VOGONS


First post, by TheMobRules

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I'm trying to remove the heatsink from a 286 CLCC CPU but I'm not sure how to do this without breaking something.

Having seen these LCC socket + heatsink combos disassembled, the most logical way to do it would seem to be by pushing the heatsink in the direction shown on the picture to release the heatsink from the two upper socket "slots", and then lifting 90 degrees on the other side to remove it:

The attachment CLCC_heatsink_1.jpg is no longer available

However when I try to do this it won't budge even a millimeter, and I don't want to force it in a way that would break the socket or CPU. I'm not 100% sure what's preventing it from moving, but it would seem the heatsink is unable to clear the two "front" slots. From one side it looks like I should be able to push it backwards:

The attachment CLCC_heatsink_2.jpg is no longer available

But looking from the other side it seems like there's not enough space for the heatsink locking tabs to fit through the slots unless I push them down, which I don't seem to be able to do either even when applying an uncomfortable amount of force:

The attachment CLCC_heatsink_3.jpg is no longer available

Am I missing something here? Is there any trick for removing this thing safely?

Reply 1 of 7, by Tiido

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Lots of force while applying some downward pressure, in the direction in the first image. If there's any thermal paste used, it gets even harder since it probably has caked up by now and perhaps is the reason why it doesn't want to budge at all...

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Reply 2 of 7, by mkarcher

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Tiido wrote on 2026-04-11, 11:23:

If there's any thermal paste used, it gets even harder since it probably has caked up by now

Do you think adding some drops of isopropyl alcohol on top of the exposed part of the ceramic might help to soften caked paste?

Reply 3 of 7, by paradigital

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It can’t hurt.

Reply 5 of 7, by bofh.fromhell

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Unless some fellow retro enthusiast has been under that heat-sink before I'd say there's a pretty low chance of finding any TIM under it.
While IPA might help I would probably try some contact cleaner first, they usually contain some light lubricant that can wick under the HS.
And the step up from that would be a few drops of WD40 or equivalent.
Also don't forget to treat the tabs that slide =)

Should that fail perhaps our old frenemy heat could help.

And when/if you manage to get it off and suddenly feels an urge to use some TIM think again =)
The only material I'd even consider using would be one of those graphite pads, if it could survive the sliding (doubtful).

Reply 6 of 7, by Tiido

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mkarcher wrote on 2026-04-11, 12:09:

Do you think adding some drops of isopropyl alcohol on top of the exposed part of the ceramic might help to soften caked paste?

It won't hurt to try but it probably won't really do anything since it cannot really get in there. WD40 might help as suggested by bofh.fromhell, it "climbs" every surface and might reduce friction in the retention mechanism too but it'll take a bit of effort to clean it all out later.

T-04YBSC, a new YMF71x based sound card & Official VOGONS thread about it
Newly made 4MB 60ns 30pin SIMMs ~
mida sa loed ? nagunii aru ei saa 😜

Reply 7 of 7, by TheMobRules

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Thanks for the tips! Yeah, I may try some IPA just in case as WD40 would be a bit of a mess to clean there if it gets inside the socket.

Other than that, looks like I will have to apply some force!