So, I got my $120 (shipped) Quantum 3D Graphite system in the mail yesterday and its actually smaller than I thought it'd be. Its very clean inside and out, though there are a lot of scratches on the casing and no side\top panel (which is probably common).
To my surprise, the system turned on immediately... despite the listing saying that it didn't work. The fans are pretty noisy, but it booted just fine to Windows 2000 (with a Midway desktop and no start menu, task bar or anything clickable) and attempted to communicate with the rest of the arcade machine it came from but stopped when it doesn't find anything. Task manager has the "new task" feature disabled under this account too. By booting into safe mode with command prompt and running "explorer" I was able to get an explorer window, then I accessed the administrative tools through the Start Menu shortcuts folder, added a second user account and rebooted. Thankfully that second user account actually allowed me to run a new task through task manager, so then I could browse the system freely outside of Safe Mode. I found all of the original files for Arctic Thunder, and was actually able to run the game just like a normal application.
The attachment Quantum3D Graphite 2016-04-06 005 (1440x1920).jpg is no longer available
More pictures here:
https://goo.gl/photos/5XCuPjTB8jkiKHzf8
You'll notice I cracked the PSU open to look it over pretty early on, just to be sure it didn't have any visibly failing caps or other problems. It'd be sad to kill the system by running it on a bad PSU. The fan also needed oiled, which made it buttery smooth...
What's really interesting is that the system's event viewer shows just how long this baby has been operational. The earliest dates were from 2000 (actually 1999, but that's when the BIOS clock resets too, and the manufacture dates look to be 2000) and there are dates every so often all the way up until June of 2015. That's 15 years in service! There a few other cool things on the hard drive too. A saved network location that was created in 2000 that says "arctic" and has someone's last name on it... apparently the person at Midway that set up and transferred the game data originally. There are still records of scores, as well as the reinstallation files and batch files to reinstall the game if it ever stops working. The board has a genuine Midway branded BIOS, and all of the components seem to be original... even the small PCB that connects power to external devices (powered by the system's ATX PSU) has Midway silkscreening on it. This thing really is a time capsule of gaming history, crammed inside an arcade machine and kept there for safekeeping until it was no longer economical to keep it all running.
I'll likely remove the hard drive and keep it in a safe place and use the system as a Win9x gaming system... possibly with my Voodoo 5 5500 AGP installed rather than the 3000.
I never thought I'd own any Quantum3D hardware back in the 90s when it was insanely expensive, but in the past month I've managed to come across a bunch of it.
My small lot of old arcade parts also arrived yesterday, including 2 Quantum 3D Obsidian2 10MB PCI arcade cards (with only a VGA out... no SLI, passthrough or slot cover), a main board from what I'm told was a Gauntlet Legends system (it came with the green Obsidian2), and an STB-made Voodoo 3 2000 PCI with an Atari sticker on it and no slot cover. These are all pictured in the gallery linked above. My old Voodoo 3 2000 PCI that my brother purchased in ~1999 is shown for comparison as well.
... one other interesting thing I just remembered about the Graphite is that its ATX power connector (there's a picture of it in the gallery) has the green and black wires in the same hole so that the system automatically powers on when plugged in. Is there likely to be an easy way to work around this? I'd prefer that it just stayed off until I wanted it on, even if I have to do a keyboard shortcut or attach a button to get it to power on (the case has no power button). I haven't yanked the pin out of the connector because I'm assuming that there is only one pin for both wires, which will do me no good. I do have a tool to pop the wires out, but I don't want to mess with it if there's an easier way.