VOGONS


First post, by Outer_Zevin

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I don't have any experience with building a legacy PCs, so forgive any ignorance here, but I recently came into a handful of parts and the desire of building some approximation of "the PC I always wished I had as a kid" came over me.

Here's the parts I have on hand:

- Pentium MMX 233 Mhz
- Pentium MMX 166 Mhz
- ASUS P/I-P55T2P4 Rev 3.10
- 32 MB of RAM
- ATI MACH64 WinCharger video card
- Diamond Stealth 3D 2000 Pro 4 MB video card
- Creative Labs CT6670 Voodoo 2

Still need a sound card (keeping and eye on AWE 64 Gold cards right now), drives, case, etc. but before I go any further further, I'd like to see if I can get a system that will post, so I need to get my hands on a reliable PSU and was looking for recommendations on this. I'm not opposed to buying and old, well regarded unit and recapping it if necessary, as I've recapped plenty of older game consoles, but if it can be avoided, I'd love that for me.

Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice. I'm looking forward to adding a retro PC to my gaming set up.

Reply 1 of 8, by jakethompson1

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I just use a new ATX power supply with an ATX-AT adapter. Make sure it has enough "Molex" and "floppy" connectors for your needs. There are imbalances between what a new supply provides on 5V and 12V and an early 2000s Athlon system, for example, but your system doesn't use enough power for that to matter.

Reply 2 of 8, by crusher

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I have very good experiences with EVGA 450W + 500W models.
They still have 24-Pin MB connector and even Molex + Floppy.

Reply 3 of 8, by Outer_Zevin

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crusher wrote on 2025-07-16, 06:12:

I have very good experiences with EVGA 450W + 500W models.
They still have 24-Pin MB connector and even Molex + Floppy.

I linked one below and it looks like there is a floppy/molex cable in there, just wanting to make sure I'm getting the right thing before I pull the trigger on something. Will that work and if not, could you link me to a model you recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Modular-Wa … ics%2C92&sr=1-1

Reply 4 of 8, by DEAT

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Corsair CX650/CX650M have done the job for me - they provide 20A of 5V (or 25A if you can find a CX650M, which appears to be discontinued) and has a split 20+4 ATX connector.

win16.page | Twitch

Reply 6 of 8, by crusher

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Outer_Zevin wrote on 2025-07-16, 16:50:

I linked one below and it looks like there is a floppy/molex cable in there, just wanting to make sure I'm getting the right thing before I pull the trigger on something. Will that work and if not, could you link me to a model you recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Modular-Wa … ics%2C92&sr=1-1

Floppy I can see. But I am missing Molex on this one.

Reply 7 of 8, by momaka

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Dell HP-P2507F3P
enough said. 😉

... or anything with a *P2507F** in the model number. HiPro is the parent company / manufacturer of these, and one of the highest-quality OEMs, IMO. So these PSUs may also be branded as their own (HiPro) or as Chicony. I think HP also used these for some of their systems at the time (mid 2000's.)

These PSUs are basically tanks. They offer a very balanced 5V/12V group regulation, making them suitable for both old 5V-heavy systems and newer 12V-based systems (they often came with Pentium 4 Dell systems from 2003-2006.) Typical output wire arrangement is a std. 20-pin ATX connector, 4 or 5x molex drive connectors, and one or two floppy connectors... so good enough for most retro builds. Only slight downside is the lack of a -5V rail, which shouldn't be a huge deal, except for some very specific ISA cards that actually need it.

The reason I like this PSU and other similar models from HiPro is because they have a lot of space for the output filter caps inside - most caps are 12.5 mm in diameter. So when recapping, it's really easy to source caps for these PSUs. Also, while recapping these PSUs is recommended, I find a good deal of them are still perfectly usable with the original caps. My general rule is, if I see one bulging cap in these, I recap them. But if I don't, then frequently I use them as-is. They are so over-built that usually a bulging cap or two will not make them produce excess ripple & noise in most cases - though at that point, a recap should be planned, as one bulged cap means the other ones are probably also close to EOL or already there but not showing it yet.

This specific PSU aside, I also like the newer HiPros too. Namely, HP-P3017F3... though these are from the late 2000's and usually come with 4x SATA power connectors instead of 4 molex. So they are not as retro-friendly "out-of-the-box" without adapters. But other than that, they too have a pretty solid 5V rail and excellent cross-loading performance.

Alternatives from other manufacturers like Delta, LiteON, and Bestec are also good.
Be extremely *careful* with Bestec, though. The one model of theirs to AVOID is the ATX-250-12E - it's a known motherboard killer *when* (not if) its 5VSB circuit fails.
The nearly-similarly named model, ATX-250-12Z is built differently and completely fine, though.

Delta also had some designs similar to the problematic Bestec mentioned above, but somehow they just didn't seem to fail as catastrophically... and not as often either. No specific model numbers of these, as most are always in the form of DPS-xxxyy, where xxx is a number usually the same as the max rating of the PSU (e.g. DPS-300yy = 300 Watt PSU model, and DPS-250yy = 250 Watt) and "yy" is a 2-letter code that is more specific to different PSU models (e.g. DPS-300AB and DPS-300KB are very different PSUs in terms of layout inside and also some parts of the design.)

Reply 8 of 8, by chinny22

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I was trying to standardise all my builds with Corsair modular PSU's.
I like modular as you can remove the useless SATA/PCIe cables and you use the same brand across multiple PC's you can use spare cables from the other PSU if needed.
Only problem I have with Corsair now is the ATX connecter no longer has 24 + 4 breakaway connector.