It says "REV 1.1" right there on the board. So it would indeed use a 1.x bios.

There are bunch of different versions of the same model with the same revision of the board on gigabytes socket 370 legacy pages.
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/list.aspx?s=42&ck=2&lgc=1

A few of them have a creative sound chip integrated into them surprisingly, I ruled those out since the chip is obviously missing 🤣 .

I think I figured it out tho, its the stock 60XE-1 that is lacking the picture of itself, google images seem to give me a similar picture to the board above with GA-60XE-1 as a search result. Just would like confirmation, don't wanta trash a capable Tualatin board with a bad flash. Tho since this is a gigabyte board, and I have bad luck, dual flash 🤣.
Except this gigabyte board is missing the backup bios chip\rom 😢 .

Oh, I see now. Are you certain that there isn't a sticker on the side of the ATX connector on the board? Sometimes they're hidden like that.

This would be site I would get the BIOS from if I had that board: http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-p … x?pid=1384#bios

If it had a sticker its long gone.
Prob fell off, I got this board at an open flea market type sale.

Thanks Mau1wuf1977 US site did not have that manual, now I have a manual.

Thats a little bit of a help 🤣.
Would all the bios's be compatible with each other for all the various models of this board? you think? cause... Theres alot of them. 6 or 7 very closely related boards going by the US legacy socket 370 choices.

Board is still drying, it was really dirty when I got it, so I got some time to figure this out 🤣.

Some more google searching and I found a couple of closer pics of the GA-6OXET-C
That board clearly states the T part with the name under the PCI slot and has a Blue socket.
I'm thinking its the 60XE-1 for sure now.
But if they are basically the same board, safe to use the T-C's bios? I've never tried flashing another boards bios before in another board.
The 60XE-1 is listing Tualatin support up to 1.266ghz, the GA-6OXET-C 1.4ghz 512kb.
But what is the real difference between these boards?? the T-C has the 2nd bios thats all I see, maybe another revision in the i815?

It looks like Gigabyte's site only has thumbnails of those board pictures, but maybe my browser just isn't rendering it correctly (very likely).
I have some older, reasonably sized pictures of the GA-60XE and GA-60XET, but not the GA-60XE-1.
The component layout in the VRM area of the board matches a GA-60XE, not XET. But in the area between the northbridge and the AGP slot, it doesn't match the 6OXE anymore either.

There's a board in this article:
http://ixbtlabs.com/articles/i815moboroundupjun2k1/
whose picture is located here:
http://www.ixbt.com/mainboard/images/roundup- … e-ga-6oxe-1.jpg
and it looks like a perfect match, but check if you agree.
The article doesn't state clearly which version of the 6OXE is photographed. The only clue is the filename, which says "ga-6oxe-1.jpg".

Whatever you do, make sure you make a backup copy of the original BIOS before you flash it. That way you'll at least have a known good image to revert to. If it gets to that point you could get a chip made by somebody, or hotflash one yourself with another board (kind of tricky with PLCCs but possible). DualBIOS would have been nice, but at least they had the decency to give you a socket.

PS: I find it terribly perverse that Gigabyte used a letter "O" in these board names. That's what it seems to be from the font anyway.

Here the GB link to vanilla GA-6OXE:

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page … spx?pid=1395#dl

What I do with BIOS updates on precious motherboards is, if the BIOS is socketed, source a replacement Flash, remove the original and bag and tag it. Then I use an external flash programmer and write the new BIOS on the replacement Flash and insert it into the motherboard.

You also might want to recap it with some good quality capacitors.
The ones presently on there may give you a headache down the road.

EDIT:

The AGP universal is definitely nice for the 2x cards, like a 2x Voodoo 5500.

I agree with the O font. Think its a Zero most of the time.
The Stock 6OXE is using the same exact bios updates as the 6OXE-1 all the updates file sizes\names are identical.
So I would assume thats safe to flash to it. Currently with its current bios it does not see Tualatins. It just beeps at boot 🤣. Probably needs the beta bios which is claiming it'll see the 256k L2 Tualatins.

Its rare for me to come across full atx Tualatin capable socket 370 boards so I don't want to ruin it.
The Caps on the board are in really good shape too, no visible bulging or burst caps.
It looks like it'll make a nice stable system once I get it updated.
Which I'll give a go today as its dry by now.

Just an update Flashed it with the F7b beta Bios the 6OXE and 6OXE-1 are sharing on the gigabyte site.
Worked OK, recognizes a 1.2ghz Celeron Tualatin just fine. 😀 !

Yaay! Glad to hear it work out. BIOS flashing always gives me butterflies in my stomach; especially for very old hardware.

Yea I don't like flashing old hardware, but its sometimes mandatory.
Not sure what I'm gonna use this board for yet. As I gota get another case for it 🤣.

Nice 😀

You could build a V2 or V3 machine with this board?

Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

Nice 😀

You could build a V2 or V3 machine with this board?

Possibly, problem is have enough machines with the V3\VB already.
I might stick the Geforce 256 DDR in this as its permanent machine and a Voodoo 2.
Good fit for it.

I also have a V5 5500 agp that needs to be recapped that I keep putting off.
Got it free last year but 3 or 4 of the Caps were knocked off it from being stored poorly by the previous owner.
Would also be a good fit.

V5 would love such a fast processor!

AlphaWing wrote:

I also have a V5 5500 agp that needs to be recapped that I keep putting off.
Got it free last year but 3 or 4 of the Caps were knocked off it from being stored poorly by the previous owner.
Would also be a good fit.

Just get some 10uF through hole caps (like Rubycon YXF), bend the leads, and solder the bent leads on the surface pads. It's much easier and allows them to be removed without much of a problem. You will want solder wick, 60/40 leaded solder, and a basic iron. I like using chisel tips, but I am sure conicals will do just as well.
Be careful when wicking the surface mount pads, do not drag the wick around. The 5500's have very strong solder pads thankfully.

AlphaWing wrote:

The Caps on the board are in really good shape too, no visible bulging or burst caps.

Those are *Very very* low quality bottom of the barrel electrolytic capacitors. They are already not performing to their claimed uF out of the box, and will most likely leak excess voltage. I would be surprised if you got more than 3 years out of it with minimal use.

Here is a Picture of the V5 in question.

Theres 1 Small cap on the Powerside, and 1 Big cap Missing. The Big Cap has some of the left part of its solder pad knocked off too.
The other one missing Is a small one above the left memory chips gpu\vpu\whatever.

I'm all thumbs when it comes to soldering why I keep putting it off.
Don't know the ratings for them either.

AlphaWing wrote:

Theres 1 Small cap on the Powerside, and 1 Big cap Missing. The Big Cap has some of the left part of its solder pad knocked off […]
Show full quote

Theres 1 Small cap on the Powerside, and 1 Big cap Missing. The Big Cap has some of the left part of its solder pad knocked off too.
The other one missing Is a small one above the left memory chips gpu\vpu\whatever.

I'm all thumbs when it comes to soldering why I keep putting it off.
Don't know the ratings for them either.

All of the small ones are 10uF (anything 16V and above will work for the voltage tolerance). The 'big one' that was knocked off is 100uF / 16V. The big one was a polymer (oscon), so something like rubycon ZLH would be an appropriate substitute, or another sanyo oscon.