Thermalwrong wrote on 2025-05-28, 00:52:

Savior_04 wrote on 2025-05-27, 13:21:

Thermalwrong wrote on 2025-05-27, 03:08:

Sure, I bumped into the same problem recently. It requires a mod to the CD-ROM caddy connector just like the Toshiba laptops: Pr […]
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Sure, I bumped into the same problem recently. It requires a mod to the CD-ROM caddy connector just like the Toshiba laptops: Problem with use of modern ATAPI device in 1990s Toshiba 470cdt / 490xcdt / 530cdt and similar retro laptops
My Armada 1700's CD-ROM drive was useless and failing to read everything, so I tried putting a DVD/CDRW drive in and it did what you describe where the laptop wouldn't boot.

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I'm not quite sure of the logic because testing in DOS confirms that the CD-ROM is on the primary IDE channel as a slave device, probably a conflict on the IDE channel causes the laptop to not boot when you fit a regular drive:

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The fix was to put a dot of solder between pins 47 and 45 of the flex cable connector that plugs into the optical drive:

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Hope that works for other people, still not quite sure of the logic here since the mod I'm doing should force it to be a master on the IDE channel? But it works for me.

Hi, I too have problems with the player not working as it should and I tried to install a player very similar to yours with the modification you recommended but it didn't work for me, it gets stuck on the Compaq screen and the hdd light stays on all the time.

Yeah now I've posted about it, I'm not entirely sure the fix I've suggested is the one that worked. IT's entirely possible I just kept trying different drives til it worked, but I do seem to recall that the little solder bridge did make a difference.

Ok thanks for the clarification. I should be receiving some DVD players soon, I will try to use several with the bridge you recommended and I will write the results.

Hey ho guys. I'm chiming back in here after being gone for so long. It's taken me a while for me to get back around to working on this laptop. I'm posting this because my Armada is suffering from bad, brittle plastic, and it is cracking near its hindges. I've bought two Armada 1750s, and it has been happening to both 😭 I'm wondering if anyone else here has had a problem with this and what you did to help remedy it. I have been looking at plastic welding and using staples to help fasten the crack. This won't look pretty, but at least it might work. Or I've also seen people use the thickest of guitar pics and welding those. I'm wondering if anyone here's got any other ideas before I pick it up and start working on it. Thanks guys.

I think I would start look at the root cause, the hingest being too stiff and lubricate them if needed. also see to that it is screwed properly into the frame and is not loose. Maybe you could try to patch the crack from the inside with some cyanoacrylate glue and baking soda. Usually it becomes pretty strong.

Joakim wrote on 2025-09-21, 12:09:

I think I would start look at the root cause, the hingest being too stiff and lubricate them if needed. also see to that it is screwed properly into the frame and is not loose. Maybe you could try to patch the crack from the inside with some cyanoacrylate glue and baking soda. Usually it becomes pretty strong.

I think all of these are good ideas. I will try to apply some WD-40 to the hindges joints and make sure they are screwed in tight. I had to do a transplant (remember I said I've bought two?) of one working monitor to one that was not. So I do know how to open it up. And just doing some quick reading, the cyanoacrylate glue (or super glue) and baking soda seems to be the best way to bond it. I will try it myself before I try any plastic welding. Thanks for your help man. I'll chime back in here with pics when I start on this project.