Ozzuneoj wrote on 2026-02-14, 22:15:

Predator99 wrote on 2026-02-14, 22:03:

Box already arrived. Not sure it was worth the money...

Looks like a decent lot! Depending on how much you spent, I think it definitely has some nice stuff in it. The ET4000AX with EGA output is pretty slick... I don't think I have one of those. The S3 805 is also a solid VLB card. The boards are nice too. Especially that Epox... though I would take a close look at the caps. Some of the smaller ones might be getting a bit round on top.

I wouldn't write off that Trio32 completely. A good scrub with some soap and water would make it look a lot better. Someone who doesn't mind doing some repairs to the SMD components and straightening some pins could get that functioning without too much hassle unless there are a bunch of damaged traces. 🙂

Thanks for your comment!

After cleaning the 286 and straightening the Pins I also cleaned the Trio32. Still does not look good and one pin is loose. Dont think its worth spending more effort on this.

The 286 looks OK again:

Predator99 wrote on 2026-02-15, 18:13:

After cleaning the 286 and straightening the Pins I also cleaned the Trio32. Still does not look good and one pin is loose. Dont think its worth spending more effort on this.

That looks very repairable. Maybe put it up for hardware giveaway so someone else could take a shot.

Predator99 wrote on 2026-02-14, 22:03:

The 286 - looks unsued, have seen worse battery damage. Also many bent pins on the Headland:
https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/aquari … tems-bcom-ht286

I have this 286 board, it's my primary 286. I found 4 MB of SIPP memory for it. Absolutely love this board.

Predator99 wrote on 2026-02-15, 18:13:

Thanks for your comment! […]
Show full quote

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2026-02-14, 22:15:

Predator99 wrote on 2026-02-14, 22:03:

Box already arrived. Not sure it was worth the money...

Looks like a decent lot! Depending on how much you spent, I think it definitely has some nice stuff in it. The ET4000AX with EGA output is pretty slick... I don't think I have one of those. The S3 805 is also a solid VLB card. The boards are nice too. Especially that Epox... though I would take a close look at the caps. Some of the smaller ones might be getting a bit round on top.

I wouldn't write off that Trio32 completely. A good scrub with some soap and water would make it look a lot better. Someone who doesn't mind doing some repairs to the SMD components and straightening some pins could get that functioning without too much hassle unless there are a bunch of damaged traces. 🙂

Thanks for your comment!

After cleaning the 286 and straightening the Pins I also cleaned the Trio32. Still does not look good and one pin is loose. Dont think its worth spending more effort on this.

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The 286 looks OK again:

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I'm with Shponglefan on this one. That is definitely fixable.

I have a sewing pin that I bent the tip on that works great for hooking in between and straightening bent pins like that, under a microscope of course. Once the pins aren't touching each other and are aligned with the solder pads, a bit of flux (or solder paste) and a heat gun will have those reattached in no time.

I can just barely read the label, but that is a Miro Trio32, which is pretty cool. Miro stuff is uncommon here in the US compared to Europe but it all seems to be of good quality. Of course, it will never be a pristine card... the solder mask is scratched away in several places, and those pins will never be "straight" again, but it is far from being not worth fixing for someone who does that kind of stuff frequently and has the tools\parts\experience.

I bought three CONTEC industrial PCs, IPC-BX/M400(PC)H, for a total of 9,000 yen (on Yahoo Auctions).
They are good Am5x86-133/WB machines (the upper half of the case can accommodate two ISA cards). They have 16MB of memory (72-pin SO-DIMM) and a 20GB HDD (2.5") installed.
I plan to use them as the main i486 machine in my home (for testing NetBSD, Linux, etc.).

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2026-02-15, 21:44:

I'm with Shponglefan on this one. That is definitely fixable. […]
Show full quote

Predator99 wrote on 2026-02-15, 18:13:

Thanks for your comment! […]
Show full quote

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2026-02-14, 22:15:

Looks like a decent lot! Depending on how much you spent, I think it definitely has some nice stuff in it. The ET4000AX with EGA output is pretty slick... I don't think I have one of those. The S3 805 is also a solid VLB card. The boards are nice too. Especially that Epox... though I would take a close look at the caps. Some of the smaller ones might be getting a bit round on top.

I wouldn't write off that Trio32 completely. A good scrub with some soap and water would make it look a lot better. Someone who doesn't mind doing some repairs to the SMD components and straightening some pins could get that functioning without too much hassle unless there are a bunch of damaged traces. 🙂

Thanks for your comment!

After cleaning the 286 and straightening the Pins I also cleaned the Trio32. Still does not look good and one pin is loose. Dont think its worth spending more effort on this.

The attachment 1.jpg is no longer available

The attachment 2.jpg is no longer available

The attachment 3.jpg is no longer available

The 286 looks OK again:

The attachment 5.jpg is no longer available

The attachment 4.jpg is no longer available

I'm with Shponglefan on this one. That is definitely fixable.

I have a sewing pin that I bent the tip on that works great for hooking in between and straightening bent pins like that, under a microscope of course. Once the pins aren't touching each other and are aligned with the solder pads, a bit of flux (or solder paste) and a heat gun will have those reattached in no time.

I can just barely read the label, but that is a Miro Trio32, which is pretty cool. Miro stuff is uncommon here in the US compared to Europe but it all seems to be of good quality. Of course, it will never be a pristine card... the solder mask is scratched away in several places, and those pins will never be "straight" again, but it is far from being not worth fixing for someone who does that kind of stuff frequently and has the tools\parts\experience.

If somebody likes to have it: If you provide a paid shipping label I can put it in a padded envelope and send it out. Location is Germany 😉

Predator99 wrote on Yesterday, 09:13:

Ozzuneoj wrote on 2026-02-15, 21:44:

I'm with Shponglefan on this one. That is definitely fixable. […]
Show full quote

Predator99 wrote on 2026-02-15, 18:13:

Thanks for your comment! […]
Show full quote

Thanks for your comment!

After cleaning the 286 and straightening the Pins I also cleaned the Trio32. Still does not look good and one pin is loose. Dont think its worth spending more effort on this.

The attachment 1.jpg is no longer available

The attachment 2.jpg is no longer available

The attachment 3.jpg is no longer available

The 286 looks OK again:

The attachment 5.jpg is no longer available

The attachment 4.jpg is no longer available

I'm with Shponglefan on this one. That is definitely fixable.

I have a sewing pin that I bent the tip on that works great for hooking in between and straightening bent pins like that, under a microscope of course. Once the pins aren't touching each other and are aligned with the solder pads, a bit of flux (or solder paste) and a heat gun will have those reattached in no time.

I can just barely read the label, but that is a Miro Trio32, which is pretty cool. Miro stuff is uncommon here in the US compared to Europe but it all seems to be of good quality. Of course, it will never be a pristine card... the solder mask is scratched away in several places, and those pins will never be "straight" again, but it is far from being not worth fixing for someone who does that kind of stuff frequently and has the tools\parts\experience.

If somebody likes to have it: If you provide a paid shipping label I can put it in a padded envelope and send it out. Location is Germany 😉

Sadly, I am in the US so it isn't practical for me, but we do have a hardware giveaway thread and I'm sure someone will respond if you post it there. 😀
Old hardware giveaway thread.

Pair of P!!! 1000EB FCPGA SL4MF for less than US$ 35 😀

Just picked up something pretty damn cool, will post about it when I've got it all set up. Anyone know the correct way to remove the battery on this style of socket? The thin metal on these old things get proper flimsy, so I don't want to break anything.

giantenemycat wrote on Today, 21:06:

Just picked up something pretty damn cool, will post about it when I've got it all set up. Anyone know the correct way to remove the battery on this style of socket? The thin metal on these old things get proper flimsy, so I don't want to break anything.

The attachment cm.jpg is no longer available

I believe you push the battery back toward the spring slightly until it clears the black plastic clip at the bottom.

Yeah, that is how you remove a battery from such a socket.