Two jumper wires perhaps? Not the prettiest...

Yes. You can rebuild the pads. It's a bit of a process though. Here is an example:
https://youtu.be/Cq9WYcpVv2g

I highly recommend you try this on something else that you don't care about first.

Also you can take some shortcuts if you want, and avoid rebuilding the pads. Just solder the chip with the legs remaining, then run wires to the scratched connections points near each missing pad.

This video has a pad repair demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOb9pk6EquY

I would probably just use bodge wires.

I've repaired pads a few times - can be tricky in tight spaces.

If there's suitable connection points close-by, I sometimes just use a little-bit of 30g (wire-wrap) wire to make an alternate connection (much easier to solder to a pin then to fix a pad)

EDIT: nail polish or UV-curable conformal coating
1 scrape remaining traces to expose copper
2 solder thin wires in place of pads. Upper one might be easier as you can plop thin wire in the via hole for stability.
3 use paint to glue those thin wires in place, dont worry about making a mess and covering copper
4 wait till it dries
5 scrape away excess glue/polish exposing copper again
6 solder away

or just go lazy and bodge it, its only 3 wires

rasz_pl wrote on 2026-03-20, 22:51:

super glue

While I haven't tried it myself, everything I've read suggests that super glue shouldn't be used on pads because of the heat applied to them.

A temperature resistant epoxy would be a better option.

googles "cyanide gases", holy crap here I am on internet telling people how to gas themselves 🙁

rasz_pl wrote on 2026-03-21, 00:11:

googles "cyanide gases", holy crap here I am on internet telling people how to gas themselves 🙁

Between that and "press alt-f4 for cheat codes" .... Won't fall for either of those again!

I'm going to bodge it most likely. Just disappointed in myself. I was hoping to try a couple different roms, but it looks like this is going to be a one and one if I get it working.

Maybe I'll be able to software flash it once I get it working.

What type of ROM is this exactly? If it's an I2C rom there's a good chance those pins are just tied high or low (they set the I2C address).

jmarsh wrote on 2026-03-21, 00:17:

What type of ROM is this exactly? If it's an I2C rom there's a good chance those pins are just tied high or low (they set the I2C address).

ST 5P10VP S08. I'd like to flash it with the PC version of the card that does 500Mhz / 300Mhz but maybe it should go for more conservative timings and see how it goes and hope that I can do the software flash once it is detected by a PC.

I think it's pins 1 & 2

1          Top View
2       +---[ Notch ]---+
3  /S  1|               |8  VCC
4   Q  2|     P10VP     |7  /HOLD
5  /W  3|      SO8      |6  C (Clock)
6 VSS  4|               |5  D (Data In)
7       +---------------+

1 Chip Select Must be Low to enable the chip and start communication.
2 Serial Data Output Data

Assuming you want to do a permanent replacement...

How many of the pads are intact? - looks like 5 or 6 out of 8 - should be enough for mechanical strength.
Pin 1: (top left pad) - scrape solder resist from the via to the left then stripped wire wrap link to the IC pin/
Pin 2: - Option 1: try and find a half decent IC pin/component pad, and link using insulated wire wrap wire.
Option 2: Look for a decent thickness length of track, carefully remove the solder resist, and solder to that and the IC pin.
Pin 3 looks OK (good job because it would be the hardest to fix)
Pin 4 (Bottom left pad) If you've only lost the left hand part of the pad, you might get away with it (you might have to solder the IC off centre), otherwise scrape the solder resist from the groundplane and use a stripped wire wrap link to the IC pin.

Pins 5+6 look OK
Pin 7 looks OK
Pin 8 - if dodgy, simply deliberately solder blob the pin to its neighbour (it would be nice to use stripped wirewrap and then trim back, but you'll struggle to trim it back neatly).

If you need to run a length of insulated wirewrap, to make it look neat
- use small blobs of cyanoacrylate/super glue on every 90deg bend and every inch/2cm on a straight run to tack the wire to the PCB.
- Have the wire run away from the IC in line with the pin, then two 90 degree bends (with a single blob),
- When you solder to a PCB trace solder a good 3 to 5 mm of stripped wire to the PCB trace, with a smooth fillet of solder, rather than strip 1mm and solder to a horrible tiny blob which will shear off the moment you try to remove any flux residue.

If you need to remove superglue, use acetone (use the cheapest and nastiest nail polish remover, and you should get a applicator brush thrown in for free) to unbond the adhesive, and clean up thoroughly before soldering. (Got to use acetone, as apparently isopropyl alcohol/propan-2-ol catalyses superglue).

mdog69

douglar wrote on 2026-03-20, 20:06:

I was trying to swap a Rom on a mac Radeon 9600 and accidentally removed some solder pads.

Any advice for reconnecting this?

I use these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002610778441.html

zuldan wrote on 2026-03-21, 06:01:

douglar wrote on 2026-03-20, 20:06:

I was trying to swap a Rom on a mac Radeon 9600 and accidentally removed some solder pads.

Any advice for reconnecting this?

I use these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002610778441.html

What a name “Quickly Dot-Repairing Soldering Lug Fly-Free to Jump Wire Spot Fixing Soldering Lug For Phone Welding Plates Repair“

How do they work? The instructions are of truely the english language as she is spoken!

Do they come with solder mask?

Those new pads don’t come with solder mask

1. Grind a bit of the solder mask covering each trace
2. Solder the leg of the new pad to the trace and apply some solder mask to the leg of the pad to help hold it down

https://youtu.be/WdVFUXvJHdQ?t=1021

Highly recommend you practice with another PCB. Doing it the first time can be tricky. As rasz_pl said, it’s just 3 wires, you could just bodge it.

zuldan wrote on 2026-03-21, 12:05:

Highly recommend you practice with another PCB. Doing it the first time can be tricky. As rasz_pl said, it’s just 3 wires, you could just bodge it.

Thats always good advice. The traces on the 9600xt are very fine. I have a corroded 386sx 40 that needs a lot of trace repair. I can practice on that.