VOGONS


First post, by borgie83

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Just came across an issue with my Sound Blaster 16 CT1740 with ASP which I have never come across before.

SFX and Music only come out of the left channel. I also tested it with my Yamaha DB50XG daughterboard but the same thing occurred. Go to remove it and it's so hot that I almost burn myself! You could fry an egg on this thing..

I've tested now around 20 different sound blasters on this same PC including 2 other CT1740's and there hasn't been an issue with any of them except for this one. My guess is that it's good for the bin...?

Just be a shame to throw it out as it's in new condition and the CT1740 with the ASP soldered on is getting quite rare these days. Here's a photo:

Reply 1 of 11, by borgie83

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On another note, if it is truly stuffed, would I be better off unsoldering the ASP and DSP chips and using them (if it's even possible) on another sound blaster like my SB16 Pro CT2910?

Reply 2 of 11, by smeezekitty

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There was a similar problem poster here earlier. I suspect either a shorted coupling cap or a fried amp chip.
IF you can find the bad part it is probably an easy fix

Reply 3 of 11, by borgie83

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smeezekitty wrote:

There was a similar problem poster here earlier. I suspect either a shorted coupling cap or a fried amp chip.
IF you can find the bad part it is probably an easy fix

I suspected the amp was fried as well. I'm guessing it would be very hard trying to find the amp separately without purchasing another card unfortunately. Would this cause the card to heat up so much though?

Reply 4 of 11, by shamino

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I don't have anything to suggest for repair, but if you do give up on it, I'd at least save it as a parts donor.

Reply 5 of 11, by AlphaWing

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Try Disabling the Amp?
The 2 OPSL-R jumpers do that, and switch it to Line-out.

Reply 6 of 11, by Jepael

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Well I would save it or try to fix it, just because it has real Yamaha OPL3 chip.

Now, if the line out signal is good, or if just the amp chip is fried, I'd just remove the amp chip.

Reply 7 of 11, by Robin4

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Jepael wrote:

Well I would save it or try to fix it, just because it has real Yamaha OPL3 chip.

Now, if the line out signal is good, or if just the amp chip is fried, I'd just remove the amp chip.

I would do the same.. Trowing it a way is not a good thing these days, because are still are just a limited amount available.. So please try to repair it.

~ At least it can do black and white~

Reply 8 of 11, by smeezekitty

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borgie83 wrote:
smeezekitty wrote:

There was a similar problem poster here earlier. I suspect either a shorted coupling cap or a fried amp chip.
IF you can find the bad part it is probably an easy fix

I suspected the amp was fried as well. I'm guessing it would be very hard trying to find the amp separately without purchasing another card unfortunately. Would this cause the card to heat up so much though?

Actually that appears not to be the case
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/250811409216?lpid=82

Reply 9 of 11, by borgie83

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Regarding disabling the amp, I don't really want to bypass it altogether because I'd rather it be functioning as it should.

@smeezekitty, thanks heaps for the link. I just made a purchase so I'll report back once I receive and install the new amp 😀

Would the amp cause the card to heat up so much though?

Reply 10 of 11, by smeezekitty

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If the amp chip is shorted it would

Reply 11 of 11, by JaNoZ

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What caps would be bad, i have several SB16's and SB32's i need to try out after some years, but now i am getting scared of your stories for them failing. i know they at least worked ok.
Do they short when they are powered on or can we measure if they already are bad and shorting out.?

I would definitely try to revive the sb16 as it is, getting off the CSP chip is a waste and you might destroy both
In that case you're better off bypassing the amp.