyo SY-6BA+IV, 384MB RAM, 80GB

Reply 29859 of 29866, by mbbrutman

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Today's project ... maintenance on the IBM Portable PC

  • Figuring out what is causing the screen to wiggle. (I think it was oxidized connectors.)
  • Removing and cleaning both QumeTrak 142 floppy drives.
  • Installing an 8-bit NE2000 Ethernet card.

Everything works and there are no spare screws or parts laying around so it was a good day. ;-0

2025-07-09_IBM_5155_Internals.jpg
2025-07-09_IBM_5155_back_together.jpg