Almost 100% sure you will not find them new.

However, if you get a micrometer and measure the diameter of each gear as well as the diameter of the shafts the gears mount on and the height of the gears and if that large gear needs a clip to hold it on, how deep the indentation is it should be super simple to 3d print new gears. I would use ABS filament or possibly nylon.

Any good CAD software will have a gear option that your just input the parameters and it will make the gear.

Even FreeCAD has that available if I remember correctly.

Almost 100% sure you will not find them new.

Yes - thats what I thought too. Well maybe I keep it as a future project when I have got 3D printer and learn some CAD 😉

Had a similar issue and managed to fix it in the end. I'll attach a picture with my fix and and eBay link with the part that's similar to what I've got. It's a copper replacement so definitely more durable.
I think I had to do some slight modifications to fit, I think its height was too big or some-such, that was last year so can't remember exactly, but it wasn't too difficult.

Eddit: added link

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/197486047079?itmm … XEAAOSwH69e3jmj

Hard to tell for sure looking at the photo, but it seems the problem is the smaller of the two gears, which (you glued?) has a wider area around one of the teeth which now gets jammed into the teeth of the larger gear as they rotate together?

I'd probably take a very small triangular file and see it I could pair the enlarged tooth area down to fit - very little bit at a time, you want "just enough" as you want as much of the glue remaining for support as possible.

You should be able to feel it bind as you manually move the mechanism, so I'd go just enough to have it move fairly freely.

The small gear broke and OP attempted a fix. Once the gear breaks you will never get it back the way it was. Attempting to fix it results in the OP's problem of basically getting stuck. Replacement is the only way that will keep you sane.

Yes, my original fix was actually quite good (even without any deformation) but the next day I had to pry in the small brass axis back into theat gear. Inevitably this loosened up my fix again and deformed the gear wheel again. I think those brass gears look quite promising. I may give this a try. Judging from the picture, its exactly the same issue. Great the someone has been able to fix that.

I've had surprisingly good results with things like this using a good strong construction glue (the kind contractors use)

Also, hard to tell from the photo, but looks like there is room to put a good layer on top (which you'd then have to drill down through to access the mount - you could drill up with a very small drill to find the center, then drill down with a larger drill) - and depending on the exact design, you might even get a thin layer on the bottom) - important: make sure it's good and clean before starting, and make sure it is fully dry before you try it.

But I do agree - it's still a "long shot" - in resurrecting some very old systems (see "Daves Old Computers") - I've had to take some long shorts from time to time, and some of them have worked out ok.

DaveDDS wrote on 2025-12-10, 11:04:

Hard to tell for sure looking at the photo, but it seems the problem is the smaller of the two gears, which (you glued?) has a wider area around one of the teeth which now gets jammed into the teeth of the larger gear as they rotate together?

I'd probably take a very small triangular file and see it I could pair the enlarged tooth area down to fit - very little bit at a time, you want "just enough" as you want as much of the glue remaining for support as possible.

You should be able to feel it bind as you manually move the mechanism, so I'd go just enough to have it move fairly freely.

I would second this, with a small alteration.

It's possible to 'ghetto fab' a replacement gear from a suitably durable material that can stand up to being filed to mate up correctly.

There's a very old video on youtube for 'protoputty'. It's basically 1tbs or so of water, whipped into the vinegar smelling type of silicone bathroom caulk, then mixed with cornstarch until a kneadable 'dough' is made.

It's great for making simple impression molds for 'prismatic' items like gears.

Coat the source gear with a thin coating of light oil so the putty wont stick, then press it into the prepared putty to make a simple impression mold of the 'fixed' gear.

Once the putty cures (24hr), just bend the mold and pop the gear out.

Then, mix some slow setting 2part epoxy, and pour it into the mold. Wait the prescribed cure time, then file the resulting gear into the correct geometry.

This new ghettofab gear will be strong, and not prone to break like the glued gear would be.

(Note. Plastic gears are usually made of nylon, and have a teeny bit of flex in them, and very hard materials like clear epoxy might be harmful to their mating gear. 'Plastic weld' from JBWeld is a 'much softer, practically gummy' epoxy that's creamy offwhite in color that may work better as a FINAL product. That is to say, make the hard gear, file it to fit, then repeat the process of mold making and cast a plastic weld gear out of that for final use.)