I don't think they had powdercoating, back then so I would guess polyurethane or epoxy based paint.

So if i use consumer paint should it sturdy enough? Or do i need to think of high quality paint you mentioned.

Why not buy another case? There are plenty of non working machines out there.

PeterLI wrote:

Why not buy another case? There are plenty of non working machines out there.

Where are there plenty of XT machines/cases?

PeterLI wrote:

Why not buy another case? There are plenty of non working machines out there.

Indeed its an XT style one.. This one was already quit expensive.. And also the best looking / compatible one to finish my goal.
Neither other XT / AT style case would be looking new.. They are all heavly used or throwing outside..

I only need to repaint the bottom part where the case feets are.. Because its just to hard damaged with scratches and releasing of the paint..
I just want to repaint that part, because the rest i will remain intact.

Work out scratches, loose paint and rust with fine wet/dry sandpaper using a sanding block. Gradually go finer and finer with the grit until the surface is smooth. Mask off the area and apply a primer coat. Then one or more finish coats. Good enamel based spray paint [can is fine], or auto spray paint should be fine. You may run into an issue of how the joint between the newly painted area and original surfaces works, but if there is a hem or fold, or some other construction line it should be clear what to do. Clear coat the finished work with the desired luster; matte, satin gloss etc.

Do a trial run using a random piece of marred metal of similar finish - or even an old case you're not worried about borking up.

When you regularly check eBay / Marktplaats / Tweakers and so on I am confident there will be an IBM 51** case for cheap sometime. There are even more in the US (obviously).

Let me get on thing out of the way: does the case still have feet? I just want to know if the bottom surface will actually touch anything because if not, you can get away with low-grade coatings like enamel.

I'm mainly an automotive painter, but I spent years working as an industrial painter so I've become familiar with industrial coatings as well. And whatever is on old computer cases always struck me as polyurethane because its tough! BUT because I never see a primer-coat underneath the paint, I get the feeling cases are powdercoated.

Ah, I apologize; I keep neglecting the fact that you're talking about the chassis. The chassis are painted a matte black, and they don't have a primer-coat under them, normally either but they also don't have to endure any action like the cover does. A matte-black enamel should be fine.

As far as prep is concerned, I would suggest starting with something like 120-grit to get rid of the scratches, then using 240 to smooth things out. Use several light to medium coats. Don't use heavy coats. And read the directions to find how long the paint should flash between coats.

PeterLI wrote:

When you regularly check eBay / Marktplaats / Tweakers and so on I am confident there will be an IBM 51** case for cheap sometime. There are even more in the US (obviously).

Looking there is always a hard job to do.. Yes i regular check those sites too.. But i actually dont find the things there iam looking for sadly.
And then an IBM enclosure isnt not the case iam looking for.. It just needs to be a clone computer instead. ( the case i have here is just one of the original ST-JUKO motherboard cases..)

Logistics wrote:

Let me get on thing out of the way: does the case still have feet? I just want to know if the bottom surface will actually touc […]
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Let me get on thing out of the way: does the case still have feet? I just want to know if the bottom surface will actually touch anything because if not, you can get away with low-grade coatings like enamel.

I'm mainly an automotive painter, but I spent years working as an industrial painter so I've become familiar with industrial coatings as well. And whatever is on old computer cases always struck me as polyurethane because its tough! BUT because I never see a primer-coat underneath the paint, I get the feeling cases are powdercoated.

Ah, I apologize; I keep neglecting the fact that you're talking about the chassis. The chassis are painted a matte black, and they don't have a primer-coat under them, normally either but they also don't have to endure any action like the cover does. A matte-black enamel should be fine.

As far as prep is concerned, I would suggest starting with something like 120-grit to get rid of the scratches, then using 240 to smooth things out. Use several light to medium coats. Don't use heavy coats. And read the directions to find how long the paint should flash between coats.

There where feets underneath this case.. I see this because there was sticky stuff on it, that i removed it some days ago. From an other AT case i bought new then (on my opinion to cheap quality) I have some set new feets over from that case iam can use for it.. I see also the blanc metal of the case, so yes there is no primer-coat used.. Otherwise i would see no rust spots on the metal.

I guess enamel isnt just a paint? So the case needs to get in to an oven?

Iam think i leave the original paint as possible on the case.(For better adhesion) Then sanding it with a fine sandpaper (specially for paintings)
And then will look for paint that best matches the case cooler.. First trying to fill the places where the paint is of the case.. Then give it a good dry..

Then again i would sand it again so everything would smooth again.. And then with a roller i would repaint to whole bottom.. I dont think a spray can would be a good idea..

1. Iam not very skilled to use spray cans, because iam to impatient. ( using spray cans you need to learn it first by doing it a lot of times)
2. I also dont want to cover the rest of the better parts with paint spray. Because the spray is going every where.. (i know i need to cover up the other case parts, but dont want to damaged it because of stickers er tape residu or be affraid pulling of the standard paint when removing the tape.. Also it would took a lot of time to cover all of these good parts.
3. I think the quality with a good quality paint roller would be definitely be better if you just roll with fine layers of paint on the case bottom.

But before going to paint mindless, it would be a great idea to test some paint first to match the right black..

Does enamel paint always have from those `spots`in the paint:

I think its almost the same my case have.

Impressive. I would not have the patience: this sounds like a lot work.

Those "spots" are just a result of putting the paint on too wet/heavy. Just fog a light coat over it after it dries to touch. Maybe you should just shoot some Rustoleum over the bad areas

That sample looks more like glazed ceramic to me - or what they call 'baked enamel' which can have an undulating 'orange peel' like finish with light and dark spots.

Use Masking tape; low tack and won't damage surrounding finishes. Mask along the edge of the work and and slip sheets of newspaper along the other edge of the tape to protect surrounding areas from over spray.

I admit this all sound like more work than I'd be willing to undertake, and finish work [as always is the case] must be done well or imperfections will stand out like sore thumbs. I'm not a perfectionist though, and have painted inexpensive cases with aluminum metallic spray can paint - outside but out of the wind - in 3 or 4 light applications waiting 5 minutes or so between coats. Nothing fancy but I'm pleased with the results. Note: gloss enamel will need much longer to dry between coats.

If you have a junker case sitting around use it test out technique. Good luck!