Logistics wrote:The best thing you can do to help prevent bad caps or at least extend their life is to use a great PSU. Everything in front of the PSU will be stressed more if the PSU can't deliver clean power. Get yourself a great quality brand such as Seasonic, FSP/Fortron, Sparkle, others as well, but you get the idea.
Since we are dealing with vintage hardware, even some of those high-end brands were affected by the plague, others are simple old and should be recapped for freshness sake. But the point is that their circuitry topology is superior to typicbrands such as Antec, Thermaltake, etc. Although, those brands do make more-than-adequate supplies when recapped with quality capacitors.
Agreed. And it is even better if you do also combine your psu with some kind of line filter or surge protector.
They are available in different size and shapes and are sometimes built into power outlets (multi-outlet power strips).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_filter
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surge_protector
In additions, an absolute must have is a Residual-current device.
It immedialy cuts power in case of a short-circuit (faster than a fuse does).
The better ones do also include an overcurrent protection circuitry.
Nowerdays, both circuits can usually be found in the fuse panel.
Except maybe in countries with a moribund or archaic power supply system (US, maybe ?)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device
And if your'e a fan of old TV sets, an isolation transformer can be helpfu, as welll.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isolation_transformer
Sorry for the bad explanation. But these devices are worth considering, because they can safe lives.
At least the quality ones. It doesn't help to buy a cheap power outlet with a filter,
if the power outlet itself causes a fire.
Oh and there's another important thing to keep in mind.
Older devices were made for a lower voltage. Back in time, devices were designed to be used with 110v and 220v systems of that time.
Nowerdays, voltage increased to 140v and 250v. Old transformer based apparatuses can't handle this. They might break or catch fire.
Yeah, I know, it sounds absurd, but I've seen it myself. My father's record player passed away this way, for example.
If you worry about this, you may want to consider to use step-down converters. Btw, this issue is also present if you're trying
to use japanese 100v devices on the american 120v lighting mains.
http://www.japan-guide.com/forum/quereadisplay.html?2+13241
http://www.voltagetransformers.com/categories … pan-Converters/
http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/120v-to-1 … n-the-us.47124/
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