VOGONS


First post, by Artex

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So I was getting ready to do some benchmarking on my Real3D 4MB+4MB AGP card a few nights ago, so I plugged it into my test bench (Asus P2B) and fired it up. Worked great on first boot, but then I powered down the system and on reboot, all I get is a flashing gray screen. I've tried multiple AGP motherboards and I see the same thing now. 🙁

The previous owner said the card was partially tested.. I probably should have examined the card more closely when I first got it, as I'm now seeing some possible problems on the PCB. Upon closer inspection of the board, everything looks fine except for three small areas. Granted, I don't know what any of these things are or what they do, so I'm hoping some of you engineers can help a brother out here...

1) Marked C65 on the back of the card?
2) "Crooked" component - not in alignment with the others?
3) Area with 3 blue covers - missing one?

I checked the pictures of the card I took when I first bought it and I see the same thing, so the card hasn't 'since' been damaged. If the card is toast, not a huge deal I guess - the PCI variants are more popular. It's just that this particular model with the 4MB onboard + 4MB SODIMM riser is more rare.

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Reply 1 of 11, by keropi

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I think that only 1 and 2 are shoddy here...
#1 I can't see very well, is the small capacitor burned?
#2 needs repair for sure , the component is loose on one end
#3 seems fine to me but we need a better picture, maybe there was a blue filter then that broke... but I think it's just a resistor (a 0ohm one, just a bridge)

can you take better pics Artex?

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Reply 2 of 11, by Artex

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keropi wrote:
I think that only 1 and 2 are shoddy here... #1 I can't see very well, is the small capacitor burned? #2 needs repair for sure […]
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I think that only 1 and 2 are shoddy here...
#1 I can't see very well, is the small capacitor burned?
#2 needs repair for sure , the component is loose on one end
#3 seems fine to me but we need a better picture, maybe there was a blue filter then that broke... but I think it's just a resistor (a 0ohm one, just a bridge)

can you take better pics Artex?

My camera kinda sucks with macro mode, or close up pictures in general. The capacitor isn't burned - it looks like it broke off.

EDIT: I literally just touched the component #2 and the little guy just fell off in my hand. Gah!

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Reply 3 of 11, by QBiN

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I agree with Keropi. It looks like #1 and #2 are passive SMD components that should be replaceable with just a steady hand and a soldering iron. I think #3 is fine. It looks like a fuse and even appears to be labeled as such ("F1").

Both #1 and 2 are serious. A missing capacitor could prevent a steady voltage from being delivered or keep an oscillating circuit from functioning. A missing resistor is like an open circuit which is obviously bad.

Reply 4 of 11, by Artex

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QBiN wrote:

I agree with Keropi. It looks like #1 and #2 are passive SMD components that should be replaceable with just a steady hand and a soldering iron.

....and this is where I get a little nervous. I've soldered here and there, but these are tiny little soldering dots - I mean really tiny. Also, do you know what replacement parts I would need? I'm unfortunately not too good at this side of the retro hobby...

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Reply 5 of 11, by keropi

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Artex don't lose the small capacitor that fell, you need to read it's value. Same goes for the resistor on #2.
Soldering them is a fine job - not that difficult but it does require some soldering experience above average IMHO. Is the vga worth it?

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Reply 6 of 11, by Artex

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keropi wrote:

Is the vga worth it?

Eh.... probably not. The PCI cards perform better anyway with their AGP bridge for texture memory.

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Reply 8 of 11, by Artex

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keropi wrote:

in that case... store for parts or something , that's what I do 🤣

Ok... Yeah.. as far as the tiny little cap goes, it flew off as soon as I touched it and I can't find it anywhere. If it landed on the floor then it most likely has become a treat for this guy:

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Reply 9 of 11, by shock__

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#1 - C65 is most likely a bypass capacitor (is it close to a chip on the other side? The thicker signal lines indicate they might be related to the power supply of a chip) going with 100nF probably would fix it - even tho that alone may not break the card (just make it more or less unstable)
#2 - Reading off the value would have been good, as that one might be the culprit for the card not working.
#3 - Kinda hard to see once again ... tracing it to the corresponding pin on the VGA connector might help to figure out the value of that fuse (might be critical or not).

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Reply 11 of 11, by Artex

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Hah! I'll dig around tonight and see if I can find the capacitor (#2). I'll also take a look at #3 and see if I can get a better picture under some better lighting conditions.

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