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PSU - bust the myth

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Reply 140 of 382, by PCBONEZ

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@386SX - and anyone interested.
I put some links here on good places to self-study PSUs. Re: PSU - bust the myth
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Reply 141 of 382, by TELVM

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SPBHM wrote:

... my PII 400/440bx/9500PRO ... ... while gaming is 85W total, doing some burn tests I might be able to get 90W at the wall, sitting on the desktop doing nothing already eats 81W ...

Assuming 75% PSU efficiency that's ~70W DC total system draw from all rails at full steam.

If your Kill-a-Watt has fast enough refresh rate you may see ~100W AC from the wall (~80W DC) while booting up, due to HDD & CD/DVD drawing extra power when their motors start rotating (this extra peak is drawn from +12V).

My single PIII 440BX system draws about the same (81W AC idling, 93W AC burning).

Let the air flow!

Reply 142 of 382, by Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman

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TELVM wrote:
Assuming 75% PSU efficiency that's ~70W DC total system draw from all rails at full steam. […]
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SPBHM wrote:

... my PII 400/440bx/9500PRO ... ... while gaming is 85W total, doing some burn tests I might be able to get 90W at the wall, sitting on the desktop doing nothing already eats 81W ...

Assuming 75% PSU efficiency that's ~70W DC total system draw from all rails at full steam.

If your Kill-a-Watt has fast enough refresh rate you may see ~100W AC from the wall (~80W DC) while booting up, due to HDD & CD/DVD drawing extra power when their motors start rotating (this extra peak is drawn from +12V).

My single PIII 440BX system draws about the same (81W AC idling, 93W AC burning).

Sorry I haven't been following, I've been down with sore throat again, but lots of interesting discussion. So it turned out PII 400 and Radeon 9500 PRO only consumes about 70W DC. I found out on this page that a Voodoo5 5500 alone consumes about 70W. So yes, I guess it's kinda risky to have only 150W (3.3V+5.5V combined power).

PCBONEZ wrote:
It's not just the +5v that causes the problem. 3.3v+5v combined watts on modern PSUs is hard to find at 150 watts or more. BX vi […]
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It's not just the +5v that causes the problem.
3.3v+5v combined watts on modern PSUs is hard to find at 150 watts or more.
BX vintage correct PSUs often had 3.3v+5v combined watts limits in the 185w-230w range and there was a real reason for that.

The other reason you have to overkill the crap out of watts using modern PSUs is the get a high enough 3.3v+5v watts rating.
One with less than 150 watts (3.3v+5v) probably isn't going to cut it for a BX based gaming system with 6 add-in cards.
With the parts selection I would call this one a BX based EXTREME gaming system and even 150 watts (3.3v+5v) is iffy IMHO.
.

So I guess if I were to use modern PSU, I have to use 1200W PSU --something like Corsair AX1200i (1200W), which has 180W on its 3.3V+ and 5V+ combined rails. But if it's working for my 440BX system, then it should also work on an 845PE system which has both GeForce 6800GT AGP and Voodoo5 5500 PCI. The 180W from 3.3V+ and 5V+ should be enough to provide necessary juice for the Voodoo5 PCI and other peripherals, while the 1000W from the 12V+ rail should be enough for the GeForce and the Pentium 4 processor.

Oh, but okay, one problem at a time.

So, anyway, I'm not experienced in finding retro PSU on ebay. Let's say I take the route of inverting modern PSU instead of restoring retro PSU. Which one the 12V+ power should go? Should it be converted to 3.3V+ or 5V+? Or perhaps it doesn't matter?

Never thought this thread would be that long, but now, for something different.....
Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman.

Reply 143 of 382, by PCBONEZ

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Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:

So, anyway, I'm not experienced in finding retro PSU on ebay.

Good time to get some experience.
Find ones you think are okay then post a link here.
We will look.
I will make some starter suggestions.
- Save the model numbers for future reference & searches.
Delta DPS350NB-1
Delta DPS-300PB1-A
Enermax EG365P or EG365AX -- Beware with Enermax. They used the same model number across different ATX specifications so two with the same model number can have completely different ratings. If you can't read the label in the ad then don't trust it's okay. They will also probably need recaped but they aren't hard to do.
I would avoid Antec. They will need caps and some are a pita to recap.

Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:

Let's say I take the route of inverting modern PSU instead of restoring retro PSU.

I'm taking your meaning as to use the DC-DC converter. ??
You are still probably shopping on eBay.
Do you have access to an O'scope to know if the ripple is okay?

Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:

Which one the 12V+ power should go? Should it be converted to 3.3V+ or 5V+? Or perhaps it doesn't matter?

Ideally use a 12v rail with nothing else on it. Probably end up being a PCIe connector.
To +5v.
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GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 144 of 382, by SPBHM

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PCBONEZ wrote:
Deltas are generally good solid reliable PSUs and a 300w Delta can probably support more actual load than a 350-400w no-name bra […]
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Deltas are generally good solid reliable PSUs and a 300w Delta can probably support more actual load than a 350-400w no-name brand.
Delta gives the continuous power (full time) whereas no-name brands give the peak power (short time) ratings.
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Random thoughts/comments.
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That you game adds less than 10w over the desktop tells me it's not particularly stressful to that system.

P-II 400 is 24.3w before considering VRM efficiency.
Using 75% efficiency it would be about 32w (at 100% utilization) at the PSU.

Vintage correct PSUs had AC-to-DC efficiencies like 65-75% - Using 75% again for simplicity
90w at the wall would be about 67w on the DC side.

Thus far I haven't found out anything useful about the Radeon 9500 PRO or even about a card with the same chip.
With an aux connector it's max is probably over 50w and I did see a 'low confidence' guess of 75w.
A 15w drop to the 30w (max) Voodoo suggests it's not using over 45w, but that might be the application isn't stressing it.

(This is WAY ball-parking it:)
If we say the PSU is stressed to under 70% (~22w) and the card is actually using the full 45w (not likely, based on Voodoo maxed +15w) then 85-90w at the wall is reasonable.
The CPU and card are probably using a little less and the other loads are making up the difference.
.

yes I didn't know about this brand before, I'm considering it because of this thread,

the little power variation from idle to load is the case specially with the CPU
with the Voodoo 4 4500 PCI I get 66/67W on the desktop (with near 0% CPU load according to process explorer)
running aida64 CPU queen test the power only goes as high as 68W, running stress CPU/FPU/cache/memory I get the same 68W

the game I mentioned earlier (for 85W with the 9500PRO and around 15W less with the v4, so around 70W) was Need For Speed 3 at 800x600 max settings d3d

and what I used to load the 9500PRO, trying to avoid CPU bottleneck was that DX9 demo called "real time HDR" which gave me similar power draw, but now with the Voodoo 4 4500 running the glide "donut demo" at 170FPS I can see a 73/74W power draw,

PII 400 is to slow for these cards so yes... for games testing I can be limiting power draw with the CPU limiting frame rate.

I also turned on the PC without the video card and it stabilizes around 52W for a while before shutting down.

TELVM wrote:

Assuming 75% PSU efficiency that's ~70W DC total system draw from all rails at full steam.

If your Kill-a-Watt has fast enough refresh rate you may see ~100W AC from the wall (~80W DC) while booting up, due to HDD & CD/DVD drawing extra power when their motors start rotating (this extra peak is drawn from +12V).

My single PIII 440BX system draws about the same (81W AC idling, 93W AC burning).

I didn't really pay close attention to the boot process with the 9500PRO, but with the Voodoo I can't see a lot of variation, it's mostly 67-68W, just opening and closing the CD drive without anything in it gives me a load of over 3W (up to 70/71 for a few moments from the regular 66/67 on win desktop), stopped at the bios it uses 65W,

Reply 145 of 382, by alexanrs

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I'll just drop a quick PSU recapping question here since I don't believe it is worth creating a new thread for it.

Today I decided to clean one of my old PSUs that has a bulging cap. Since I never recapped a PSU before I decided this could be a fine opportunity to practice, so I drew the "cap map" and replaced the bulging cap (Fuhjyyu TNR 470uF 16V) with one I got out of a busted gutless wonder I keep around just for parts/cables, a Zhifa 470uF 16V wit "LOW" written on it. I don't plan on keeping it there - I just wanted to practice and the original was busted anyway - this one at least has a chance of being alright - as I'll recap it eventually. The thing is, while doing that I noticed that the PSU I was messing around with had Fuhjyyu MK 330uF 200V caps on the primary, but they were rated for 85°C, whereas the shitty gutless wonder has ChengX caps rated for 105°C (same uF and V). Should I exchange them as well or just leave it as is?

Reply 146 of 382, by gdjacobs

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alexanrs wrote:

The thing is, while doing that I noticed that the PSU I was messing around with had Fuhjyyu MK 330uF 200V caps on the primary, but they were rated for 85°C, whereas the shitty gutless wonder has ChengX caps rated for 105°C (same uF and V). Should I exchange them as well or just leave it as is?

Both are what I would consider 3rd tier (Teapo and such are 2nd tier), so I wouldn't trust them very far. However, caps with a higher temperature spec will be more resilient to heat stress. All else being equal, they will last longer.

To generalize, caps are designed to withstand voltage and heat. Temp rating, max ripple, Res, DC current, etc all factor in to a caps heating and heat resilience.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 147 of 382, by 386SX

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I opened mine psu today and seeing that even if a classic unknown brand it's quiet old style (400w but heavier and with more components than other 550w I have). Nothing comparable to the high end ones seen in the link above but there're big transistor on the heasinks and quiet big primary capacitors. I have seen a filter capacitor a bit bad on the top so I will have to recap it. Values are still good anyway and it's not broken.

Reply 148 of 382, by PCBONEZ

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SPBHM wrote:
yes I didn't know about this brand before, I'm considering it because of this thread, […]
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yes I didn't know about this brand before, I'm considering it because of this thread,

the little power variation from idle to load is the case specially with the CPU
with the Voodoo 4 4500 PCI I get 66/67W on the desktop (with near 0% CPU load according to process explorer)
running aida64 CPU queen test the power only goes as high as 68W, running stress CPU/FPU/cache/memory I get the same 68W

the game I mentioned earlier (for 85W with the 9500PRO and around 15W less with the v4, so around 70W) was Need For Speed 3 at 800x600 max settings d3d

and what I used to load the 9500PRO, trying to avoid CPU bottleneck was that DX9 demo called "real time HDR" which gave me similar power draw, but now with the Voodoo 4 4500 running the glide "donut demo" at 170FPS I can see a 73/74W power draw,

PII 400 is to slow for these cards so yes... for games testing I can be limiting power draw with the CPU limiting frame rate.

This didn't occur to me until later when I was off doing something else.
Intel didn't implement power saving features in desktop CPUs until late in the P4 line.
That means you CPU will be pulling about the same amount of power at idle as it does in use.
Thus, given the same everything else you can attribute all the changes to the just video card.
Yup - I just screwed up a bunch of the earlier math.

SPBHM wrote:

I also turned on the PC without the video card and it stabilizes around 52W for a while before shutting down.

Interesting idea.
Okay so: P-II 400 is 24.3w before (75%) VRM efficiency so about 32w at the PSU DC side.
32w after a 75% PSU efficiency = about 43w at the wall.
That leaves 9w at the wall. - After efficiency about 6-7w on DC for the chipset and RAM and all that at idle.
~~ Sounds about right.
.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 149 of 382, by nforce4max

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Kreshna Aryaguna Nurzaman wrote:
Sorry I haven't been following, I've been down with sore throat again, but lots of interesting discussion. So it turned out PII […]
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TELVM wrote:
Assuming 75% PSU efficiency that's ~70W DC total system draw from all rails at full steam. […]
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SPBHM wrote:

... my PII 400/440bx/9500PRO ... ... while gaming is 85W total, doing some burn tests I might be able to get 90W at the wall, sitting on the desktop doing nothing already eats 81W ...

Assuming 75% PSU efficiency that's ~70W DC total system draw from all rails at full steam.

If your Kill-a-Watt has fast enough refresh rate you may see ~100W AC from the wall (~80W DC) while booting up, due to HDD & CD/DVD drawing extra power when their motors start rotating (this extra peak is drawn from +12V).

My single PIII 440BX system draws about the same (81W AC idling, 93W AC burning).

Sorry I haven't been following, I've been down with sore throat again, but lots of interesting discussion. So it turned out PII 400 and Radeon 9500 PRO only consumes about 70W DC. I found out on this page that a Voodoo5 5500 alone consumes about 70W. So yes, I guess it's kinda risky to have only 150W (3.3V+5.5V combined power).

PCBONEZ wrote:
It's not just the +5v that causes the problem. 3.3v+5v combined watts on modern PSUs is hard to find at 150 watts or more. BX vi […]
Show full quote

It's not just the +5v that causes the problem.
3.3v+5v combined watts on modern PSUs is hard to find at 150 watts or more.
BX vintage correct PSUs often had 3.3v+5v combined watts limits in the 185w-230w range and there was a real reason for that.

The other reason you have to overkill the crap out of watts using modern PSUs is the get a high enough 3.3v+5v watts rating.
One with less than 150 watts (3.3v+5v) probably isn't going to cut it for a BX based gaming system with 6 add-in cards.
With the parts selection I would call this one a BX based EXTREME gaming system and even 150 watts (3.3v+5v) is iffy IMHO.
.

So I guess if I were to use modern PSU, I have to use 1200W PSU --something like Corsair AX1200i (1200W), which has 180W on its 3.3V+ and 5V+ combined rails. But if it's working for my 440BX system, then it should also work on an 845PE system which has both GeForce 6800GT AGP and Voodoo5 5500 PCI. The 180W from 3.3V+ and 5V+ should be enough to provide necessary juice for the Voodoo5 PCI and other peripherals, while the 1000W from the 12V+ rail should be enough for the GeForce and the Pentium 4 processor.

Oh, but okay, one problem at a time.

So, anyway, I'm not experienced in finding retro PSU on ebay. Let's say I take the route of inverting modern PSU instead of restoring retro PSU. Which one the 12V+ power should go? Should it be converted to 3.3V+ or 5V+? Or perhaps it doesn't matter?

70w for a 5500 doesn't sound right, if that were the case the cooling for the card would be a lot more robust than what had shipped. I believe the average peak load is going to be closer to 40w give or take for the whole card.

On a far away planet reading your posts in the year 10,191.

Reply 150 of 382, by PCBONEZ

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alexanrs wrote:

I'll just drop a quick PSU recapping question here since I don't believe it is worth creating a new thread for it.

Today I decided to clean one of my old PSUs that has a bulging cap. Since I never recapped a PSU before I decided this could be a fine opportunity to practice, so I drew the "cap map" and replaced the bulging cap (Fuhjyyu TNR 470uF 16V) with one I got out of a busted gutless wonder I keep around just for parts/cables, a Zhifa 470uF 16V wit "LOW" written on it. I don't plan on keeping it there - I just wanted to practice and the original was busted anyway - this one at least has a chance of being alright - as I'll recap it eventually. The thing is, while doing that I noticed that the PSU I was messing around with had Fuhjyyu MK 330uF 200V caps on the primary, but they were rated for 85°C, whereas the shitty gutless wonder has ChengX caps rated for 105°C (same uF and V). Should I exchange them as well or just leave it as is?

BRAVO!! - You remembered the Cap Map!
.
Many PSUs use 85°C primaries so i wouldn't be -that- worried about it.
The 105° would -probably- last longer but that's assuming typical Endurance ratings and similar starting Life Spans.
Muliti piece explanation to follow.

People mistake Endurance (aka Load Life) as Life Spam - but that's not what it is.
A cap rated for 1000Hrs @85°C means it can handle max-voltage(+)max-ripple(+)85°C for 1000 hours without anything going out of spec.
In other words it how long you can abuse it and cause no lasting damage.

There are equations to get from Load Life (Endurance) to Life Span but they are given as +/-40% accurate and IMHO are a waste of time.
Lets say the actual Life Span is 15 years. The equations might tell you anything from 9 to 21 years, we'll say it said 20 years.
So the equations told you the Life Span is 20 years - and you can't know if that's the high, low, or middle of the +/-40% range.
Useless IMHO. - And this is why caps companies don't give numbers for Life Span in datasheets.

Capacitor companies do say that lowering the temp 10°C will double a capacitors Life Span.
That works for Endurance as well because the °C is in the same place both equations.
(If you change temp the changes to Endurance and Life Span are proportional to each other.)
Thus if you lower the temp 10°C you will double the Endurance also.

Now, back to your caps:
We will say the 105°C cap has an Endurance of 1000 Hrs
@105°C = 1000hr
@95°C = 2000hr
@85°C = 4000hr
If your 85°C cap is rated for more than 4000hrs it might last longer.
("might" because we don't actually know the Life Span of either one. We are assuming they are similar.)

I did all that to teach the concept.
In the real world crap brand primary caps are usually rated for 1000-2000 hours regardless of temp rating.

[And now finally the answer!] - The odds are the 105°C will last longer.

[EDIT]
The Fuhjyyu MK is 2000Hrs and 700 mA Ripple@120Hz

What series is the ChengX ??
.

Last edited by PCBONEZ on 2016-02-11, 18:04. Edited 2 times in total.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 151 of 382, by PCBONEZ

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nforce4max wrote:

70w for a 5500 doesn't sound right, if that were the case the cooling for the card would be a lot more robust than what had shipped. I believe the average peak load is going to be closer to 40w give or take for the whole card.

Agreed. Nice catch.
Been flipping back and forth between 4500, 5500 and 6000 so much I didn't notice.
.
The Voodoo 5500 has two 15w GPUs + other supporting components so 30-40w sounds reasonable.
.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 152 of 382, by alexanrs

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Thanks for the input guys!

PCBONEZ wrote:

[EDIT]
The Fuhjyyu MK is 2000Hrs and 700 mA Ripple@120Hz

What series is the ChengX ??

This is what is putting me off of those ChengX. All that is written on them is:
"ChengX"
"330uF200V"
"-40+105°Co"
Unlike Fuhjyyu it seems they don't even bother having easily recognizeable series names =/ Anyway I've unsoldered them already, but not gonna replace the Fuhjyyus today, as I've already closed that PSU. I'll need to open it again, as there is a cap I could not, for the life of me, read anything written on it as it was surounded by other components, so I'll have to desolder it, read it and then solder it back.

Reply 153 of 382, by PCBONEZ

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alexanrs wrote:
Thanks for the input guys! […]
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Thanks for the input guys!

PCBONEZ wrote:

[EDIT]
The Fuhjyyu MK is 2000Hrs and 700 mA Ripple@120Hz

What series is the ChengX ??

This is what is putting me off of those ChengX. All that is written on them is:
"ChengX"
"330uF200V"
"-40+105°Co"
Unlike Fuhjyyu it seems they don't even bother having easily recognizeable series names =/ Anyway I've unsoldered them already, but not gonna replace the Fuhjyyus today, as I've already closed that PSU. I'll need to open it again, as there is a cap I could not, for the life of me, read anything written on it as it was surounded by other components, so I'll have to desolder it, read it and then solder it back.

There are 3 different ChengX series that have a 330uF 200v @105C , Ranges: 2000-5000 Hrs, Ripple 1200-1300 mA.
So all of them are better than that Fuhjyyu MK. A lot better actually.
.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 154 of 382, by alexanrs

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Thanks! I'll replace them probably tomorrow 😀

Reply 155 of 382, by PCBONEZ

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alexanrs wrote:

I'll need to open it again, as there is a cap I could not, for the life of me, read anything written on it as it was surounded by other components, so I'll have to desolder it, read it and then solder it back.

Those are fun......

I have several dental mirrors and some 3x granny glasses for that.
And several types of LED flashlights including some goose-necks.

If I can't get those mirrors in I will polish a knife blade (gritty toothpaste works) and use that for a mirror.

I also keep acid brushes handy to knock any dust off the caps so they can be read.
.

GRUMPY OLD FART - On Hiatus, sort'a
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.

Reply 156 of 382, by TELVM

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SPBHM wrote:

... I get 66/67W on the desktop (with near 0% CPU load according to process explorer)
running aida64 CPU queen test the power only goes as high as 68W, running stress CPU/FPU/cache/memory I get the same 68W ...

Unlike more modern CPUs, PII/PIII processors always run @ full frequency and full voltage (they don't underclock and undervolt automatically while idling), so stressing the CPU alone adds little to total system draw.

alexanrs wrote:

... replaced the bulging cap (Fuhjyyu TNR 470uF 16V) with one I got out of a busted gutless wonder I keep around just for parts/cables, a Zhifa 470uF 16V wit "LOW" written on it. I don't plan on keeping it there - I just wanted to practice and the original was busted anyway ...

Well thought and well done respect-048.gif . Sounds like it's the -12V cap, dark blue wire close-by?

Take some pics and show us your creation. 😀

alexanrs wrote:

... Fuhjyyu MK 330uF 200V caps on the primary, but they were rated for 85°C, whereas the shitty gutless wonder has ChengX caps rated for 105°C (same uF and V). Should I exchange them as well or just leave it as is? ...

Both Fuhjyyu and ChengX are shoot-on-sight fecal matter, but the latter are probably younger in age, so go ahead and get some practice.

For the primary bulk caps (the big ones) temp rating isn't as critical as with the secondary output filtering caps. I'd choose a 85ºC Chemicon/Panasonic over a 105ºC Fuhjyyu/ChengX anytime.

Let the air flow!

Reply 157 of 382, by gdjacobs

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PCBONEZ wrote:
BRAVO!! - You remembered the Cap Map! . Many PSUs use 85°C primaries so i wouldn't be -that- worried about it. The 105° would -p […]
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BRAVO!! - You remembered the Cap Map!
.
Many PSUs use 85°C primaries so i wouldn't be -that- worried about it.
The 105° would -probably- last longer but that's assuming typical Endurance ratings and similar starting Life Spans.
Muliti piece explanation to follow.

People mistake Endurance (aka Load Life) as Life Spam - but that's not what it is.
A cap rated for 1000Hrs @85°C means it can handle max-voltage(+)max-ripple(+)85°C for 1000 hours without anything going out of spec.
In other words it how long you can abuse it and cause no lasting damage.

There are equations to get from Load Life (Endurance) to Life Span but they are given as +/-40% accurate and IMHO are a waste of time.
Lets say the actual Life Span is 15 years. The equations might tell you anything from 9 to 21 years, we'll say it said 20 years.
So the equations told you the Life Span is 20 years - and you can't know if that's the high, low, or middle of the +/-40% range.
Useless IMHO. - And this is why caps companies don't give numbers for Life Span in datasheets.

The equations are going to be a crystal ball guess because the actual application conditions over the component's lifespan will be highly variable and therefore difficult to anticipate.

PCBONEZ wrote:
Capacitor companies do say that lowering the temp 10°C will double a capacitors Life Span. That works for Endurance as well beca […]
Show full quote

Capacitor companies do say that lowering the temp 10°C will double a capacitors Life Span.
That works for Endurance as well because the °C is in the same place both equations.
(If you change temp the changes to Endurance and Life Span are proportional to each other.)
Thus if you lower the temp 10°C you will double the Endurance also.

Interestingly, it's the same rule of thumb for magnetics.

PCBONEZ wrote:
Now, back to your caps: We will say the 105°C cap has an Endurance of 1000 Hrs @105°C = 1000hr @95°C = 2000hr @85°C = 4000hr I […]
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Now, back to your caps:
We will say the 105°C cap has an Endurance of 1000 Hrs
@105°C = 1000hr
@95°C = 2000hr
@85°C = 4000hr
If your 85°C cap is rated for more than 4000hrs it might last longer.
("might" because we don't actually know the Life Span of either one. We are assuming they are similar.)

I did all that to teach the concept.
In the real world crap brand primary caps are usually rated for 1000-2000 hours regardless of temp rating.
[And now finally the answer!] - The odds are the 105°C will last longer.

[EDIT]
The Fuhjyyu MK is 2000Hrs and 700 mA Ripple@120Hz

What series is the ChengX ??
.

I apologize in advance, I really like to create hypothetical examples which are completely unrealistic. If that's leading too far away from the real world, please yank me back into line.

I like the information you've included in this posting. Just to expand on what you've said, I'll tie it back to what I mentioned earlier.

The two primary enemies of electrical components in application are over voltage and overheating. Obviously, the ambient temperature spec for a capacitor will affect how resilient it is to heating. Using Bonez' example, if you put the Fuhjyyu cap in a box heated to 85 degrees C and hit it with the specified ripple current, enough heat will transfer out of the casing for the cap to maintain an interior temperature such that it survives 2000 hrs. In application, the box won't be always at 85 degrees, and the ripple current won't be the same either, but you can extract a general idea of how tough the component is (as long as nobody lied about the specs).

A cap with the same endurance and ripple spec designed for 105 degree ambient will be of a geometry and construction that allows it to withstand higher interior temperature, be more effective at exhausting heat, or both. A cap with the same endurance and ambient temperature spec but less ripple current will experience less ohmic heating of the component interior under testing -- geometry and construction will be for less demanding conditions.

There is a maximum lifetime for capacitors as well. Eventually, exposure to Earths nasty atmosphere will destroy most plastics and rubbers, so these rules don't apply indefinitely.

For more information, see this nice document from Chemi Con.
http://www.mouser.com/pdfDocs/UCC_Electrolyti … hnicalNotes.pdf

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 158 of 382, by 386SX

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Even if it's not the old retro psu we'd need for these machines, for older (SS7) or future build I bought a Corsair VS650 psu. It has this specs: 3,3v-20A 5v-20A 12V-50A -12v-0.3A +5vsb-2.5A. I know it's a entry level one but I thought this would be better than others. I don't think I would have power problems on a SS7 machine but what about an Athlon 1000 on KT133?
Also not having the -5V can I use a Soundblaster AWE64 and a NE2000 ISA network card?

Reply 159 of 382, by TELVM

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gdjacobs wrote:

Nice indeed! respect-048.gif

386SX wrote:

... I bought a Corsair VS650 psu ...

The platform is CWT GPM, cheap but passable. The caps are a poor mix of Aishi, Crapxon, and (take cover) Jun Fu.

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Corsair_PSU_vs_n.d_-67-.JPG

Let the air flow!