@Putas: Yes, in the pics it's impossible to see it. But in person, even without a magnifier, you could note that there is a missing pin. So it's gone. I will keep the card for spare parts or replacing the chip in the future if another damaged board arrives at home. Regarding the other vgas, thank you for the advise! The guys in here told me the S3 Virge was called "3D de-accelerator" jajajaja, so I can assume it wasn't a good 3D card at all.

@PCBONEZ: please, please read again my post. There is a high chance that because of my poor english you didn't understand it correctly. But there is absolutely nothing wrong to check capacitors that way. And you are saying the same as I: comparing capacitors IS NOT CORRECT. That doesn't give you any usefull information for this purpose. if this is an understanding problem because of my english, I'll repeat it easier (for me): if a capacitor is gone, you can measure it at whatever frequency you want. It will be damaged, gone, or whatever you want to call it. I know what you said, but that doesn't matters in this particular case. Although I'll wait for that Nichicon paper, I'm interested on that. If you find it, I'll be thankfull if you can post it here 😀

@RacoonRider: Thank you! Of course, I will not throw away them as they could serve for spare parts.

ramiro77 wrote:

if this is an understanding problem because of my english,

Maybe it is in part.
But you are making a mistake I see made over and over and over.
It is PITA to explain.
This is the second time I've had to explain it on Vogons in the last 2 weeks or so.
It would be easier if Vogons supported linking to posts rather than whole pages but they don't.

Basically at SMPS frequencies Xc ≈ Xl (they cancel out making what capacitance is irrelevant to the Z value) and Z ≈ ESR.
≈ is not =. ≈ means so close it is effectively =.
Your method of using only capacitance and frequency to calculate Z at those frequencies does not work.
You also have to input ESR. - Because it's the ONLY significant factor left.

ramiro77 wrote:

Although I'll wait for that Nichicon paper, I'm interested on that. If you find it, I'll be thankfull if you can post it here 😀

It is 29 pages and a lot is math and/or about other capacitor topics.
I am screen-shotting the parts that matter so I can add notes and so it's not so long everyone falls asleep reading it.
Also I am tired of writing it all. This time I will do it by image so next time I won't have to write it again.
My art skills - not so good. And I'm busy with real world things too. Might take another day or two.
.

PCBONEZ wrote:

It would be easier if Vogons supported linking to posts rather than whole pages but they don't.

Yes they do 😁
This link links to the middle of page 7 to one of my own posts. It is a little bit of a hassle though, I just copied the name of the topic above my own reply (it's actually the link to my reply itself) and selected my own line of text in this reply (it adds "url"-tags around it), then right after the first url-tag I add "=" followed by the link (this one Looking for a video card for Pentium 200 mmx ).

But what I don't know is how you added links to attachments to the middle of your own replies while all mine get added to the bottom of my replies, so if you want you could return me the favor right away 😜

Tetrium wrote:

PCBONEZ wrote:

It would be easier if Vogons supported linking to posts rather than whole pages but they don't.

Yes they do 😁
This link links to the middle of page 7 to one of my own posts. It is a little bit of a hassle though, I just copied the name of the topic above my own reply (it's actually the link to my reply itself) and selected my own line of text in this reply (it adds "url"-tags around it), then right after the first url-tag I add "=" followed by the link (this one Looking for a video card for Pentium 200 mmx ).

I think I've been up too long. I read it and I still don't get it. Will read it again later.

Tetrium wrote:

But what I don't know is how you added links to attachments to the middle of your own replies while all mine get added to the bottom of my replies, so if you want you could return me the favor right away 😜

If you mean what I think you mean it is manual editing.
If that doesn't answer the question show me an example and I will explain it better.

There's lots of good info in the Capacitor Replacement thread. I added an equivalent circuit diagram so folks can discuss capacitor behavior and properties a little easier.

k, here goes:

See above reply, but I find it easier to just "reverse-engineer" it but yours was weird 😊

PCBONEZ wrote:

I think I've been up too long. I read it and I still don't get it. Will read it again later. […]
Show full quote

Tetrium wrote:

PCBONEZ wrote:

It would be easier if Vogons supported linking to posts rather than whole pages but they don't.

Yes they do 😁
This link links to the middle of page 7 to one of my own posts. It is a little bit of a hassle though, I just copied the name of the topic above my own reply (it's actually the link to my reply itself) and selected my own line of text in this reply (it adds "url"-tags around it), then right after the first url-tag I add "=" followed by the link (this one Looking for a video card for Pentium 200 mmx ).

I think I've been up too long. I read it and I still don't get it. Will read it again later.

Tetrium wrote:

But what I don't know is how you added links to attachments to the middle of your own replies while all mine get added to the bottom of my replies, so if you want you could return me the favor right away 😜

If you mean what I think you mean it is manual editing.
If that doesn't answer the question show me an example and I will explain it better.

Very late edit:
And yes, I actually prefer to install and use many of my programs in the English language 😀

Tetrium wrote:

PCBONEZ wrote:

It would be easier if Vogons supported linking to posts rather than whole pages but they don't.

Yes they do 😁
This link links to the middle of page 7 to one of my own posts. It is a little bit of a hassle though, I just copied the name of the topic above my own reply (it's actually the link to my reply itself) and selected my own line of text in this reply (it adds "url"-tags around it), then right after the first url-tag I add "=" followed by the link (this one Looking for a video card for Pentium 200 mmx ).

Right, that is WAY HARDER than necessary.

You see that tiny little orange icon beside the "by Tetrium » 2016-1-19 @ 15:18"? Left-click it. ... or better yet, Right-Click it and choose "Copy Link Location" or whatever.

Done.

And you only need to do all that shenanigans with url tags if you want words in your post to link to something. Nothing's wrong with just posting the link, and VOGONS truncates the visible text in an internal link down to the last bit anyways.

Stiletto wrote:

Right, that is WAY HARDER than necessary. […]
Show full quote

Tetrium wrote:

PCBONEZ wrote:

It would be easier if Vogons supported linking to posts rather than whole pages but they don't.

Yes they do 😁
This link links to the middle of page 7 to one of my own posts. It is a little bit of a hassle though, I just copied the name of the topic above my own reply (it's actually the link to my reply itself) and selected my own line of text in this reply (it adds "url"-tags around it), then right after the first url-tag I add "=" followed by the link (this one Looking for a video card for Pentium 200 mmx ).

Right, that is WAY HARDER than necessary.

You see that tiny little orange icon beside the "by Tetrium » 2016-1-19 @ 15:18"? Left-click it. ... or better yet, Right-Click it and choose "Copy Link Location" or whatever.

Done.

And you only need to do all that shenanigans with url tags if you want words in your post to link to something. Nothing's wrong with just posting the link, and VOGONS truncates the visible text in an internal link down to the last bit anyways.

Err...you're right 🤣!

I could've just mentioned what you just mentioned myself, I think I just wanted to do it a bit more neatly (even though I don't even do it that way myself 😊 ).

Cheers for your input here 😁

But I still dunno how I can have my attached pics show somewhere in the middle of my reply instead of at the bottom. What nags me about that is that I kinda have to upload them in reverse order also because otherwise pic 5 will be the first one you see when scrolling downward, then pic 4 then pic 3 etc.

Tetrium wrote:

But I still dunno how I can have my attached pics show somewhere in the middle of my reply instead of at the bottom. What nags me about that is that I kinda have to upload them in reverse order also because otherwise pic 5 will be the first one you see when scrolling downward, then pic 4 then pic 3 etc.

Never did this, but just tried:
After uploading an attachment for a post, you get a "Place inline" button below the edit area. Using this button inserts the following code (file name is an example):

1[attachment=0]none.png[/attachment]

and the attachment is removed from the automatically generated list at the end of the post.

idspispopd wrote:

Never did this, but just tried: After uploading an attachment for a post, you get a "Place inline" button below the edit area. U […]
Show full quote

Tetrium wrote:

But I still dunno how I can have my attached pics show somewhere in the middle of my reply instead of at the bottom. What nags me about that is that I kinda have to upload them in reverse order also because otherwise pic 5 will be the first one you see when scrolling downward, then pic 4 then pic 3 etc.

Never did this, but just tried:
After uploading an attachment for a post, you get a "Place inline" button below the edit area. Using this button inserts the following code (file name is an example):

Copy code to clipboard

1[attachment=0]none.png[/attachment]

and the attachment is removed from the automatically generated list at the end of the post.

Yes, this works indeed! Cheers! 😁

Thanks for the tips on using Vogons guys.
Very helpful.

ramiro77 wrote:

Yes, of course. It's labelled C104 near the vrams:

23m6cyf.jpg

I have identified the caps on this Voodoo board as G-Luxon SV series.

The giveaways are that before 2005 G-Luxon were the only ones using black *and* that marking convention (arrangement) *and* had a series code "S" *and* the series dates back into the 90's.
.
G-Luxon and Teapo merged at the end of 2005.
Before the merger they both had an SV series but Teapo's were radial and G-Luxon's were these SMD parts.
After the merger they retained the SMD part and the radial part went away.
The SMD part is still shown as a current product on Teapo's site, although I personally would use better caps.
They are not low ESR (and IMHO should be) and their Endurance rating is only 1000 hours. Not a long-life cap.
.
Datasheet here: G-Luxon_SV-Series_PDF
Keep in mind these are GP caps and the datasheet was done at 120Hz.
Getting the data from Teapo is problematic because they put it in one huge PDF that covers all their caps series.
Some revisions are over 190 pages long.
.

Allright. That's very helpful info PCBONEZ. But the card isn't working yet. Now I don't have anymore the heating issue at the chip. But still no image and no recognition by Windows. I will start to take a look at the S3L384Q circuit. If there isn't any problem there, I can assume the card is fried and/or doesn't worth the effort to keep further.
Thank you dude! 😀

RacoonRider wrote:

No, money is not good enough. The first 10 would sell for $400. Then the world will be out of people willing to pay $400 and they would have to sell it for $200, but they wouldn't be able do that for long as well. Retro market is too small and you can't sell enough cards to actually make a serious profit. In fact, the moment a huge stock of something decent appears on the market, the prices drop instantly and very low.

A live example: there's a warehouse in Moscow that started selling V2s. They had insane amount of them, NOS, hell knows where they got them. I got mine from there too and they still have around 300. Now you can't expect to sell a V2 for even $10 in Russia, no one will buy it. Same thing with AWE32 CT2760 and several other cool vintage cards.

I think if there appeared a hidden 3dfx factory that had 10 000 boxed Voodoo 6 cards, they would cost less than $100 each.

There's a seller of NOS Atari 2600 and 400/800 games in South America somewhere who sells on USA ebay that he got when someone found a stash of unopened cases in a warehouse down there, including a lot of games that were previously thought to be rares like MotoRodeo and Ikari Warriors and as soon as his stock hit ebay, the market for those games tanked so there is some truth to the law of supply and demand. That seller now sells case lots of games because he can't get the high prices for individual pieces anymore.

ramiro77 wrote:

Allright. That's very helpful info PCBONEZ. But the card isn't working yet. Now I don't have anymore the heating issue at the chip. But still no image and no recognition by Windows. I will start to take a look at the S3L384Q circuit. If there isn't any problem there, I can assume the card is fried and/or doesn't worth the effort to keep further.
Thank you dude! 😀

I know but a lot of people have these cards so the info can help many others.
Also the caps on other Voodoo cards probably have similar specs even though they are a different brand.

Time permitting I intend to look for the other caps (on your other Voodoo card) too but identifying and finding specs for 15 year old SMD parts is difficult, time consuming and doesn't always pan out.
.

sliderider wrote:

There's a seller of NOS Atari 2600 and 400/800 games in South America somewhere who sells on USA ebay that he got when someone found a stash of unopened cases in a warehouse down there, including a lot of games that were previously thought to be rares like MotoRodeo and Ikari Warriors and as soon as his stock hit ebay, the market for those games tanked so there is some truth to the law of supply and demand. That seller now sells case lots of games because he can't get the high prices for individual pieces anymore.

So in other words after you filter out the greed and price gouging what they are -actually- worth today is the same as 15-20 years ago?
What were Voodoo cards going for as new in the 90's?
.

Well I worked in retail in 1998 and remember a lad coming into the shop and asking how much a Voodoo was. I said something like £250 (probably more like £400-£450 now with inflation) and the face he pulled - I thought he was going to swallow his tongue and pass out!

From what I can recall, here in Southern California original retail price for Voodoo Graphics (Voodoo 1) was $299. It quickly dropped as far as $150 after memory prices crashed in 1997.

http://computeme.tripod.com/righteous.html

Original Voodoo 2 retail price was $249 for 8MB and $299 for 12MB, but also went down quickly when price wars erupted in late 1998.

http://www.cnn.com/TECH/computing/9806/05/bes … .idg/index.html

After Nvidia bought out 3dfx, Voodoo cards lost value drastically - you could get either one for $40 or less in late 2000/early 2001.

(Edited to correct a spelling error)

Jeez, no wonder I didn't have one back then. Had a family to feed.

Hey guys, quick and silly question: does the Voodoo 1/2 needs to be connected to a 2D graphics card to be detected by Windows? A local forum member gave me for free another Voodoo 2 in nearly mint condition. No rough handling issues. I don't have right now the cables to try them because I borrowed them to a friend.