mtest001 wrote on 2025-10-13, 14:15:

Do you have a good tutorial for this ?

I need to do the same to my 4080 super. Performance is penalized by thermal throttling atm.

There are loads of videos on YouTube which showcase GPU undervolting, such as this one for example. You may want to look for one that specifically targets the RTX 4080 Super.

Something to keep in mind: how well a GPU undervolts depends on the silicon lottery. Also, it can take a lot of trial and error to find a stable undervolt value, but the end result is definitively worth it.

Built a decent Proxmox-based home server, at last.

As the case didn't have any system to hold 3.5" HDDs, I had to design and 3D print my own brackets for that. Took quite a bit of test-fitting as I had about 3mm spare to play for the whole stack. I also ordered a super slim (27mm total height) CPU cooler from AliExpress. Otherwise the idea of 3x 3.5" HDDs would have only stayed as a dream.

I think the result is pretty decent now. I wonder, what could I install on it?

Specs

• CPU: Intel i7-4790, 3.60GHz (4 cores, 8 threads)
• MOBO: Asus H81I-PLUS
• RAM: 2x8GB DDR3
• SSD: Samsung 870 EVO 250GB
• HDDs: 3x Toshiba MG06ACA Series 6TB @ RAIDZ1
• Optical: Disconnected, plugging the hole
• OS: Proxmox

Designed and printed myself a "quick and dirty" camera mount for my new FlashForge AD5X. It uses the two screws left over from shipping for the LCD screen to mount, came out good. 😀

The official $40 FlashForge camera is.... OK.... but it seems to be hit and miss on quality, responsiveness, connectivity. Using a 3rd party USB camera with the AD5X does not currently work. So, I decided to just run a straight USB camera right to my PC (10ft away) and simply use OBS to monitor my prints. Like I said, quick and dirty DIY, but it works and does what I need it to do.

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2025-10-11, 19:24:

Tried undervolting my RTX 3060 via MSI Afterburner, specifically using the curve editor. Managed to shave off 48W without lowering the boost clock from its usual value. The GPU temperature under full load also dropped by around 9C, which is pretty awesome. As an extra bonus, the card is now much quieter as well.

Really happy with these results.

Today, I cleaned the card and repasted it with Duronaut, which made the temperature drop by another 6C. For reference, I bought this Gainward RTX 3060 12GB second hand, so I knew I'd need to do this eventually. However, the procedure didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped.

After my initial repaste attempt, the temperature actually increased by 7C, which left me very confused. So I re-opened the card, and double checked everything. While meticulously examining the photos that I took earlier, I realized my mistake. Turns out I accidentally put the plastic shim that sits around the core the wrong way (rotated clockwise), which likely prevented the GPU die from making proper contact with the heatsink. After that was sorted out, I repasted the card once again, closed everything up, and braced myself for the result. This time, everything was ok, and GPU temperature dropped by the aforementioned 6C.

If anyone's curious, I used MSI Kombustor for putting the card under full load, while keeping the fan speed fixed at 70% via MSI Afterburner. This ensured that my "before" and "after" measurements would be consistent, as long as ambient temperature remained the same of course. After all that effort with undervolting and repasting, my card now tops out at 57C under full load, when fan speed is fixed at 70% and with an ambient temperature of 21C. If I put the fan back to "Auto" (which is the default setting) GPU temperature hovers around 64C in demanding games that nearly max out the load. The card is also blissfully quiet now, which is what I was actually aiming for. Good times!

Plugged my PS5 controller to the PC to see what happens. I see it has a speaker, but for some reason in Windows audio settings, only surround 4.0 speaker setup is selectable. I notice buttons are detectable in Windows joystick settings. Not much works in games, though I only tried few (very) old ones.

I wonder if I could get the speaker working.

Edit: Found DualSenseX.

I got a new iPhone!

No, not really. However my "old" iPhone 13 certainly feels like a new one after a couple of key upgrades. First, I managed to replace the battery, which after three years of abuse could only hold 73% of its original capacity. Not a fun operation, but at least a successful one thanks to ifixit.

Then i upgraded to iOS 26, which has that new glass-infused theme. Which in all honesty, I can't say I totally dig just yet. But hey, massively improved battery life and twice the iOS per unit of iPhone...for peanuts? I'll take it, gladly!

I should be set for another three years.

Released a third part of my Building an Enterprise Data Access Layer series: Automated Auditing.

Sometimes the SSD in my "modern" desktop is not detected during POST, and in rare occasions it can be lost during boot or shortly thereafter (upon which Windows hangs).
However, typically it works for days on, and there are no errors.

Board is 7.5 years old, SSD is 6.5 years old. There are two NVMe slots on the motherboard, so the easiest thing is to try putting the SSD in the other one, which I will do.
For starts I did a full backup of the system partition, just in case it is the drive that is dying.

dr_st wrote on Today, 08:41:

Sometimes the SSD in my "modern" desktop is not detected during POST, and in rare occasions it can be lost during boot or shortl […]
Show full quote

Sometimes the SSD in my "modern" desktop is not detected during POST, and in rare occasions it can be lost during boot or shortly thereafter (upon which Windows hangs).
However, typically it works for days on, and there are no errors.

Board is 7.5 years old, SSD is 6.5 years old. There are two NVMe slots on the motherboard, so the easiest thing is to try putting the SSD in the other one, which I will do.
For starts I did a full backup of the system partition, just in case it is the drive that is dying.

I recently had something similar and I reflashed the bios. It solved the issue.
It was a 4th gen i7 with a Z87 board, no nvme there.

Switched from official Magisk to Magisk Alpha on the smartphone. It seems to be better at hiding root, I didn't have to purge configurations and reinstall modules either.